Li Lin Of Jiangnan Buyi Is Going To IPO In Hong Kong Next Year.

Li Lin got an investment from the fund company three years ago. She heard that it was because JNBY's clothing was sufficiently recognizable.

In the 1994 year of the year, Li Lin, who graduated from the Chemistry Department of Zhejiang University, founded the women's clothing brand "Jiangnan cloth dress" in Hangzhou.

7 years later, "Jiangnan Buyi" became the first letter JNBY of four words.

Now, the women's clothing brand has about 600 stores and nearly 1 million members nationwide.

Fund companies want to know how many people know this brand.

They went to a shopping mall and bought dozens of clothes from several women's clothing stores on the same floor. At the same time, they found a group of customers in the mall, asking customers to match their clothes and brands without seeing the trade marks.

Almost no one in JNBY's clothes was mistaken.

"They are the ones who voted."

Li Lin said.

In early November, JNBY just opened a new store in Seattle.

But a week later, Li Lin was sitting in a resort hotel in Western Hangzhou, which seemed to have little interest in discussing the expansion of the new market.

She referred to the fund company's recognition of JNBY brand recognition.

Zheng Minjie, manager of Jiangnan cloth clothing brand, seems to know that this recognition is good or bad.

He said that such a fixed form of JNBY to a certain degree of characteristics, "also formed a limitation."

In particular, people may not be able to express this characteristic accurately.

You can find almost all kinds of evaluations about JNBY.

In fact, a user named "Mi Mi Hua Jun" gave an example of "JNBY" in Chinese commenting on the Chinese style, describing its plain, elegant and straight lines.

But at the same time, he said, "JNBY is like CELINE and RICK OWENS and Yamamoto Teruji."

Interestingly, these brands can also be synonymous with petty bourgeois, Gothic, female, or deconstruction.

JNBY is also popular in the Japanese market.

In the past, it also settled in the UK buying shop Selfridge and Paris's old Buddha.

Anyone can say a few words to JNBY.

If Li Lin changed her mind, she would say, "I think it's possible to talk about literature and art."

Canadian contemporary art magazine once made a visit in Beijing. Li Lin liked art. She ran to Beijing to be a recording assistant. She found JNBY customers in many artists' studios and galleries.

It's a little far away from most people.

Minority.

Zheng Minjie said that this problem did exist before its competitor ZUCZUG, Mo&Co, JNBY and 2013 years ago.

The "men's clothing brand" under the group is more like that.

Maybe ten meters away, consumers will judge, "decoration of such a shop should not be my dish".

Around 2012, Zheng Minjie's brand Department adjusted the "sketch" store image to make it seem more approachable.

"But on the other hand, we don't want to create an impression that everyone thinks of OK."

Zheng Minjie said.

With Li Lin, other brands like JNBY and group can hardly become a popular brand.

This is both good and bad.

)

The clothes made by them are of distinctive style and low price.

Although the company has always emphasized that they pursue the principle of "good things are not expensive", but because Li Lin is doing the same thing as designer brand Uma Wang, increasing the investment in fabrics, the price of clothes is still rising slowly.

Uma Wang is the designer's brand that Li Lin openly appreciates. She said, "what I do with Uma is very enviable. It is very good and very personal."

Li Lin can't be so personal, but she has to make sure that the brand is moving forward.

Zheng Minjie remembered that some dealers had hoped to add a single seller's old list, and the list was stuck in Li Lin.

She prefers to put them on the pole when her crotch pants are not yet popular.

In the two or three years after 2011, JNBY almost stopped shop expansion.

Li Lin said that she did not intend to expand the store in the three tier cities (except Zhejiang province), but in such a first-line market in Beijing, there are enough 30 stores, and the best single store with annual sales can reach tens of millions.

Things are more complicated than that.

In 2011, domestic

Generally encountered trouble.

People's purchasing power has been affected by macroeconomic instability. The entry of foreign brands has also partitioned part of the market.

Zheng Minjie said JNBY needed time to catch breath and make adjustments.

It was not until this year that they speeded up the plan to restart their stores, mainly in the second tier cities such as Xi'an and Chongqing.

Before that, Li Lin led a brand pformation of JNBY.

In the 2001 year of the year, Li Lin made a pformation to the brand, changing the original female style lying on the wheat stack to the style of everyday wear in the city.

At that time, Li Lin had just finished his six years of solo struggle, and completed all the works from material finding to clothing completion.

It was also in that year that the brand changed to an English name JNBY.

"Jiangnan Buyi" became a group name after that.

In this round of brand pformation, JNBY is becoming younger.

Although Li Lin did not emphasize this point, Zheng Minjie said that in the past, the product would rely heavily on the latter part of the target group of 25-35 years old. Now they are paying more attention to the 25-30 year old customer.

For this reason, JNBY began to boldly use fabrics other than cotton and linen.

Li Lin said that after more young designers join the team, the design of 15% pieces of 600 pieces per quarter will be younger and daring.

"Sometimes I wish I didn't put my personal vision on the team.

I always feel that I am 45.

In theory, it is not our target audience. "

It doesn't seem like a joke.

When describing the success of the brand, Li Lin gave an example of the gallery.

She said that the success of Gao Gu's business shows that as long as the taste is strong enough, "capital will not destroy you".

But she obviously preferred those little galleries, and found them when the artists were young, until they grew into stars, and still worked together.

Zheng Minjie said that this greatly affected the style of Jiangnan cloth clothing brand.

They began to shift more activities to terminal stores and invite artists to participate.

In September this year, JNBY opened a concept store in Beijing's official residence, and artist Xu Qu made the overall design for the store. Finally, the store looked like a few tennis courts together.

Ullens also participated in the UCCA.

The 45 year old founder introduced capital funds to the company three years ago and began to study meticulous management, and plans to IPO in Hongkong next year.

But on the premise that she and the fund company have settled some basic issues, including the JNBY design style and the number of shops, do not be too market-oriented.

Store growth may depend more on children's clothing brand JNBY by JNBY in the future.

This is a good new market.

"This is a game."

Li Lin said that the reason why she introduced capital at this time was simply because she wanted to build an imaginative office building for the company. For this reason, she invited the designer Renzo Piano of Paris Pompidou Art Center (Renzo Piano), which needed money.

Li Lin visited Piano's work in dozens of studios around the world, even Piano was unthinkable. He said in an interview that he set up the first construction project in China.

In 2013, when the 2014 spring summer series was released in Toronto fashion week and Tokyo fashion week, JNBY has added "interest" in the "natural" brand description.

Li Lin became more interested in art when she started her brand. She spent a lot of money collecting lots of works of art and began to have more contacts with artists.

Jiangnan Buyi Art Center is sponsoring a young artist project called the imagination mechanics laboratory.

Over the past two years,

The most common platform for communication is VICE.

In 2013, VICE and JNBY jointly launched the photography project "tour". Young photographers from 10 countries photographed young people dressed in JNBY clothing, including drummers, stylists and fashion red men.

VICE is young enough to be interesting, but it is also small enough.

If you pay no attention, this will make JNBY lose more guests.

When he worked with VICE again in 2015, a staff member of the brand Department said he was a little worried.

New cooperation has been put into terminal stores.

VICE invited the "very interesting" young KOL to pform the shop window.

VICE said, this will "let you walk in the street suddenly (or be scared)".

No one knows if it will go against it.

But at least, they remembered what Li Lin said.

The founder of the "despotic" school instructed her staff to say, "if you do an activity, you should think it's interesting -- otherwise don't do it."