Nike: Fashion Is Moving Towards More Significant Movement.

Oregon

In the park, six acres of Nike lake, beach volleyball court and two main gyms and hairdressing salons are the the Nike Sport Research Lab.

The sign at the entrance reads, "you are now entering Nike's innovation space. Please abide by our rules: prohibit photographing, prohibit the use of social media, all visitors must be escorted, suspicious activities must be reported."

When you pick up your cell phone and go through the electronic door, you will find yourself in a long corridor.

The corridor was made of sponge material from the runway with a stripe in the middle.

"It's our runway (runway)."

Barry Spiering, director of applied clothing research at Nike and Barry Spiering, a military research scientist in the army, said during his visit.

He is telling the truth. It used to be a runway. Nike used it to test the relationship between athletes' performance and their clothing, but he did not understand the other meaning of the word "runway" (T).

Athletes gathered in a campaign held in New York this week in Nike.

Although the event was mainly designed to release the costumes designed by the US delegation for this summer's Olympic Games, it also released the company's first automatic lacing sports shoes HyperAdapt 1.0 and Air Vapor Max Flyknit running shoes (the combination of fly line technology and Air sole air cushion, and no bubbles or rubber) and other new products, but sports and running shoes culture is only one aspect of the whole 1.0 story.

After all, once the contract of the US Olympic team has been held, let alone the contract of NBA, dozens of top tennis stars and various football teams, the company will have to go elsewhere to find new growth points.

Nike's grand conference was held at the Moynihan Station at the official site of New York fashion week, and it was not a coincidence that the design of Bureau Betak, which was designed by Christine Dio (Christian Dior), Robert Caavalli (Roberto Cavalli) and Mike Coles (Michael Kors), and so on.

Nike came to you.

Since 2014, the company has been courting to the fashion industry in a calm and orderly manner, but fashion has also returned to nature, and has fallen into some kind of collective obsession.

Model Carly Klaus (Karlie Kloss) is a promotion of women's clothing in Nike. When Nike hosted a fashion show in New York, athletes such as Claus and Joan Smos (Joan Smalls), Li Na and women marathon Paula Radek Radcliffe (Leif) were all on the same show.

Fashion editors in Europe and Asia fly to the front row of the show, many of them dressed in Nike.

Last summer, Nike opened an invitation system training facility in Glen street, lower Manhattan.

Bright magazine people practice yoga and fitness together with people of various models and other fashion circles.

A few seasons ago, the company also launched a golden key service for fashion week, allowing fashion editors to stay in London, Milan and Paris.

Enthusiastic participants include Cindy Leif, editor of Glamour magazine, Stefano Tonchi (Stefano Tonchi) of W magazine, Michael Karl (Michael Carl), Michael Karl (Michael Carl), fashion marketing director of Vanity Fair (Vanity Fair) magazine, and editor Ariel Foxman of Cindi (In).

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"There is no sense of exchange," said Lai, "never greedy."

It is more of an experience that Nike has cleverly provided to the fashion circle, just like Nike's Nike Training Club open to the wider world, Nike Run Club, and free hand-held App to members' customized training programs.

However, he admitted.

A result of participating in the Nike project was that when she took part in the Paris half marathon during the fashion week, she was more likely to release her own photos from Nike on Instagram.

During fashion week, she has run two Paris half marathons and participated in other activities.

Although she said she did not regard Nike as a fashion brand, she admits that a big fashion editor is wearing Nike, apparently endorsing it, or sending a strong signal to her 17700 fans.

Tonge and Carle both admit that they are now wearing more Nike than ever before.

The effect of all this is very simple: Although Nike may not have flaunted itself as a fashion brand, the traditional brands in the fashion field may not see it as a competitor, but it seems to be more and more similar to consumers who are considering which clothes to buy.

Over the years, sportswear and sportswear have been developing on two parallel runways, but recently the boundaries between them have begun to merge and the runway is moving closer together.

When the two converge, the subversive results may be comparable to the explosive growth of fast fashion ten years ago.

Last year, Messi department store conducted a survey to understand the brand with the highest exposure on Instagram.

Nike ranked first, noting that there are 47747991 labels.

This figure is nearly 2.5 times that of its rival Prada, almost six times that of Michael Coles (almost six times of that of COX).

Nike's fans reached 18715326, four times that of Prada and 3.5 times that of Kors.

In the 2015 BrandZ brand research global brand top 100 released by Millward Brown, Nike ranked twenty-eighth, the most valuable clothing brand, leading four positions in LV and leading 14 positions in Zara brand.

Almost at the same time, Goldman Sachs and youth fashion magazine Teen Vogue jointly surveyed millennial generation between 13 and 29 years old, the most coveted consumer group in fashion, hoping to establish their love list.

As a result, Nike ranked second in the fashion trend girls' favorite brand 50, behind beauty makeup brand MAC, ahead of Mark Jakob (Marc Jacobs, eighteenth place) and Kate SBY (Kate Spade, twenty-first).

"The gap between fashion and Sport continues to shrink for third consecutive years," the authors of the survey wrote.

Marshall Cohen Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD group, a consultancy, believes that this is a trend to change the whole game. "Marshal"

The driving factors behind it include the strict rules of occupation and social dress are being relaxed, and the values of consumers are changing. First, more emphasis on comfort, achievement and sustainability than single sports, and finally, the awakening of the sports community has finally realized the power of fashion.

Although it is shown by the joint sports series 10C Athleta launched by Tory, the Tory and Sport Derek launched by the luxury luxury clothing brand, which is launched by Tory, it has no effect on fashion, but the new trend of this brand expansion may have unforeseen effects in the following two aspects: first, let sports dress be accepted as a daily dress; second, highlight the expertise of traditional sports brands in this field.

Last year, Nike's revenue increased by 10% to $30 billion 600 million.

Its women's clothing department increased by 15% to $5 billion 700 million.

Mark Parker, chief executive of Nike, said that by 2020, he hoped that the revenue of women's clothing could double to 11 billion US dollars, Mark Parker said.

Although some of them come from functional clothing, most of them will come from Nike's "everyday sportswear" and Nike's "sportswear", that is, fashion clothes that can be worn from gym to office and wear home.

Nike is not the only sport brand that wants to use the definition of clothing to become more and more blurred.

In January of this year, Ben Heelas, vice president of Adidas design and running supplies (Ben Herath) once said, "a lot of potential sparks inside the company have been extinguished."

For a long time, the company has been working with Yamamoto Teruji (Yohji Yamamoto), Stella Macartney (Stella McCartney) and Rick Owens (Rick Owens) as the fashion names.

Puma is actively advancing into the market with the help of Rihanna and her Fenty x Puma series. The series also finished the first show on the T stage of New York fashion week.

But Nike is the biggest player in the group.

Its market value is as high as 105 billion 270 million dollars, almost 4.5 times that of Adidas, the closest competitor.

Moreover, unlike other brands, its penetration into the fashion sector is more subtle.

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In the business world, Christopher Bailey first came out of Christopher Bailey, who was both a designer and CEO of Bobo Lee.

Parke started his career in Nike in 1979 and became a running shoe designer. He was the soul figure of developing Pegasus running shoes (Nike's most popular running shoes) and Air Max of all palm air cushion shoes, and was appointed CEO of the company in 2006.

His office betrayed his roots: from Warhol's work to Tiffany's desk lamp, to Batman's shoes, to grotesque insect art works, his office is more like Aladdin's collection of art and small objects, rather than the base of a business gentry.

Parke said, "I like a lot of visual stimulation."

But what he said is actually understatement.

He also tends to downplay his ambition in the fashion industry, saying that the company's focus on fashion and clothes that are worn outside the gym are just for the production of better products and services to its customers, no matter the consumer is an excellent sportsman, just like sprinter Allison Felix [Allyson Felix, the American Olympic track and field athlete's running shoes, inspired by the insect art works created by Parke Christopher Christopher Marie (Christopher Marley), that is, she is dressed in a beautiful mood, or is just an ordinary woman who doesn't want to carry three sets of changing clothes with her gym bag.

He called it a "design thinking" and made it a creed of Nike.

In 2000, Parke took the initiative to find Marc Newson, an industrial designer, and asked him if he was willing to work on a project in.

Before the death of designer Alexander McCune (Alexander McQueen) in 2010, Parke had been discussing with him.

Parke said, "there are 200 pairs of Nike shoes in his shoe cabinet."

But the two did not find the right time.

Parke has also painted "running pictures" on running shoes so far. He has worked with Tinker Hatfield and Teng Yuan Hao (Hiroshi Fujiwara) to make Nike HTM series running shoes which have become collectibles.

Parke is clearly aware of the wider business opportunities for the wearable goods market.

"Fashion is now moving towards more significant movement," he said. "I realized this was not long ago.

I was surprised at a window in Louis Weedon, New York, when I saw a pair of shoes almost copying the shoes I designed in 1983.

I feel more honored than anything else.

If fashion is learning from Nike, Nike is also learning from fashion.

For example, Nike's women training dress design team looks like in many ways, like all fashion designers, using mood board, which is filled with photos of T works of fashion designer Paco Labana (Paco Rabanne) and Alexander Wang (Alexander Wang). The team also went to Berlin, London and other cities to find inspiration and explore restaurants and galleries.

Three years ago, Nike introduced the limited edition classic sports tights the Tight of the Moment series.

This series is brand new, with a new color coming out. The retail price is about $90 each, but it is sold out every time.

Even so, if it's just sexy and charming for tights, no matter how cool they are, they will not have a real impact in the fashion world, even if Parke once claimed that "tight pants are the new generation of tannins".

But eight years ago, sportswear itself, like golf and women's uniform, became a separate department.

Kurt Parker, vice president of Nike fashion design, said the task of the Department is to make clothes for commuters and street children. Kurt Parker

"We realized that our focus in the past was to produce the most incredible shoes, and then let Allison Felix wear for 30 seconds. But what about the rest of her day? Do we want to make a dress? Maybe not.

But we have experimented with producing a longer skirt. "

At the same time, the words "lifestyle", "personality", "Frank", "tradition", "technology" and "personalization" have increasingly become the key elements of fashion shopping decisions. This fact has also become a factor in sports brands.

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Cohen, NPD group, said: "athletes have given them rationality."

They are all celebrities, but the long-term nature of their contracts (Lebron James recently signed a lifetime contract with Nike) hints at a relationship that goes beyond the movie star's only profitable link.

For example, the fact that Nike invited its athletes to visit the park in Oregon and act as a test target for performance products also shows this.

When sprinter Ryan Balli (Ryan Bailey) visited recently, he ran back and forth in underwear in the Nike sports research laboratory, with more than 80 electrodes attached.

And these athletes enjoy more and more treatment in the fashion world than Hollywood stars.

They sit in the front row and middle position of the fashion show and appear on the cover of Vogue magazine together with the models of Gisele Bundchen (Gisele Bundchen).

This, in turn, has brought a trendy aura to sponsoring their partners.

Of course, there is also a risk: Maria Sharapova admitted that after the use of banned drugs, Nike stopped the cooperation with her at a remarkable speed. Kanye West used to be Nike's collaborator, but now he is working with Adidas, and now he is almost openly declaring war against Nike.

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After a sweatshop scandal in 1990s, Nike was restructured to place sustainability in the core of brand identity.

The charges faced at the time included abuses in labor conditions and abuses in factories in the outsourced production sites in Asia.

Nike's 2014 World Cup match 100% is made of recycled polyester; Nike's flying technology makes the entire upper part of the shoe a seamless whole, meaning no waste of any material.

Hannah Jones, chief sustainability officer at Nike, said her goal was to form a "closed loop system" Hannah, Jones.

The driving force that drives Nike to produce faster, more dazzling, lighter and warmer products has also spilled over into the field of clothing.

Nike has two design lines at any time, one involving long-term technological development, and one focusing on four successive releases every year. Like fashion series, new colors, new patterns and new profiles are needed.

Once new materials and new developments are ready for the market, they will penetrate into the season's products.

For example, it took Nike nearly three years to figure out how to produce the seamless Newson shoes that the industrial designer wanted, and Nike Shox took 15 years.

Spearing said, "we must wait and wait for materials to catch up with creativity."

By chance, another chief executive, Tim Cook, the Apple Corp's chief executive, who is also keen on fashion, is a member of Nike's board of directors.

It may be just a coincidence, but if so, it is a coincidence.

There is a glass reinforced bar building on the western edge of Nike Park, which is quite different from other buildings.

It is not named after an athlete like other buildings, such as the John McEnroe building of Nike executive office or the McEnroe Tiger Woods building of the company conference center.

Unlike other buildings, it is not all flaxen wood and long corridors.

On the contrary, it is an empty, loft like space, called the Blue Ribbon Design Studio, which just opened a year ago.

It is full of rolls of cloth and sewing machines, screen printing machines and other authoring tools.

According to Saint Martin, director of studio and Ryan Nunn (Ryan Noon), who graduated from Central St. Martins in London, it does not look like "an art school two, but the conditions are better".

Before coming to Nike, Nunn used to be Alexander McCune's screen printer designer.

The studio even has its own exclusive fragrance, developed by nun, named Freedom of the Creative Mind.

He said it mixed canvas, gypsum powder, sawdust, and "Nike designer sexy sweats".

It also has its own uniform: the uniform is two kinds of light blue and white, lively blouses - "just like the clothes they wear on the advanced custom costume show."

Nunn said that the construction of blue ribbons is because Nike realized that designers of the company needed an unstructured space to allow them to play and create everywhere - almost whatever they hoped to create.

It provides the most creative freedom.

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"When I was at the central Saint Martin Institute, everyone looked down on Sports designers," he said. "Now it seems to have become one of the hottest jobs."

Coincidentally, in September last year, just before the fashion week, Nike's Black Jersey Dark Light series, which was made for the French football team, Paris Saint Germain, was located in the window of Colette, the boutique shop of Saint anore, Paris.

Nike's more fashionable footwear and clothing, such as Riccardo Tisci, Ricardo Tisi Undercover founder and designer Jun Takahashi, are also sold in the company's own Nike labs store and Comme street Gar ons Denver high street market Dover Dover Street.

"They attract a wide range of customers, not just running shoes lovers," said Adrian Joffe, chief executive of Comme des Gar ons.

Fashion brands "need to run very fast to catch up," said Cohen of NPD group. "If they don't act immediately, it will be too late."