Where Is Men'S Wear Going?

Shi Jian Zi

It looks like Ma Su is catching up with the best time.

The young man who had just worked for two years got a chance to watch the men's wear week in Milan.

He is currently the largest fashion media group in China, and more than half of Chinese fashion editors who appear on major fashion week every year are from this group.

In addition to the brand he invited, Ma Su also held a bunch of other brand invitation cards. Chinese fashion editors are now very much concerned by brands. Sitting in the first row is nothing new. If the doorway or turn of the first row is counted.

The style of each fashion week is almost the same, except that the brand is not rich like women's wear week.

In Milan, for example, in the four day cycle, Milan is full of show or static exhibitions held by various brands.

Milan's geographical heart is Duomo Bishop's Cathedral, the church and the now luxurious shopping center Vitorio evereli II long corridor, Emmanuel S horse bronze statue of the big square, erecting huge electronic screens, constantly changing the video of the scene of the real men's flyover.

It takes the deep blue sky as the bottom, the spire of Gothic church as the contrast, the coarse male face of the group flying around pigeons, and two times a year, the picture has already had the place.

From the center of the Cathedral Square of Duomo bishop, there are a series of main roads extending to several old gates, then continuing to the suburbs and canals. There are no fixed bases in the ancient buildings hidden on the sides of these roads.

Another pleasure of fashion editor is to find the venue through the shuttle, Ma Su's first fashion week experience, all kinds of surprises or unexpected happens on the sidelines.

There are actually some buses between the venues, but the stay time is very short. Most editors who wear high heels do not despise the pursuit of buses, so as not to affect the shape. For them, fashion week is also a rare platform to show their taste.

"Watching shows is not a simple thing."

SuzyMenkes said that the most famous fashion editor in the world was watching the computer while taking notes.

Ma Su is very impressed. He needs to find the most representative design of the brand at the end of every issue. It's not easy.

Wu Yue, a colleague who has been running for 5 years, seems to be very stylized, but sometimes he will review himself and integrate himself into the system of Paris men's clothing week in Milan. It seems to imply complete assimilation of aesthetics and values, and lose the base of thinking. No matter how you comment, the tide is in the hands of a few designers.

Unfortunately, there are so many people who go to pilgrimage with their eyes closed, and few are aware of this.

Salute to the past

Dolce&Gabbana2011 the spring and summer men's show has a special meaning -- Celebrating the 20th anniversary release of Dolce&Gabbana men's wear.

The theme of the whole series is "sexy Sicily". It salutes the hometown of DomenicoDolce and shows the image of the southern Italy farmers and Sicily fishermen.

"We want to wear baggy trousers and large jackets."

The designer said.

The opening of the suit suits, the change of the layer sense of beige and white presents a refreshing and comfortable taste.

The fine flax and breathable flax fabric will perfectly blend elegance and comfort.

The grass rope sandals and rope belts appear in many places with a pleasing sedulous pleasure.

Lightweight water washed silk, hessian cloth and other raw fabrics, but also used all kinds of classic jeans.

The essential beach slippers in summer are characterized by cords or woven leather. The shirts are made of poplin or water washed cotton, with various colors such as black, white, milk or sand; from plain pants to bathrobes and pajamas, stripes are everywhere; fringes can be seen everywhere to decorate their jackets, motorcycle jackets and trousers.

Some designs create rebellious style with delicate fabrics and Avision highlights. Others take a steady route instead of conservative leather or raw cotton.

Another birthday is ErmenegildoZegna, 100 years old.

At the launch of this season, the successors of the second and third generations rose at the end of the show and bowed their thanks to the audience.

Indeed, in the history of ErmenegildoZegna, "family management" is the core of the Zegna Empire and the key to its success in the fashion industry.

In the Centennial review of Zegna, Zegna has a strong lineup in Milan in order to embody its supremacy in the men's clothing industry.

But to be honest, Zegna's relatively conservative brand will not have a particularly refreshing design, nor will there be any design with flaws.

This season's release is simple and relaxed, the three button jacket, the double breasted windbreaker style and the slender trousers. The overall style is fresh and natural. There is no new style, and it embodies the needs of the target customers by relying on bright colors and simple, elegant and comfortable style.

Practical men's clothing

Compared with the 2010 spring and summer and autumn winter men's clothing week, the deconstruction costumes weakened the grotesque heresy and became more pragmatic, and finally gave an attempt to ordinary people who deviate from the orthodoxy and pursue art.

But as in Yamamoto Teruji's dress label, "what is more annoying than wearing rules?"

On the T stage, too much emphasis on practicality can be seen in addition to a glimpse of the impact of the economic environment on the fashion industry. For the design itself, it is not necessarily a very good thing.

The men who came out in the SalvatoreFerragamo show proved that the men who wore "hunting wind and desert colors" will continue to be popular next year. While Burberry is using leather texture, the coat with shoulder straps seems to imply that the trend of military uniform is far from over. The BurberryProrsum of the BurberryProrsum is coming towards us with a thick motorcycle style. The street style is strong. Tight pants and carefully cut jackets are sold as leather and suede. EmporioArmani is more avant-garde than previous designs, full of black stimulation and leather temptation.

Prada has the coordinate significance to the direction of men's clothing, changes the proportion of clothing, integrates the forward-looking color, and ponders over how to integrate men's classic suits into contemporary clothes.

CalvinKlein's fondness for minimalist art and its sexy elements has been well known. But in this season's men's wear, creative director ItaloZucchelli seems to want to show her style.

The smooth suit, bright colors, new fabrics and enthusiasm for sports are popular in this season's men's wear.

The combination of sexy elements and sports elements into the design of sports T-shirt, but the use of inflatable sports fabrics makes people lose their imagination, which may be a great failure in this design.

Style game

This year's Milan Paris fashion week has coincided with the world cup for several days. It seems to be aimed at the "shaving will fail" in the world cup.

The beard man scene appeared on the first day of Paris men's wear week. It happened at JeanPaulGaultier's visual feast.

The French ghosts designer took us to a wet summer night in the Middle East of Marrakech. The model was dressed in Arabia style gowns and small cap, and the details were full of religious style.

JohnGalliano, who has always been able to get the topic, has paid tribute to Chaplin in this season to create a funny little moustache.

These interesting wild and undecorated masculinity are the typical trend of Paris men's clothing week.

However, if you look at all the releases, you will find it frustrating to see that the impact of the world cup is only a flash in the air. The trend of men's dress trend has not stopped since a few years ago.

In the first two quarters of the season, the naked hot wind, which no longer allowed ladies to be beautiful, became the popular spot for men's wear this season. From the naked vest of Givenchy to the first glance, it was not a half cut of trousers, and then a naked suit from YvesSaintLaurent low to the chest line. Men had never been so close to women.

The more visual attraction of the perspective dress, in this spring and summer men's wear design with a variety of GaspardYurkievich, under the white windbreaker with dark blue perspective shirt to create cool visual effects, Lanvin's close fitting effect deliberately create a sense of oppression, the waist is multi-layered overlay dazzling, as if directly from the women's Dress Chiffon in the inspiration.

Now, the main melody of spring and summer has come to the surface in the spring and summer. The well-dressed men, dressed in green materials and pursuing the retro sentiments of the 50s of last century, are undoubtedly remembering the glorious days of the past fashion world.

Some designers show a more futuristic trend in fashion week, but obviously more works seem to be coming from those classics. If we have to sum up, let's call them the true colors.