Culture First: The "Industry Code" For The Upgrading And Development Of Garment Industry
Since ancient times, China has been known as "the country in clothing and etiquette", and its cultural attribute is rooted in the blood of clothing industry. Under the new development pattern, the clothing industry is ushering in an important period of transformation and upgrading. The cultural soft power represented by intangible cultural heritage has begun to penetrate into the industry and seek new industrial development space through innovation and activation. At the same time, with the outbreak of national fashion clothing in the past two years, the empowerment effect of culture on clothing industry has become increasingly prominent.
Transformation and upgrading
Guangdong is the leading province of China's clothing industry and the main force of clothing export. The "14th five year plan" development plan of Guangdong clothing industry released in April pointed out that the value and cultural connotation as the main entry point to improve the core competitiveness of the brand is regarded as promoting the Guangdong clothing industry to become the core hub of global clothing supply chain coordination, the hotbed for the incubation and growth of China's new generation of fashion brands, product innovation, technological innovation and One of the ways to construct the center of model innovation. In March this year, a "Splendid China - 2021 Chinese Intangible Cultural Heritage clothing show" was staged in Sanya. The combination of Li brocade with hand dyed xiangyunshalangsi and woolen cotton and hemp shows skillfully the craftsmanship of traditional crafts and the fantastic ideas of creative design, and vividly shows the yesterday, today and tomorrow of Lijin. As a project leader, Li Wei, Professor, School of fine arts, Tsinghua University That is to say, the landing of intangible cultural heritage clothing is to make it life-like, so that people can buy and wear easily. "The creation focuses on the tomorrow of Li brocade clothing. On the one hand, it breaks through the limitation of time in creativity. On the other hand, it uses the visual impact and identification of patterns to spread the totem symbols of Li nationality. Let the national culture integrate into the international fashion. " Not long ago, Beijing Jinggong Garment Group Co., Ltd. signed a strategic cooperation agreement with Beijing Institute of light industry technicians. The two sides will try to integrate the "Eight Wonders of Yanjing" into the clothing, cultural and creative products, so as to make the traditional intangible cultural heritage full of vitality. Compared with the past, the integration dimensions of intangible cultural heritage and clothing industry are more and more extensive and diversified. In Rong Shuqin's opinion, the intangible cultural heritage resources in China contain rich cultural genes. In the future, the living protection of intangible cultural heritage and the exploration of cultural genes will become the brightest identity mark of traditional and contemporary China. And the current "Hanfu fever" is also from the side It reflects that under the background of the whole social and cultural self-confidence and consumption upgrading, Chinese traditional culture is getting more and more attention, and oriental aesthetics is returning. According to relevant statistics, in 2021, the number of Hanfu enthusiasts is expected to reach 6.894 million, and the market sales scale will reach 10.1 billion yuan. stay Yang Yongzhong, Professor of creative management, Sichuan University It seems that the emergence of "Hanfu fever" is not accidental. On the one hand, this is the endogenous demand of personal consumption upgrading in the era of creative economy, on the other hand, the remarkable return of Han clothing is because the consumption of traditional Chinese cultural lifestyle has become the resonance of the times. In addition, cross border co branding is in the ascendant. The 2020 global fashion IP white paper points out that with the continuous growth of China's fashion consumption and the vigorous development of the IP industry, the online fashion IP industry opened by means of Brand Co branding and IP authorization has developed rapidly, and the number of consumers and consumption amount have increased rapidly. Keep to the right and innovate
In 2020, Li Ning × The joint name series of the Palace Museum and Baoyun building was officially released, including hoodies, T-Shirts, shoes and other items. The hand in hand of the two major national IP addresses the young generation's consumption preference for the national trend, which is not only the innovation of supply, but also the change of concept. Before and after that, the "Huamulan cooperation series" of taipingniao, the "Shaolin series" of Tebu, the "oriental characteristics" of life on the left, and the T-shirts of lucky animals and auspicious capsules of seven wolves were put on one after another These clothing brands pay more and more attention to the integration of Chinese cultural elements and national spirit in product design, including the transmission of good moral, the expression of personality, the implantation of Chinese culture, etc. A few days ago, the "report on consumption trend of new Chinese goods 618" shows that more and more shopping carts of consumers are being "contracted" by new domestic products in this year's "618", and new domestic products have become the leading role of new consumption. Take Li Ning as an example, its sales in the first half of 2021 are six times that of the same period in 2020. This further shows that for the younger generation, the new Chinese products with rich traditional cultural elements and more in line with the consumption characteristics and psychological habits have become their "social symbols". Consumers have gone from pursuing foreign brands to setting off "national trend aesthetics". To some extent, the rise of this cultural fashion means that cultural creative design has become an important driving force for the current industrial upgrading. As early as 2014, the State Council issued a number of opinions on promoting the integration and development of cultural creativity and design services with related industries. In terms of "shaping new advantages of the manufacturing industry", it clearly pointed out that "focusing on brand building and quality improvement, we should promote daily necessities, ceremonial and leisure products, household appliances, clothing, household appliances, digital products, food, etc Cultural and sports goods and other consumer goods industries should shift to innovation and creation, increase diversified supply and guide consumption upgrading. " The "14th five year" cultural industry development plan released in June this year also clearly mentioned that "we should improve the cultural connotation and design level of consumer goods such as daily necessities, household appliances, electronic products, clothing, sports goods, etc., increase diversified supply and guide consumption to upgrade." It is reported that in order to promote the supply side structural reform of the textile industry, and strengthen the construction of textile and clothing creative design capacity and independent brand construction, the Ministry of industry and information technology has successively announced five batches of textile and garment creative pilot parks (platforms) since 2017. Six years ago, Chinese designer Lawrence Xu surprised people with a set of Dunhuang works at the Paris fashion week; This year, inspired by Sanxingdui culture, Wu Haiyan, Wang Mijia, Zhang Mengyun and other designers have integrated the romance and extraordinary imagination of ancient Shu people into costume design, conveying the innovative fusion of Oriental Aesthetics and fashion art. From Dunhuang, to the Forbidden City, to Sanxingdui, the Millennium culture is becoming the popular code of Guochao and Guofeng“ Traditional costume art is rich in modeling, gorgeous colors, dyeing, weaving, embroidery and painting and other decorative skills are colorful, which is a powerful gene bank of modern design Wu qiongfang of Dunhuang research institute once talked about it in the second "Chinese clothing" teaching and academic seminar in 2021. At 16:00 p.m. on June 22, in a live broadcast room of a Hanfu brand, 33830 people watched online, and 61 items were on sale. While the anchor promoted and displayed the products, the enthusiasm of the onlookers was rising; Last year, Chen Yan, a girl born in 1995, has gone up by 10 million because of her ancient costume videos, and the sales volume of shaking tone live broadcasting with the list once exceeded 3 million... These true portraits reflect that with the rise of short video and live broadcasting, the clothing industry is gradually jumping out of the traditional marketing mode, seizing the opportunity in the field of social media promotion, and reshaping the new connection mode between the industry and the market. At the beginning of 2020, affected by the new crown pneumonia epidemic, the business of physical stores was frustrated, and garment enterprises successively opened up online markets by means of private domain, live broadcast and short video《 Clothing retail industry insight report points out that after one year's precipitation, businesses have become more rational when making decisions on live delivery of goods. Many clothing businesses pull the number of users and increase the transaction volume through private live broadcasting. Fast hand, wechat, Alipay, microblog and other platforms have become the marketing tools of clothing businesses. In the same way, many brands regard co branding cooperation as an important marketing opportunity, which can not only increase the stickiness of fans and accelerate the brand growth, but also help to enhance their intrinsic brand value and cultural value. For example, more than thirteen brands of Hanfu have started to try joint branding since 2018, and have successively cooperated with well-known mobile games, film and TV series qingpingle and Dance Tang Palace Banquet, Relying on breaking the circle frequently with the major IP. As the basic consumer goods industry and people's livelihood industry to create a better and fashionable life, when the cultural significance of the clothing industry itself is more and more strong, in terms of brand culture construction, it also pays more attention to leading lifestyle with brand. Nowadays, the aesthetic living space with "culture + clothing + X" as its content element has begun to blossom everywhere: in April this year, the first store of exceptional Fangsuo integrated new form entered Shanghai Shangjia center, and in June, the non heritage aesthetic space of he'an · Rongyi national style Museum, which focuses on the inheritance, protection and innovation of intangible cultural heritage, appeared in Harbin Art space and other forms of business, to build a cultural space of life scene, attract many shopping malls tourists to come to spend time card.
"2020 China Textile and clothing brand development report" points out that At the same time, with the continuous improvement of consumers' recognition of local brands, textile and clothing brands have more and more diversified application forms of Chinese culture in product design, marketing mode, brand culture construction, etc., and enhancing cultural confidence has become an important hand in stabilizing the domestic market. In the future, in terms of strengthening and improving the brand construction, it is particularly important to further enhance the self owned brand's ability to inherit excellent culture and beautify life, to play the important role of terminal consumer brand in leading fashion consumption and life, and to play the leading role of Chinese excellent culture in fashion consumption and domestic and international influence. as Chen Dapeng, vice president of China Textile Industry Federation and President of China Garment Association According to the article "fashion power to build a powerful clothing country", China's clothing industry is constantly innovating in the multi-cultural integration, committed to building a cultural value system based on Chinese culture as the core connotation, and creating the most fundamental fashion power for the construction of a clothing power.
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