The High-End Fashion In The United States Has Always Been Weak, And CK Has The Greatest Hope Of Starting The Big Beam.

Italo Zucchelli and Francisco Costa, which are about to leave from Calvin Klein.

Source: New York Times

On Thursday, there was a big change in the fashion industry (Hedi left YSL! Dior has no designer! Men's clothes are in a mess now!) Calvin Klein announced its men's wear.

The creative director Italo Zaksiri (Italo Zucchelli) and Fransk Costa (Francisco Costa) will also be leaving. Two people have been in Calvin Klein for more than ten years, and now Calvin Klein intends to use a new global creative strategy.

Including men's wear and women's clothing, and other commodities of Calvin Klein, such as jeans, underwear, fragrance and so on, will be integrated into the same field of vision. It is said that the plan will also be named at the appropriate time.

Although Calvin Klein claims that the men's work designed by her creative team will be completed in June, the works of women's wear will be completed in September, but these works will not be exhibited on fashion shows. At the same time, Calvin Klein also refused to disclose when to announce its new plan.

Since the end of last year, rumors of Calvin Klein will continue to be restructured. With this familiar rumor, the former Dior art director, Raf Simons Simmons, is planning to join Calvin Klein.

No surprise, Simmons refused to respond to this.

At present, he is traveling, and in any case, he will not be entangled with Dior any more than this summer.

Whether or not Simmons will join Calvin Klein, this news brings the possibility of reshaping the fashion industry to Calvin Klein. After all, since the founder retired in 2003 and sold Calvin Klein to PVH, Calvin Klein has not had the right to speak in fashion dialogue.

Indeed, if the fashion brand chooses the right person (Simmons is indeed a good choice) and supports him, it is no exaggeration to say that the brand will dramatically reshape New York fashion.

We need someone like that now.

After all, since the emergence of Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan in 80s, designers have rushed to the international stage, making sportswear a global trend, and the American fashion industry has almost never changed.

However, because those brands are becoming mature and gradually losing their persistence in national aesthetics, no matter whether the old people retire (Calvin Klein retire from the stage) or simply repeat, no new people can win the lottery.

The new generation, Marc Jocobs, Narciso Rodriguez and Michael Kors, can only go to Europe to open up the market and then become famous all over the world.

Another brand (Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and Altuzarra), though innovative in its artistic style, is too small to have much global influence.

But Calvin Klein, which sold $8 billion 200 million in 2015, can reshape the fashion industry.

The main reason why this goal is not successful now is mainly PVH's own situation. It has brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Izod, Warner 's and Speedo. Obviously, PVH emphasizes brand attractiveness and business opportunities in the end market.

Although the design of Costa and zacsi has been well received, and Costa has twice won the CFDA Design Award for women's wear of the year, and zacchi has won a best design award for men's wear in the year, they are still unvalued and have no significant impact on the brand operation of Calvin Klein.

Indeed, sales of men's and women's clothing do not add up to Calvin Klein of five percent of total merchandise sales.

Three years ago, I interviewed Tom Murry, the then president of the financial times. In a video interview, he told me before the lens that men's and women's fashion was classified as "the beginning of marketing" on the balance sheet. "Tom Murri"

Selling fragrance is a better option than men's and women's wear.

Ask people what you remember about Calvin Klein, and people will talk about cowboy sports of Justin Bieber and Kendall Jenner.

Fashion work? Huh? What is that?

Opportunity: to fill New York

Empty, then we can not only send a strong and coherent aesthetic Manifesto in New York, but also surpass New York.

If Calvin Klein can do this, it is not only a major breakthrough in the past 12 years, but also a breakthrough in PVH strategy.

The arrival of the new president and the decision to change the company's creative structure were not an accident at the same time.

In 2014, Calvin Klein brand former chairman Steve Sforman (Steve Shiffman).

The new leadership is a new beginning, especially if stone Forman has found a designer partner, whose ambition has surpassed only the whole world.

To $10 billion, what is more important is that this person can make a bigger aesthetic declaration for the world we live in.

For the well-being of all of us, I hope Mr. Forman can find such a person.

Meanwhile, gifted Mr. Costa and Mr. Zach Siri will also return to the job market.

Interested companies should lock them in as soon as possible.