How Can Textile Enterprises Break The Green Trade Barrier? Listen To T V, Zhang Rongna, Manager Of North Department Of Textile Department Of South Deutsche Group.

As we all know, China is the largest textile producer and exporter in the world. Since 1994, China has maintained the first global textile and garment export for 24 consecutive years, and textile and apparel occupy an important share in China's export trade.

At the same time, China's textile and clothing exports are facing more and more complex challenges, such as rising labor costs, rising prices of raw materials, trade wars and other factors, leading to the transfer of domestic textile production capacity to Southeast Asian countries. At present, international trade protectionism and green trade barriers bring new severe challenges to China's textile and clothing export. With the EU REACH regulations as the representative of the restrictions on chemicals and textile, clothing and other fields, the textile enterprises in China have been carrying out the concept of sustainable development on the basis of high quality development and coping with the test of the international complex situation.

As a world-renowned third party testing and certification body, T u V South Deutsche group (hereinafter referred to as "T V South Germany") has more than 150 years of experience in the industry. The service runs through the entire industrial chain. In the field of textile and clothing, it has high-quality professional technical team and advanced testing equipment, helping enterprises interpret the latest requirements and relevant standards of the European and American regulations, formulate strategies to adapt to market positioning, and establish a sustainable development mechanism. Over the years, T V South Germany has been actively helping domestic textile enterprises to cope with green trade barriers.

Well, How does green trade barrier affect geometry? How should domestic textile and garment enterprises respond? What is the impact of the continuous updating of EU REACH regulations on textile inspection technology? How can T V South Germany help domestic enterprises to enhance their international competitiveness and forge a dream of textile power? To answer these questions, the China textile daily reporter interviewed. Senior specialist in textiles, T Zhang Rongna V, North District Manager of NAD textile department. 。

Green trade barriers put forward higher requirements for textile enterprises.

With the improvement of people's quality of life and health, more attention has been paid to the requirements of living environment and green, environmental protection and ecology of food and clothing. "Green textiles" Gradually enter the public's cognitive field.

What is green textiles? Zhang Rongna introduced that green textiles contain a wide range of product production and use cycles, which involve many aspects such as pollution-free environment in the production process, harmless to the human body in wear and tear, natural degradation in the environment after discarding, and renewable and renewable resources.

The European Union is an important area to advocate and implement eco environmental protection, especially in the world's textile ecological development. For this reason, The detection of harmful substances in textile and clothing exported to Europe is more stringent.

Referring to green textiles, we have to mention REACH regulations. According to Zhang Rongna, "In December 2006, the European Union passed and issued the REACH regulation, which is the EU's regulation on the prevention, control, registration, evaluation, licensing and restriction of all chemicals entering the market. It is a chemical control policy to protect the EU's environment. The chemicals that are restricted are unacceptable risks to human health and environment, carcinogenic gene mutations or reproductive toxicity. In October 2008, the EU chemical Administration formally adopted 15 substances as high degree of substance. As of July 16, 2019, the European Chemicals authority's high concern list has been updated to 201 items.

Zhang Rongna said that on a positive level, the regulation will promote innovation in the chemical industry, promote safer products, stimulate competition and growth, and create a unified chemical management system within the EU so that enterprises can follow the same principle to produce safe chemicals and their products. However, the implementation of the REACH regulations is undoubtedly a strong storm for Chinese textile enterprises which export to the EU as an important market. Zhang Rongna said, The REACH regulation is one of the most complicated and influential international technical regulations in China.

that What challenges do China's textile enterprises face with international technical regulations represented by REACH regulations? In this regard, Zhang Rongna considered the following aspects:

First, the EU's new chemicals policy improves the environmental protection procurement requirements of raw materials and increases the direct cost of textile exports.

Two, the EU's new chemicals policy has contributed to the transformation and transformation of enterprise equipment, clean production and energy saving and emission reduction.

Three, export textile and clothing should comply with the compliance requirements of the European Union's chemical administration regulations. It is necessary to update the testing equipment and equipment, improve the detection technology, and increase the input of talents and funds.

Zhang Rongna talked about: Most of the export enterprises in our country undertake the OEM processing of the international clothing brand. From the overall quality of our export garment inspection, the trend is increasing year by year. It is obvious that our textile enterprises' ability to cope with the green trade barrier is increasing. , The high detection rate of substances in EU regulations is gradually decreasing. For example, banned azo dyes, sensitizing dyes, heavy metals, formaldehyde, pH value and so on, recalled from the EU case, because of these concerns by enterprises, recalls showed a decreasing trend. However, detection of perfluorooctanoic acid PFOA, flame retardant and flame retardant textiles in short chain chlorinated paraffin SCCP, residual PAHs and other harmful chemicals in oil, water and antifouling outdoor clothing also occurred.

In the recalled products, in addition to the attention of harmful chemicals, Zhang Rongna said that baby clothing is the focus of attention. For clothing products, not only fabrics, accessories, zippers, less than 3 cm "small parts", such as buttons, applique, ornaments and other decorations, there will be children eating risks, endangering life safety. For example, if the belt of Hoodie clothing is too long, there will be risks such as hook and winding, suffocation and so on. As a result, the European Union and China's infant clothing technical specifications have strict rules.

And in the field of global textile industry has accumulated rich experience of experts, can accurately interpret the third countries' regulatory standards of the inspection institutions, for the significance of domestic textile and garment enterprises is particularly important, professional technology and services can be escorted for the export of textile products.

Professional and technical teams escort export enterprises

Textile testing is indeed a threshold that domestic textile and garment export enterprises have to face. But how can we better enter the international market and enhance the industrial competitiveness of the high-end manufacturing era? T V South Germany as a world-renowned third party testing and certification body, relies on professional, authoritative, efficient testing, training, certification and technical support one-stop service, hoping to provide long-term solutions for Chinese textile enterprises. T V South Germany not only helps the domestic export enterprises' products, according to the European Union, the United States and other international standards and buyers' requirements for testing, smoothly enters the international market, provides a comprehensive, efficient and authoritative one-stop solution, can better customize and promote the brand competitiveness according to the special needs of customers, and also has a strong impetus for transformation and upgrading.

After more than 20 years of evolution, textile inspection technology has shifted from the past purely physical sensory tests, such as appearance, weight, density and strength, to multi-dimensional and multi-functional detection technology integrating physical, chemical and computer automatic inspection and identification. It involves many fields and disciplines, and its technical content is getting higher and higher. Referring to the changes in textile testing, Zhang Rongna said that more and more functional textiles are on the market, so functional testing is also increasing, such as UV protection, moisture absorption, sweat, antistatic, radiation protection, including thermal resistance of sleeping bags, smart wearable textiles testing, etc.

about Functional textiles Any index has strict requirements. Zhang Rongna, an example to reporters, said: "we recently encountered a case study, a thermal barrier performance test for children sleeping bags exported to France, which is an important indicator for evaluating the thermal comfort performance of textiles. According to ISO 5085 and ISO 11092, the standard can not be higher than 0.4 m2.K/W, and there are many factors that affect thermal resistance. For example, the balance time of temperature and humidity, the tight or loose state of samples, the uniformity of filler, the material and weight of fabric will affect the performance of thermal resistance.

"In terms of flame retardancy, the United Kingdom and the United States were the first countries to formulate regulations on combustion regulations, such as pajamas and curtains, which would involve flame-retardant tests to prevent fires and endanger life safety. For children sleeping bags, we should not only have flame-retardant tests, but also test the flame retardants in the EN 71-3 standard, so we can see that the updated EU requirements are stricter.

In the face of the modern concept of "textile testing" is no longer the concept of traditional industries, T V South Germany has been ploughing for many years and has unique advantages in the industry.

"We have not only the most advanced testing equipment, but also the testing technology team with rich professional experience, and also have the global network technical regulation team. Any updated information of the EU regulations will be delivered for the first time. This is our core advantage." Zhang Rongna talked about it.

T V South Germany focuses on all tests of textiles and footwear with high degree of chemical substances. 。 For example, laboratories with high technical requirements are equipped with advanced and high-precision analytical instruments, such as gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (single stage and multistage mass spectrometry), atomic absorption spectrometer, inductively coupled plasma emission spectrometer, etc., which can conduct all chemical tests for textiles and garments, home textiles, leather and footwear. "In terms of equipment, our instruments can cope with all EU regulations and REACH regulations with high degree of attention to chemical testing of substances. We can say that we have all the testing capabilities." Zhang Rongna said.

For every update of EU directive and regulation, T V South Germany will quickly and timely match the corresponding detection technology. Zhang Rongna introduced to reporters: "we have professional proficiency testing professionals who are proficient in textile testing standards at home and abroad. T V South German law and regulation team can learn the updated information of European and American regulations for the first time, and maintain close ties with the domestic textile footwear standardization organization and the tender committee. Once the EU regulations have any information, our law researchers will transmit the information to the front line for the first time.

In fact, the continuous updating of REACH regulations has not only challenged textile enterprises, but also promoted the development of detection technology.

Zhang Rongna said The REACH regulations release more high degree chemicals. As the third party testing organization, the challenge is to meet the demand of fast fashion market with faster detection efficiency. The choice of a more automated and stable detection instrument is the measure we should deal with.

T u V global leader Agilent, a global leader in the field of Applied Chemistry, is a global partner. The efficiency and stability of Agilent instruments provide protection for T V South Germany for textile testing. "Take the fast fashion clothing brand enterprise as an example, the manufacturer only needs half a month from design to a garment on the rack, and it also puts forward higher requirements for the efficiency of the detection link. It can help us to detect the problems in the detection samples more quickly with 7x24 hours to maintain high precision testing equipment." Zhang Rongna said.

It is precisely because of the professional achievements of the current T V South Germany. Today, T V South Germany helps many large international brands to import and export two-way checks and checks. For example, in the process of serving a fast fashion international brand, it ensures both the export inspection of Chinese suppliers and the quality of their products entering the Chinese market, so as to safeguard the safety and interests of Chinese consumers.

Strengthening environmental awareness and building green manufacturing system

T V South Germany has been providing a one-stop solution for export enterprises throughout the entire product life cycle.

"We not only provide testing, but also provide a service. As long as the needs of enterprises, we can tailor training for them, provide customized inspection services of specific value chain, and help enterprises cope with complex international supply chain." Zhang Rongna said T V South Germany has a wealth of laboratory resources to help companies meet their national and European and American regulatory requirements. besides, T V South Germany's proprietary TexCheck and Footwear logo is recognized as a symbol of quality and credibility. It also helps many brand enterprises to build laboratory and get the qualification of CNAS/CMA.

For China's textile and garment export enterprises facing the problem of green trade barriers, Zhang Rongna believes that In the long run, textile enterprises need to strengthen product quality awareness and environmental awareness and improve the technological content of export products.

"Global textile and garment modern procurement mode changes, prompting international buyers to directly connect with our production enterprises. The result is to speed up and urge our product standards and testing methods to be in line with the requirements of international buyers. In the upstream and downstream links of the supply chain, China's textile enterprises lack standardized, standardized and specialized quality management. In the marketing of supply chain, textile enterprises urgently need to grasp the control requirements and evaluation standards of international suppliers' textile quality. Zhang Rongna said that T V South Germany often organized a seminar for suppliers to help enterprises to enhance product quality awareness. And environmental awareness. As a textile export enterprise, we should constantly familiarize ourselves with the updated requirements of REACH regulations and fully understand the impact and influence of REACH regulations on the industry. We need to understand the safety characteristics of chemicals used in textile production and constantly promote the construction of green manufacturing systems.

"How to become a textile power? Only by reaching or even surpassing international standards and improving the quality of products can we establish our own brand. Zhang Rongna thought that Under the background of development of technology, green and fashion, enterprises should intensify their efforts in developing various environment-friendly textile chemicals and green textiles, especially to meet stringent requirements for toxicity, mutagenesis, carcinogenesis, heredity, nerves, immunity and allergies. This is an innovative fulcrum for enhancing the international competitiveness of products. At the same time, if we want to promote the construction of green manufacturing system, only in this way can we turn passivity into initiative.

China's textile industry has achieved a great transformation from small to large, from weak to strong. Although the internal and external environment we are facing is becoming more and more complex, the fundamentals of healthy and stable development of the industry have not changed, and the conditions for supporting the development of high quality production have not changed. Zhang Rongna believed that At present, the textile industry is experiencing the test of the times, and it is also a historic opportunity.