Men'S Wear Innovator

 

Bleaching holes, low waist Jeans Tight fitting Man's suit Daily wear vest Gorgeous leather shoes Designer Sportswear Nowadays, fashionable men's wardrobes are more or less affected. Dolce &Gabbana Influence. Current Xie On the men's wear week, this pair of design partners ushered in the 20th anniversary celebration of their men's wear. Their mature, sexy and masculine style of men's wear has long been popular. At the same time, the United States Designer Thom Browne is looking forward to his debut in the men's wear week. His signature design is "shrink suits" - sleeves, clothes or trouser legs are shorter than ordinary suits. Will this unprecedented standard of suit size change the appearance of men's clothing in the next 20 years? The Sicilian tailor and sexy star D o m e n IC o D OLC E and St e are still very fortunate that at the end of the 1980 generation, they did not empower their own brand to a Menswear manufacturer. "A friend who worked in the L Uomo Vogue said to us," don't easily authorize yourself to do it! " Gabban recalls that they soon found that it was not difficult to make men's clothing. "We already have women's wear lines. Now we just need to design clothes for these women's husbands, boyfriends, fiancee, father and brothers. Besides, we know very well what we like to wear. "

　　
At that time, Dolce He was tired of having to go to the priest's clothing store to pick up black clothes all the time. Gabba_na wanted his tailor to make him a tight enough white shirt. "The white shirt I want is much tightier than the existing ones on the market. We named it Gabbana shirt. It's still in my closet, and I still wear it from time to time. Dolce&Gabbana men's clothing was born this way. Today, men's clothing lines occupy almost half of the $1 billion 960 million brand, and they are even stronger than women's clothing when the recession hits.

　　
In order to celebrate the birth of men's wear line 20th anniversary, Dolce&Gabbana 2011 spring and summer men's wear series brings together the leading male model lineup of the industry and all the logo designs of the brand - Double Breasted suits, knitted sweaters, laced pants, sports vest and tight shorts. This is the most typical man's suit in the world: sexy, mature, masculine, or this is the definition of Dolce &Gabbana.

　　
The great influence of Dolce&Gabbana men's clothing comes from the emphasis on real wear. They hold many masculine makings, and fashioned football stars into fashion heroes, all in order to tell ordinary men that you can wear them.

　　
    Harvey Nichols Richard Johnson, Menswear purchasing manager of department stores, said that the casual wear of Dolce &Gabbana completely dominated the menswear window of the high street brand, such as the spring and summer blue and white casual wear suit, and the everlasting deep V collar T-shirt and tight swimming trunks.

　　
JeremyLangmead of Esquire thinks that Western-style clothes are their essence. "From waist line to trouser legs emit a subtle and mature sexy." Hearing this, Domenico Dolce, the son of Sicily tailor, must be very happy.

　　
Q: looking back at the photos of your first men's show in 1990, what's the biggest change now?

　　
A: it can be said that everything has changed, and it can be said that it has not changed. 20 years ago, the proportion of men's clothing was different from that of today. But from the beginning, the men's clothing we designed had our imprint. If we find the design formula of women's wear for 4 seasons, we will be more confident in men's wear. We know that he is a passionate Mediterranean man who can be identified at once. Looking back at those pictures, we can not help but sigh how bold and fearless we were.

　　
Q: what is your biggest contribution to men's clothing?

　　
A: tailoring. At first, we had problems with our physical cultivation, especially in the United States, where men were very relaxed. The change is because men who wear our brands start fitness and pursue healthier lifestyles. They want to look more sexy. Once you have a good figure, you must show it. In 1980 and 1990s, fashionable men's clothing was also considered a patent for homosexuals and weirdo. The change took place at the end of 1990s. Football stars have great influence on men's clothing. Men feel that if he can wear them like that, I can do that.

　　
Q: what influence does Sicilian style have on your men's wear design?

　　
A: there used to be two typical dressing styles for men in Sicily: every Sunday the village and the farmer and the nobility were dressed up to church. They are equally attractive to us because we all see dignity in these two classes. What matters is a person's attitude towards life. Therefore, our men's wear series is always mixed with the feeling of the poor and the rich, such as the mix of the sweater, the hole jeans and the fine cut. British style also has a great influence on our design, because we are obsessed with the unique taste. The Englishmen have a crazy and natural tone, as if they flow in their blood. Just as Italians do everything perfectly, the British are the opposite.

　　
Q: do you have your own shadow in your men's clothes?

　　
A: if you see the little V collar, that's Domenico, if it's a round collar - Stefano. Sexy and tight is also Stefano, the big is Domenico. However, this is not entirely our own clothing preferences, but we think men should wear them like this. This is style, not fashion.

　　
Q:Domenico, your father was a Sicilian tailor. What did you learn from him?

　　
A: I grew up in my father's workshop, playing with cloth samples instead of toy soldiers and cars. What impressed me most was the quality of cloth, color, cutting, the concentration of tailors, and their relationship with their guests.

　　
Q: how do you implement excellent cutting in mass production of garments?

　　
A: starting with sketching, the quality of the garment can be obtained through the ultimate concentration of the entire production process. I study proportions, details and everything on the sample. The only thing that can not be reproduced in industrial production is the one to one relationship between tailors and customers, but we can make up for it by using services in shops.

　　
Metamorphosis of suit

　　
The design career of Thom Browne started with modifying the antique suit himself. He tightened the size of each part and shortened it, creating an unprecedented proportions. This is the rudiment of "habi suit" in the Cathy Horyn mouth of Fashion Critic in the future. And he called it "Shrunken Suit".

　　
In 2001, Thom Browne took his own 5 sets of "shrink suits" in the business of starting a business. He acted as a model himself, used his apartment as a studio and exhibition room, and borrowed money from relatives to open a shop. But in the first two years, even his friends told him that the suit was neither fashionable nor fit.

　　
The controversy over "Thom Browne's suit has only been his own wear" has existed so far, but this does not prevent him from winning the 2006 best fashion designer's Award for men's wear.

　　
There is no doubt that Thom Browne has brought a new look to men's wear in the United States. In an unexpected way, he changed the conservative twentieth Century 50s and 60s suit into a new style that makes young men palpitate. It is also a small version, but it is different from Raf Simons and Heidi Slimane. The design of Thom Browne always emphasizes the contour of masculinity. "This is definitely not your father's suit," he said, but their inspiration really came from this. Western-style clothes are men's uniforms. He seriously believes that this is not intended to change. However, he thinks that most men's suits are too loose. He wants to redefine a set of "fit" standards, not to pursue sexy and fashionable, but just as it should be. Matching shirts, sweaters, coats and ties must conform to the new standards. Thom Browne built up his men's clothing kingdom in this way.

　　
In the eyes of the public, the release of Thom Browne may be more popular than his men's design concept. Whether it is his series of names or the GammeBleu series designed for Moncler, the theme of each show is unique: Circus, office, barracks, tennis courts and bicycles, although the grey suit is the core of his eternal design, but in the show, it will be covered with rose ornaments, a transparent coat with sofa covers, or three legged trousers, skirt shorts, or even gauze skirts.

　　
This season, he adopted the theme of space in the debut of men's clothing week. When the men removed their helmets and removed their spacesuit, they displayed the uniform ThomBrowne size suit and knee breeches, and the designer himself was no exception.

　　
Q: you often wear a gray suit. Your design also has a sense of uniform. What does that mean?

　　
A: everyone wears a suit to go to work. In clothing, too many choices are not necessarily a good thing. I do not read magazines, because I prefer not to care about changes in the trend so as not to generate self doubt.

　　
Q: what is the design concept of your suit?

　　
A: This is definitely not your father's suit. But their quality and tailoring may be as good as those of the 1950s antiques. I designed shorter pants so that people could get to know their suits again with some details. I want young people to be interested in suits and make them feel that they may also be able to wear such suits.

　　
Q: your design is inspired by the suit worn by American men in 50s and 60s twentieth Century. But was the suit so tight at that time?

　　
A: in my impression, the president's suit is very short, but in fact it is not so short. His trousers are not very tight. Just in my mind, this image has changed.

　　
Q: your "shrink suit" seems hard to wear?

　　
A: most men wear too loose. In fact, wearing a Western-style suit is more comfortable than wearing a big suit. When someone tried on my suit for the first time, I always told them, "no, this fits me well." My size standard is different from general, but you can choose according to the degree of tightest you can accept.

　　
Q: your release shows are always creative, including show layout and modeling. Is this a way to attract eyeballs?

　　
A: for me, in fact, the core of every season is the grey suit. My design is very serious, not to pursue dramatic effects. Every design has its own reasons. Even the three trousers trousers are not to be astonishing, but to arouse people's thinking.

　　
Q: Why did you move the show from the bar this season?

　　
A: more attention can be paid to the show. Moreover, the spring and summer men's wear week started in June, and in September, it's good for sales. In June and July, the order was finished, and then the production was started, because the new goods should be on the shelves in December.

　　
Q: what dress suggestions do you have for men?

　　
A: men are too lazy. I often see women dressed up with slovenly men. This is embarrassing, and the couple are no exception. The clothes of the people do not seem to fit. Politicians seem to feel that they should not wear better than voters, rather than "I should dress up because this is what people would like to see."

　　
Men should be clear about what clothes are suitable for themselves, and then stick to this line. At the same time, I also think that men should not be overdressed. In the past, I often saw a cool old gentleman on the street. He dressed very carefully and properly, but he didn't overexert himself. The key is that you can't keep up with fashion.