Weave Pulu'S "International Dream", And "Shanghai Craftsmen" Incarnate As Industry Helpers For Tibet

In the middle of May, people visiting the "First Commercial Street in China" Nanjing East Road Pedestrian Street in Shanghai may see this unique scene: Tibetan women in traditional costumes are sitting in front of Pulu machines, quietly weaving Pulu.

Pulu is a kind of wool fabric with Tibetan characteristics, also called Tibetan woolen cloth. Its weaving technology has a long history and is a necessity in the daily life of Tibetan people.

The Pulu under production is different: the warp threads made of primary yak hair are interwoven with cashmere weft threads in the colors of primrose yellow, navy blue, forget me not blue, and so on, which are closely knit into complex and exquisite patterns.

On May 12, in the pedestrian street of Nanjing East Road in Shanghai, Tibetan women in traditional costumes sat in front of a Pulu machine to weave Pulu. Photographed by Li Shuzheng, a reporter from China News Agency

"This is a new pattern we learned when we came to Shanghai!" Bian Ba Pianduo, the director of the Pianduo Pulu Processing Farmers Professional Cooperative in Gyantse County, Shigatse City, happily turned up a corner of Pulu to show the reporters: "Look! This pattern is still double-sided!"

On the booth on the other side, there are shawls, scarves, blankets, etc. made of Pulu. "It feels waxy and soft", "The scarf is beautiful in color, and it is also easy to wear clothes"... Shanghai people who came to participate in the "Five Five Year" Consumption Exhibition in Shigatse City and five counties "cast curious and appreciative eyes on Pulu products, and couldn't help reaching out to touch them.

On May 12, Pulu products were exhibited at the "Five Five Year" Consumption Exhibition in Shigatse City and five counties. Photographed by Li Shuzheng, a reporter from China News Agency

From traditional Tibetan daily necessities to high-end textile products widely loved by consumers, Pulu's gorgeous "debut" on Nanjing East Road is inseparable from "Shanghai Craftsman" Guo Xiuling.

Guo Xiuling won the title of "Shanghai Craftsman" in 2019. In 2002, Guo Xiuling returned from Germany and built a cashmere factory in Jinshan, Shanghai. Many world famous brands came to her and asked her to develop the design into commodity for mass production. These cashmere products produced in Shanghai Jinshan have become popular luxuries after being labeled with big brands.

In 2012, Guo Xiuling took the initiative to stop the factory's OEM business and created her own brand - Sandriver. After more than ten years of hard work, Sha Juan has owned stores in more than ten countries and regions, and has participated in Paris Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Home Design Exhibition for many times. The famous high-end department store in Paris has actively invited to set up a display cabinet in its venue.

Nine color deer and caisson patterns on the murals of Mogao Grottoes; The cute little pigs described by Jinshan farmer painters... These were once found in cashmere products in Sha Juan. "The more national, the more global," Guo Xiuling said.

When "Shanghai Craftsman" incarnated as a supporter of Tibet industry, Guo Xiuling focused on the Pulu handicrafts.

"Pulu craftsmanship has a long history. Pulu weaving is also an important source of income for local people, especially women." Guo Xiuling said, however, most of the traditional design of Pulu craftsmanship is only suitable for local consumption, and it is difficult to open a broader market; Simple spinning frame manual operation, the output is relatively low. "Under multiple challenges, some family workshops are difficult to sustain, and some Pulu skills are also facing the risk of loss."

In the past three years, this "Shanghai craftsman" has repeatedly gone deep into the snow covered plateau: visiting rural workshops and family workshops, helping local craftsmen sort out their own crafts, and excavating the highlights of Pulu crafts; Communicate and learn from local rural cooperatives and carpet factories.

Guo Xiuling also set up Pulu R&D Center in Shanghai: invited textile fiber experts and textile machinery experts to jointly research, develop and innovate Pulu materials and "upgrade" Pulu machines; Gather global designers to design Pulu products with Tibetan characteristics and diversified aesthetics; Many Tibetan Pulu craftsmen were invited to visit the R&D center to learn new techniques and design patterns. Bianba Pianduo and her mother are the latest "guests" of the R&D center.

The mother of Bianba Pianduo has been weaving traditional pulu for 44 years. At this time, the Tibetan woman sat beside the "upgraded" Pulu machine and smiled happily. "This (machine) is easy to use and not tiring," another Tibetan elder sister said while spinning.

In Guo Xiuling's opinion, counterpart support is always "two-way". "There are too many 'good things' from all ethnic groups. We should always respect, revere and appreciate them. In exchange and cooperation, let good things work together to make things better."

The loom creaks and creaks, and a long Pulu stretches to the wider world. "In September this year, I will take my Tibetan mother and sister to Paris to show the Pulu art to the world," Guo Xiuling said.