Business Has Kidnapped Fashion And Fashion Brands.
In spring, summer, autumn and winter, the four seasons have corresponding patterns in everyone's mind. Everyone has his own understanding of the four seasons.
Only one group of people is exceptional. They are fashion people.
At this particular moment, editors are eagerly waiting for the early autumn series that designers are selling from retail.
The early autumn series, like the holiday series (early spring series), eclipsed the traditional spring, summer and autumn winter series that were sold in March and September.
For most people, the birth of this series is difficult to understand. They have no conception of early autumn.
Early autumn? Shouldn't it be summer? Wrong! Indeed, although the early autumn series will usually be listed in stores in July, fur coat, lattice shirt, cashmere sweater and so on have only been put on shelves in recent weeks.
Why is this series in November called holiday series? In fact, it is because in 80s many people would fly to warm places to spend their winter holidays, and the brand launched holiday series to meet the needs of this category of consumers.
But you should have noticed that now it has completely changed into something else.
Besides, does anyone really need so many clothes?
The answer is no. But the fashion industry needs you to buy so many clothes.
In today's industrialization, especially in today's Internet age, people are fascinated by fresh things. In recent seasons, clothing designed for seasonal pition has created more news exposure opportunities for brands every year.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president of Bergdorf Goodman, a luxury luxury department store in New York, said: "nowadays consumers are becoming less frequent in shopping malls. They prefer to shop online or see different things in shopping malls."
But the early spring and early autumn series have changed.
They are no longer consumers waiting to buy spring, summer or fall winter series. In order to attract attention derivatives, retailers are actually putting their main funds on these two pitional products.
Fargo added: "you may put the budget of 70%-80% in the over series, because they sell longer than the traditional big show series."
Have all the problems been solved? No, this is due to the five month cycle of the fashion industry from the big show to the store shelves.
The early spring and early autumn series are indeed much simpler than the traditional fashion week series.
The time lag between design display and sales is also shorter, and it allows longer sales time before consumers get bored.
That being said, big names like Dior Chanel, Gucci and LV also hold a series of big early spring early autumn shows, and have launched many design works as well as traditional big show.
For example, Chanel launched nearly 100 models in the early autumn show of Rome this year, so the change of product production cycle mentioned before is likely to be realized.
Star efficiency and globalization are also factors contributing to the success of early spring.
The former is because the awards season often occurs after the early autumn series.
Compared to the spring and summer series released five months ago, celebrities would choose the new early autumn series to take the Oscar red carpet. The reason for the latter factor is that nowadays travel is becoming more and more convenient.
Those who travel around the world can't feel the changes of the seasons as they did 50 years ago.
Rejection of seasonal thinking has been around for some time. An early autumn or early spring series can cover swimsuits.
Overcoat
To cater for such an idea.
It is undeniable that early spring and early autumn series will bring commercial benefits.
But as demand increases, the public is becoming more and more obsessed with fashion. So the seasonal production has also brought negative effects to designers.
"No more stops, there is a dilemma in the field of design, which is exhausting and rough. I believe that one day in the future, fashion designers, designers and retailers will get together to discuss whether or not to reset the whole model."
After 50 years in the industry, KarlLagerfeld still lingers on Chanel, Fendi and its own brand, and designs more products than their peers every year, and has a deeper thinking on this issue.
In October of this year, he told WWD, "there has been no turning back. This is the way to survive.
For some people and some small companies, this can be regarded as too demanding, but for Chanel, Dior, LV such a big card, we must work together to face such a speed.
What I hate most is those designers who lead a high salary but complain that they are too demanding and tired.
This is a full-time job, not another job. The fashion industry is now like a sport. You have to run.
"
Taking into account some of the current vibration in the industry, resetting the whole
Pattern
Sooner rather than later.
Take RafSimons, for example, in October this year, after three and a half years in charge of Dior, he gave up the position of creative director.
The reason for leaving is ambiguous, but he was disgusted with the uninterrupted fashion cycle when he was interviewed by System magazine editor Cathy Horyn on the eve of his resignation.
Simons designs six series, including the high definition series, for Dior every year. He said: "everything must be done in three weeks and the maximum period is only five weeks.
There is not enough time in the whole process. "
Similarly, AlberElbaz left the Lanvin in October this year, after fourteen years at the helm of Lanvin.
He also protested more than once about fashion cycles.
The last time he received the award-winning speech after the "star of the international fashion group" award, he said, "we
Designer
It's all based on intuition and dreams. We start thinking about what women want to wear. What do women really need? What can we do for women to make their lives easier? How can we make women more beautiful? That's what we did.
"We have to say that today's production cycle has created many disappointing products.
Has anyone seen the winter sale display stand in the store? This is a disaster!
After much praise from the works published by Beckett Fogg and PiotrekPanszczyk in 2013, they decided to publish their first early autumn series, and said: "there are so many things in this world, but we personally do not see how frustrating they are.
We enjoy the work very much. From the commercial point of view, the early autumn series is undoubtedly a two exposure opportunity. Our only concern is that the last clothes may be too rich, but this is the evolution of the fashion industry. We have to play like this.
"
Is it really necessary to play this? Maybe this is a question that the fashion industry needs to answer accurately.
If those veteran brand designers who can lead the whole team work hard, the only thing that can be imagined is that all the pressure is on the rising stars, whether they are really talented or not.
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