Experts Said: Tang Xian'S Fragrant Cloud Yarn Shapes The International Brand Of Chinese Intangible Cultural Heritage

Since the "Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing technology" was selected into the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage, the Xiangyun yarn, known as the "soft gold" in the textile industry, has been rejuvenated, frequently stepped on the fashion stage, displayed in front of the world with a different look, and become a favorite material for fashion designers and consumers. And with the program "Inheritance in Progress" broadcast by Beijing Satellite TV, Wang Gang, as the assistant officer of intangible heritage inheritance, promoted the "Tang Xian" brand of Xiangyun gauze. Its unique creative design is constantly giving new impetus to the inheritance and development of Xiangyun yarn, which has attracted great attention from all walks of life. At the same time, people pay more and more attention to the brand of Xiangyun yarn, which also makes this attention rise to a new height.

For this reason, a number of experts and scholars related to the fragrant cloud yarn industry were invited to discuss the brand building and development trend of the fragrant cloud yarn intangible cultural heritage industry, taking the development of the intangible cultural heritage project "Tangxian" fragrant cloud yarn as an example. 　

Xiang Yuzhang, president of the Chinese Culture Promotion Association and the former chief inspector of the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine of the People's Republic of China, said: carrying forward the past and opening up the future, countless Chinese people, generation after generation, inherit the excellent traditional culture of China, and transmit the flame of the Chinese nation's progress. Creative transformation and innovative development, which are inevitable for inheriting the "intangible cultural heritage" culture, make cultural heritage and cultural resources "live" through creative transformation and innovative development, become an integral part of today's socialist modernization drive, and promote the development and progress of Chinese civilization, which is also an important work we should work hard to do in the future. How to realize the creative transformation and innovative development of China's outstanding intangible cultural heritage culture, and combine it with the real culture and contemporary culture, has also become an era topic for the inheritance and development of today's outstanding traditional culture.

As a national intangible cultural heritage project, Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing technology was approved by the former AQSIQ as a geographical indication product protection in 2011. Ouyang Fengting, the eldest disciple of Liang Zhu, the representative inheritor, takes inheriting the intangible cultural heritage culture as the primary concept of his clothing design. The fabric brand of "Tang Xian Fragrant Cloud Yarn" created by Ouyang Fengting is sought after by many fans of Fragrant Cloud Yarn, and has won honors and praise in many cities at home and abroad. She has been practicing the mission of ingenuity on the way of inheriting intangible cultural heritage, and constantly seeking breakthroughs in design while regaining the craftsmanship spirit in the process of making fragrant cloud gauze, hoping to make more people realize the value of fragrant cloud gauze and integrate it into people's daily life. This is a typical case of creative transformation and innovative development of intangible cultural heritage industry.

At the same time, she attaches great importance to the inheritance of the quality of "Tang Xian Xiangyun Yarn" and the innovation of the brand. She not only inherits the master's skill of making Xiangyun Yarn, but also vigorously spreads the charm of Xiangyun Yarn. It not only inherits the ancient skills, but also presents the modern beauty, so as to make continuous efforts for its better development.

Chen Shaofeng, Deputy Director of the Cultural Industry Development Base of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism and Professor of Peking University: Xiangyun yarn is a famous dyed fabric unique to southern China, and it is also a rare real silk fabric in the world textiles that is dyed with pure natural dyes. The whole process of Xiangyun yarn represented by "Tangxian Brand" is purely manual operation, and the dyeing and finishing technology has generated material products and is popular with the masses, which can be sold well at home and abroad as a commodity. Therefore, the inheritance of skills and the promotion of products through productive protection have naturally become the characteristics of this intangible heritage protection and the highlight of the development of the cultural and tourism industry, as well as the focus of the government's concern and protection of the dyeing and finishing technology of xiangyun yarn.

In recent years, the local government of Guangdong has formulated support policies to promote the development of the whole chain of fragrant cloud yarn, issued relevant development planning plans for the creative industry of fragrant cloud yarn culture, improved the inheritance system of intangible cultural heritage, created the development system of intangible cultural heritage, built a comprehensive marketing and promotion system of intangible cultural heritage, and comprehensively promoted the protection of the intangible cultural heritage of fragrant cloud yarn and high-quality development of the fragrant cloud yarn cultural industry. And clearly put forward to build the city card of "Cloud Yarn Hometown" and formulate the development strategy of "technology, culture and tourism".

In combination with the fundamental characteristics of the existing policies, high degree of integration with modernity and great industrialization potential, Tangxian Xiangyun Yarn has made every effort to promote the protection, inheritance and development of its "four combinations" with modern life, modern technology, modern products and modern aesthetics, so as to make the traditional craft glow with a new era of brilliance. Through holding or participating in the Xiangyun gauze costume design contest, Xiangyun gauze cultural creation design contest, comprehensively participating in the recording of the intangible cultural heritage program of Beijing TV's "Inheritance in Progress" and the "Going Out" exhibition activities of local cultural departments, creating original artistic works with the theme of Tangxian brand Xiangyun gauze, etc., the overall and three-dimensional publicity, promotion, dissemination and display of Xiangyun gauze finishing skills, Activate the innovation agglomeration effect of Xiangyun gauze. Through the perfect combination of ancient techniques and modern clothing, the hundred year old Xiangyun gauze clothing will be displayed to help the inheritance of intangible cultural heritage and the development of cultural tourism industry.

Liu Honghai, Secretary General of the Chinese Science Center of the Eurasian Academy of Sciences: Intangible cultural heritage is neither an old object of self admiration nor an old signboard of magnificence and emptiness, but a living fossil with vitality. It condenses and transmits the historical memory, common feelings, experience and wisdom of a nation and region. The inheritance and development of intangible cultural heritage needs a full flavor of the times and innovative vitality, so that it can come out of history and live in real life, and truly integrate into people's life. For example, the silk fabric dyed with pure plant dyes, which is called "soft gold" by the textile industry, is the wisdom crystallization left by the ancestors for generations.

"Tang Xian Fragrant Cloud Yarn" is a specialty of Shunde, Guangdong Province, and has a national geographical indication product of China. Because of its unique production process, small quantity, long production time, cool and pleasant, light and soft, fast drying in water, not easy to wrinkle, rich body bones, sterilization, insect repellent, skin care and other characteristics, it is deeply popular in the market. It can be seen that the protection and inheritance of Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing technology focuses on integrating into modern life and demonstrating contemporary value, so that more intangible cultural heritage brands can see people see things see life in the new era, and the ancient technology can make a wonderful appearance in modern life, injecting new impetus into economic and social development.

With a hundred years of ups and downs, Shunde, known as the "Silk Capital of the South", still has a complete preservation of the dyeing and finishing technology of Xiangyun yarn. It has washed away the lead in the long river of time, becoming more simple and elegant, and imbued with the charm of time. "Tang Xianxiangyun gauze" is not only a cultural heritage, but also a national fine tradition and cultural historical memory. Let intangible cultural heritage "see people see things see life", can better promote economic and social development, and continue to benefit people's well-being.

Wang Shousong, Director of the European Union General Administration of Culture, said that intangible cultural heritage, which condenses and transmits the historical memory, common feelings, experience and wisdom of a nation and region, is the sustenance of national spirit and culture, and is an important means and way to tell stories and convey voice. For example, Xiangyun gauze has a history of more than 1000 years. It is an ancient handmade plant dyed fabric in China and a national intangible cultural heritage. Pay tribute to those who inherit and protect the non bequeathed fragrance cloud gauze like Ouyang Fengting. The precipitation and accumulation brought by crossing thousands of years give Xiangyun gauze its unique soul.

In Chinese history, Xiangyun gauze was once considered as a precious ornament of the royal court. From the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, the craft of fragrant cloud gauze has developed continuously, becoming a decorative art that is applicable to both the court and the folk. The modern fragrant cloud yarn is highly skilled, which is not only widely used in clothing, home furnishing, gifts and other fields, but also becomes one of the important representatives of Chinese culture. The latest discovery shows that "Tang Xianxiangyun gauze" has profound cultural connotation in addition to clothing and decoration. It inherits China's excellent handicraft tradition and shows the essence of history, culture, art and other aspects of Chinese traditional culture through embroidery patterns and fonts.

At the same time, Tang Xian Fragrant Cloud Yarn It is also an important intangible cultural heritage in Chinese culture, representing the outstanding achievements of Chinese traditional handicrafts, and has an important role and significance in carrying forward China's "textile" culture and innovating the development of the silk industry; Tang Xianxiangyun gauze has the concept of "purity and elegance" of traditional clothing culture, which represents that Chinese clothing culture is also broad and profound, with profound implications, and is a valuable cultural heritage worth digging, belonging to China and the world.

"One hook, one fragrance cloud, one cloth, one fragrance cloud, clean the lead, and do not apply powder and indigo". Harmony but difference, humility and respect, exchange and mutual learning are the true portrayal of the development path of "Tang Xianxiangyun gauze". Tell Chinese stories with one yarn, one cloth and one dress, so that the flower of traditional intangible cultural heritage will never be defeated. Her unique personality is full of cultural self-confidence and highlights cultural charm, and shaping the international brand of Chinese intangible cultural heritage will stand firm.

Jiang Anxiang, president of the Institute of Traditional Culture of China Cloud Computing Center, Eurasian Academy of Sciences, said that Shunde, known as the "Silk Capital of the South", has still preserved the dyeing and finishing skills of the fragrant cloud gauze for its ups and downs in a century. It has washed away the lead in the long river of time, becoming more simple and elegant, and imbued with the charm of time.

Recently, it was jointly recorded and broadcast by the Research Institute and Beijing Satellite TV《 Inheritance in progress 》In the program, Wang Gang, as the assistant officer of intangible heritage inheritance, introduced the fragrant cloud gauze; Zhao Yazhi, as a recommender of intangible cultural heritage projects, wears a cloud gauze dress, which is extremely noble and elegant. The perfect combination of the ancient art of Xiangyun gauze and modern clothing is so incisive and beautiful! These classic works are highly recognized by the program team for Ouyang Fengting, the representative inheritor of intangible cultural heritage, and her creation of Tang Xian's fragrant cloud gauze.

As the eldest disciple of Liang Zhu, the representative successor of the national intangible cultural heritage project Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing technology, Ouyang Fengting provides professional guidance, innovates the path and creates a brand through her master. Mining and layout will be carried out around the intellectual property protection of Tang Xianxiangyun yarn, and the protection and development path of "intangible cultural heritage+intellectual property" will be established. Through the industrial standards, product standards and process standards of standardized production of fragrant cloud yarn gambiered Guangdong gauze The level of industrial standardization was further improved, and the national and international standards for Xiangyun yarn fabrics were further studied and formulated. At the same time, the triple protection network of "National Intangible Cultural Heritage+National Geographic Indications+Self owned Brand Trademark" shall be applied to resist the infringement of non origin. The standardization, branding and international development of Tangxian Fragrant Cloud Yarn will be assisted through measures such as the increasingly rich brand formats of Tangxian Fragrant Cloud Yarn industry, the increasingly improved construction of the industrial chain, the further improvement of the policy system, the protection of ecological space, the strengthening of team building, and the expansion of publicity and promotion.

From ancient times to the present, the inheritance of intangible cultural heritage is the best historical verification and the best traditional cultural inheritance. When we let these intangible cultural heritage cultures shine in the depths of the years become the nourishment of modern life, we will surely cultivate deeper cultural self-confidence in the rediscovery of the beauty of quality, craft and ingenuity. On the new journey of the development of the intangible cultural heritage industry of Xiangyun gauze, we should strengthen our historical consciousness, strengthen our cultural self-confidence, tell a good story of China's intangible cultural heritage in the new era with the development case of Tangxian brand Xiangyun gauze, and promote the Chinese culture to better go global.

Ouyang Fengting, successor of Xiangyun yarn intangible heritage and founder of Tangxian brand, said that the production base of Tangxian Xiangyun yarn fabric brand is located in Lunjiao, Shunde, Foshan, the birthplace of Xiangyun yarn. The company focuses on the research, development and production of Xiangyun yarn fabric. All products are protected by Xiangyun yarn national geographical indication products and supervised by Liang Zhu, the representative successor of national intangible heritage. Tangxian Xiangyun Yarn has always adhered to the principle of quality first, and is committed to providing consumers with the combination of traditional culture and innovation of the times. For this reason, our products also reflect the four spirits of exquisite materials, design first, advanced production technology and excellence. Tang Xian series products, such as tortoise grain fragrant cloud yarn, heavy satin fragrant cloud yarn, elastic satin fragrant cloud yarn, wrinkle smooth fragrant cloud yarn, silk spinning fragrant cloud yarn, interwoven fragrant cloud yarn, pearl satin fragrant cloud yarn, are made with great efforts.

Tangxian fragrant cloud yarn has many advantages, such as cool and soft, good fastness to sun and water, strong waterproof, easy to clean and dry, deep color, dirt resistance, non contact with skin, light and thin, not easy to wrinkle, soft and full of bones, durable, suitable for wearing in hot summer, and is popular with consumers. It has been sold to Europe, America, India, Southeast Asia and other places, It is praised by overseas people as a "black shining pearl" garment, and has become a famous product of Chinese silk.

As an intangible cultural heritage project, Tangxian brand Xiangyun gauze has been rejuvenated over the years, frequently appearing on the fashion stage, showing a different look to the world, becoming Fashion Designer Materials favored by consumers. Creative design is constantly giving new impetus to the inheritance and development of Xiangyun yarn. And "Tang Xian Xiangyun Yarn" has become the main focus of the next step from the quality and brand "two pronged approach". As a garment fabric, it really needs to face the market. But we can't just cater to the market and lose the original ecological quality created by traditional techniques. Therefore, we should try our best to bring the best and best quality Xiangyun gauze to the market, make a clean start, and let people know and contact the best Xiangyun gauze.

Inheritance work is not the work of one day, nor is it the work of one person. Ouyang Fengting confidently revealed that at present, the Xiangyun gauze theme college is under preparation. She wants to break through the current traditional form of enrollment, gather more new forces who are interested in Xiangyun gauze and are willing to join in the inheritance cause in the way of training classes, display the hundred year old Xiangyun gauze clothing, and help the inheritance of intangible cultural heritage. In order to inherit the ancient skills, let more people fully reflect the beauty of oriental clothing in the Tang Xian brand Xiangyun gauze. (Liu Weibing Wang Xiangming)