A Successful Garment Maker Needs Two Kinds Of Judgement.

　　 We have always clothing The technology of plate making belongs to the ranks of clothing. Technology Science, clothing structure, ergonomics and clothing materials are all the garment making plates. Of course, as a successful print master, first of all, we must have exquisite technology. This is the fundamental, followed by keen judgement and the current fashion and fashion oriented fashion models. These are all prerequisites for successful print masters. However, "judgement" also plays a decisive role in garment plate making.

Whether the plane legal system, the stereoscopic cutting method, the two yuan legal system and the three yuan dynamic legal system need to undergo different judgments. When we get a design plan, we must first judge that the plate making process can be completed more quickly and accurately with that method. Usually, this is based on logical analysis, which is called second judgement. In making vertical and circumferent modeling lines, clothing modeling and modeling line and local modeling order, we can easily get the judgment based on intuition and spancendental judgment, which is called the first judgement.

The scope of first judgement and second judgement is different. The first judgment is metaphysical, which is determined by aesthetic and sensory thinking. It is the art of human being born or acquired. It has no scientific data and no rules. Second judgment tends to be metaphysical, which is generated by experience and learning, such as clothing technology, clothing structure, human engineering, clothing materials and other disciplines. It is expressive, mathematical and regular. It can be acquired through learning and practical work experience. In real life, we often encounter some type of dress fit, that is, the lack of visual dynamic and impact. But again, there is no problem, just the first judgment is not in place.

In the whole process of clothing plate making, what are the attribution of first judgement and attribution of second judgments? What are the positions between the first judgement and the second judgement? The most commonly used method in the actual work is the plane legal plate. This plate making method judges the stereoscopic segmentation effect through the plane, followed by the two yuan legal system version, which combines the plane with the stereo. This plate making method judges the stereoscopic segmentation effect through the plane and the local stereo. Once again, the stereoscopic cutting method is adopted. This method completely judges the stereoscopic segmentation effect through the three-dimensional judgment. Finally, the three yuan dynamic law plate, this kind of plate making method judges the stereoscopic segmentation effect through the human body dynamic three-dimensional. This method is almost useless in industrial plate making, usually in the production of special sportswear, with a dynamic version of three yuan, such as making ice skates and swimsuit, in order to reduce clothing resistance and human movement. The plane legal plate, the stereoscopic cutting legal system version, the two yuan legal system edition, and the three yuan dynamic legal edition are all superior and desirable. Here is a brief list of coat and skirt designs. Usually, the design manuscript is composed of a wear effect diagram and a plane effect diagram. The wearing effect diagram is used to judge the ratio of the line shape to the length of the garment, and the plane effect diagram is used to judge the shape and technological effect of the Western garment.

In the picture jacket coat:

(1) first of all, we should first use structural principles to determine which structure belongs to, which is obviously the four sides of the princess tablet. It has a split line above the chest and can handle the sharp part of the chest (second sense).

(2) judging the length of clothing by designing the wearing effect diagram, usually judging from the hip circumference (second judgement).

(3) the collar belongs to the open door collar, and the judging position is determined on the basis of the chest line. The height of the neckline is judged by the sleeve cage (second judgement). The size of the neckline and the judgement of the shape of the barbell head, especially the line on the collar of the upper collar, is called the structural line based on the human neck. The peripheral line is called the molding line, which is changed by the change of the structural line, and the judgment of the design needs (the first judgement and the second judgement).

(4) sleeves can be judged as a sleeve structure method (second judgement), slightly over the shoulder point of sleeve Hill fold size, sleeve width and sleeve fork length judgment (first judgement).

(5) the size of the fillet and the fillet angle of the front and lower sides of the pocket.

(6) while making the structure, it is necessary to judge the space between clothing and human body (second judgement).

Skirts in the picture:

(1) judge the length of skirt by designing the wearing effect diagram, usually judging on the basis of knee circumference line, for example, how many centimeters on the knee circumference, such as how many centimeters under the knee circumference (second judgement).

(2) judging the height of the waist by designing the wearing effect diagram, usually judging by the waist line (second judgement).

(3) the overlap of the front skirt is judged by the width of the human body (second judgement), while the slope of the molding line of the overlapping piece is judged (first judgement).

(4) the judgement of the size of the valgus (the first judgement), the cross of the waist should be judged on the basis of the waist line, and the aesthetic sense of the design (the first judgement and the second judgement).

Of course, in the whole process of garment making, the first judgement and the second judgement can not be lacking. Only with these two judgments, our clothing version is more humanized. The soul of the clothing version is fully reflected. These represent the superficial view of individual plate making.

Clothing plate making is a book that can never be finished. We have been working hard.