Should New York Men's Wear Week Be The Right Thing To Do? (Chart)

    The independent men's wear week, Milan and Paris are also definitely coming to New York, the exclusive fashion week for men.

　　
In fact, in recent years, every week in February and September, New York fashion week, which was specially designed for women's wear, also made men's clothing a share. But the problem is that the men's wear series released in New York fashion week in February coincided with the January men's week in Europe, but September's release was three months later than the men's wear show in Milan and Paris. The main complaint of designers is that the timing of September is very bad for business operation.

　　
"I have joined the CFDA for ten years, and we have been trying to do that for ten years," said John Varvatos, who is planning the New York men's wear week designer. "If we plan to try, there will be a better performance than before, because we have a bigger design platform."


 

American designers prefer to play in Europe.
 

"I like to release in New York. Of course, most of my previous shows were there," Varvatos said. Before the three season in Milan, Varvatos created the largest men's wear record in New York. "The reality is that the men's wear market was opened in Milan men's week June 20th, and New York's release will not be presented to the public until September." In this way, American designers who base their production base in Europe need not have a single spring summer series. (June Milan men's wear week is the spring and summer series to be released next year). European factories have no time to take care of the late arrival of the other side of the ocean.

　　
There may be more flexibility for the same brand of clothing that is produced in developing countries. If there is a choice, I am afraid that all the fairies will be inclined to make the new model that will soon be released before letting the buyer enter his showroom. So how do you get the best return after a fashion show? You have invested a lot of time and money, but as an international brand, you have made very few returns in the US. The reason why I like to publish in New York is that this is our base, which is not very complicated, but it does not mean that this is a wise and reasonable thing. Varvatos spoke out.

 

"Authority" created by market behavior
 

The CFDA (American Fashion Designers Association) and IMG Fashion (Global Mercedes Benz Fashion Week management organization)'s position is: if men's designers prefer to make shows in Europe and are feasible, it is also more beneficial to the designers themselves. But Zack Eichman, vice president of IMG Fashion, said: "I understand that there is no concern for buyers because of fashion relations, but fashion week is always a media activity. Perhaps buyers do need directional fashion shows, but they often make decisions in showroom. In fact, hiring models, hairstyles, makeup and spending all the money to run shows is nothing more than a marketing activity. Many years ago, men's clothing designers such as John Bartlett held fashion shows during the week of New York market. So even if we really need a tent in New York fashion week, it does not mean that we can get the attention of the core supporters outside the tent.

　　
When Helmut Lang moved to New York, it changed history. In 1998, Lang said he would not wait for the New York fashion week to be held in October, while other designers set him up as an example. As a result, New York fashion week had to arrive six weeks ahead of schedule, and was scheduled to be held in September. Almost at the same time (or possibly influenced by the Lang fashion show, many American designers began to integrate men's clothing look into their women's wear), so they opened the door for the popularity of men's wear show, although men's clothes were still submerged in the unpredictable and visual charm of women's fashion trends. Since Trovata, Cloak and Thom Browne once became the spokesmen of the fashion industry, the number of men's wear designers in the United States has surged in the past ten years, and American men's clothing has received more attention. "Hosting an independent men's week is sure to be very visible, but it will encounter obstacles on the agenda and how to expand global influence. There is a huge question mark here."

　　
IMG's Eichman objectively expressed his opinion: "I don't know if it is necessary for designers to perform themselves when they have other opportunities to show themselves, still performing fashion shows in New York and Europe fashion week. This industry needs a designer group that is full of vitality and brings different voices, so that people can focus on their motivation and causes. In contrast, men's clothing week in Milan and Paris may be more authoritative. In January and June each year, Milan and Paris set up separate fashion week for men's wear, and responsible for their fashion organizations are trying to stay away from fashion week with official strict standards. For many European fashion houses, especially Italy brands, men's clothing business is nearly half of their total, so they always spend a lot of time on men's clothing to reflect this. On the other hand, in New York, any resourceful and resourceful person can perform a show and enter the fashion week schedule, but this is also the reason why the city is the cradle of the new designer.


 

There are many local supporters.
 

Of course, there are also many supporters in New York. "I think New York is a suitable environment for us," said designer Michael Bastian. "We are luckier than most people because we manufacture in Italy, and the showroom in Brunello during the Milan fashion week in June is open to retailers. By the end of August, we finished the show. Although we have to make changes in the new series due to media exposure, retailers have witnessed the complete series in advance. Besides business, it is also important to comment on your work from an American perspective. It is important to know that publishing between Dolce &Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli is more difficult.

　　
Duckie Brown's Daniel Silver and Steven Cox also made a commitment: "Duckie Brown is a New York company, this is our base. You can't get so much from a city without giving it back. It is our duty to support New York fashion. If we are going to live here, we will definitely do the fashion show here. Everyone thinks "the moon is more round abroad", maybe, but we think it is more suitable here. We once held a show in Milan, it really led the sales there, but after all, it is also a difficult thing, because there are too many brands, so you have to face Armani, Prada and Dolce &Gabbana. New York is a city full of wit and humor, especially in the last five years, the development of men's wear brands is very good.

　　
In other words, New York fashion week is also supported by many local brands. Over the past February fashion week, there were more than 50 men's wear. Take Calvin Klein for example. Although it is working hard in Milan in June, it will return to New York in February to issue a new series. And the brand of men's clothing springing up in Manhattan also fueled the independence of men's clothing week.


 

"If you can reserve the men's clothing for the first two days of the New York fashion week, or even develop into an independent part, it will be very attractive." Designer Robert Geller said. In fact, most of the time of the first day of New York fashion week is now giving way to men's show, but it needs further symbolic efforts to make it official.

 

Source: garment engineering network