Will Handmade Clothes Disappear?

How many people remember the "handmade cards" we used to pass in those years?

What about it?

Scissors, soft rulers, triangular chalk, needle thread flying at fingertips, sewing machine pedal at the foot of the flip......

For the tailor He Xianglan, who worked in the clothing factory after the establishment of the autonomous region, the memory of this life can not be separated from the age of busy tailoring and manual sewing up for sewing.

"For a long time in that era, almost all the clothes in the urban area were made in the four major garment factories in Urumqi. They were all made by hand."

He Xianglan, more than 70, recalls.

Until the late 90s of last century, more and more machines were produced and new styles became more and more popular.

Today, several large tailor shops in Urumqi have been pformed into other industries, while more tailors are self serving and are favored by high-end private tailors.

Manual tailoring is replaced by machine tailoring.

In September 16th, the Xinjiang Metropolis Daily reporter came to He Xianglan's home in Beijing Road, Urumqi.

In a bedroom, there is a sewing machine, a plank, and a box for storing cutting patterns.

The wardrobe and bed under the house were filled with various kinds of cloth and thread, zipper and other clothing materials.

"Do not belittle the twenty yellow cardboard cutting templates that have been yellowed. It was only 3 months after my own study and practice that I cut all the clothes by hand."

He Xianglan said.

He Xianglan told reporters that, in order to find a job, she went to an old clothes factory in Wu city.

"I remember that when I made my first coat, I had a big bag on the back of my clothes because I was unskillful. I felt funny when I was wearing it, and I couldn't help laughing."

He Xianglan said with a smile.

On the bookshelf in the bedroom, there is also a yellowed old style tailored book.

"I heard from my son a few days ago that many tailoring machines and equipment are particularly advanced, not only with electric sewing machines, but also large ironing machines, and even tailoring is done by computer programs, and my book will not be useful in the future."

He Xianglan said with some frustration.

Expensive cloth has long been "out of favor".

"When the leaders of the autonomous region go to Beijing to open the people's Congress, they will come to our factory to make cloth."

Wu Guifen, a colleague of He Xianglan, said with pride when he accepted the interview with reporters.

In the 70s and 80s of last century, if anyone could wear a set of cloth, how much "envy, jealousy, hate" would be attracted.

Wu Guifen said: "at that time, 30 yuan per metre of cloth was equivalent to an average person's salary for half a month.

Ordinary people can not afford to wear clothes, even if they can barely afford a cloth, they will only be able to wear them on holidays.

Wu Guifen recalled that in the past, people wore the clothing and consumption concept of "new 3 years, old 3 years, sewing and making up for 3 years", and clothes with patches were normal.

At that time, the cloth was of a single color, mostly blue, gray and black, and only a few of the ingredients were cotton and woolen fabrics.

"In the 80s and 90s of last century, polyester fabrics, nylon fabrics and other fabrics appeared. Everyone felt fresh and bought clothes.

But at that time, the cloth was still a good thing.

However, with the increase of fabric types and finished garments, expensive wool cloth was gradually abandoned by people because of its less color and old style.

Wu Guifen said.

Nowadays, all kinds of material fabrics have replaced the wool cloth with colorful colors and good texture.

The clothing consumption habits of urban residents are basically changed from "making clothes to wearing" to "buying clothes and wearing".

Handmade cheongsam and Tang costume return to wardrobe.

Hand cut

Manual handspike, manual embroidery...

In the summer of last summer, the women in the Urumqi City loved the whirlwind of cheongsam wearing hand-made sewing.

"Not long ago, I made a cheongsam for my colleague's daughter. She said that it was not fit to buy."

He Xianglan said that before the garment factory received orders for Tang costume and cheongsam, it only used for foreign trade export. In addition, it became a collection that liked Collector's bottom.

Now, as long as the pen is picked up, He Xianglan can still draw the pattern of "cloud flower" freely on paper.

She explained that Yun Hua is like a cloud pattern, and this pattern needs to be quickly fixed in the satin fixed position by sewing machine.

"It's simple, but it's very difficult. At that time, if we had nothing to do, we were painting the pattern of cloud flower, otherwise we couldn't get that effect on the sewing machine."

He Xianglan said.

"I remember when we had done a lot of Tang suits for a company in Hongkong, and slowly began to pick up some cotton padded clothes in Tang style style before wearing it. Afterwards, it was a jacket, and then some people wore Qipao, but they usually wore them when they were married."

He Xianglan said that nowadays, many women who love beauty also wear cheongsam in daily life, but now there are fewer and fewer tailors in cheongsam.

"Do one thing before.

It costs about 200 yuan, and there is no 1000 yuan now. Good cheongsam can not be bought.

But now people wear clothes more and more diversified. As long as everyone is beautiful, it is not only a manifestation of better life, but also a change of ideology.

He Xianglan said.