From The Documentary "Dior And I" To Talk About The Design And Making Of High-Grade Custom Dress

Speaking of

The fabric design and production will have to mention advanced customization and their workshops.

Advanced customization first refers to tailoring garments for the Royal and upper class customers. Later, the high fashion association was set up by France to set standards for advanced custom garments. The annual fashion week we saw was also initiated by the association.

If you want to become one of the qualifications to qualify for making a customized garment brand, "every style of clothing is very few and basically finished by hand". From this point, we can see the importance of "handwork".

Of which Chanel is available.

Workshop Montex, glove workshop Maison Causse, button workshop Desrues, badminton workshop, Lemari, shoe workshop Massaro, Hat Workshop Miason Michel, gold and silver decoration workshop Goossens, flower decoration workshop Guillet, embroidery, feather and flower decorations, as elements often appear in high dress dress materials, come from these workshops.

From the documentary "Dior and I" to talk about the design and making of high-grade custom dress,

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2012 autumn and winter

Take this series as an example, it is inspired by the painting of Raf Simon from his artist friend Sterling Ruby.

After confirming the printing, we need to solve the technological problems.

Raf wants to use a traditional process of Dior, printing is not directly printed on cloth, but printed on line, and then textile.

Raf told his ideas to the heads of fabric, and then they came to think of ways to achieve that idea.

However, the process is not all smooth sailing.

The person in charge of the fabric thinks that the color of Sterling Ruby is too much, and the warp printing will not be effective.

Final presentation

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Next, let's talk about some common elements of some dress fabrics.

Embroidery:

Embroidery, as an ancient traditional handicraft, has been used in clothing since its fabric. It has a history of two thousand or three thousand years in China.

Especially Valentino loves this element very much.

(Valentino2014 spring summer clothing)

(Valentino2014 autumn winter clothing)

(Valentino2013 autumn and winter)

(Valentino2015 autumn winter clothing)

(Armani2015 Chun Chun Gao Ding) {page_break}

Bead:

The traditional way of Gao Ding workshop is stitching embroidery.

Now, in order to save time, use a reverse Crochet to embroider beads on the fabric, as shown in the following figure.

(Elie Saab2014 spring summer high fix) {page_break}

Feather:

This is a set of Chanel2014 production process chart of a feathered dress in spring and summer. It can be seen from the picture that the feather is attached to the gauze on one piece, and it is very time-consuming to make it.

Handmade cloth flowers:

Also known as flower making or hot stamping, the process is very complicated.

First of all, the white cloth should be starched (the color flowers need to be colored after this step). After the cloth is dried, it will be cut off according to the shape of the petals before it, and then the curl will be rolled out with the blanching device. Finally, each piece will be pasted into flowers.

Sometimes a dress needs tens of hundreds of cloth flowers, which is quite a big project.

(Valentine2013, Chun Xia Gao Ding)

No matter which kind of craft requires skilled craftsmen and good skills and time, they are indispensable to show us the handicraft general clothes.

"True luxury needs good fabrics and artisans' intentions."

---Mr.Dior