2011 Spring And Summer Men'S Wear Trend Graceful Suits Return To T Station.
Buyers from all over the world generally say that Paris men's clothing week has more new things than Milan men's wear before.
Of course, this statement is not unexpected. Innovation itself is the characteristic of Paris.
"Paris has given us no change in Milan, which is different, especially in fabric innovation."
Sarah Rutson, fashion director from lac Crawford department store in Hongkong.
The buyers were delighted to "receive" the new message brought by Paris men's clothing week, and they were confident that the order would be ready.
And Richard Johnson, Menswear purchasing manager of Harvey Nichols (Harvey Nikos) department store in England, I am afraid, has revealed the voice of all buyers: "brands are very innovative, and at the same time, they are careful to consider pricing at a reasonable and open price."
The balance between fashion and commerce is better than that on men's wear week in Paris.
Herm s (Hermes) is still taking a purely luxurious route. Lanvin (langwan) is challenging the profile and details. Louis Vuitton (Louis Weedon), Balenciaga (Paris family) and Balmain (Balmain), especially Louis Vuitton, make printing become the focus again.
Each brand's new series truly reflects their brand characteristics.
The alternation of formal and casual clothes, including different styles of coats and trousers, has also become an interesting phenomenon.
Suzy Menkes, a leading fashion critic, said: "blame bankers and hedge fund executives, not to mention politicians. They make people despise the word" suits ".
Fortunately, the theme of this season of men's clothing week in Paris brings smart casual clothes and makes people happy to accept suits again.
Following the last week of Paris men's wear, the designer's new proportion continues to challenge the audience's senses. This spring and summer, the display of men's arms and legs has also become the focus of designers' design.
New fabrics against dogmatism
Thom Browne, the American designer who first appeared in Paris men's wear week, put the show in the headquarters of the French Communist Party, the landmark of Paris's modernist architecture. The choice of the location was quite surprising, but the good play was yet to come.
20, astronauts dressed in white underwear and helmets came out and stood in front of the audience.
Under the command of "commander", these astronauts took off their spacesuits and revealed the Thom Browne (Thom Brany) 2011 spring summer series.
From the beginning to the end of the show, the model was made of two button suit and seemed to be a small size with tailored Bermuda shorts and knee length stockings.
The difference between every look is only the pformation of designers on fabrics, from gray flannel to various stripes, lattice Mashup, and shark fish pattern embroidery. Each set is a design and craft that will have market and someone will pay.
Cathy Horyn, a famous fashion critic of New York Times, said: "in today's flooded fashion world with Zara, Gap and other fast consuming brands, Thom Browne has conquered the world in its own way."
It can be said that this is the most commercialized season of Thom Browne, but smart he used uniform instead of most designer sportswear to show the characteristics of summer clothing's simplicity and leisure, but these uniforms are also different from traditional suits and have a sense of humor.
"Looking for a new elegance." is the leading idea of Belgian designer Dries Van Noten design 2011 spring summer series.
This series of inspiration comes from the early 70s of the last century. Designers combined the colors of gardens and desert with the gray and blue sky color, aiming at blending various colors rather than forming a strong contrast.
In addition to the tone, the mix and match of styles and opposites is also an important role this season. For example, suits are also full of formal sense, but they can be matched with loose casual shorts, or the key single item of this series -- the excessive bleaching jeans with the blue and white ratio of snowflake cowboys.
The carefully planned fabric "revolution" is also a magic weapon for Dries Van Noten to make the Wardrobe "coexist in winter and summer". The winter style coat is made of gauze like lightweight fabrics, such as tweed, which is actually nylon and cotton blended fabric. It is very light and even plucent. But the fluffy Ma Haimao is a new type of fabric with 90% flax ingredients, which is difficult to distinguish from far away.
No wonder Nick Wooster, Menswear fashion director from Bergdorf Goodman boutique, said: "the research and development of Dries Van Noten on fabrics has aroused my curiosity."
After watching the Louis Vuitton spring and summer show in 2011, fashion editors sighed that the seemingly holiday dress is actually a holiday dream hidden by the designer Paul Helbers in the reality of her work.
Excellent touch fabric, subtle texture changes, exquisite details, and bright colors with a certain eye-catching color to create a relaxed and comfortable Louis Vuitton spring summer travel costumes.
Following the spring and summer series of New York in 2010 and Vienna in 2010, the destination of Paul Helbers is New York, Amazon and China.
For the first two, Paul Helbers used ultra light parachute fabrics, military uniform structure and bright colors to build jackets, windbreaker and other jackets. But for China, the Oriental logo - dragon pattern is constantly appearing on silk scarves, shirts and coats.
In this regard, The Associated Press commented: "the use of Chinese techniques to polish travel costumes, so that the whole series of Oriental sportsmen, showing the brand aimed at growing Asian customers."
The creative use of high-tech fabrics and traditional silk also reflects the designer's good intentions in fabrics.
"Super avant-garde" reappeared in the past
The 2011 spring summer series of Yves Saint Laurent recreate the feelings of North Africa, founder of Yves Saint Lauren.
Designer Stefano Pilati is inspired by Morocco in the 40s of last century and Pau Bowles, an American writer who lived there for many years.
The soft Misha color, gray and black are the basic colors of the series. The traditional robe Jellaba of North Africa is modified with a belt and mounted on the T. Most of the coats are straps or belts. WWD commented: "there is no fancy style, but a graceful outline is built on a casual but fitting cut."
The dots and Stefano Pilati's favorite A-line shorts and other elements from women's clothing also become a bright spot, as Stefano Pilati said, in addition to exotic customs, to make it more "modern."
The brand of this year's birthday is quite a few, Ermenegildo Zegna's 100th anniversary and Kenzo's 40 birthday, and the Raf Simons, which is still quite young in the impression, has staged its 15th anniversary commemorative show in Paris men's wear week.
In the early 90s of last century, Raf Simons, the original industrial designer, was deeply impressed by her first fashion show, the bags-and-tapes series of Maison Martin Margiela, and was determined to switch to fashion design.
In the past 15 years, Raf Simons has proved its possibility to go so far in the men's wear market. He always challenges the tradition and deconstructs and reconstructs modern fashion. This time, he once again confirmed his central position in men's clothing with the advanced consciousness.
The combination of sleeveless jacket and super wide leg trousers became the main look of the show, and white, black, pink and pink came on stage.
The most experimental thing is the colourful giant zipper installed behind all kinds of big openings.
The Colette Sarah Larfel, founder of the French boutique, said: "this is not my understanding of Raf Simons.
Maybe I'm too old, but it's too immature for me. "
Some people think that maybe this is not mature enough, but very rare, because Raf Simons said before that he had too much emphasis on cutting and lost avant-garde in the previous few seasons.
After the show, GQ.com gave him the compliment of "Super avant-garde (super avant-garde)" without hesitation.
But to everyone's satisfaction and affirmation, the last few sets of zipper without "tricks" of Navy Blue 2 button suits, perfectly displayed the designer's self-confidence and taste.
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