How Can We Design Jewelry That Attracts Everyone?

According to the world clothing and shoe net, after more than a month after the presidential election, the barricade set up by the police still surround the Tiffany (Tiffany) flagship store, but close to the shop, a celebration and jewelry. Designer Eddie Borgo little cooperation party is in progress. Because the store is located next to Trumpt tower (TrumpTower) in Manhattan's Fifth Avenue and fifty-seventh street, the partnership's listing plan has been postponed because of the post election campaign.

Most of the guests enter from the side door instead of the main entrance. All the other jewellery has been removed from the display cabinet except for the seven works in the center of the room, but security personnel are still standing in every corner of the room. Wearing gorgeous fashion editor and stylist laughing and chatting. In all of this, Tiffany's design director, FrancescaAmfitheatrof, smiled brightly because she was the host of events today.

In theory, the new energy is used to revive the 179 year old. brand That's exactly what we need to hire a 46 year old designer. Borgo is an American, has a loose, charming avant-garde aesthetics, welcomed by a new generation of knowledgeable jewelry buyers. But in order to adapt to the simple and elegant beauty of Tiffany, the designer matched the real gold on the bracelet and necklace on the safety chain, giving it a smoother quality. "What we do in our studio is very specific," Borgo said. "But Tiffany has a large mass base. It is not a niche brand. Things are different for you. "

In other words, how to design jewelry that can attract everyone?

Few people are more familiar with the situation than Amfitheatrof himself. The Italy and Russian mixed blood, born in Japan and long in London, has been designing the desktop for the Alessi and developing perfume for private customers with her professional travels. At the same time, for more than 20 years, she has designed jewelry for Chanel and Fendi under the guidance of her tutor KarlLagerfeld.

In her three years in office, Amfitheatrof has brought strong market reaction to Tiffany, which has not been received for a long time in Tiffany. In 2015, before the Borgo cooperation series, she cooperated with the trend weathervane Dover Street Market of the industry, launched the "Out of Retirement" series, reinterpreted the classic Tiffany style. Her design has also won the favor of many celebrities: at the 2016 Oscar prize presentation ceremony, Kate Blanchett (Cate Blanchett) wore a pair of Tiffany diamond earrings and rings, while Ricci Weathspoon (Reese Witherspoon) sparkled in the value of more than 1 million dollars in Tiffany jewelry. Earlier this year, Grace Coddington, the creative director of the former US version of Vogue, directed art in her autumn catalog, filmed actress Lupita Nyong O and Elle Fanning, the first time the brand used celebrity faces in advertising.

Her first series, simply called T series, marks the new direction of the brand. These styles are exquisitely detailed, implying the brand name of Tiffany. The bracelet that looks very simple is tilted at right angles and formed T shaped at both ends. Necklaces and Earrings like a slight smile at the end, add a little inspiration to the wearer. This series is a simple, charming, effortless, unique and typical Tiffany jewelry.

LupitaNyong 'O wears T series jewelry in Tiffany&Co. advertisements.

　 A year of shimmering sporadically

However, apart from applauding, we all know the challenges of the economic environment. Tiffany has lowered its profit forecast and its share price has dropped. Its joint venture with Swatch, a Swiss watchmaker, failed. Since 2014, its annual sales have been hovering around us $4 billion, during which Tiffany's share price fell by more than 40%. In the three years since the appointment of Amfitheatrof, Tiffany has changed blood to senior executives in a luxury group. Philippe Galti is a senior executive of Cartire (Cartier); Jenniferde Winter is a retail veteran of Sax's Fifth Avenue department store (Saks Fifth Avenue); and Jean-MarcBellaiche, a former senior partner of Boston Consulting Group. Tiffany's former chief executive, Michael Kowalski, retired in 2015 and gave her mantle to FredericCumenal. He was a blunt French and had gained a lot of money in the road. Luxury goods Previously, he served as president and chief executive officer of Moet and Chandon (Moet&Chandon).

Because of the strength of the US dollar, the expansion of the brand in the Asian market has been as difficult as every brand in the luxury market. What is more urgent is its decline in the American consumer's mind. SimeonSiegel, an analyst at Instinet, said: "I don't think the Tiffany brand is damaged, but the product is very important. Now, they are reforming. "

Amfitheatrof sits in a room on the executive floor of Tiffany, overlooking the hustle and bustle of Madison Square Park, her brown hair and shoulders, wearing a blue and white striped shirt, and wearing a new round of three jewel inlaid rings. "I don't think we need to be in jewels at Tiffany," Amfitheatrof's British accent comes from her experience in boarding schools in Britain: "we know when to say no." In this way, she was in line with the classic Tiffany. Even with sparkling diamonds, a jewel should still look relaxed and light, rather than overly fancy. Amfitheatrof mentioned Jacqueline Kennedy (Jackie Kennedy), who once wore a pair of jeans and T-shirts, and a shiny Tiffany bracelet on her wrist, across the street.

History of American style

It was not until the glorious era after the second world war that Tiffany became a cultural symbol. Founded in 1837 and founded by CharlesLewisTiffany and its partner JohnB.Young, the company has grown into one of the world's leading silver jewelry manufacturers. At the end of the nineteenth Century, Tiffany will boldly bring large gemstones to the United States, including Huangshi jewelry from Europe and a huge yellow diamond from Kimberley mine in South Africa. But until Marilyn Monro (MarilynMonroe) 1953 hot song "diamond is a girl's best friend" (Diamond 'sAreaGirl sBestFriend), the brand entered the public view in a different way. In the 1962 movie "Breakfastat Tiffany" s, Audrey Hepburn, the celebrity Holly Golightly, was more famous than Tiffany. The brand has become the American taste maker, Ellizabeth Taylor (Elizabeth Taylor), Jean Slimpton (Jean Shrimpton) and Lisa Minnelli (Liza Minnelli) often show off the Tiffany jewelry they wear.

RebeccaTuite, the author of the historian and the seven sisters style, said: "Tiffany jewelry has made the American style complete in many ways. The relaxed, simple, comfortable, up and down clothes that appeared in 1930s and 1940s have defined American fashion. Since then, whether it's the bold and interesting design of Jean Schlumberger, the exquisite sculpture of ElsaPeretti with sculptures, or the colorful and colorful interpretation of PalomaPicasso, Tiffany has created some of the most iconic and complex works, but has made up for the simple, relaxed and comfortable fashion styles in the United States.

Peretti first worked with Tiffany in the mid 1970s to create a diamond inlaid Yard necklace and buckle design. She also designs smooth bone cufflinks, simple line bracelets and pendant shaped beans. Her most famous design is a heart-shaped necklace, 11 millimeters wide, and a simple silver pendant hanging on a fine chain. It has become an essential jewellery for high school graduates.

New design

For the brand, a solid foundation is a luxury, and at the same time, it is necessary to create new hot products on this basis. Jaime Cohn-Barr, editor of Forecast Ltd WGSN, says luxury jewelry brands are eager for new things, because they try to attract consumers who are buying for the first time. "The concept of simple jewelry is still very influential," she said, noting that the influence of architecture has penetrated into jewelry design. "The appearance of industrial style is very market."

Amfitheatrof is no exception. Many of the designs in the "Out of Retirement" series reflect this: cube cuff links, thick rings and wooden bracelets reflect the past of Tiffany, and at the same time have the fashionable sense of the moment. Melvyn Kirtley, chief gemologist of Tiffany, points out another important point: "she uses coloured gemstones as a palette in painting," Kirtley says: "there is a gradual change in color. This gave her design a unique three-dimensional sense. This is exactly what Amfitheatrof expects.

In Tiffany's senior jewellery Blue Book this year, she paired Tanzania, aquamarine and green tourmaline to create a ripple sea view on a platinum necklace. This series includes all kinds of super luxury, unique, valued at more than $5 million jewelry, and this year's focus is a platinum necklace with a 40.22 carat, flawless emerald cut diamond.

Another smaller, more prominent Masterpieces is more suitable for ordinary luxury consumers. Each set follows a close theme and rethinks how the old design becomes more fresh and practical. Half of the design is very familiar to Tiffany fans, such as jewelry that looks soft and touch. Amfitheatrof talked about a ribbon necklace with three rows of diamonds, and diamonds intertwined as if it was made of silk. "When I designed this necklace, I really thought we designed the ultimate Tiffany," she said.

Colorful

The other half of the series is bright and bright, giving consumers an unprecedented Tiffany by injecting bold colors. The new Tiffany Prism series is not like the old style of diamond, but a series of bold spheres filled with colored gemstones, inspired by LouisComfortTiffany's coloured glass products. On a ring, there seem to be three planets merging. In contrast, Tiffany launched a series of rose designs in 2012, with only one color gemstones on rings, necklaces and earrings. In the past, no one has been so interested in color.

Amfitheatrof insists that there is no need to taboo. There are always things she wants to add, and there are always things she wants to streamline. There are rumors that she is going to change the classic blue box of Tiffany. She said, "Vogue" misunderstood her, but fans laughed at the blasphemous rumors. "Our blue box is very symbolic," Amfitheatrof said. "There are still many things to do in the brand. I think this is the least important thing I deal with. This is really not on my agenda. "

Looking back at Amfitheatrof's first day at Tiffany in 2013, she brought notable changes to the jeweler. At that time, she walked into the company. Sketches already had design sketches, which will be named T Series in the future. "My design is ambitious," she said.

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