Italy Tailors: "Anti Technology" And The Spirit Of Builders Make Them "Luxury".

There are many descriptions of tailors in ancient Chinese poetry, but most of them are lonely and cold. Italy is different. Before 1000, there were "Sant Omobono". Tailoring, sewing, nailed buttons, shoulder designers and even ironing staff were highly respected. The Italians began to feel full of affection and awe from the cloth. Gaetano Savini, one of Bourriau Ni's founders, said: "wool is a living material that needs time to adjust and breathe. Your suit should be ironed at least 184 times in 2 months. You can only wait for this time. " Similarly, there is a rare vicu a fabric in Italy, which is expensive and rare. Therefore, in the workshop of Kiton, if this cloth is used to make western style clothes, it must be tailored and tailored by 45 tailors of the 350 oldest tailors in their workshops, which consumes 25 working hours and can produce only 520 pieces a year.

Italy is rich in high-grade fabrics. It has never been short of innovation in the past one hundred years. It is probably related to this kind of respect and respect for the profession. At the end of World War II, materials were scarce. Many Europeans didn't have spare money to make new suits. So someone took out the suit that was used in Zegna (Ermenegildo Zegna) cloth. The tailor only turned out the inside of the suit cloth and a new suit. The spirit of the craftsman is how to stretch the dimension of the art. They insist on making a suit by hand, or even without any sewing machines, because only the handwork has the unique characteristics. A suit of hand sewn suits can not be duplicated by industrial processes, which is the meaning of the existence of craftsmen.

A century ago, the concept of industrial production swept the United States and the United Kingdom, but some hand craftsmen in Italy were very stubborn. They believed in tradition: shoes should fit well, clothes should be fitted, and materials should be well worn. This point completely deviates from the concept of big industrial production efficiency as king. Not everyone has the courage to go against the tide of the times. This traditional paranoia has spawned a number of fine hand-made brands. Among the ten top men's clothing brands in the world, Italy brands account for eight seats. "Anti technology" and stick to it Craftsman spirit They later became "luxury goods".

Looking out from the classroom window of Brioni Scuola Di Alta Sartoria, the undulating hills of Pescara, Italy, and the well preserved ancient town of fifteenth Century, the Adriatic Sea is just 32 kilometers away. This is Penne, the ancient city of Italy. The city was built on 4 hills. During the Rome period, the "historic sites" of spa were discovered. Today, we have entered the ancient city or the moss ladder. The columns and columns are still very elegant.

Nazareno Fonticoli, one of the founders of Bourriau Ni's brand, was born in penny, and was a famous tailor in Rome when he founded the brand in 1945. In 50s, he decided to open the clothing workshop to penny, who was 3 hours away from the capital. The old saying goes that Shandong is a noisy horse, Ningbo is a tailor and Shaoxing is a teacher. In Italy, Abruzzo (Abruzzo) came out of the tailor and totcana made a cobbler. Penny is in Abruzzo. The tailors are really famous all over Italy. Almost every family has tailor's relatives. Sewing and embroidery is an essential skill for women.

When the Brio workshop just opened, there were only 44 tailors. By 70s, the market had been opened in Europe and the United States, and the number of tailors has increased to 500. However, more and more tailors are needed in the production workshop. Before, the tailors in Abruzzo had little employment opportunities, and most of them went back to town to find their livelihood. Bourriau Ni sent a message to the governor that he had a job opportunity. Soon, 100 tailors returned to their hometown for employment. Even so, considering that the number of excellent tailors in Italy is getting smaller and older, it poses a threat to the company's manual tailoring skills. In 1985, they finally opened their own tailoring school and began recruiting students with an officially recognized government project. They merged the two syllabus of senior high school students and tailors and became one of the early tailoring schools.

After the opening of Penny's workshop, this brand is all inclusive. sewing All the work is done here, and many of Bourriau Ni's locals are at work. Now, there are 1000 tailors in Bourriau Ni's clothing workshop. 220 of them will be involved in the production process of a suit, and can produce 60 thousand suits in one year. The tools they use are needles, threads, scissors and tape measures, which are not two different from more than 100 years ago. There is even a road in pennelfield, named after the founder Nazareno Fonticoli, whose headquarters is on this road. According to Bourriau Ni's reply to sina finance, "today, penny is Brian, Bourriau Ni is penny".

In many people's eyes, in the era of Internet plus, it took four years to learn tailoring. After all, life's work was a pair of scissors. In Bourriau Ni, they even need a stitch of 7000 stitches for a suit. Fortunately, the 7000 needles are not disordered. The production process of a suit is decomposed into 220 steps, which are finished by 220 senior tailors: manual drawing, manual plate making and tailoring, and the last 90 parts are finished by hand sewing. During this period, we need ironing 80 times, with 22 hours of efficient work. Among them, manual buttonholes need to be eyed with a wedge. Sewing a buttonhole stitch requires 100 stitches, which takes 30 minutes.

In Bourriau Ni's workshop, science and technology The evolution did not touch the production process. Like fifty or sixty years ago, Bourriau Ni still adopted the unique manual production mode, which was passed down from generation to generation. It takes 7000 stitches to sew a suit. Only 15% of them are visible outside, and the other 85% pins are hidden inside, all in order to ensure the comfort of wearing. Like a pair of hand-made shoes, many details are hidden in shoes, and the surface can not be seen, but shoes are comfortable only feet know. I asked Brian how they understood the concept of "craftsman spirit". The company responded to Sina's financial response and said to them, the craftsman spirit is how to stretch the dimension of sewing art. A suit of hand sewn suits can not be duplicated by industrial processes, which is the meaning of the existence of craftsmen.

What needs special emphasis is that, because the proportion of hand-made products is high, the clothing factories in Italy are generally not called "factories" but "workshops". There are only a few sewing machines in the workshop of Kiton, a high-end handmade men's wear brand in Naples, Italy. Several of them look old enough to enter the museum. Ironing is especially heavy but highly efficient Antique Iron, but must use the local "hot spring water". No computer, no automatic cutting machine... The tailor is the best asset of the workshop. Kiton production workshop in the outskirts of Naples is located in the poorest part of Italy, but the starting salary of workers is three percent higher than that of Italy's lowest hourly wage. In the dining hall, only three euros of traditional Italy cuisine are needed, only 1 euros. The explanation of Kiton is to make the tailors happy. Only when they are happy can they do the job well.

"Craftsman spirit is a kind of impulse of human instinct, a desire to do well for ourselves." This is supposed to be an ideal idea of utopian socialists, but with enough system and salary guarantee, there can be such pure and lovely craftsmen in Europe everywhere. Angelo Petrucci was born in penny, but he was only 13 when he entered Brien's tailoring school in 1985. When he was 20, he became a master tailor when he was 20 years old. He became a master of tailoring in Brien. He claimed to be able to embroider buttonholes with his eyes closed. In order to make the most fitting suit, the young tailor master will also observe the customers' walking seats. He said that being a good tailor should start from childhood. When your fingers are soft and flexible, it is impossible for you to learn sewing when you are 20 years old. This is a good idea to play the piano.

For more information, please pay attention to the world clothing shoes and hats and Internet cafes.