Nanjing Brocade Skills: The Tradition Of Royal Weaving In China.

[reasons for inclusion]

Nanjing

[Nanjing brocade skills]

The technology of Nanjing brocade survives the tradition of Chinese royal weaving.

In the thirty years of the Qing Dynasty, the weaving of Jiangning was abolished, and the official official weaving of Jiangning, which had undergone three periods of history in the yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, lasted for more than 620 years, and then ended. After the founding of new China, Nanjing brocade was reborn.

China is mulberry silkworm.

According to historical records, all the dynasties in the Southern Dynasties set up government offices in the central government organs. Under the control order, they were ruled by hand and knitted, and the Jin Department was under the jurisdiction of the Ping Zheng order.

The brocade workers in South Qi were well known all over the world.

In the literature of Yin Yun's novels in the Southern Dynasties, it is recorded that "there are Weaver girls in the east of the Tianhe River, and the sons of the emperor of heaven are also years of hard labor and weaving into cloud brocade celestial garments."

The author has revealed the exquisite artistry of the skillful woman by the myth. This is the first time that the name of Yun Brocade appeared in the literature.

After the end of the Sui Dynasty, the political and economic status of Jinling (Nanjing) was repeatedly demeaning and reduced to ordinary state and county departments.

The Tang Dynasty continued the policy of suppressing Jinling in the Sui Dynasty, and moved Yangzhou's metropolitan government from Jinling to Jiangdu. There were also thousands of residents, including silk workers.

At the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, Yangzhou was repeatedly subjected to war, and the economic center of gravity was gradually pferred to Jinling, a "western capital".

In the Southern Tang Dynasty, when Jinling was the national capital, the rulers rewarded the mulberry trees vigorously. Jinling once again became one of the centers of the silk weaving industry in the south of the Yangtze River. It also had official weaving, and the brocade craftsmen of Yangzhou also moved south across the river.

In the Northern Song Dynasty, the government attached great importance to Jinling's political and economic status.

After the Song Dynasty moved southward, the focus of Chinese silk production shifted to the south of the Yangtze River, especially in Nanjing.

The production of Nanjing brocade in the Yuan Dynasty was mainly carried out under the presiding and management of the official weaving organization.

The official weaving organization established in Nanjing in the Yuan Dynasty was called the East dyeing and dyeing Bureau and the West weaving dyeing Bureau.

In the past hundred years of the rule of the Yuan Dynasty, the scale of the Jian Kang weaving Bureau was growing day by day, which laid a good foundation for the development of silk weaving technology in Nanjing later.

In the Ming Dynasty, there were many official business weaving units, with a large number of management units, extensive distribution areas, and huge scale. But the focus of operation was in the south of the Yangtze River, with the focus of three areas: Nanjing, Suzhou and Hangzhou.

The official weaving in the Qing Dynasty was set up only in the capital city of Beijing and Jiangning, Nanjing, Suzhou and Hangzhou in the south of the Yangtze River.

In Guangxu's "Great Qing Dynasty Convention", "the house Treasuries collection" records: "Shunzhi early years, Royal dress, and four time clothes, each palace and Princess Royal dress, dressed in accordance with the Ministry of rites, pfer to Jiangning, Suzhou, Hangzhou three weaving progress."

The "Jiangning weaving house" specially designed in Nanjing is responsible for supplying a series of fabrics such as cloud brocade and makeup flowers and dragon robes and clothing for the Qing Dynasty.

The history of the three generation of Nanjing brocade in the yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties is the history of official weaving. In the Qing Dynasty, during the Kangxi and Jiaqing years, there were more than 30 thousand brocade looms in the city of Nanjing, and more than 20 people took the industry as an industry to produce millions of brocade products annually.

However, Guangxu's thirty years (1904) Jiangning weaving was abolished, "the festival was wasted". It experienced the three historical periods of the yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, and lasted for more than 620 years. Jiangning's official weaving business ended.

In 1912, after the establishment of the Republic of China, the feudal regime was destroyed, and the brocade of Nanjing lost its main service target. At the same time, because of the import of Western textiles such as high quality and low price textiles and serge, as well as domestic political turmoil and poor sales, the flourishing Nanjing Yun brocade industry was showing a depression.

The production of Nanjing brocade fell to the lowest point in history.

After the founding of new China, Nanjing Yun Brocade was reborn.

In 1957, Nanjing cloud brocade Institute was established, and Nanjing Yun Brocade went on the road of inheritance, protection and revitalization.

The Nanjing brocade artist created the loom brocade flower ring looms in fifteenth Century. Until now, modern machines are still unable to completely replace some of their unique craftwork. Yun Brocade is known as the living fossil of Chinese brocade crafts.

In the ancient Chinese ensemble jacquard machine, the most complicated and unique and perfect one was the loom made of Nanjing brocade artist in fifteenth Century.

This loom is 5.6 meters long, 1.4 meters wide, and 4 meters high, and is operated by two people. The two people are tacit coordination. They can only knit a few centimeters a day.

When weaving, the upper part of the machine floor is pulled up by the florist to lift the longitude line, which is equivalent to knocking on the computer keyboard. The weaving surface is downstairs equivalent to the screen, and the knitted hand applies the gold according to the meridian line.

{page_break}

The weaving technology of this kind of ensemble jacquard in Nanjing Yun Jin Hua Hua Da Hua Lou looms has been improved from the Warring States period to the Qin and Han Dynasties, especially in the Ming Dynasty. It has always been in the leading position until modern times.

At the end of the eighteenth Century, Europeans synthesized their predecessors' innovative achievements and invented a simple and reasonable jacquard loom. Modern silk weaving machines have been produced since then. However, until now, modern machines have not been able to completely replace some unique weaving processes of Yun Jin Hua Da Hua Lou looms, and Yun brocade is known as the living fossil of Chinese brocade crafts.

Nanjing brocade in the weaving process, dragging flowers and weaving hands to sing, and eventually formed a local flavor of the quyi variety - Nanjing white Bureau.

The manual skills and folk poetry techniques handed down from these dynasties summed up the experience of artists for thousands of years and showed that the traditional craft of Nanjing brocade is full of vitality.

Up to now, there are hundreds of formulas for pattern design, hand stitching and manual weaving.

Another characteristic of Yun Jin makeup is "weaving".

"Weaving" is a finished weaving form of traditional jacquard silk fabric. It is also a design method of traditional silk weaving patterns, and is the most difficult fabric of ancient brocade weaving technology.

The emperor's Dragon Robe is woven in the form of "weaving". It is a large "weaving" made in ancient and modern times. It is designed according to the figure of the emperor's tall, short, fat and thin, and the pattern is arranged. The whole design is carried out according to the collar, sleeves, buttons, front and rear bodies, knee columns and other corresponding patterns. From the beginning to the end, the patterns are different, and after the weaving is finished, the stitching and sewing garments are cut off again.

Cross stitch is a key technology and important link in the production of Chinese brocade brocade.

In the Ming Dynasty, Song Yingxing, in his writings, "Heaven workers open things, is a suit", made an overview of the flowers. "The craftsmen are the most clever and clever."

How does the painter first draw the flowers on the paper, and the knot is measured by the silk thread and the painting, and the score is calculated. Deserts Chang is above the flower house.

After wearing the heald belt, the size of the belt is raised, and after the shuttle is passed, it is actually shown.

At present, the method of cloud brocade is the same as records. Modern jacquard technology also originated here.

When Westerners marvel at the Chinese silk fabrics imported from the "Silk Road", Chinese brocade jacquard technology and textures and crafts are also introduced to Europe along this road.

Jacquard, a French loom maker, was inspired by the working principle of the jacquard machine in the cloud brocade, and invented the jacquard jacquard machine.

Gao Hanyu, a famous Chinese textile expert, commented that China's textile technology, especially Nanjing's Brocade stitching technology, is the source of the modern electronic computing binary system, which has great and far-reaching impact on the world's scientific and technological inventions.

In May this year, the "China Nanjing cloud brocade global high-level forum" was held at the United Nations Pavilion at Expo Park, Shanghai. The forum confirmed that the principle of the "binary system" of "Brocade binding" in Nanjing brocade technology is the originator of modern computers.

Nanjing Yun brocade has been inherited for more than 1500 years. Under the surface of Yun Xia, she has a broad and profound traditional technique, shining the glory of Chinese civilization and becoming a classic of Chinese traditional weaving skills.