Depth Of A Pair Of Jeans To Save Themselves

　　 How much water does an adult drink a year?

About 1000 liters.

But producing a pair of jeans requires several times the amount of water.

The 2016 German documentary "the price of jeans" caused an uproar. In the eyes of people, high pollution, high emission and high density became the "original sin" of cowboy textile products. All enterprises involved in the production of cowboy were faced with the "moral trial" on the one hand. On the other hand, new exports should be found in the new orientation of technology, fashion and green in China's textile and garment industry.

The protection of the environment has become the industry consensus. In the trend of sustainable development of fashion, how can the cowboy manufacturing industry reclaim itself against the wind? In the CHIC2020 (spring), a group of related enterprises in the cowboy region of Shanghai international fashion exhibition tell the reporters the big words in the cowboy circle.

Fruit stain

Lighten the burden from the source

One of the three jeans sold worldwide is from Xintang, Guangzhou. With the reputation of "jeans capital" in China, the Xintang cowboy manufacturing industry is undoubtedly the biggest shock. Guangzhou Cheng Xuan Yi Garments Co., Ltd. has made jeans for sixteen years and experienced the tremendous changes from cowboy industry to subversion.

"Before 2017, cowboys' volatility mainly came from the adjustment of jeans to jeans, which was an internal influence. Since 2017, the government has focused on environmental protection, and our industrial chain has undergone tremendous changes. Guo Weijie, deputy general manager of Cheng Xuanyi, said. In 2017, like a watershed, under the external force of environmental protection and green oriented industry development, a large scale washing plant in Xintang moved to Yudu, Guangxi, Yulin and other places in Jiangxi. "Enterprises with annual capacity of more than one million pieces have almost disappeared."

After the relocation, the washing plant has invested a lot of money in preventing and treating high pollution. Some factories have built a polluted water treatment system with an area of ten mu. These factories that have reached the target of environmental assessment have mastered the lifeline of the cowboy manufacturers. Even if the investment is huge, this is the "labor pains" that the transformation must go through.

In addition to water washing, pre printing and dyeing is also the "worst hit area" in the cowboy manufacturing industry. Guo Weijie briefed reporters on the innovative products of several fabric manufacturing companies - fruit dye. "They dye their knits and dye them with apples and pomegranates. They work very well." She said that the output value of these new fabrics last year was very objective, though not much, but it provided a reference for the transformation of denim fabrics. "Cowboy processing technology still has some technical difficulties and can not be broken through, but solving the pollution problem from the root is the general trend."

At present, Xintang cowboy capacity has been cut by 60%, with low production capacity and high quality. Guo Weijie said that the product is more stringent on the control of the company, and the cost of energy saved will be invested in precision manufacturing. "Cowboys will not disappear and will not be banned. After two or three years, the new cowboy manufacturing industry will develop steadily."

Independent brand

Transformation of business mode

Faced with the "three high" problems in the cowboy manufacturing industry, Shunde District Foshan Yi Qi Garments Co., Ltd. should transform from ODM enterprises to apparel Brand Company, to give energy to products. "Although we do not worry about orders, we need to change the mode of operation in the big environment." General manager Xue Liujin said.

This "great environment" refers to the big wave of textile manufacturing industry transferring to Southeast Asia.

Italian Clothing Co., Ltd. accounted for more than half of foreign trade orders, Italy, Australia, the United States, South Africa, Russia and so on every year, a large number of orders are in urgent need of factory production. Some large brands that cooperate with the company will allocate production to Southeast Asian countries with low labor cost. In addition to solving the problem of pollution in the production process, we should also weigh the cost of production. Xue Liujin said: "before we were Made in China, in the age of big data as a cowboy industry, if we did not transform, then the cost of construction would be higher and higher."

In order to develop the company's own brand, the clothing changed from the conservative order to go out to order, through the exhibition to contact more customer information, and gradually changed from cowboy specialty to pan denim in product design. "Brand product design combines jeans and knitwear and weaving, and combines fashion trends to develop more fashionable jeans." Xue Liujin, for example, has a good market for lace, chiffon and cowboy. The company is designing and transforming more professional products to attract young consumers.

　 Practice hard

Culture is precipitated with vitality.

In addition to the "life and death test" in production, cowboys should also withstand the diversion of the consumer market.

Jeans were once a symbol of fashion in the eyes of the masses. They once became the standard for young people. But as the barriers between different cultures are broken, various styles of clothing appear in the public view, which squeezes the survival space of traditional cowboy clothing brands. How can jeans attract young consumers in the fierce market competition?

Shanghai Nanhe Garments Co., Ltd. has been working with the Cowboy brand at home and abroad since 2005. The company has provided design, research and development and bulk production for the brand. In more than 10 years' experience, Wang Yidan, general manager of Nanhe dress, has a deeper understanding of the cowboy.

"The development process of cowboy products is very different from other categories. Designers need to communicate with a factory to drive creativity." Wang Yidan said: "the emphasis is on the combination of fabric and water washing, and the control of version or detail is very important." It is the production characteristics of the cowboy that "a little difference, a thousand miles" determines that the jeans brand that can stand firmly in the market must concentrate, professionally and professionally.

To attract young consumers, Wang Yidan thinks jeans brands need to do two things: first, cater to the market and then lead the market. "It's easy for young people to cater to them simply, but not for a long time," he said. "This is why many brands are short-lived. The brand that lacks core value can not always cater for young consumers. It is extremely difficult to lead the market, but it is not impossible. Wang Yidan cited examples from the United States, Japan and Europe.

The United States is the hometown of cowboys. The brand is about the history of the cowboy's hometown. The Japanese brand is constantly making classic cowboy carving on the basis of American cowboys, and goes beyond the cowboy aboriginal culture with artisans' spirit. European brands interpret the fashionable cowboy, emphasizing the sense of superiority and adaptability. These three cowboy schools succeeded in leading the market by combing their brand mentality. Besides their own hardware conditions, the accumulation of time is essential. The precipitation of time is a necessary condition for becoming a classic Cowboy brand.

"Why hasn't Levi's changed since this version has no problems with its corresponding consumers? Many brand products lack the process of sedimentation. " Wang Yidan explained. The mobile version proves that the brand accurately grasps the data of consumers' body shape. This is the process of time precipitation.

For Chinese consumers, jeans are an exotic product, but its manufacturing, industrial transformation and transformation are closely related to the hearts of a group of apparel people. Even in such a difficult environment, many cowboy manufacturers still do not give up. In the upcoming CHIC2020 (spring exhibition), Shanghai international trend brand exhibition cowboy area, they start from social responsibility, production materials, environmental investment and other aspects to solve the pain point in the industry, and promote the green manufacturing transformation of the jeans industry.