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Basic Knowledge Of Garment Structure Drawing

2010/5/4 10:20:00 20

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First, the concept of basic method.

In the industry, the basic method, also known as the general sample method, is a method of garment cutting and sampling based on the overall shape of the garment piece. According to the clothing varieties, they are divided into shirt base, suit type, coat type and so on. As a base type, the template usually takes the shape of the simplest or similar style in a particular variety, for example, the ordinary trousers are the basic type of trousers, the single breasted flat tie is the base type of western style clothes and so on.

There are two main categories of Zhang Wenbin's clothing graphic drawing methods: one is the direct constitution method based on the size of the finished product or the loose body bust, which includes the D method, the basic rectangle method, the whole chest circumference method and so on. The other is the indirect constitution method of the size of the human body, including the short inch method and the prototype method. According to this view, the basic law is also one of the direct constitution methods.

According to this classification, the basic type is defined as:

The basic frame or the base pattern with the size of the finished product or the loose chest circumference as the size source is the basic type, for example, the trousers foundation type can be a complete drawing of the trousers, or a part of the middle crotch line, or a part of the transverse crotch line. Therefore, the basic type is the clothing type: or the conceptual form of the garment, or the specific form of the garment.

The basic method of drawing is to make use of the base template to make changes in the model according to the specific modeling needs by means of complements, shearing, folding and stretching.

According to this concept, the main basic mapping methods in China are Ma Linji type, red road type, plum type prototype method, Wei Xuejing's Chinese women's wear prototype, Jiang Xigen's mother type method, Wu Jingxiong's preferred basic method, Dai Yongfu's D method, the heart force proportion basic method and so on. Foreign mausa type, Japanese Mori Ikuko prototype, and British Venetian like sample, etc., the national unified teaching material "clothing structure drawing" designed by the Ministry of education is compiled on the basis of the mother's clipping method of Jiang Xigen.

　　 Two. The advantages of basic operation.

The basic type is the same as the prototype, so it is quite simple and flexible to make use of the method of paper folding, proportion distribution, ratio and so on.

1, the direct use of basic changes, once in place, faster creation style, in terms of method is simple, in the form of the same.

2. The data of the base type are mainly based on the national standard. As long as the size of the garment size and the number of files are determined, the push plate can be pushed, and it has the characteristics of accuracy and standardization.

3, the basic frame system brings flexibility and flexibility to the design of garment structure. For example, the basic frame and formula of the jacket vary little, and the details of shoulder, sleeve, front and back are fine tuned to form a base series. Naming data is easy to remember and flexible to control.

4, as a popular Chinese cutting method, the basic law has a strong mass foundation and technical foundation. It is easy to be unified as a design structure theory for analysis and research, thus becoming a unique cutting system in China.

　　 Three. Learning points of the basic method

1, always grasp the relationship between people and clothing. To make the most of the basic method, we must first understand the relationship between human and clothing, including human physiological characteristics, human activity factors, human psychological factors, crowd comparison, etc., such as the composition of the collar, we need to understand the relationship between neck shape and collar shape, neck and chest shape and neckline segmentation, neck activity and collar relaxation.

2, use inductive contrast method to learn. The basic type drawing is essentially a series of basic drawing. The method of induction and contrast can get twice the result with half the effort. For example, the skirt is based on straight skirt, and it can be changed into oblique skirt and skirt by cutting and folding. On the basis of this, it can be changed into a basic pattern and changed into a basic skirt pattern. For example, the sleeves can be summed up as two factors, such as the sleeves, the sleeves, the sleeves, the sleeves and the sleeves of the sleeves. It can be summed up as two factors, namely, the basic form of the human arm and the sleeve, the balance between the sleeve structure and the body structure.

3, learn the expression of graphic language. The graphic language of clothing is an international common graphic language. It has standard drawing symbols and rules of application. In this study, we master the overall graphics and key details through these language points, and find the characteristics and essentials of drawing. In Mr. Wei Lida's words, "the expression of big picture" is like "the expression of big picture". For example, the shape of the back of the suit can be obtained from the data of lumbar pads, and the style of Zhongshan suit and military uniform, and students' costume can be seen from the "big picture".

The basic law map has not yet formed a complete system in China, and there are many disputes in its theoretical basis, form and means. I hope this article can give some lessons to the teachers of the same department to explore and improve it.