100 Gentlemen Have 100 Styles.

 

For fashion editors, short men's week to four days means a lighter schedule. But in Paris or Milan, the trend of the new season is not easy to analyze because of the small number of shows. Formal or casual, business or experiment, color, or black and white, loose or narrow, the designers speak their own opinions, but no voice is loud enough to cover all other voices. There are indications that the design of men's wear has come to the crossroads.

Men's wear week has not been so busy for a long time. When Thom Browne first came to Paris, JilSander moved to Florence, plus MonclerGamme Bleu and Alfred Dunhill, which had been rejuvenated by personality designers, and Ermenegildo Zegna and Dolce&Gabbana, which held the anniversary celebration, made the climax of this season more frequent. However, many of the experienced buyers including Sarah Rutson, who were interviewed outside the show, shook their heads, saying: "this is not the best season." The continuous innovation of fabrics and the strong performance of casual clothes, though satisfied with most of them, are not enough to make them feel excited.
　　
For fashion editors, an average of four days of men's wear week means a lighter schedule. But in Paris or Milan, the trend of the new season is not easy to analyze because of the smaller number of shows. In terms of style, formal clothes obviously lose their status (which shows the disappointment of the fashion world to Wall Street). Sporty sleeveless shirts, shorts and wide legged trousers have sprung up, swimsuits are gone, replaced by untimely leather and more jackets. In terms of profile, influential brands including Rick Owens, Raf Simons, Prada and Lanvin choose elongated lines to make the outline more slender, but this is only a small attempt. Generally speaking, 2011 spring and summer is a chaotic season. Formal or casual, business or experiment, color, or black and white, loose or narrow, the designers speak their own opinions, but no voice is loud enough to cover all other voices. There are indications that the design of men's wear has come to the crossroads.
　　
Perhaps the designer's self doubt is due to the double standards of retailers and editors. In the past few seasons, they have appealed for more pragmatic designs and more diversified choices. Now, when this request is finally answered, they complain that the new series of standards is as high and low as the temperature in Europe, and the trend is more difficult than tomorrow's weather. Faced with a house of difficult viewers, designers seem to be in a dilemma. At the end of the JunyaWatanabe sailing Theme Conference, many of the audience said that the designer had compromised with the sale and lost the edge of the past. And in the EmporioArmani's leather show, they also disliked the Armani who had consistently kept the book.
　　
In the final analysis, who designed the designer? Is it to stick to your intuition, to give back to customers, or to please the choosy editor? Is it traditional or bold? This season, different people took different paths. Dries VanNoten was tired of her elegant image and had a taste of treason. Dolce&Gabbana lost his mind and returned to Sicily, and Raf Simons was also a historical review, but his past was a more unruly time. Among all the designers, V ronique ronique Nichanian of Herm s seems to be the most relaxed person in mind. She plays low profile and light with light color. It seems that all other designers are worried about her.

Conservative
　　
What is the purpose of fashion designers? You might say that it is creating new trends. Generally speaking, this is indeed the case, but Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana do not see this in the past two years. Whether they are women's wear or men's clothing, they all make up their minds to go back to the past and to emphasize their original position again and again. If you have today's success, sometimes you want to stop and eat your old books.
　　
In Dolce & Gabbana's 2011 spring and summer men's wear series, audiences saw many old faces. From 20 years ago, endorsed the brand's first men's clothing Tony Ward, to ChristianMonzon, Enrique Palacios, TysonBallou, Evandro Soldati and David Gandy and other models, each of them awaken people's memory. The new series itself is also a collection of classic images of fashion houses, leading the audience back to Sicily, the home of designer Dolce. The elegant white pure linen three piece suit is the daily dress of the Lords. The black version of the same section is a bit like the good clothes that the tenants are wearing when they worship at the fief. The two show the perfect tailoring. Vest, loose knitted sweater, jeans with rope as waistband - every single item is a consistent symbol of brand sexy style. In a nutshell, Dolce &Gabbana has moved out of the past 20 years to do something for them.
　　
Compared with the 20 year old Dolce & Gabbana, the "century old man" Ermenegildo Zegna has been in the same style for 100 years. This time it is no accident. It has launched a new series suitable for everyday wear, from work to leisure, from vacation to sports, covering all aspects. Suits are tailored, but not too much. The colors are mainly blue, brown and ochre. Obviously, this centenary gentleman is still very satisfied with his image. Canali is also a summer dress series made up of shrubs, greyish brown and greyish mustard green shrubs. It represents the determination of the brand to continue to take the Italy gentleman's route.
　　
SalvatoreFerragamo, another veteran fashion house in Italy, has no plans to change. Massimiliano Giornetti, the design director of the brand menswear, chose the southern France as a source of inspiration in the summer, and the soul writer was Fitzgerald, the American writer who took his wife in summer in Vieira in 1926. The white double breasted coat, lined with navy blue Lapel shirt, is covered with blue legged trousers and two colored shoes. It reminds us of Gatsby, the most famous writer.

New trend
　　
Men's footsteps have always been slower than women's wear, which has become more and more in the past two years. Cathy Horyn, a fashion critic of New York Times, complained: "I don't think men's clothing today can keep up with our imagination." But not everyone is willing to take the safe route. StephanoPilati has brought a new look to Yves Saint Laurent. He used his high waist trousers to match the waistband trim jacket, cut the waist of his suit jacket into a waist jacket, and put an animal pattern knitted wide belt around his waist. Since it was hired in YvesSaint Laurent in 2004, Pilati has been trying to find its place with the original style of the fashion house.
　　
Giorgio Armani, who loves the classic route, recently designed a costume for the global tour of Lady Gaga, and sent the S&M wind to the extension platform of Emporio Armani by the way. The dark male models of the eye are wearing leather fur trousers, decorated with chains, rivets and metal rings. The whole series is particularly young.
　　
Balenciaga, who has been experimentation for a long time, combines sports elements with 1970s prints, and has launched a futuristic style series, including chrome yellow trousers, white tops, hand-painted zebra trousers and shirts, quilted nylon zippered tops and black and white leather blouses. The Riccardo Tisci, which is good at Gert's route, is still a black and white series for Givenchy. Pure white lace and sexy animal prints constitute the two major design elements. The designer cleverly combines the two opposite elements: the hollowed lace on the white shirt forms the leopard pattern, and the moire corrugation on the black suit is also true. Both shorts and leggings match, and dress like tailoring - Tisci has successfully developed half street semi salon style to its own logo.
 

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order
　　
American photographer Robert Frank took a lot of American social picture in the 50s of last century. Through the wearing of black and white, neat lines and perfect cuts, we can see a kind of attempt to strive for order, refinement and elegance after the war.
　　
We have not experienced the world war, but the current social atmosphere is calling for order. Faced with a series of natural and man-made disasters, a simple suit has been unable to solve the problem. There are too many things to attract eyeballs. From the new generation of iPhone to the newly completed concept buildings, there are countless competitors in suits. Fashion industry is a stereotyped industry. In order to catch up with the world, a truly successful fashion must infuse itself with iPhone like characteristics.
　　
This time, many fashion houses try to elongate the clothing lines while still using the standard uniform styles and fabrics, especially cotton. The opening style of Prada is a typical three button suit, with white shirt and tie, a traditional businessman face. Rick Owens shows a series of slender and plain windbreaker. The color is black and white, the shoulders are crisp and the sleeves are tight.
　　
Perhaps the depressed economy has made designers aware of the importance of hard work. Apart from bankers' suits, all kinds of work uniforms and even blue collar uniforms are also popular. The first men's wear series designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen is very low-key. Although the red and gold brocade jacket and the cinnabar red dress jacket point out the theatrical features of the fashion house, the fishermen's sweater sweater and the black washed fur lined motorcycle jacket are more striking. Postmen, sailors and dentists appeared on the Prada platform. Miuccia Prada explained in the backstage that she wanted to be as concise as possible regardless of fabric, structure or shape. So she used cotton fabric, the world's most durable durable fabric, and there were many denim, so we saw the three button suit jacket made of denim.

vitality
　　
In pursuit of a sense of order, the comfort of gentlemen is not ignored. A lot of loose design appeared in the new season, especially on shorts. Dolce & Gabbana seemed relaxed and comfortable, and Calvin Klein took the sport route. Paul Helbers, LouisVuitton's menswear design director, uses Khaki Shorts, parachute jackets and white linen sets to highlight travel themes. If this topic sounds old-fashioned, then Junya Watanabe's sailing style is nothing more than a windbreaker jacket, light blue and light red, striped plus sailboat shoes. However, the two fashion houses succeeded in making new bottles in old bottles: the former relies on Monogram digital printing in ancient Chinese tattoo style, while the latter is won by a light blue double breasted cowboy jacket and white trousers and laced shoes.
　　
It can be predicted that men will be more free to choose outdoor activities in the next summer. If Prada's big trouser legs are "dentists" to add a few sportsmen's temperament, Jil Sander's Boxer Shorts emanate the health aroma of the American youth. In the MonclerGamme Bleu show, the spectators can almost see the reflection of the tire steel ring on the tour de France. Zipper match tops and shorts play the leading role. The hem of the upper back is loose, allowing the wearer to act freely. Designer Thom Browne chose a series of fresh Naples ice cream for this series, and finally returned to the classics, ending with a black motorcycle jacket. The Browne style shorts that go all the way can almost match any single coat, and the combination of Leggings printed with bicycles is unexpected. In reason, it has become the highlight of the new series with lightweight coats, which is expected to be sought after by sports men.

black and white
　　
In Paris, Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons and Herm s released a great deal of white, which swept away the heavy feeling of Milan a few days ago, which brought a long time out of the spring and summer refreshing. Although there are some streamlined suits that are more like surgical surgeons than pretending, it is certainly deliberate. Simons took a pair of scissors for suits and sportswear operations, cut off sleeves and lapel, the back part of the jacket was cut from it, and then zipped, and finally attached a tie.
　　
Black and white is always the main theme of Dior Homme and RickOwens. In an empty white space, Kris Van Assche staged another "unbearable lightness of life". The lightweight black fabric hung on the body in the most poetic way, the neckline was cut very low, and the hem was kept long. Owens's lines are as slender as ever. The models wear black and crotch trousers from head to toe, like a group of pagans. The only pattern of the whole group is a group of black and white OPPLE prints in 1960s. It was discovered by a designer in a building in Berlin.

color
　　
Choose to avoid Milan fashion week's Jil Sander, this season's show location is located in Florence's Canton berya manor. The manor, built in sixteenth Century, is famous for its unique garden design. Historians have written and analyzed the ingenious color transition of plants in the garden. In the background of the above greens and the gray sky on the eve of the storm, Raf Simons released a color themed series. However, the color palette made by Simons does not come from the natural world. Instead, it resembles the chemical reagents in the laboratory: striking Fluorescent Pink and electric blue, orange, purple and dark red with high saturation. The stripes color jacket is reminiscent of Frank Stella's paintings.
　　
Simons said: "this series is to make" Jil "present his original appearance - easy to dress and highlight colors. You know, it is not easy to let natural fabrics display the depth and concentration of colors. These seemingly simple clothes still contain very high technical content. Because color is the highlight of the series, Simons sacrificed complex outlines and styles. The basic T-shirt, short sleeved T-shirt and waist windbreaker are coloring with strong contrast effect and visual impact is unusual. Coincidentally, Prada also played the crash game in the knitted sweater at the end of the conference.
　　
For a long time, the "weapon" that designers set for themselves is nothing more than fabric, tailoring and collocation, but the role of color is more and more important. We can use designer's color to divide it into two camps, that is, to make good use of colors and make good use of black and white.
　　
In Milan, blue stands out from numerous chromatography and becomes the main color system. Prada and Gucci coincidentally introduced a group of deep blue, from the fading blue jeans, the sky blue on the shirt to the rich Klein blue (more than 50 years ago, French artist YvesKlein was famous for showing 8 Blue works of the same size, and the name "Klein blue" was named after that. In Frida Giannini's view, "blue can create a kind of deliberate elegance." Silk printed shirt and decorating Morocco Style Bead Jean, inspired by the Playboy Paul Getty in 1970s.

sexy
　　
In the past, men learned how to dress by watching movies. If there is no police net diamond, who will wear a turtleneck sweater underneath a fur coat like Steve McQueen? Fashion is originally a prop to show character. For example, Clark Gable in the night wind is the kind of person who never wears T-shirt. But now it's all about movies. "Single man" is almost the same as Tom Ford's catalogue. This may explain why it affects men's dresses now or those films decades ago, such as the American dancer in 1980.
　　
Dsquared's conference reproduced the scene of the American dancer, from the Richard Gere training rings to the narcissism's French deck chairs and floor mirrors. Dean and Dan Caten never miss the opportunity to portray typical male sex symbols. Scouts, cowboys, locomotives and truck drivers used to appear on their T platforms. This time, they obviously did not mind that the "dancer" was inextricably linked to another brand of Giorgio Armani. Blue T-shirt with white high waist trousers and suede shoes, pink shirt with jeans, the point is, collar without exception is open, showing a strong chest.
　　
Caten brothers may be too straightforward, but they are not the only designers who are crazy about the style of "dancer". As a matter of fact, the image of the dandy is all over the great show in Milan. Ermenegilo Zegna, Bottega Veneta, Gucci and SalvatoreFerragamo all leave charming figures, wearing a pair of double breasted suits and flanged tapered trousers, wearing hippy scarves, and Paisley's stripes on shirts.

romantic
　　
When explaining sexy, the starting point of Italy designers is still the golden age of Rome and the sweet life of 1960s, and their French colleagues often seek the lost romance in escaping from the world. Paul Helbers's Louis Vuitton new men's wear is the theme of travel. The destination is New York (Urban shorts and neck tattoos), Amazon (military uniform jacket and light parachute jacket) and China (Yin Youlong's Pattern Scarf). Victor&Rolf envisioned a 1940s movie star who came to Biya Liz for a holiday, wearing a bathrobe knitted jacket and shorts, or a waist belt suit. The Jean Paul Gaultier moved the Turkey bathroom onto the platform and cut the European style to the Arabia robe.
　　
John Galliano can always be inspired by something that looks like a horse and a cow. How many similarities between this season's new Mousika Chaplin and wisconti's "the death of Venice"? Fortunately, the white waist waist suit, loose crotch trousers and braces are all Galliano flavors, which make people memorable. The Dries VanNoten, which is seeking "new elegance", is full of a series of opposites: the heavy coat actually has only the weight of the yarn, the acid washed jeans are matched with the formal coat, and the inspiration comes from the street culture, but a lot of high-grade silk is used. The elegance of Lanvin is reflected in the dynamics of clothing. In this almost no line series, LucasOssendrijver allows sleeveless, lengthened jackets and sweaters to be filled with wrinkles. Deliberately untreated wiring makes garments unfinished.