How To Measure The Success Of The Designers Of Karl Lagerfeld And YSL?

For a long time, fashion designers have been swaying between fashion and commerce. Looking at the success or failure of a designer, is it necessary to judge whether his success is based on his sales figures in the business, or in the classics or aesthetic sense of the design works or in the creation of an era? Maybe this question has different answers for everyone. For example, Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent co-founder Pierre Berg Ying, they all make different comments on each other.

Pierre Berg e once said in an interview with Suzy Menkes: "I like Karl very much. I have known him for a long time. He is a very educated and intelligent person. But the biggest problem with Karl is that he has never succeeded in his own brand, and he has not achieved the same level of success under the name of Chanel, which is sad. Pierre Berg e once thought that Karl Lagerfeld was a mercenary man who had no pursuit of art.

In addition, as a co founder of Yves Saint Laurent and a longtime business partner of the late fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, he also has other comments on the Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati two designers who have served as brand designers. "I admit that Tom Ford has some talent, but it comes from marketing," he said. In fact, he reshape Gucci with brilliant and splendid fashion, which I admire. I will say "admiration" to you again. However, he could not succeed in Yves Saint Laurent. As you know, this is a failure. As for Pilati, it is best not to talk about him, because he has not made any contributions.

In response to this statement, Karl Lagerfeld, a lord of Buddha, responded in a recent interview with WWD. He said he had not seen Berg AI in private for 40 years, but he was still the same as before. Lagerfeld said: "he came from another era. Times are different. He must adapt himself to the times. He should not adapt himself to the times. If he has any opinion about Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati, he should shut up and retire. "

Lagerfeld heard about Pierre Berg e commenting that "the fashion house of his namesake is far less than the scale of Chanel, because it has never been the goal he pursued and can not achieve the Saint Laurent multi billion dollar level of fashion business". He said: "he should be modest." He pointed out that at present, the positioning of his personal brand is in the range of affordable luxury or boutique, which is exactly what I wanted at the beginning, not clothing or customization. I want to be different from Fendi and Chanel. "

At the same time, he also defended Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati. He thought Pilati did well in Ermenegildo Zegna and appreciated Pilati's work in the Saint Laurent era. As for Tom Ford, Lagerfeld pointed out that Berg and his company were "very unfriendly" to him at that time. He believes that it is difficult to achieve success when encountering "bad environment".

Designer Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati served as brand designers of Yves Saint Laurent in 1999-2004 and 2004-2012 years respectively. Tom Ford has successfully raised Gucci from a low level to a highly concerned luxury brand, but encountered the "dilemma" in its career as the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent brand.

Tom Ford, which has always been famous for its sexy style, redefines the Yves Saint Laurent style, leaving it from the outdated swamp, integrating into the sexy and business practices that he is good at in the fashion design of the brand, but it also puts him in a polarized comment. Mr. Yves Saint Laurent has made such an appraisal of him: "his style is too high and too commercial. His talent is not in fashion design, but in marketing skills. " In the end, Tom Ford also left the company with great dissatisfaction.

As for the work of designer Stefano Pilati, Mr. Yves Saint Laurent once said: "although the whole is not satisfactory, most of them are quite good." Perhaps because of these works, during his creative director, Yves Saint Laurent's performance did not achieve the desired results. Stefano Pilati left office after publishing the autumn and winter series in 2012.

Indeed, in today's digital age, brand sales have become one of the most important criteria to measure whether a designer is successful or not, and today's fashion designers no longer focus on artistic creation rather than sales figures.

Like Burberry creative director Christopher Bailey, as a designer, she is also a brand CEO, taking into account the development and expansion of the brand in the global market. Alexander Wang, who once served as the creative director of Balenciaga, has always believed that design and commerce are inextricably linked. He said, "in my opinion, fashion is clothes that wear. The key is to sell the product. " Perhaps this is the idea that in his two years in office, Balenciaga's revenue has shown double-digit growth.

It is undeniable that under the impact of new media and social networking, the topic, exposure and star effect of brand will affect the development of a brand. Just like old Buddha Karl Lagerfeld's view, times are different. Fashion designers need to look ahead and adjust the pace with the changes in the fashion industry.