Three Quarter Footwear Design -- Three Quarter Shoe Variant Design

Three quarter shoes also have a variety of variant design, if viewed from the instep, it is still the three head shoe model, but there will be many changes from the side side.

Since the structure is unchanged, the pformation is just the outline of the parts, so the variant three head shoes can be modeled on the example of three typical shoes.

The swallow tailed three knot is also called the three flower head. It is the three most mature product of the typical three head shoes. See Figure 1 - 3-13.

 

The change of the three toe shoes is mainly in the parts of the front Baotou and the rear luggage.

The former Baotou has two wings, like the tail of a swallow, so it is called the swallowtail three quarter shoe.

In order to echo with the former Baotou, a back pack and parts were added to the rear end of the shoe.

The swallowtail type three section upper shoe upper part contour line's modelling is very stretches, has broken the typical three quarter shoe's seriousness, appears rather relaxed and lively.

When designing, pay attention to the contour of all components should be uniform in style and look like a complete form.

The rear part and the part are connected inside and outside the boundary, leaving out the safety leather parts.

1. the design of the former Baotou

The location of Baotou before design is basically unchanged, as shown in figure 1-3-14.

Take the AV length 2/3 on the half panel as the V1 point of the former Baotou length.

Connect, point and V1 point into a straight line, and connect the bottom port to the straight line, set the Ao point, and the AoVl line is the back line of the front Baotou.

Through the Vl point, the vertical line of the back midline of Baotou is intersected with the bottom, and then find 1 / 2 places, then move 3mm up to V2 point.

The length of V1V2 is the width of the opening of the former Baotou.

The reason for moving 3mm is the same as that of the mouth door. It is designed for an early measurement of the tensile deformation of the door.

At the midpoint of the width of the opening, make a vertical line with wide mouth width. The depth of the opening will be cut at about 2/3 of the mouth width on the vertical line.

For the convenience of drawing, a vertical line is made at the depth of opening, and 5mm is cut off from top to bottom to connect to auxiliary line.

The length of the wings of the former Baotou is at 1, /2 HF.

Connecting several control points to form a supplementary line is enough to confirm roughly the scope of the former Baotou.

Design the contour of the front Baotou in the auxiliary line.

The contour lines of the former Baotou should be stretched, lively and dynamic.

2. the design of the former Gang

The design center is similar to the typical three heads, but the shape of the parts varies greatly, as shown in figure l-3-15.

 

Connect Vl points and V 'points to the back midline of the front middle gang.

Through the V'point, make the vertical line of the front midline of the center to control the location and shape of the door.

About half of the vertical line begins to draw an arc, not counting the outline of the door, and has been postponed to the end of the F1 point.

Drawing the contour changes of the front and middle teams, we should refer to the shape changes of the two wings of the former Baotou, so that the lines of the two components will be similar to each other in order to achieve a unified style.

Because the three sides of the front and middle wings are relatively stretched and the width of the mouth is bigger, it is necessary to ensure that the R points are ensured.

The design of 3. post and back pack

The back pack is like a piece that is cut off on the back. First, the contour line of the rear part is designed, then the position of the back pack is segmented.

Note that the relationship between the rear package and the parts is "post pressure", because the waist is thinner and the heel is more fat, and the back pack is pressed on the back to make the finished product not easy to see "white stubble" phenomenon, and the visual effect is good.

There is not much change in the design of the rear Gang, but the shape of the arc of the shoe's ear and the shape of the shoe's curve should draw on the arc changes of the door.

The front end of the shoe ears has a seesaw angle and 5 eye positions.

The arc curve of false line should be slightly exaggerated, so as to coordinate with other arcs.

After segmentation, we need to control two lengths of data.

The length of the back pack and the upper end is usually controlled at 20 to 30mm. If you want the back pack to be strong and powerful, you can get a wider width. If you want the back pack to be dexterous and light, you can get a shorter one.

This picture is taken in 20mm.

The length of the rear package and the bottom port is controlled at 5mm after the F1 point, which is a distance from the front middle gang.

After seeing the relevant color map, you can know that this is just one of the changes, not the death rule.

Note: the rear arc of the rear package is in the range of 1.5 ~ 2mm at the Q. point, then connected to a straight line at the 2mm position under the D point.

This treatment will help to stretch the upper part of the frame, because the general back is not to be sutured, and the joint will be shorter after the joint. Therefore, the position of the design will be more than 1.5 ~ 2mm after the design, so it should be removed in the form of craft.

4. preparation of scribing boards and templates.

The method of making scribing boards and making templates is basically the same as that of the typical three heads, but there are special requirements for the following methods.

The upper part of the rear part is connected with the upper part of the outer part, and the sewing operation is omitted, but the fork is opened at the lower end, as shown in Fig. 1-3 -16.

 

As shown, there are five basic models and six pieces.

The opening point of the rear heel is taken from 1 to 2mm below the D point, which can stagger the most prominent position of the rear arc, so that the triangular tip of the stitch (commonly known as the chicken butt) is not too prominent.

Process change of 5. swallow tail three quarter shoe

The shape of the swallowtail three quarter shoe can also be changed through technological changes.

One of the usual techniques is flower holes, and one for flower teeth.

(1) flower holes are used to decorate holes in the front Baotou, the front middle, the back and the false lines. There are many examples in the relevant color maps.

Flower hole technology is not.

The size of the parts that affect the contour design is only carried out on the edge of the component.

Generally, flower holes are arranged in a large two small intervals.

When choosing flower hole punch, macroporous =3mm and pinhole =1mm.

When the car line is on the sides of the flower holes, you can see the color map B-l and so on.

The key to designing flower holes is to find the central position of the big flower holes. The L is arranged in the middle of the macropores.

The position of the center of the big flower hole is 4.5 to 5mm from the edge of the component, and the center distance between each hole is about 7mm.

When preparing the basic template, you only need to mark the center position of the big hole and punch holes in the hole according to the rules of the hole. See 1-3-17.

Note that due to the existence of holes in the flower L, the amount of stubble below the flower hole is increased to 12mm.

(2) the floral teeth are used to decorate the edges of the parts of the front Baotou, the front, middle and back parts.

The flower tooth is also called the dog's teeth. There are special teeth punching knives, and the effect of playing teeth is shown in color picture B-7.

Because the location of the line is behind the flower teeth, it is necessary to add the amount of 2mm to the edge of the floral parts, which is different from the operation of the flower L. The amount of stubble under the flower teeth is still 8 to 9mm, as shown in figure 1-3-18.

 

After the combination, the changes of the three head shoes are shown in the following three parts: the shoe ears, the back bar and the back pack.

The design is based on the typical three head shoes, and then the front part is divided into three parts, as shown in figure 1-3-19.

 

The dividing line of the shoe ears is the key point of the design, which is equivalent to the decorative false line going back and forth, and then lapping with the back pack.

The lines of the shoe ears should be smooth and dynamic, like the dragon tail.

In order to highlight the leisurely and unhurried lines, it is necessary to consciously lower the height of the front gang and leave more space for the dividing line. At the same time, the bottom of the rear heel should not be too long, so that the dividing line will be lengthened and finally disappear under the back package and the parts, as shown in Fig. 1-3-20.

 

As shown in the picture, there is a round guard skin at the mouth gate to prevent the door from being torn, and to stitch the ends with the back to protect the mouth.

The guard leather can also be designed to grow strip parts, but not as easy as circular parts. The circular parts can be directly punched with =10 ~ 12mm punching knife, and it is not easy to twist when sewing.

The design method of the former Baotou is the same as before; the design of the former Gang should intentionally lower the height of the two wings; the design method of the latter Gang is not changed, and the three parts of the shoes are divided into the shoe ears, the back bar and the back pack.

The position of the QQ is still 1.5 to 2mm after the package is made, and then the D is connected to the center line under the 2mm position.

Pay attention to the relationship between the three parts: the shoe ears press the back bar, the back pack presses on the shoe ears and the back bar.

The method of making scribing boards and making templates is invariable.

Ming rubber band three quarter shoe is a form of change that uses auxiliary parts to change the shape.

The rubber band here can not only play a function of opening and closing, but also a decoration, as shown in figure 1-3-21.

 

In the picture, the rubber band has borrowed the position of the false line, the width is about 30mm.

When processing, place the thin rubber band between the sides and the shoes. The amount of stubble is released around the lOmm, then stitched with thread.

Attention should be paid to the design of the rubber band, and the line should be taken at the edge of the rubber bar.

Because of the existence of the rubber band, the area of the shoe ears is occupied, and the height of the two wings is also intentionally lowered during the design.

The design of other components is similar to the typical three section shoes, as shown in figure 1-3-22.

 

The pattern of drawing the drawing board and making the template is the same.

The variant design of the three head shoes can also change the shape of the shoe last, so you can use the female last to design the three section shoes of women's type, as shown in figure 1-3-23.

 

Women's three quarter shoes are modeled on men's shoes, and they are not subject to the traditional pattern of men's shoes.

We should use super long prime last to design women's three head shoes.

In the modeling of the upper, the shoe ears are relatively short, and the short front middle helps to make the shoes neat, soft and beautiful, with feminine characteristics.

You can not see the insurance cover on the finished product graph. This is a kind of "crooked skin", which can be seen from the back arc when it is carried on outside.

The design of women's three quarter shoes is similar to the design of men's three quarter shoes, including the design of the former Baotou, the design of the front and middle sides, and the design of the rear parts, etc., as shown in figure 1-3-24.

 

Former Baotou accounted for 213 of the length of the former gang.

The length of the shoe ear can be controlled by the multiple of the average eye position.

The average eye length is 11 to 12mm, and the length of the 3 eyes is 44 to 48mm.

Because the length of the shoe ears is shorter and the sense of volume in the overall shape is reduced, we should use the vertical line made by the length of the shoe ears to control the shape of the shoes ears, so that the ears of the shoes can "lift up the head" so that we can have the spirit.

We should pay attention to the design of the insurance leather. When the skin is bent back to the inside, it will become part of the rear arm. It should be used as a way to control the rear arc symmetry.

The width of the safety leather is about lOmm, and a middle line is made in the lOmm length of the upper arc of the back arc. Then the vertical line of the middle line is passed through the QQ point, and the symmetry of the left and right shoes is controlled by the semicircle, and a half insurance cover is designed with the length of 20mm.

The methods of making scribing boards and making templates are basically the same.