domestic men's wear Brands are ushering in a "good era" 。 On the one hand, the online purchasing power of male consumers is increasing. According to the "Taobao live male consumer advertising" released by Taobao live on map, from 2018 to 2020, the number of male consumers in the live broadcasting room has skyrocketed, with a year-on-year growth of 205.4% in 2020, far higher than that of women by 111.1%. On the other hand, the recent "Xinjiang cotton incident" accelerated the decline in the market reputation of Nike ADI, these overseas brands. Those neglected domestic men's wear brands have finally had a chance to regain their confidence.
However, along with the times, there are also consumer groups. In the face of more diversified and younger demand, how should the traditional men's wear brands represented by Youngor, Shanshan and Hongdou respond? Under the background of Nike ADI's sports and leisure style, can these traditional men's wear brands, which start from business style, really keep up with young people?
? From business to leisure, men's wear made in China has been surging for 40 years Around the 1980s, men's wear brands with business suits as the main business suit have sprung up like mushrooms. Youngor, founded in 1979, Shanshan, which was founded in 1980, and Hongdou, which was renamed in 1983, were all born at that time. Coincidentally, in almost the same period of time, Nike has also entered the Chinese market. In 1980, Nike officially established its Nike production base in Beijing. However, at that time, Nike did not stir up a big splash in the Chinese market. The reason is simple, not mainstream.
After the reform and opening up, the Western clothing represented by the suit has poured into the Chinese market, and * * was the first to wear the suit. Leaders at all levels also fell in love with wearing suits. People who adhere to the principle of "integrating with international fashion and learning leaders' dressing style" naturally began to catch up with the "suit trend"“ "Wear a suit and tie" became a fashion at that time. It is under this trend that traditional men's wear brands have entered a period of rapid development. In 1996, Shanshan became the first listed company in China's clothing industry. Subsequently, in 1998 and 2001, Youngor and Hongdou were listed on the Shanghai Stock Exchange.
However, around 2003, the trend of men's wear market began to have a small change, fashion and trend has become the new pursuit of the public in the clothing style. The reason is also very simple. The mainstream has changed. In 2003, Jay Chou appeared on the cover of time magazine as "the new king of Asian pop music". His unique style of dressing became the "new fashion" pursued by the young people at that time. After the change of people's "idols", business dress, which was highly sought after in the past, gradually "fell into the altar" and had to compete with leisure sportswear. In the past, the single men's wear category dominated by business dress has gradually evolved into business dress, business leisure, fashion leisure and outdoor sports
The rapid rise of sports brands has accelerated the transformation of men's fashion from business to leisure. In 2012, the clothing industry encountered inventory crisis, almost all men's wear brands were hit hard. But not long after, with the help of "stir fried shoes", sports brands represented by Nike ADI took advantage of the situation and became the new "fashion code" for young people. The change of market share can well illustrate this point. According to the data collated by "China industry information network", after the inventory crisis in 2012, the market share of sports and business men's wear has declined. In the following years, although the market share of men's business wear slowly recovered, it was obviously difficult to compete with the faster sports men's wear. In 2018, the market share of men's sports wear will catch up with and surpass. ? Of course, the greater impact comes from the fast fashion brands represented by UNIQLO.
According to Mantis finance, UNIQLO opened its first store in China in 2002. In 2006 and 2007, Zara and HM entered the Chinese market successively. In 2009, UNIQLO entered the tmall flagship store, taking the lead in e-commerce.
Compared with the traditional clothing brands, the fast fashion brands represented by UNIQLO are more focused on leisure and youth, meeting the clothing needs of the new generation of users. At the same time, they have found a balance between business and leisure, and their product line has been further extended, covering almost the entire age range from teenagers to middle-aged people.
In this way, the fast fashion brands with the price close to the people and the rich categories quickly became popular in the Chinese market. Since 2015, UNIQLO and other fast fashion brands began to appear frequently in the top of tmall's double 11 sales list. The traditional clothing brands, not only failed to follow up e-commerce in time, but also the business of offline stores was gradually cold and empty. ? Looking back on the past 40 years, the traditional men's wear brands represented by business formal wear have experienced a "rough" fate from "leading" to "falling behind". In addition to the specific factors of the times, the more important thing is that they failed to keep up with the fashion pace of the younger generation.
Therefore, "younger" has become the "lifesaving straw" of these brands in the new era. How can the "old" brands trapped in the process of "rejuvenation" attract young people? "Old" brands first gave a highly similar answer - to create sub brands. In 2010, Youngor made its debut in the men's wear exhibition hall with its fashion brand Gy. Gy integrates more fashion elements and creates a brand-new clothing style of "cool, modern and full of design sense". Subsequently, in 2015, Shanshan, a fast fashion brand under Shanshan, also officially appeared, claiming to be young, fashionable and with high frequency of clothing change as its positioning. At the same time, in order to more comprehensively reverse the market and the public's impression that "the brand is not fashionable enough", the brands also "exchange blood" on the spokesperson. In 2017, Shanshan signed with Deng Chao as a new spokesman. In 2018, red bean signed with Wu Jing as a new image ambassador. In 2020, Youngor will also replace his former spokesman Fei Xiang with a new generation of idol star Xiong Ziqi. Of course, specific to a deeper level of strategy, different brands in the focus is still slightly different. Youngor focuses on the digital upgrading of the brand.
In terms of stores, Youngor fashion experience hall, which will appear in 2019, not only integrates new technologies such as 5g intelligent shopping guide robot and 3D volume measurement, but also introduces a series of new consumer "cross-border" products represented by "Ruixing coffee", trying to create a new brand impression of "sense of Technology + light business". At the technical level, Youngor established "smart middle platform" in 2019, officially opening up online and offline channels. With the help of smart media, the efficiency of store member data analysis and sales analysis has been greatly improved.
Red beans increased the marketing of the impression of "light fashion" brand. In terms of design, red bean signed a joint contract with Fabio del Bianco, a famous European designer, which promoted the design innovation of red bean men's wear from the source. At the communication level, in order to further deepen the impression of "light fashion" style of the brand, in 2019, red bean men's wear went abroad and held a fashion show in Milan, Italy, in response to the call of "Youth".
Shanshan is to strengthen the "classic + fashion" brand positioning. In 2018, Shanshan clothing broke away from the main brand and was listed on the Hong Kong stock exchange. After the listing, Shanshan clothing upgraded its two main brands, firs and Shanshan, and improved its capabilities from supply chain, logistics to inventory management. Firs continues to "carry" the banner of Shanshan in the field of business formal wear, while Shanshan continues to benchmark fast fashion brands such as UNIQLO, and starts to make efforts to the second and third tier cities with efficient and large area stores as the standard. However, after the slogan of "rejuvenation" was passed, the result was not satisfactory“ Mantis finance "believes that this can be seen from the vitality of sub brands and their contribution to the brand clothing business. According to the data, Gy brand closed 95 stores in 2018, leaving only one direct store. In 2018, Shanshan contributed 50.9% of the sales, but it did not change the dilemma of "increasing revenue but not increasing profit" faced by Cunninghamia lanceolata at that time. Although its revenue reached 1.025 billion yuan, its net value was only 36.2104 million yuan. Obviously, like the old brands in other fields, even though they have accumulated rich market experience, traditional clothing brands are still in the "groping stage" on the road of "Youth". ?
How many hurdles do traditional men's wear brands have to overcome to catch young people? In the long run, "mantis finance" believes that traditional men's clothing brands need to make continuous efforts from the following aspects in order to really capture young people. First of all, On the premise of ensuring quality, we will continue to increase investment in R & D and design. For the old brands, the word-of-mouth accumulated by product quality in the past has not been shaken. What they need to solve is actually how to reverse the current "old style" brand image. To achieve this goal, innovation in product design level is essential. At present, the new generation of young people represented by generation Z has gradually grown into the main consumption force. At the design level, they pay more attention to originality“ Generation Z prefers independent designer brands, including some online stores and original designer works, compared with consumers of other ages. Therefore, for these traditional men's wear brands, not only need to further enhance the proportion of product design and development, but also need to find the fashion style suitable for the brand as soon as possible under the guidance of the company's concept, so as to have more opportunities to stand out from a large number of brands and occupy the minds of young consumers.
Secondly, Marketing methods need to be synchronized with "younger", so that the brand can really achieve dialogue with young people. For traditional clothing brands, the accumulated experience in channel and store operation in the past can be used in the new era. Compared with those "online Red brands" growing up in the new consumption era, they are more poor in marketing. In the past, with television and newspapers as the main marketing media, it is not difficult for traditional clothing brands to expand their brand volume. As long as they are willing to "spend money", they can let the national audience remember you. But it is clear that this tactic is no longer applicable in the new era. With the rise of new social platforms such as microblog, shuoyin and xiaohongshu, brand marketing has more choices. Last year, Youngor and red bean men's wear began to "test water" live with goods, but this is far from enough. How to further reach the young people from the publicity copy, communication channels and other aspects is the topic that brands still need to focus on in the next. At present, whether it is red beans, fir, or Youngor, they have been on the road of diversification. The "dependence" on sidelines has not yet been cast off, and the "new rivals" represented by UNIQLO are accelerating their rise. Men's wear industry a new round of seesaw war has begun, this time, who will be faster to highlight the encirclement?
