Eastern Textile "Out Of The Circle" Reengineering Process "New"

Patterns presented by plain, twill and satin weave

Environmental protection aesthetic work Emotional Texture

The deconstructed traditional fabric Adelaide silk has rich colors and patterns.

Sustainable plastic recycling experimental fabric style.

"Solitary" three-dimensional fluff handicraft

"Is this garment material renewable?" "Is this handmade crop the only one?" Recently, young consumers are constantly expressing their love for environmental aesthetics in the fashion consumer market. The reporter noticed that sustainable fashion and Chinese aesthetics have also become the highlights of this year's fashion show. For example, the Chinese style appeared at China International Fashion Week in spring and summer 2023 and the medieval street style of Paris Fashion Week in spring and summer 2023. Among them, the sustainable recycling process is more "hot" in traditional textiles, including the disassembly and reconstruction of multi material fusion fabrics, and the "one cut" T-shirt advocating zero waste. Lang Qing, an associate professor of the China Academy of Fine Arts, said that the research direction of deconstruction weaving is in line with the current design trend. It can not only preserve the systematic fabric research results for the industry, but also provide a thinking path for the integration and development of Chinese traditional fabric technology and modern fashion, which is also of great practical inspiration to young design forces.

Trends

Traditional textile "regeneration process"

In April, Hangzhou, the lobby of Rong Design Library in suburban Qingshan Village displayed a chair that won the only award of Salone Satellite Design Report Award in 2012 Milan International Design Week. "Its name is Gone with the Wind, and it is made of more than 200 pieces of rice paper for making oil paper umbrellas." Zhang Lei, the founder of Rong Design Library, said that deconstructing traditional handicrafts is one of the very important means in enabling modern design, "The core collection of the museum is the handicraft materials and skills from all over the country. Here they can be carefully classified, preserved, deconstructed, and opened to independent designers free of charge for them to draw inspiration from Chinese traditional culture." He said.

The reporter noticed that the research results of Rong Design Library 2023 also included the weaving process in the traditional textile industry, showing the highly creative weaving mechanism, and the resultant products of unity and complexity reconstruction. "It never occurred to me that there are so many avant-garde elements hidden in the traditional needle and thread," Xiao Tan, a visitor from Shanghai, told reporters while visiting the library.

The reporter learned that in the process of Rong Design Library's search for the source of traditional fabrics, Jiangnan Cloth Garment and Rong Design Library jointly launched a five-year project of "making the best use of cloth" in 2022 to systematically record, sort out, study and summarize traditional fabrics and process details.

Zheng Dandan, general manager of public relations of Jiangnan cloth clothing enterprises, told reporters that this project is to start from the material of "fabric", excavate various process details in traditional handicrafts, and deconstruct the possibilities of fabric to the fullest through the creative process of manufacturing, reconstruction and transformation, so as to finally achieve "the best use of fabric".

"The popularity of oriental aesthetics is the trend of this year, which reflects the essence of Chinese traditional culture." Zheng Dandan said that the consumer groups who are mainly "post-90s" and "post-00s" aspire to a slow life of "simple nature, traditional simplicity, elegance and calm", and the traditional handicrafts and fabrics that condense the traditional wisdom of the East and take the nature from them have become the favorite objects, They express their life attitude and emotional belonging.

In May, Guangzhou, located in the south glass box space on the L3 floor of Taikoo Hui, just opened an exhibition to explore sustainable "beauty" in life. Can the waste in people's life be reshaped into art? Can a seemingly useless old thing have a second life? In this limited time space created jointly with Shanghai Fashion Week and can U sustainable fashion platform, the art attempt of recycling and reproduction of traditional technology reveals fresh answers.

Xiao Chen, a senior in the design department, stood in front of the work Xiabu Curtains by Yi Hongbo, a handmade fabric artist, and told reporters that the traditional way of making things is full of a profound sense of history and cultural temperature, "From disassembly, patchwork, sewing to reconstruction, I think the process itself is very cool and full of modern independent aesthetics. Deconstruction and reconstruction are new and popular, not only environmentally friendly but also avant-garde." Liu Zhishu, consultant of WGSN, a trend forecasting agency, said, "China's new generation of consumers have begun to learn to appreciate the profound meaning of oriental aesthetics." The brand wants to attract the current and future main consumer groups, We must learn to integrate traditional skills, cultural essence, Zen aesthetics and natural elements into modern products, spaces, appliances and lifestyles.

Uncover the secret of "regeneration process"

These inspirations come from the traditional "regeneration process". How can we show its "power" on the fabric? The reporter revealed the secrets of regeneration process design with three typical examples.

Pattern texture: extract structure and color, and re create with creativity

A weaving thread can complete countless patterns, such as plain, twill, satin, joint or complex forms, through simple or complex cross configurations. The different interlacing ways between the warp and weft lines in the combination bring a variety of fabric textures and patterns. The above two points are treasures hidden in a seemingly plain cloth.

Silk and Dunhuang, a work by students majoring in dyeing and weaving design from China Academy of Fine Arts, is one of the finished products of this kind of deconstruction and regeneration process. The reporter learned that this is a creation inspired by the traditional fabric Adeles silk. The retro rich color pattern presents a hazy beauty, which is expressed as a concrete geometric pattern, honeysuckle pattern, and caisson pattern. The combination of bright colors such as crimson, azure, and stone green presents the beauty of the classical East under the bright visual effect. Lang Qing, the dean and associate professor of the Department of Dyeing, Weaving and Clothing of the School of Design and Art of the Chinese Academy of Fine Arts, told the reporter that the interesting thing about this design is that it naturally weakens the original "domineering" and bright and beautiful feeling of traditional cloth with a "hazy effect" that is more in line with modern aesthetics. It is less heavy, more artistic, and can be better applied to daily wear scenes.

Material test: Combine woven yarn with plastic to achieve sustainable recycling

This is from the perspective of "diversified exploration of fabrics", focusing on the integration test of different environmental protection materials. You must have the question, "Isn't it just recycling through technology?" No, this is purely from the perspective of structural reengineering of design elements. For example, Emotional Texture, a work by students majoring in dyeing and weaving design at China Academy of Fine Arts.

Designers break the usual blue-green tone of environment-friendly materials, and instead focus on the passionate red tone. This is a work that expresses the emotional texture of the fast-paced era. Lang Qing told the reporter that at first glance, it looks like the sea is billowing, but when you look closely, it is delicate and multi-layer. The pure yarn is kneaded into rich forms with different materials, and the touch is warm and the texture is full. "Sustainable design can go in a more fashionable direction, and the texture under the pattern can be achieved through the experimental integration of more materials," said Lang Qing.

Cutting application: one piece of cloth is used to the extreme, and there is no waste of ready to wear

According to the statistics of China Circular Economy Association, about 26 million tons of old clothes are discarded every year in China, with an average of 3-5 pieces thrown away per person every year. Among them, more than 90% of the waste clothing is directly buried or incinerated, resulting in a great waste of resources and environmental problems. The application of cutting in the recycling process is to explore how to reasonably use every inch of fabric to make the best use of cloth.

In the workshop of "China Time honored Brand" in Guangzhou textile industry, which benefits workers, the reporter also found a unique craft that has been passed down for a long time. It is reported that this is also one of the secrets that can be passed down as a century old brand: white sweaters, with shoulder bone lines removed, are cut with a piece of cloth, smooth without binding meat, and reduce the burden on the shoulders. With the change of the times, from the traditional white T-shirt as underwear, it has become a fashionable versatile single white T-shirt.

Industry observation

Reuse of surplus fabrics can achieve innovative waste reduction

Since this year, Guangdong has issued a number of documents to promote the high-quality development of the textile and clothing industry, proposing that by the end of 2025, the revenue of the textile and clothing industry should reach 700 billion yuan, and build Guangdong into a world-class advanced textile and clothing industry province. Different from the previous expression of "industrial transformation", this year's emphasis has shifted from "transformation" to "upgrading". The industry believes that focusing on the transformation and upgrading of traditional industries in recent years is actually a re examination of the importance of traditional industries, which means that higher requirements are put forward for upgrading the industrial chain, products, processes and functions of traditional industries.

In fact, sustainable fashion lies not only in consumer side measures such as reducing packaging waste and recycling old clothes, but also in the sustainable development of the whole industrial chain, especially in the production side, such as the use of sustainable raw materials, production and transportation. The reporter noticed that when "renewable technology" actively creates a new generation of environmental aesthetics, the production chain behind the industry also needs to be upgraded synchronously.

In May, SHEIN announced the establishment of a partnership with Queen of Raw, a sustainable fashion enterprise, to reduce the use of raw materials and the consumption of new fabrics by purchasing surplus stock fabrics from other clothing brands for reuse, so as to become a global leader in the field of recycling. Xiyin has traced millions of yards of unused second-hand fabrics that meet the purchase standards, which makes it possible to reduce the waste of raw materials in future production.

The 2023 Circular Fashion Industry Trend Report shows that the new generation of consumer groups that support environmental protection, love public welfare and have a sense of social responsibility are becoming the mainstream group of consumption in the circular fashion industry due to the impact of environmental awareness, representing green life. In the future, sustainable development will become a "new cake" worthy of deep cultivation in the traditional textile industry. The industry reminds that leading enterprises should play a more active role of pioneering and forerunner in this process to help high-quality development and upgrading. Reporter Tan Weiting (except the signature)

(Source: Guangzhou Daily)

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