"Cheongsam Exhibition" Held In Shanghai A Long Way To Go
"Cheongsam Exhibition" held in Shanghai Museum of art in April 15th.
The exhibition shows 118 cheongsam from the late Qing Dynasty to the end of the last century, 3 of which were borrowed from the memorial hall of Song Qingling's former residence in Shanghai, which was passed by Song Qingling before death; the other half were collected by the experts in costume history, Zhou Xun, Shanghai Art Research Institute, and Gao Chun Ming's researchers, who spent 30 years in the collection.
Facing the numerous cheongsam at the exhibition, we can not ask people whether the cheongsam should be put into museum display, or can it be developed into one of the main styles of Chinese women?
Once a "national costume" for women.
Gao Chunming said that Qipao was originally a Manchu costume. In 1644, Manchu people entered the customs, and many elements of Manchu Qipao were gradually accepted by Han women, thus becoming the daily dress of exclusive women, once becoming the "national costume" of modern Chinese women.
The regulations on the Republic of China's regulations stipulate "formal dress": Men's wear, long gown, mandarin jacket, women's wear and Qipao.
Cheongsam recorded the development process of dress culture in an era, which is an important historical memory in modern Chinese society.
In the late 20s of last century, the fashion of Shanghai was synchronized with that of Europe and the United States. The styles of cheongsam changed significantly, such as shortening the length, tightening the waist and displaying the beauty of curves.
This "Hai Pai cheongsam" is quite different from the earliest cheongsam of the Manchu people. Apart from retaining its original core elements, cheongsam has made innovations in cutting, decorating, texture and interest, integrating into the rhythm and demeanor of modern society.
After the 50s of last century, cheongsam withdrew from the historical stage of women's clothing for a variety of reasons.
In particular, the development of modern garment technology has greatly impacted the traditional production techniques of Qipao, and its handcraftsmanship has gradually declined. Even the documents, pictures, objects and historical memory of the Qipao style have been lost in modern social life.
Until the 80s of last century, with China's reform and opening up and economic recovery, cheongsam, which has a distinctive national characteristics and once loved by Chinese women, has come back to people's eyes.
Cheongsam must be reformed and developed
Gao Chunming said that the best way to protect is to develop and inherit.
To make cheongsam one of the main costumes of today's Chinese people, we must make it suitable for the change of social aesthetic concepts and the change of pace of life.
Cheongsam can be popular for more than a century because of its constant changes to suit people's aesthetic and living needs.
In the 30s of last century, cheongsam style was traditionally innovating on the basis of traditional fashion in Europe and America, and Westernization was used in the production. The fabric was also very rich due to the large quantity of textile imports.
During the war of resistance against Japan, cheongsam was simple and practical, but the shape still emphasized the body curve, and the swing of the cheongsam moved from the upper part of the leg to the knees.
In the later stage, an improved cheongsam between Qipao and Western skirt was also made more suitable and practical.
How to dress cheongsam for today's consumer psychology, customs, aesthetic orientation and technological level, and diversify to meet the needs of women at different levels on different occasions will be an important topic for dress experts.
Cheongsam's recovery is a long way to go
There is still much work to be done to make cheongsam a "formal dress".
Following the "one hundred years of cheongsam Exhibition", the Shanghai Academy of Arts will also introduce the large-scale multimedia fashion show "the sea flower and the hundred years Qipao large-scale exhibition". The designers will restore the cheongsam designed for nearly 100 years in different styles.
Experts and scholars from the Shanghai Academy of Social Sciences, the Shanghai Museum and the Shanghai Museum of history will conduct extensive and systematic discussions on the research, collection, protection and promotion of cheongsam. They will also set up the "Chinese cheongsam Research Association" to establish cheongsam production base and clothing Museum, and to collect cheongsam restoration products, handed down objects, documentary materials and picture materials, making the Qipao production base and Qipao museum become an important platform for the protection, inheritance and development of cheongsam culture.
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