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Basic Knowledge Of Woven Garment Processing

2010/4/29 9:37:00 27

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The commonly used clothing woven fabric is the loom to form in the form of shuttle. The yarn is composed of warp and weft interlacing. Its organization usually has three main categories: plain, twill and satin, and their changing organization. The classification of fabrics is made up of cotton fabrics, silk fabrics, woolen fabrics, linen fabrics, chemical fiber fabrics and their blended and interwoven fabrics. The use of woven fabrics in clothing is in the leading position both in variety and quantity. Woven garments vary greatly in terms of their styles, techniques, styles and so on. The basic knowledge of general woven garment processing is introduced below.

　　 (1) production process flow of woven garments

The surface accessories shall be imported into the factory for inspection, technical preparation, cutting, sewing, button fastener, ironing, garment inspection, packaging, storage and transportation.

After the material entering the factory, the quantity inventory and the inspection of appearance and internal quality should be carried out to meet the requirements of production. Before batch production, technical preparation is required, including process sheet, template making and sample making. The sample can be entered into the next production process after confirmation by the customer. After the fabric is cut and sewn to make semi finished products, some woven fabrics are made into semi-finished products. According to the special technological requirements, they must be processed after finishing, such as washing clothes, washing clothes, washing sand, wrinkling effect processing, etc., and finally through the buttonhole buttoning auxiliary process and the finishing process, and after the inspection is qualified, they are packed and put into storage.

　　 (two) purpose and requirements of fabric inspection

To control the quality of fabrics is an important part of controlling the quality of finished products. The inspection and measurement of incoming fabrics can effectively improve the quality of garments.

Fabric inspection includes two aspects: appearance quality and internal quality. The main inspection fabrics are damaged, stained, woven defects, chromatic aberration and so on. Sand washing fabrics should also pay attention to sand defects such as sand roads, dead prints and draping. Defects affecting the appearance need to be marked out in the inspection and avoid using when cutting.

The internal quality of fabrics mainly includes shrinkage, color fastness and weight (three meters). During the inspection and sampling, the representative samples produced by different manufacturers and different colors and colors should be selected for testing so as to ensure the accuracy of the data.

At the same time, incoming accessories should be inspected, such as elastic shrinkage, adhesion fastness, zipper smoothness and so on, and the auxiliary materials which can not meet the requirements will not be put into operation.

　　 (three) main contents of technical preparation

Before mass production, technical personnel should be prepared before major production. Technical preparation includes three parts: process sheet, template making and sample making. Technical preparation is an important means to ensure the smooth operation of bulk production and the final product to meet customer requirements.

The process sheet is a guiding document in garment processing. It puts forward detailed requirements for garment specifications, sewing, ironing, packaging and so on. The details of garment accessories, sewing density and other details are also specified, as shown in Table 1-1. Each process in garment processing should be strictly referenced to the requirements of the process sheet.

Template production requires accurate size and complete specifications. The contour of the relevant parts is exactly the same. The number, position, specification, direction and quality requirement of the garment should be marked on the template, and the template composite badge should be affixed to the splicing place.

After finishing the process sheet and template making work, we can carry out the production of small batch of sample clothing, correct the discrepancies in time according to the requirements of customers and process, and tackle the difficulties of the process so as to facilitate the smooth operation of large quantities of flow shop. The sample has become one of the important basis for inspection after the customer has confirmed the signature.

　　 (four) tailoring process requirements

Before drawing, it is necessary to draw out the layout chart according to the template. "Complete, reasonable and economical" is the basic principle of discharging. The main process requirements in the cutting process are as follows:

(1) clear the quantity when dragging material and avoid defects.

(2) for different batches of dyed or washed fabrics, they should be cut in batches to prevent chromatic aberration on the same garment. Chromatic aberration should be used in a fabric with chromatic aberration.

(3) when discharging, pay attention to the straight thread of the fabric and whether the direction of the silk thread of the garment is in accordance with the technological requirements, and the fabric of velvet (such as velvet, velvet, corduroy, etc.) must not be discharged in reverse direction, otherwise the color of the garment will be affected.

(4) for the fabric with stripes, we should pay attention to the alignment and positioning of the stripes in each layer, so as to ensure the continuity and symmetry of the stripes.

(5) cutting requires accurate knives and smooth lines. The overlay shall not be too thick, and the upper and lower layers of the fabric shall not deviate from the knife.

(6) cut the knife edge according to the pattern mark.

(7) attention should be paid to the appearance of garments when using cone hole marking. After the tailoring, the quantity and the inspection work shall be counted, and according to the size of the garments, it shall be divided into heaps and bundled.

　　 (five) sewing sewing is the central process of garment processing. The sewing of garments can be divided into two types: machine sewing and manual sewing according to the style and technology. Streamlined operations are performed in the sewing process.

The application of fusible interlining in garment processing is common. Its function is to simplify the sewing process, make the uniform quality of clothing, prevent deformation and wrinkle, and play a certain role in garment modeling. The types of fabrics are mostly non-woven fabrics, shuttle fabrics and knitwear. The use of fusible liners should be chosen according to the fabric and location, and the time, temperature and pressure should be accurately grasbed, so as to achieve better results.

In the processing of woven garments, the stitches are arranged in a series of sleeves on a garment piece according to certain rules to form a firm and beautiful stitch.

　　 Traces can be basically summarized into the following four types:

The 1. chain track stitch is made up of one or two stitches. Single suture is called single strand seam. The advantage is that the number of wires in unit length is small. The drawback is that when the chain breaks, the side lock will be removed. The stitches of two stitches are called double line stitches. They are made of a needle thread and a hook thread. The elasticity and strength are better than those of lock stitches. Single line chain stitches are often used in the tops of trousers, trousers and seams, and the tops of suits. Double line chain stitches are often used for stitching, suturing, suture and side seams of the trousers, elastic bands and so on.

2. the lock stitch is also known as the shuttle stitch line, which is joined by two stitches in the stitching material. The two ends of the slit have the same shape, and their tensile and elastic properties are poor, but the stitches are close to each other. Linear lock stitch is the most common stitch thread. It is often used for stitching two pieces of stitches because of its small amount of wire and poor stretchability. Such as sewing, sewing, bagging and so on.

The 3. package stitch trace is a thread stitched by a plurality of stitches around the edge of the seam. According to the number of stitches in the stitches, the names (single thread seam and double thread seam) are named. Six sewing seam. The utility model is characterized in that the edge of the sewing material can be wrapped to prevent the edge of the fabric from being separated. When the stitch is stretched, there is a certain degree of mutual transfer between the surface line and the bottom line, so the elasticity of the stitch is good, so it is widely used for the edge wrapping of woven fabrics. Three thread stitching and four thread stitching are the most commonly used edge wrapping for woven products. The five line stitch and six wire seam are also known as "composite stitches", which are made up of a double line stitch and three thread stitches or four thread stitches. The biggest feature is that it is strong enough to make joint and seams at the same time, thereby increasing the density of stitches and the efficiency of sewing.

4. the stitch thread is made of two or more stitches and a crooked thread, and sometimes one or two decorative lines are attached to the front. The characteristics of the stitch stitch are strong strength, good stretchability and smooth stitching. In some cases, such as sewing, it can also prevent the edge of the fabric from falling off.

The basic stitching form is shown in Figure 1-13. Besides basic sewing, there are also processing methods such as plucking, sticking and embroidering according to the requirements of the style. The selection of needle, thread and stitch density should be taken into consideration in the sewing of woven garments.

Stitches can be classified according to "type and number". According to the shape, the stitches can be divided into S, J, B, U and Y types, corresponding to different fabrics, respectively, with suitable needle types.

The thickness of suture needles used in China is different from the number of stitches. The thickness of the stitches is more and more thick with the increase of the number. Sewing needle patterns used in garment processing generally range from 5 to 16, and different clothing materials adopt different thickness stitches.

The selection of stitches should be in accordance with the same color of clothing fabrics (especially those used for decoration design). Stitches usually include silk, cotton, cotton / polyester thread, polyester thread, etc. When choosing stitches, we should also pay attention to the quality of sutures, such as color fastness, shrinkage, fastness and renting strength. Standard stitches for all kinds of fabrics. 　　　　　　　　　　

The stitch density is the density of the pointer foot. It can be judged by the number of stitches on the cloth surface 3cm, and it can also be expressed by the number of pinholes in the 3cm cloth. Standard stitch density in woven garment processing.

The overall sewing requirements of the garment are regular and beautiful, and there should be no asymmetry, distortion, leakage and mismatch. In the sewing process, we should pay attention to the pattern of the stitching, and the grid is symmetrical. The stitches should be straight and uniform, smooth and smooth at the arc, and no wrinkles or small breaks on the surface of the garment. The stitches are in good condition without breaking, floating lines and thread drawing, etc. important parts such as collar must not be connected. 　　　

　　 (six) keyhole buckle

The buttons and buttons in clothing are usually machined. The buttonholes are divided into two types: flat and eye holes according to their shapes. They are commonly called sleeping holes and pigeon holes.

Sleeping holes are widely used in products such as shirts, skirts, trousers and so on.
Pigeon holes are mostly used in the coat of thick fabrics such as tops and suits.

　　 Keyhole should pay attention to the following points:

(1) whether the buttonhole position is correct.
(2) whether the size of buttonhole is matched with the size and thickness of buttons.
(3) whether the opening of the buttonhole is cut.
(4) there are stretchable (elastic) or very thin fabrics. Consider the use of locking holes to strengthen the inner layer. The stitching of buttons should correspond to the position of buttonholes, otherwise it will cause distortion and skew of garments due to incorrect deduction. When you press the button, you should also pay attention to whether the amount and strength of the thread is enough to prevent the buttons from falling off. 　

　　 (seven) ironing is a very important process in garment processing. People often use "three points sewing seven points and ironing" to adjust the ironing.

　　 The main functions of ironing include three points:

(1) remove wrinkles from the fabric by spray and ironing, and fold the seam.
(2) after heat setting, the garment is smooth, pleat and straight.
(3) using the "ironing" and "pulling" ironing skills to appropriately change the shrinkage degree of fibers and the density and direction of warp and weft weaves, and create the stereoscopic sculpt of clothing to meet the requirements of human body shape and activity state, so that the garments can achieve the purpose of beautiful appearance and comfortable clothing.

The four basic factors affecting fabric ironing are temperature, humidity, pressure and time. Ironing temperature is the main factor affecting the effect of ironing. Mastering the ironing temperature of all kinds of fabrics is the key issue for finishing garments. The ironing temperature is too low to achieve the effect of ironing; if the temperature is too high, the clothes will be ironed and damaged.

The ironing temperature of all kinds of fibers is also affected by various factors such as contact time, moving speed, ironing pressure, whether there is a pad, thickness of cloth and moisture.

　　 The following phenomena should be avoided in ironing:

(1) the aurora and scorching of the garment surface caused by the excessive temperature of the ironing.
(2) a small wrinkle and other ironing defects on the surface of the garment.
(3) there is a hot spot.

　　 (eight) garment inspection

Garment inspection should be run through cutting, sewing, buttonhole fastener and ironing. The finished products should be thoroughly tested before packing, so as to ensure the quality of the products.

　　 The main contents of the finished product inspection are:

(1) whether the style is the same as the confirmation sample.
(2) does the size meet the requirements of the process sheet and sample clothing?
(3) whether the stitching is correct and whether the stitching is neat and smooth.
(4) check whether the checked bar is correct.
(5) whether the silk thread is correct, whether the fabric is defective or not.
(6) whether there is chromatic aberration in the same garment.
(7) whether the ironing is good.
(8) whether the adhesive lining is strong and whether there is glue penetration phenomenon.
(9) whether the thread has been repaired.
(10) whether garment accessories are complete.
(11) whether the size mark, water mark, trademark and so on are identical with the actual goods and whether the location is correct.
(12) whether the overall shape of clothing is good.
(13) whether packing meets the requirements.

　　 (nine) packaging and warehousing

The packaging of garments can be divided into two parts, namely, hanging and packing.

The inner packing refers to one or more garments into a plastic bag. The number and size of the clothes should be identical with those marked on the plastic bags. The packing requirements are smooth and beautiful. Some special styles of clothing should be specially handled when packaging. For example, wrinkle like clothing should be wrapped in a wrapper to maintain its styling.

The outer packing is usually packed in cartons, size and color matching according to customer requirements or process instructions. Generally, there are four types of packaging: mixed color mixed code, single color single code, single color mixed code and mixed color only code. When packing, attention should be paid to the complete number and accurate collocation of colors and sizes. The outer box is marked with the box mark, indicating the contents of the customer, the port of shipment, the box number, the quantity, the place of origin, etc., and the contents are in conformity with the actual goods.