Take A Small Plum To Discuss The Changes Of Suits
Whether it is the legendary tycoon of the financial street, the charming secret agent who flies from eaves to wall, or the super power who saves the world, the elite men in this universe seem to have such a uniform: a suit, especially a high definition suit.
It represents the formal expression of men, the mature performance and excellent demeanor under proper dress. With exquisite tailoring and temperament shaping, it seems that wearing a suit makes you become a person in the play.
Movies are an ideal window for studying suits. If you are not familiar with suits and don't know where to start, let's follow Little Li to see the suits of different times in different movies and find your own dress model.
The Birth of Suits
In the movie "The Rescued Jiang Ge", the constant pursuit of revolutionary unity and independence movement is described one thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight In 2003, men's suits pursued a simple, thick and formal classical style. Leonardo's candy manor owner wears a short suit with black velvet collar.
The characteristics of this era are that the jacket is only buttoned, the chest is open, and there is no rear slit, which is more comfortable. The gold vest on the inner background and the wine red silk scarf on the neck reflect his identity as a local tyrant.
This period happened to be a period of change in suits, a transition period from tight gowns obviously affected by military uniforms to loose fitting jackets. The local tyrant manor owner wore a fashionable men's jacket, but the silk scarf at the collar was a popular product of the previous period. During this period and later, more people chose to use silk ties instead of this kind of necktie.
The end of the era
In the film Titanic one thousand nine hundred and twelve The tragic love story in made Leonard famous from then on. It can be seen from the high-level dinner party of the first-class class in the film that in the upper class society at that time, the tuxedo became popular, characterized by short front, long back and swallow tail shaped slits in the back, the collar of the suit was shaped, the shirt was worn inside to pursue the stiffness of the cuff, and the double wing collar could be tied with a black and white tie.
At that time, men's dresses were divided into three types: short evening dress, morning dress and tuxedo. The appearance of tuxedo is also due to the inconvenient activities of the tight long gown derived from the military uniform. A British cavalry soldier rolled back the front hem of the long gown and pinned it in order to facilitate horseback riding. This is the original form of the tuxedo.
The short evening dress is not much different from the modern men's suit. The morning dress and the tuxedo are both short in the front and long in the back. However, in addition to the tuxedo shaped slits, the tuxedo is most different from the morning dress, and the details are more gorgeous than the morning dress (such as collar, cuff, hem, etc.).
The revival of fashion
The period when tuxedo was popular at banquets was the jazz age when women's clothing changed rapidly, and men's clothing was in a stable state.
From Hoover one thousand nine hundred and nineteen The story of one thousand nine hundred and twenty-two As can be seen from the legend in, Leonardo's daily dress reflects the suit culture of Saville Street in England, which is the prototype of the three piece suit that is now known to the public.
The three piece suit is characterized by single row buttons, chest and waist darts in the front, which makes the clothes more suitable. The front front flap is round, and it is matched with a typical British style white shirt with a large pointed collar, which is rigorous and dignified. The daily suit style of this era is also collectively called "bag type regular clothes", which is also the modern model of standard suits.
The era of booming economic crisis
twenty century thirty In the s, Americans tried to establish a new school, just like American English, they wanted to create American style in their suits. tell about one thousand nine hundred and thirty-nine In "The Aviator", a love story in 1997, Leonardo took the American route.
The suit style they created was later turned into practical men's clothing in Europe, which is more casual and loose than British formal clothes in style. The main features are narrow waist, wide shoulder, and fat sleeve cage. The waist line is quietly raised by several inches, and the shoulder is widened with a wide shoulder pad, leaving a margin for the sleeve cage to allow freedom of movement.
This huge change to the suit has been fully accepted and recognized by Europe due to the huge publicity effect of the daily wear of Hollywood movie stars.
Postwar fifty years
Dressing preferences under the influence of the great wave of economic development in the United States and the human rights liberation movement, as well as the boredom after the war, made the male league also hope to come out of the haze like women, no longer strictly follow the strict British style, and people began to pursue a sense of relaxation. At that time, the clothes were characterized by a long coat, three buttons in a single row, straight front, and a shirt with a high collar.
one thousand nine hundred and ninety In "The Wolf of Wall Street" in, Li Xiaolang, a stockbroker and a fan of pornography, gambling and drugs, wore the style of "power dress" under the outbreak of Wall Street.
Features: a tailored single breasted suit with two buttons and wide stripes, also known as Wall Street power stripes. The overall style pursues straightness, reliability and oppression.
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