The Design Of Inner Ear Shoes -- Making The Upper Model.

To make a sample of the upper is also called "playing plate" and "out of bounds", which means that the designed parts are produced according to the requirements.

The upper shoe pattern used for production includes the basic model, the opening material and the shoe template.

This section describes the preparation of basic templates and opening templates.

There are many ways to make the upper model, including decomposing design method, pricking point method, copying paper rubbing method, copying paper copy method and so on.

At present, the commonly used method is the streak plate method, that is, pforming the design drawing into a scribing board.

This method saves the trouble of duplication and preserves the integrity of the design, often used for the opening of leather shoes and sports shoes.

Design structural drawings on cardboard and then convert them into scribing boards.

The specific requirements are as follows:

(1) small parts are designed on the top part of the larger parts, which saves materials and is not easy to lose.

(2) cut off the contour line of the design part with an art knife.

(3) divide the contour of the larger part with the cutters.

Do not cut off from 4 to 5mm distance from the outermost contour; when interrupted, the length of the connection is 4 to 5mm.

The intermittent segmentation is changed into a slot for drawing lines. The cutting line of the notch is applied to the place where the stubble is placed, and the cutting edge is indicated to represent the non contour line. The spacing between the notches is 2mm, and when the false line is encountered, it is only used for notches.

The inside and outside of the bottom are simply marked by differences.

(4) at the place where the corner is taken off, it is necessary to cut off the stilling angle and do not make the shear mark, indicating that one side is the front line and the other is the back line.

(5) complete the cutting of the small parts to form a scribing groove.

With the scribing groove, each part can be produced smoothly, as shown in Fig. 1-2-24.

 

As you can see from the diagram, you can see the outline of the groove and the small template on the colored paper.

There are some other design lines in the actual groove, but the key to the drawing is the notch, because the purpose of the drawing board is to make the template, so the outline of each part should be clearly shown on the drawing board.

The contour lines of the front and back sides are expressed by the slot. The useful side channel lines are smooth and the contour lines are designed; the other side of the slot line has a cut on the side of the position of the stubble.

If a false line is encountered, both sides of the notch are smooth.

Similar to shoe eye and other locations are often used to mark points.

According to the drawing line of each part of the marking board, all the contour lines of the template can be obtained.

Cut out the basic template of various components according to the outline.

The basic template is also called folding, sample making, etc. this book requires that the basic template should not be added to the hem.

In earlier books, the emphasis was placed on increasing the amount of stubble to be done, so as to directly test the accuracy of the set pattern, because 20 years ago, people were still unfamiliar with the structural design, and each design of a sample was required to be verified, so the amount of added stubble was convenient.

With more than 20 years of experience, as long as the original template is verified accurately with the set, the shoe model in the back is correct as long as the plate is taken correctly and no need to check it.

For the basic template, there are the following requirements:

(1) the outline of the basic template should be complete, especially from the corners, back midline, bottom and so on.

(2) the basic template should be marked with processing, including the location of the middle point, the position of the shoe eye, the location of the false line, the location of the connection, the location of the lock, etc. these processing marks are collectively referred to as rules.

(3) the outline of the bottom should be distinguished from the inside and outside, and a cut mark should be produced on the side of the side.

(4) small parts such as tongue, safety skin and so on usually include the amount of processing such as the amount of reload and stubble.

As shown in figure 1-2-25, the front door of the front door is marked with the midpoint mark, the shear mark on the side of the front side is also marked with the midpoint mark, the rear side is marked with the shoe eye position and the false line, the shoe tongue is marked with a stubble quantity, and the insurance leather has a mark of rewinding.

Only the basic template can not be opened, and the sample must be made.

The opening material template is also called the pattern plate and the blanking template. It is also a model for cutting the mold and calculating the material quota.

The maximum amount of processing should be included in the opening material, for example, stubble quantity, hem volume, joint seam quantity, and so on.

The amount of processing added depends on the design requirements.

The usual processing quantities are as follows:

(1) the amount of hem is 4.5 ~ 5mm for general material, 4 ~ 4. 5mm for thin material, and 6 ~ 7mm for thick or thickened parts.

(2) the amount of stubble is generally increased by 8 ~ 9mm.

(3) when the rear arc middle line is made of leather, the seam distance is between 1 and 1. 2mm, and there is no need to add the amount of stitching. When using artificial leather and other materials, in order to prevent the opening, it is necessary to add the amount of 3mm joint, and the seam distance is 3mm.

(4) when other parts are seams, add 1 to 1.Smm joint seams, and the seam distance is 1 to 1.5mm.

(5) when the shoe is turned to seam, the stitching distance is 3 to 4mm, and the amount of 3 to 4mm seam should be added.

In general, there is no need to make rules on the material.

When making the open pattern, follow the outline of the basic template and add the required amount of processing. See Fig. 1-2-26.

 

The front side is added with the hem, and then the hem is added to the hem and the stubble.

The shoe opening model is the same as the basic template.

The method of making different shoes model is the same. It is a fixed mode.

Since all the components in the structural design have been accurately expressed, there will be no mistake if they are carefully prepared.

Drawing a structural drawing requires "pen work". It takes a knife skill to create a template, and both are essential skills for the designer.