Phoebe Philo'S Era Of C E Line Officially Ended. Is There Any Hope For C Line?

Creative director Phoebe Philo

The era is officially over.

To the industry's surprise, the 2018 autumn and winter series of Phoebe Philo's final work in the brand was released in the form of Lookbook Lookbook, and the reason why the series did not appear in the fashion show was released. C e said that this is related to the current pition period of the creative director. In February 1st, Hedi Laurent, the former creative director of Saint Laurent, took her place.

Compared with many old fashion houses in Paris, C e line is not a classic legend brand.

Since 1945, Celine Vipiana has opened the first boutique in Paris to sell high-end boys.

Since then, it has been through Celine Vipiana, Michael Kors, Roberto Menichetti, Ivana Omazic and so on.

It has produced some popular design products, which occupy a certain market position but have no logo design style products.

Time returned to 10 years ago.

According to the world clothing shoes and hat net, when the boundary was in urgent need of a new direction, Chlo Phoebe returned home from the site of the creative director of the Chlo e, and her child's Philo came out again to join her.

When LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault announced that Phoebe Philo was the new C line line designer, the fashion media celebrated her return in a way that greeted the triumph of heroes.

In less than a year, she launched a big hot handbag, which triggered a number of trend trends, and eventually made C line to become a fashionable index of contemporary women.

Facts have proved that Phoebe Philo's wandering between creativity and risk has not disappointed people who love her.

Many years of buying loyal fans of C line show that Phoebe Philo has made clear the consumers' portraits for C line, especially creating a strong sense of belonging and identity for them.

In addition to imprinting the brand with a strong personal style, Phoebe Philo has brought the performance of C line to a new level.

Although LVMH has never released the specific data of its luxury brands separately, it is expected that C line will have a turnover of about 800 million euros last year and is about to enter the 1 billion euro club.

Cathy Horyn, a fashion critic, said in a commentary for the Cut that the departure of Phoebe Philo marks the end of the "idle time" in the fashion industry because she is a designer for slow fashion.

The fashion industry is a group of anxious people.

Hedi Slimane became the first designer to leave the luxury brand in 2016.

By the end of 2015, Dior's art director Raf Simons and Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz have left. These dramatic changes in personnel are a great change in the fashion industry.

1. The most exclusive brand of the Internet is the past.

In 1997, Phoebe Philo, 23, joined Chlo y as assistant design manager for Stella McCartney.

4 years later, he became the creative director of Chlo, and formally joined C e line in 2008.

For the design philosophy of Phoebe Philo, in a media interview, she said she did not want women to become fashion victims. Luxury must not be based on sacrifice of comfort, nor do they advocate women showing their sexuality through nudity. So you can hardly see sexual dress on T stage.

Phoebe Philo, the storytelling of C line, has many fans.

There is no doubt that such a two-way choice is extremely successful for both brands and designers.

Before her accession, C line, a mediocre performance, seemed to be a very difficult road for others to see.

But she saw the other side of the story, without historical reference and without the established style to continue, which gave her the greatest freedom of creation.

It is noteworthy that Phoebe Philo is very good at making star handbags, from Classic Box to Luggage Tote, and then to Twisted Cabas.

Thanks to the popularity of Chinese consumers, the explosive bag has nicknames such as catfish bag and smiley face bag.

The picture is C, LINE2016 spring and summer series.

The 2016 spring summer series of C e line, which is worth noting, is quite different from before, and the Normcore style is missing.

In 2014, Google published the fashion word with the highest search rate. Normcore ranked first. It represents a comfortable and casual dressing style, but it has been gnawed and left behind by the fashion media.

Fashion trends are changing rapidly, and Phoebe Philo has to admire the general control of fashion trends.

In fact, the resignation of Phoebe Philo has been heard for a long time in the industry. In recent years, there are several editions of its intention to leave. For example, there is an estrangement between LVMH group and three groups of children. It is necessary to take care of the shortage of Chlo between Paris and London.

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However, with the recent frequent digital initiatives of C line, the reasons for leaving are not so simple.

In the same year as Phoebe Philo, she joined C Marco line's CEO Marco Gobbetti in January last year and officially turned to Burberry as CEO.

During the period of Phoebe Philo, C e line was the most anti Internet luxury brand, which is closely related to the concept of Phoebe Philo.

Phoebe Philo has been strongly against the Internet. She once thought that "exposure on Facebook is like walking naked on the street."

So C e line declined online marketing for a long time.

Faced with the popularity of luxury brand digital marketing, C e line never actively grabbed the front row seats on the new media train, and was unintentionally becoming the popular popular luxury brand.

The brand believes that the more the product is exposed on the Internet, the easier it is to get it through the electricity supplier, and the easier the brand image is to be cheaply.

Now, the test of creative director is not only the continuous output of creativity in the fast-paced fashion week system, but also the management's expectations and the overall consideration, control and cooperation.

Some analysts believe that the cost of creativity is carefully assessed. Once the cost is higher than the return, management will not hesitate to replace the creative director.

In this way, it is only a matter of time for C line to continue to digitally expand Phoebe Philo.

Some analysts say that luxury brands nowadays are no longer centered on Star designers. Even the most highly rated designers in the industry can not escape the outcome of "breaking up" with the brand if they can not cope with the pressure of complex brand operation and performance.

"Usually when the creative director leaves, it's because she doesn't get enough control."

An industry insider who has worked in LVMH group and declined to be named.

It is more and more obvious that the important concept of the marketing of luxury brands is mass production. The emphasis is placed on business and industrial logic. The position of creative director will also become less important. This evolution makes fashion art day and day away from us.

2, the most bold creative director joined the most conservative brand.

When a creative director takes a long time in a brand, there will be only two outcomes, or a lifelong contract like Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel, or bear the pressure of performance, behind the knife, and suddenly "be left" at an unexpected moment.

In January 2015, Kai Yun group announced that Marco Bizzarri, the head of luxury fashion and leather goods department, took over the sluggish Gucci. The creative director Frida Giannini was dismissed after the autumn and winter series was released at the end of February that year. No one had thought that in just 3 years, the Frida Giannini successor led Gucci to dismount Hermes and become the most difficult competitor of Louis Vuitton.

The successor was Alessandro Michele, which was not optimistic about the industry at that time.

In 2015, Alessandro Michele may be the biggest and most difficult job in the fashion industry.

Over the past year or so, the growth of the whole industry has slowed down, and Gucci sales have hardly increased. In the past 10 years, the fashion house has always lacked a highly recognizable aesthetic.

But as Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole quit, Marco Bizzarri faced the question of what kind of brand Gucci wanted to be, whether it was like focusing on the classic style of Hermes, or keeping pace with direct competitors Louis Vuitton or Prada.

Marco Bizzarri's ten - year term in Bottega Veneta has been called "one of the best growing stories in the luxury industry".

Marco Bizzarri and Alessandro Michele bet on it.

Gucci betting that young people and digitalization are gradually exerting power. The "Gucci effect" created by Alessandro Michele is not a flash in the pan. It has been leading the luxury industry for 8 consecutive quarters. Last year, revenue has been racing to 6 billion euro clubs. The brand value of the millennial consumers is rapidly increasing.

However, Alessandro Michele's group colleague Hedi Slimane is more adventurous.

Hedi Slimane served as Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche design assistant in 1997 and quickly promoted to brand creative director, leaving Yves Saint Laurent brand for the first time in 2000.

From 2000 to 2007, he joined Dior Homme as the chief designer of men's wear. After leaving Dior, he focused on photography and returned to Yves Saint Laurent as creative director in 2012.

The picture shows the designer Hedi Slimane, who takes over Phoebe Philo as the creative director of C line.

Before Hedi Slimane entered YSL, its brand performance was not satisfactory. It was once the fastest growing brand of Kai Yun group.

Since the brand closed its advanced customization business, it has also fallen to the bottom.

In its 4 years of service, Hedi Slimane renamed YSL Saint Laurent, which successfully helped to double the brand turnover and brought the brand to the $1 billion club.

But at the same time, Hedi Slimane has been criticized for its 4 years' term. It has been accused of destroying brand visual identity and disgracing the brand heritage.

After taking over the brand, Hedi Slimane immediately removed the Yves of Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris, which made a lot of trouble. Some people even designed Ain't and Saint T-shirt and hat to show their resistance.

In the two quarter men's clothing and four season women's show designed by Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent Paris, fashion media and the public seem to be constantly cracking down.

Some people say that he still insists on going to the line of Dior Homme lean to screaming before. Some people think he made the noble YSL a rock star and Forever 21 design.

On April Fool's day in April 1, 2016, Hedi Slimane officially left the creative director of Saint Laurent. In April 8th, the brand removed all its Instagram content, which means that the branding of Hedi Slimane was completely cleaned.

Subsequently, the relationship between Hedi Slimane and Kai Yun Group continued to be deadlocked, and even countered Kai Yun group: "without me, there will be no brilliant achievement of YSL".

Finally, the Paris Commercial Court ruled last year that Hedi Slimane won the competition in the dispute with Kai Yun group.

It is reported that during the period of prohibition of business strife, Hedi Slimane was almost rejected by all competing companies. After 2 years of idle time, it finally ran to LVMH group, a rival group.

1 years later, his former colleague, Alessandro Michele, was stronger and the growth rate of Gucci exceeded Saint Laurent for the first time. In the first quarter of 2017, he recorded a sharp rise of 51% to 1 billion 354 million euros, the strongest growth in 20 years.

More than 3 years ago, what led to Gucci's nightmare and Saint Laurent became a hero. The answer is the creative director. Now Gucci has been successful, and the answer has not changed.

3, "Dior Department" to fight against Gucci

In November 9th last year, Italy luxury brand Fendi CEO Pietro Beccari was appointed Dior brand CEO by LVMH group, and Sidney Toledano, who served as Dior CEO for 23 years, turned to Chairman and CEO of the fashion fashion group. He will control the brand of the company.

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In 1994, Sidney Toledano began to be the head of Dior leather products department, and soon got the recognition of LVMH boss Bernard Arnault with the successful Lady Dior handbag.

He was promoted to managing director in 1996 and was appointed president and CEO in 1998.

Under the leadership of Sidney Toledano, Dior fashion has remained stable, increasing by an average of 12% per year since 2000, but in recent years it has been threatened by the sudden emergence of Gucci.

Although not a direct boss, but this time, Hedi Slimane once again returned to the brand under the power of Sidney Toledano, Hedi Slimane signed a contract with Dior in 2000 and restarted the Dior Homme series for men's wear. The slim and simple men's style made by him has become the object of fashion.

It is reported that Hedi Slimane will add a series of men's wear for C line, the first independent C line men's boutique will open in 2019.

It is noteworthy that Sidney Toledano is the most important promoter of Dior brand younger.

With the accession of Dior's first female creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Sidney Toledano emphasized that the brand will be reformed, which will inject more Maria Grazia Chiuri to the understanding of young lifestyle.

Maria Grazia Chiuri was not well liked at first, and the first series was controversial.

However, Sidney Toledano has always expressed support for creative director.

Through the clever use of design methods such as feminism, accessories, Logo identity, Dior quickly showed people in new images, and the design innovation was soon reflected in performance data.

In the first half of last year, sales of Dior fashion department surged 17.2% to 1 billion 47 million euros, and net profit soared 58% to 117 million euros.

In its third quarter earnings report, LVMH group stressed that its Dior fashion department, which bought 6 billion 500 million dollars this year, has made a great contribution to the growth of sales volume.

According to statistics, Dior recorded an organic growth of 12% in the first three quarters. The Group expects Dior fashion sales to expand to 3 billion euros in 2020.

There are indications that LVMH Group intends to turn C line into "second Dior" on the scale of revenue.

LVMH Bernard and Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of the Bernard, set a target of two times to three times the revenue in the next 5 years, that is to say, compared with the sales of 1 billion euros in 2017, the first step will be to enter the 2 billion euro club.

Similarly, the business strategy of C line has changed 180 times.

Last July, C e line opened the service number on WeChat platform and released the first WeChat tweets about C LINE in November.

In December 5th, the first business platform of C e line was expected to go online. Reporters found on its official website that they sell products including classic clothing, shoes and classic handbags.

It is worth noting that C e line has surpassed the more conservative Chanel in terms of the positive degree of the electricity supplier.

At the end of February this year, C e line opened its Instagram official account for the first time, attracting 43 thousand fans in a few hours.

In April, C e line hired S verine Merle, executive vice president of the Italy men's wear brand Berluti Berluti, to replace Marco Gobbetti to become C C line's new CEO. She brought new ideas to the company, claiming that it would pform the brand to digital upgrade.

It is pointed out that whether Hedi Slimane will integrate its iconic rock and roll style into C line, it is now clear that the Hedi Slimane Slimane, which is always free, will not be satisfied with simply extending the brand's past style.

Hedi Slimane may make a variety of changes, including vision, to C line. Whether fans oppose or not, C line line with Phoebe Philo style is ushering in a new turn.

Earlier, the analysis of the American women's wear daily concluded that this may mark the termination of a master era behind the scenes. Now the fashion industry has begun to favor this kind of star designer with strong personal style and excels in music, photography, painting and many other fields. Its bold and comprehensive innovation can quickly win the topic fever and sales performance for the brand.

The value of luxury brands depends on products, so product design reform is very important in brand remolding. However, analysts say that in addition to creative design, C line will pay more attention to marketing in the future.

Faced with the uncertainty of global luxury consumption, Bernard Arnault also emphasized earlier that without marketing, the group would not be able to base itself on the luxury market.

Bernard Arnault has said that Phoebe Philo has successfully led C e line out of the predicament in the past four years, and now C line will open up a new chapter. This also implies that LVMH has greater expectations for C line, or that it will digitally and juvenitally imitate it and stimulate revenue growth.

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