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    Affected By The Pressure Of Italy'S Epidemic, Brands Have "Cloud Show".

    2020/3/4 10:30:00 13

    Yun Jie Xing

    Last Wednesday, Milan fashion week opened in a high-profile fashion and launched a China We Are With You (with China) at the same time. In view of the large number of Chinese audiences who are still in the blockade, the organizers of Italy Fashion Association and Tencent have broadcast live on all fashion shows. Tencent's online video shows 16 million of the more than 30 brands' fashion shows, and by the end of the week of fashion week, micro-blog's slogan for slogans has reached 8 million hits.

    In the autumn and winter fashion week of Milan in 2020, Jing Daily will focus on the analysis of more influential brands in the Chinese market. Prada, Giorgio Armani and many other brands launched the sustainable development initiative. They also supported China's fight against the new coronavirus, leaving a good impression on Chinese netizens. Due to the inconvenience of travel, many Chinese celebrities and net red are absent from this fashion week, while Gucci makes full use of the influence of the Korean wave and reacts very well on micro-blog. Dolce&Gabbana, after the November 2018 incident, there is still a long way to go to get the understanding of Chinese consumers.

       Jing Daily Milan fashion week rating scale includes the following dimensions:

    Model show: T appearance of Chinese models.

    Digital influence: users' acceptance and participation of brands on micro-blog, WeChat, Xiao Hong and other social platforms.

    KOL and celebrity exposure: evaluate the brand's star power through KOL and brand collaboration with celebrities.

    Brand special events: special activities designed by the brand for Chinese audiences. During the autumn and winter fashion week in New York in 2020, the brand's support for domestic anti epidemic work was also taken into consideration.

    Design background: combined with popular trends and market preferences, we evaluate the response of brand new design to Chinese consumers.

    Brand history: the history of brand in China, including overall influence, social influence, storefront quantity, profit trend and brand fault.

      PRADA

    Despite the absence of a large number of Chinese stars and net red, Prada still takes the lead in the Milan fashion week's score this season. Facing the challenge brought by the epidemic, the Italy luxury brand fully uses streaming media to communicate with Chinese audiences. In addition to the live webcast, Prada also used WeChat applet for the third time to show the show shape, T stage details and star backstage photos. Cai Xukun, the spokesman of the Chinese brand as the brand, has no chance to attend the fashion week. However, Prada invited the Korean women's group BLACKPINK member Lisa, which is also very good in China. The Korean wave singer is very popular in China. In two months, micro-blog's powder has reached 6 million. Instead of being able to attend, Cai Xukun attracted a lot of traffic - a gold suit model was heavily forwarded on micro-blog and little red books. In addition to inviting the dazzling stars, Prada's latest Linea Rossa series combines technology with sustainable development. The brand has been promoting environmental protection in the fashion circle for a long time, and has been well received by Chinese netizens. Meanwhile, last Sunday, Raf Simons announced that it will join Prada and cooperate with Miuccia Prada, which has also aroused heated debate in China. Prada Tmall flagship store began its trial operation on Monday, which is expected to offset the impact of offline retailing.

       BOTTEGA VENETA

    Kering group's Bottega Veneta, under the leadership of creative director Daniel Lee, has attracted the attention of fashion people in the past few seasons. Bottega's iconic bags and sandals sparked heated debate on Instagram, and Chinese fashion fads also pursued the craze of "new Bottega". The brand has also stepped up online marketing efforts in the fashion week, putting micro-blog's eye catching advertisements on its own, enabling users to seamlessly lead to brand websites. In addition, the addition of Korean actress Song Hye Kyo also weakened the influence of the absence of Chinese stars. She was dressed in black suit with the latest Bottega chain bag, and was praised by Chinese netizens. Some netizens commented that Song Hye Kyo displayed the brand image perfectly. Bottega Venata has made full use of its excellent marketing strategy and consistent aesthetic advantages, and will win the precious brand loyalty of Chinese consumers.

      GUCCI

    This year's T platform, Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele once again used his sword to take advantage of the beauty of the front left a deep impression on the audience. His inspiration comes from Retro dolls. The whole show is full of ritual. He adornment lace, lotus leaf and velvet on poplin jacket and pleated skirt as a decoration, showing a beautiful beauty of children. Gucci has rich experience in online marketing, and expands its influence by using multi platform strategy. Viewers in China can use the brand's WeChat applet for the first time to watch carefully designed walking pictures and details. In addition, the show was also broadcast live in micro-blog, with more than 8 million views and 64300 people participated. Similar to Prada and Bottega Veneta, Gucci also takes a look at the great influence of Korean wave in China. Korean artiste IU has commented on T show through micro-blog and WeChat, and IU fans Guistar has also responded positively. But there are voices on the Internet that want to see beyond the classic Michele innovation. Young people in China are looking forward to the new meaning of Gucci.

      MONCLER

    This season's Moncler Genius show continues to carry out innovative experiments, recruiting JW Anderson as a new Moncler Genius designer, working with Rimowa and Rick Owens. The eight Moncler Genius series showed the possibility of coexistence of functional and high-end fashion, overturning the audience's impression of down jacket. The T show is well received by Chinese netizens. WeChat has visited more than 43200 times, and #MonclerGenius has more than 500000 comments. WeChat user Lydie Li commented on the official push that "this show is like an immersive contemporary art exhibition at the Pompidou center". However, the enthusiastic response in Chinese social media is not achieved overnight. Since February 2nd, the brand has been warming up for this big day on micro-blog. Its WeChat public number has also launched a small program "Moncler House of Genius", pushing all series of highlights. In December last year, the brand opened a physical store in SKPS shopping center in Beijing, and launched a limited edition Moncler Genius series, hoping to attract young customers with refreshing shopping experience. Although the epidemic has brought unexpected challenges to the operation of Moncler online and offline, the brand will not hesitate to maintain the stickiness of Chinese consumers as long as it can keep mobility and make long-term preparations.

      GIORGIO ARMANI

    Despite the fact that the T show was held in a closed venue due to the outbreak in northern Italy, the famous Italy designer succeeded in causing concern. He used the highlight of this show to greet the Chinese and Chinese people, showing 12 Chinese inspired models from the Giorgio Armani Priv 2009 and 2019 spring dress series, and selected 12 Chinese models to show this series of costumes. Speaking of China, Mr. Armani said he had always appreciated Chinese aesthetics and culture very much. Fashion media scrambled to report the positive energy message he delivered, and he also received many red dot forwarding points. Such a move helps to enhance the emotional connection between designers and Chinese consumers. Although some fashion critics criticize the autumn series for their lack of novelty, their overall evaluation is positive because of their close attention to China's current situation.

      FENDI

    Chinese netizens are impressed by the brand's soft power theme, but more attention is focused on Fendi's new handbag. A commentary under its WeChat public address said: "the Peekaboo series really surprises me every year!" without the presence of Chinese stars, Fendi's online marketing made a commendable effort to invite many Chinese celebrities to publicize, including bloggers @yuyuzhangzou, former fashion editor @ Jiangnan boynam, Taiwan net red Molly. Chiang, and Korean actress Leslie Kim, they have about 11 million fans on micro-blog and Instagram. In addition, Fendi also commissioned @JiWeiJW, a fashion illustrator, to draw illustrations for several T fashion designs. Subsequently, the illustration was used as the theme photo of its WeChat public address and micro-blog account. Although this special cooperation has gained hundreds of points in micro-blog, it fully demonstrates the diversification of the brand's marketing strategy in the current situation.

      TOD 'S

    Tod 's's new creative director Walter Chiapponi's first series is supposed to be an important moment for the brand. However, Chinese media failed to get the series of men's and women's clothing designed by Chiapponi. Tod 's chose Liu Haoran as the new brand ambassador. It was a great response. As of press release, the topic #Tod' s brand ambassador Liu Haoran already had 15 million of the reading volume. The limelight completely overshadowed Tod's s2020 autumn T debut. At the same time, Tod's pushed two WeChat public articles with 25 thousand hits. Unfortunately, there was a lack of participation. The brand is sure to win the Chinese market. It has announced that it will cooperate with Jiang Shu Ying and Tong Dawei. In addition, the brand has also expanded its influence with many Bags bloggers, who have many fans. Tod's's influence in China is still to be developed, but it can be expected in the future.

       SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

    Although the new creative director, Paul Andrew, has only been at the helm for a year, thanks to his experience in the brand women's clothing department, this autumn fashion week has fully demonstrated his understanding of modern women's demands. The overall form of T, from trousers to skirts to the bold use of leather, plus the nude makeup of models, fully conforms to the independent modern Chinese women's image. The show also invited famous models Doutzen Kroes and Irina Shayk. They haven't appeared in Chinese social media for a long time, so they were warmly welcomed.

       MAX MARA

    As the pronoun of Chinese consumers' camel overcoat, the Max Mara fashion week's display is very consistent with the impression of Chinese consumers: unpleasant. The three WeChat public number released by the brand has gained 37000 of the reading volume. On micro-blog, netizens praised this season's low-key color, calling it the beauty of nature. Although there are only two Chinese models in the 48 models, the use of Kaia Gerber to open up shows is still a good response in China's social platform. However, if you search for brand related articles, the hottest articles will still be "camel overcoat". Can there be any new breakthroughs in Max Mara?

      DOLCE&GABBANA

    Whether it's T or social media, Dolce&Gabbana's 2020 autumn show is not well received in China. This season, it is trying to show Italy handicraft, and also released a scarf picture on micro-blog to pay tribute to traditional Chinese culture. However, most of the comments of micro-blog are attacking this Italy fashion company. Apparently, Chinese consumers have not forgotten the events of 2018. The brand is also trying to make up for it. After the outbreak of the new crown, it donated money to a private university in Italy to study the virus, but neither the public nor the Chinese fashion community responded. The brand does not carry out any online marketing in China, nor does any famous net red or Chinese model participate in its T stage show. In 2018, the brand advertisement was exposed to insult to China. Its co founder, Stefano Gabbana, sent discriminatory information on Instagram. After that, the brand Shanghai fashion show was canceled. 320 models and more than 40 stars, net Hong, who had planned to attend, boycotted the brand or were unhappy because of the cancellation of the activity. The absence of celebrities may be due to the epidemic, but it may not come back in the future.

       London Fashion Week ranking: playing with "double micro", and which brand is not on the train?

    BURBERRY has shown great performance, while Simone Rocha and JW Anderson have gained more attention through the organic exposure of social media. Maison Margiela's sub line MM6 has strong momentum, while Roland Mouret still has much room to play in the Chinese market.

       New York fashion week's list: the V who can't come to fame, the Chinese audience who can't reach it.

    Carolina Herrera, which has been widely praised in social media, and Coach, which has just slowed down from last season's T-shirt storm. However, the absence of brands such as Ralph Lauren, TomFord and 3.1 Phillip Lim made the fashion week less brand attacking the Chinese market.

    Source: JingDaily Jing Tian media writer: Jiang Yaling, Wu Wenzhuo

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