Head Fashion Big Brand PK Increasingly White Hot Chanel, Prada Who Is Better?

From time to time, fashion shows did not seem to have really come to an end.

After four weeks of fashion week and men's week in January and February, the fashion week of New York, London, Milan and Paris took turns.

Then the stage spotlights went to Asia, Europe and Australia, and small cities featured in different stages.

And this little fashion show has not stopped. The holiday series of the major fashion brands have arrived with the advent of May.

From the end of April to the beginning of May, famous luxury brands such as Dior, Chanel and Prada held brand early spring holiday series fashion show around the world.

Although the new clothing series that has been launched so quickly after the end of the regular fashion week seems to be against the common sense, for the brand, the holiday series of seasonal replacement is often of great commercial significance.

On the one hand, seasonal costumes occupy the longest and the most proportion in display windows. On the other hand, holiday series are often made of garments and are easier to sell in stores.

The holiday show, as another star studded fashion event, also helps fashion network red and stars in the off-season fashion "bring goods", thus leading to sales.

Therefore, every year's early spring vacation series fashion show, the PK of head fashion and big brand is becoming more and more intense.

Dior: dialogue with others

From Tokyo to Monaco to Losangeles, Dior has been familiar with the fashion show across the ocean.

In April 29th, Dior released the 2020 early spring vacation series. The destination of this season is the ancient city of Morocco in Africa: Marrakech.

The site of the Saadi Dynasty's historical and cultural heritage, the palace of Bardi, built in 1593, is decorated with hundreds of floating candles in front of the palace. The skylight, water light and candlelight mingle with each other.

But the city of Marrakech is more than just a platform for publishing fashion. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of Dior, hopes to integrate Morocco's cultural and artistic perspectives into fashion design inspiration.

The theme of this holiday series of Dior selects the concept of "common ground", inspired by a book written by Tahar Ben Jelloun, a French writer living in Morocco, to explain racism to my daughter.

The book says: "culture teaches us to live together, teaches us to live in the world instead of being alone."

Other people's different traditions and lifestyles are as lively and interesting as our own culture. "

In an interview with New York Times, Maria said that the fashion industry is now deliberately or unconsciously becoming a battleground among different cultures. But she wants to take an adventurous move to soften the sharp embezzlement relationship between the two cultures and turn it into an equal attitude to appreciate each other's culture.

She said, "I think it is very important for Dior to come up with this different viewpoint."

Maria invited Anne Grosfilley, an anthropologist who specializes in textiles and fashion in Africa, as a consultant for the whole series of designs.

Anne not only helps brands buy Fabrics, but also combines local manufacturer Uniwax to reinterpret Dior logo printing patterns, and has made many garments from cotton to batik and spinning 100% "made in Africa".

Most of the 113 new models on display are selected from Morocco's unique land tones, dark brown, yellowish brown, ochre and mossy green, with a calm and natural tone. The batik printing process adds a cool edge to the common Dior profile.

In addition, as the first female creative director of Dior, Maria has also persisted in the concept of female artists in this show.

She invited Sumano, a local female handicraft Union in Morocco, to make a hand seat cushion for audience seats, which adorned the feminist cultural interest for the show's details.

Various cooperation has made Maria successfully prove that Dior is not just making fun of Morocco culture, but by constantly enjoying the foreign culture and integrating fresh artistic perspective into its own blood.

Chanel: write the previous volume.

Equally notable is the 2020 early spring holiday series released by Chanel on May 3rd in The Grand Palace, Paris, because it is the first show that Virginie Viard has shown by the new successor of Lord Buddha.

The invitation to the holiday show was printed on a plain white card. WWD commented that this symbolized the beginning of the new creative director's writing of a new blank in the brand.

The same as the invitation, there is also the show itself, a retro railway station with a tall steel structure and glass roof. The audience is sitting on the wooden waiting couch, with the names of the cities that have a long history with the Chanel brand on top of the seats: Venice, San Tso Pepe, Rome, Edinburgh and so on.

The opening style continues the loose profile of Chanel last season, a black cotton dada jacket with wide leg trousers, plus a black bow tie and necklaces necklace, and the three-dimensional modeling is obviously paying tribute to the masculinity of women's clothing created by the founder of Coco Chanel.

And many of the midfield costumes are bottled with pure white shirts. It is easy to see that it is a tribute to the symbolic shape of Buddha.

But Virginie Viard is not satisfied with the style of her predecessors. She is more concerned about the power of the later generation, and many designs are playing the young card.

For example, in terms of color, she boldly uses the popular ice cream colors such as peppermint green, lilac and so on, while the tailoring uses the asymmetric structure to remodel the wide leg split fork trousers, or to use the sweet black bow tie to make the breast.

After the show, Virginie Viard bowed to the curtain.

Since the death of Lord Buddha in February, the designer has not made a public speech before the media, but it is not difficult to imagine that she needs to complete the pressure and challenges faced by the shift.

The fact proves that despite the fact that old Buddha can no longer guide the brand, Chanel's strength remains steady.

WWD commented that although the new debut was relatively conservative, it was understandable to keep the brand new series relatively simple and intact. "It's like a good appetizer to prepare for upcoming cuisine."

Prada: correct anti routine posture.

With the flow economy and the popularity of the fans economy, it is already common practice for brands to choose to travel around the world or show up in places of interest.

At the May 2nd holiday show preview, Miuccia Prada, head of Prada, said the new series will be led by the concept of "simplicity and treason".

Without the setting of eye sucking, Prada chooses simply everything.

The location of the show is arranged on its own site, Prada headquarters in New York. The date of release is also scheduled for a few days before the current Met Gala fashion festival featuring the theme of "Camp wind" (Camp, which refers to various fancy and dramatic fashion styles).

In such a contrast, Prada can be regarded as a clean stream in the fashion industry with the concept of "naive, pure cotton and simple".

Miuccia understands that the only way to resist the overflowing fashion of fashion is to compete with real fashion.

But "simplicity" is definitely not the same. She believes that real fashion is not achieved through eye marketing, but should be attractive and excellent.

Starting from the pure cotton fabric, based on the simplicity, the focus is on the flat version of the suit shirt, then reshaping the tailoring and proportion, and finally splicing it into a loose but unbroken silk dress.

For some styles of tailoring, Miuccia also referred to his 90s works, adding roses and geometric pattern prints, but not just mechanical repetition.

Many models are decorated with plain and sweet folk embroidery, which embodies the concept of "naivete".

However, in order to avoid excessive sweetness and fatigue, accessories are also added with a neutral stripe circular scarf to dilute sweetness.

The style of Prada's anti routine has won many acclaim from many circles.

Fashionista fashion writer Alyssa Klein believes that according to past Prada standards, this series may be considered to be too simple, "but we believe that Miuccia has grasped the right classical design concept in this holiday show.

If we allow the fashion industry to become more and more dissatisfied, fashion will go to cheap one-time aesthetics. "

Robin Givhan, a fashion critic from Washington Post, also said that fashion can sometimes reflect the trend of the world, but sometimes it should remind people what is missing.

"There are so many things to explore in the world, but Miuccia advises people to return to inner peace," she said.

If you can't do it, let her show you first. "