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    Design Of Outer Ear Shoes -- Design Features

    2010/6/7 14:51:00 184

    Outer Ear Upper

    The outer ear type shoes are the most widely used kinds of shoes in all kinds of shoes.

    Although there is only one word difference between outer ear shoes and inner ear shoes, the structure of the two shoes is quite different.

    The structure of the outer ear shoe is characterized by the front pressure of the front shoe, the functional structure, appearance and decoration of the shoe. The shoe ear is the center of the shoe. The design starts with the help of the shoes.



       

    Design features of outer ear shoes


    There are great changes in the shape of the outer ear shoes, but this change is only a combination of decomposition, which will not affect the inner structure of the outer ear shoes.

    Therefore, as long as we master the structural design features of a typical outer ear shoe, we can grasp all the design of the outer ear shoes.

    This is what we call inferences and inferences.



    Characteristics of 1. last type


    The design of male and female ear shoes should be based on men's and women's head last, and prime head last is suitable for designing all kinds of inner ear type, outer ear type bandage shoes and open type shoes.



    2. features of upper structure


    The biggest feature of the outer ear shoe structure is that the front press is pressed on the front side, and the rear part is kept intact. The design starts from the back Gang, and it starts from the ear shoes of the rear shoes.

    As for the position of the front part, it is found through the amount of stubble, which is derived from the contour line of the rear part, which is quite different from the inner ear shoe.



    How to control the position of external ear?

    In general, the position of the outer ear is controlled in the length of VE segment above the OQ line. If the shoe ears need to design 5 eyes, the length of the VE line must be designed. If you design 4 eyes, you can move the E position forward to lOmm, or you can move the V point back to lOmm. If you design 3, 2, 1 eyes, because the shoe ears are relatively short, you can move back and forth, so you need to use VE line length &frac12. Point is the reference. It mainly controls the position of the sun gate not exceeding 1 / 2 VE, if more than 1 / 2 VE points, it will cause the difficulty of wearing shoes.



    Characteristics of 3. components


    The design of the early external ear shoes is that people who are not able to wear the feet can not get in, and consciously reduce the upper edge of the shoe ears, so that the front point of the shoe ears will be around 5mm below 0.

    Now the development of people's foot type to thin type can use VE line to design the upper part of the shoe ear, so the front point of the shoe ear is located at or near the O point.



    As shown in figure 1-4-1, the shape of the two shoe ears is the same, but the design position of the shoes ear height is different. One feels fat and the other feels thinner.


     

     Design of outer ear shoes -- design features



    The front cusp of shoes ears is special, and the difference between the inside and outside should be generally made.

    If you look at the front of the shoe, you should see that the shoe ears inside and outside are symmetrical, especially the symmetry of the front cusp.

    But because of the difference between the shape of the shoe last and the outer arms, the outer arms are gentle and upright. If the upper model is symmetrical, it will be asymmetrical on the last surface, and it will have the feeling of being wrong and falling.

    Therefore, it is necessary to adjust the position of the anterior cusp and improve the visual error.



    As shown in figure 1-4-2, the O1 point is the front cusp of the outer Huai, and the O2 point is the front cusp of Li Huai.

    The position of the O2 point should be 2 to 3mm ahead of the O1 point and 3 to 5mm.

     Design of outer ear shoes -- design features
     

    If you measure the length of JQ on the last surface, you will find that the last surface of your heart is 2 to 3mm longer than that of the last one. This is because the metatarsophalangeal joint of Li has a higher body in the back, so that the surface becomes longer.

    If the length of the back of the template is equal, it will become shorter when compared to the last surface, so the position of the O2 point should be lengthened.

    It doesn't matter if you have the same length of JQ inside and outside the last surface, because the whole shoe last is bent to the inside, and the front will not feel bad.



    The upper side of the upper side has a more upright body arrangement, and the outer arms are relatively gentle. If the length of the inside and outside of the model is equal to the length of the back midline, it will have a feeling of falling when placed on the last surface, because at this time, the reference points of the sensory judgment position are the sides of the last bottom edge rather than the back midline, so we need to raise the 02 points of the Huai's arms to achieve the visual balance.

    Generally, it should be increased by 3 ~ 5mm or higher according to the last face.



    It should be noted that this adjustment is only adjusted by feeling. Some of the last gap will be 10 to 15mm. If the data are adjusted according to this data, the template itself is skew, but it will expose defects, so we should treat it rationally.

    Similar situations will often be encountered when designing shoe covers, and appropriate adjustments should be made to the model.



    The outer ear type shoes belong to the dark door structure, and the location of the door must be found through the vertical line of the back midline of the back door width O'point.

    The location and width of the door determine the size of the shoe, which is directly related to the convenience of wearing.



    For example, the use of female shallow shoe last shoe design full of outer ear shoes, will cause the foot can not wear in, because the width of the door is too small, causing the width of the mouth is smaller, the direct reason is that the shoe last's circumference is too small, so can not use the wrong shoe last.

    If the lath of the shoe last is normal, but the width of the shoe is not big enough, it will still cause problems that the foot can not get into.



    The O'point is also the center point of the pick up. Its location is on the break line of the front side.

    After the design is finished, after the help, the contour line can be used to find the front pressure line, then move along the front press line from the bottom to the top. The distance from the outside shoe ear to the 15 to 20mm position is the width of the mouth, which is also the O'point of the center.



    Through O'point, the vertical line of the back midline is intersected at V' point, which is the location of the dark door.

    O'V "the length of the line is the width of the shoe.

    Generally speaking, the V point position of the door does not affect the wear and tear of shoes before the 1 / 2 VE line. See figure 1-4-3.

     Design of outer ear shoes -- design features
     

    As shown, the 0'V line is the width of the gate.

    With the shape of the back, the front position, the shoe line, plus a shoe tongue, the structure of the outer ear shoe has a general look.

    Of course, it is necessary to take the stilt angle to achieve the purpose of the last.


     

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    4. characteristics of inlay connection


    The shoe ears of the outer ear shoes are directly pressed on the front support, but the shoe tongue is directly connected to the front door, so when handling the stilts, it is necessary to add the stilling angle between the front tongue and the front tongue, which is different from the inner ear type shoes.

    The position of the broken tongue is also the place to take off.

    So how big is the angle?



    In the design of the long ear shoe, the method of finding an equal quantity instead of an angle is adopted.

    It is still necessary to find an equal quantity instead of an angle.

    The specific operation is to take the O point as the center of the pick and draw the big arc with the tongue length O 'V1 line as the radius.

    After connecting VO'V, the angle is intersected with the big arc, and the arc length corresponds to the equivalent substitution angle.

    If the size of the angle is replaced by the size of the angle, the V2 point will be obtained after the V. point, so that the VO'V'= angle V1O'V2 can be obtained.

    Under normal circumstances, the design of outer ear shoes still adopts positioning and picking.



    As shown in figure 1-4-4, "V1O'V2" is the positioning and taking off angle, and the V1O'V2= V1O'V2= VO'V''O "V" wide line is not the place to take off, but also the reference point for taking off position.

    The general break line moves slightly back 5 to 7mm, hidden under the shoelace.

     Design of outer ear shoes -- design features
     

    Although it is convenient to use the positioning and taking off, the stilling angle is pressed under the ear of the shoe and locked by the locking line.

    When the tension is lifted, the corner should be unfolded, and the back midline will fall when the pick angle is unfolded. It will also lead to a drop of 01 and 02 of the front point.

    Therefore, if we do not move 01 and O2 points, we will appear "dead fold" under the ears of shoes.

    Therefore, when calibrating the rules of connection, we should move 01 and 02 points.



    How large is the movement of O1 and O2 points?

    Take the O'point as the center, take the distance between the O1 and O2 points as the radius, and the arc length which is intersected with the sew angle is the amount of movement, and the location of the movement is also on the arc.

    The use of arcs can certainly determine the change of O1 and O2 points, but it is rather cumbersome.



    The simple way is to put the front template on the scribing board after taking out the basic template, then use the O'point as the center to rotate the front support to align the door line of the template to V1O'.

    At this point, you will find that the back line of the front line is down, the corner is pferred to the bottom, and the front wings will exceed the groove.

    At this point, fix the front template, flip the scribing board, and mark the front point marks on the front.

    Then remove the front template and make the difference between the inside and outside.



    Even if O1 and O2 point positioning is very accurate, when the current is pulled down, the shoe ears will move downward, showing that there is a 3mm gap between the two ears on the finished shoes, which is different from the inner ear type shoes, and the two ears of the inner ear shoes are homogeneous.

    This is because the front back of the outer ear shoe is longer than the inner ear shoe, and has a larger gap when it is on the back of the shoe.

    The front gangs were pulled down, and the gap was attached to the last surface. The shoe ears also moved downward, causing a gap between the two ears. This is a normal variant.



    5. changes in the shape of shoe ears


    The design of outer ear shoes is mainly on the modeling of shoes ears.

    The specific location of shoe ears, the length of shoe ears, the shape of shoes and ears, the number of shoes and ears, the combination of shoes and ears, and the connection of two shoe ears are all elements that change the ear of shoes.

    The specific choice of the changes should also be considered according to the last type of head and customer needs.



    As shown in figure 1-4-5, the shape of the shoe ears is round, pointed, flat, big, small, long and short, and shoes eye positions are very common from 1~8. The shoe ears inside and outside can also be connected with auxiliary parts such as drill band, Velcro, rubber band, etc.

    The position of the front point of the shoe ear is convenient and suitable for wide wear. If the position of the front point of the shoe ear is moved backward, the slender feeling of the shoe can be increased.

     Design of outer ear shoes -- design features
     

    If you have mastered the choice of the shoe type of the outer ear shoe, the structure characteristics of the shoe, the positioning and taking off method, the connection between the parts, the modeling changes of the shoe ears, and the design experience of the inner ear shoes, you can design the outer ear type shoes.

    The following example is just repeating the characteristics of the design of outer ear shoes, and guiding how to grasp the rules of structural design.



    Before the design, we first appreciate the color C series.

    This is a set of outer ear shoes. The common feature of the outer ear shoes is that the shoe ears are pressed on the front edge. Because the shoes and ears are not subject to the constraints of the front, the design position, shape, length, and shoe ear connection mode are relatively free, and form various changes.



    The color picture C-l is an external ear gentleman's shoes. The shoes are upright and full of shape. The arrangement of 5 eyes is very formal and solemn.

    Among them, the use of red jujube has increased the sense of stability and mystery, and the clothing that can match it is not ordinary, which improves the grade of shoes.



    The color picture C-2 is a leisure outer ear shoe, starting from E point to design shoes ears, arranging 4 eyes, can increase the length of front shoes.

    The false line and the lock line are succinct, and the rear package increases liveliness. The texture of the lychee grain is soft and intimate, and the soft mouth wrapped with the instant noodles makes it very comfortable to wear.



    The color picture C-3 is a typical external ear shoe with 3 eyes. The longer ear shoes can increase the eye position, and the shorter ear shoes can reduce the eye position.



    The color picture C-4 is a kind of outer ear type belt shoes. Instead of shoelaces, shoes are designed with simple shoes. It has only 3 parts, namely, front, back and rear reinforcement. The shoes are positioned behind, the front body is lengthened, and the rear body is very compact.



    The color picture C-5 is a sport outer ear shoe, the mouth door position is relatively close, convenient to wear, 6 eye position has increased the ability of binding feet.

    The heel is wrapped with instant noodles, and the design method of sports shoes is adopted. The fastness of the side line is enhanced, especially the rough pattern of the sole, which is suitable for hiking in the wild.



    The color picture C-6 is an outer ear type mesh sandals, slender toe ends, pointed shoes and ears.

    In order to facilitate the processing, the irregular edges of the net leather are covered by parts.



    The color picture C-7 is a square corner outer ear shoe. The shoe ears are not modified to press directly on the upper, which appears to be very simple. The use of long after shoes increases the grade of shoes. The matching with the former Baotou adds to the dynamic feeling of shoes.



    The color picture C-8 is a three quarter head outer ear shoe. The former Baotou and the later gang used the decoration of the flower holes to make it look elegant.



    The color picture C-9 is a swallowtail Baotou style three quarter head outer ear shoes, although also uses the flower hole decoration, but the suede leather application makes the shoe to look gentle and kind, has one kind of relaxed free feeling.

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