The Formation Process Of Cheongsam
Republican China Cheongsam and Western costumes taste Consistent characteristics are not accidental. At that time, Shanghai, a metropolis with Chinese and Western cultures, was the most conditional birthplace. Now we may find it difficult to find the authentic evidence of the birth of the cheongsam in Shanghai, but we can still say that the Shanghai style robe is a typical example of the cheongsam in the Republic of China. If we are bold enough, we can further assume that the modern cheongsam or Yi Yi Qipao is the cheongsam of Shanghai style. Because in the minds of ordinary people, cheongsam's three words or images are the cheongsam of Shanghai in twentieth Century and 40s.
The cheongsam in 20s is still wide and straight; the cheongsam's hem is bigger than that of Qin's popular sleeves, and the whole robe is also "upside down".
But the shoulder, chest and even the waist are already fit.
trend
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Eileen Chang said: "the cheongsam of Chu Xing is cold and upright, and has a Puritan style.
"This is the first time," said the female writer who is good at observing and describing fashion. If it means 20s, it must be the impression of her childhood.
30s and 40s are the golden age of cheongsam and the most glorious period of modern Chinese women's clothing.
The cheongsam style is very long at this time, which is consistent with the fashionable dress of women in Europe at this time.
At this time, Qipao has completely jumped out of the banner of the banner of the female robe, and it is entirely a new style of "Chinese and Western combination".
First of all, there is a saying of "clique".
Local cheongsam is westernized, and Western-style handles are used outside the collar and sleeves, such as lotus leaf collar, western style lapel, Hollywood sleeve, etc.
Although the application of these reforms is not extensive, it indicates the freedom of thought at that time, and the original program of Qipao is no longer necessary.
The match between cheongsam and Western style coat is also a feature of the "clique", which makes the cheongsam enter the international clothing family and can combine with many modern clothes. In today's words, it has "internationalized and modernized".
In the late 30s, "improved cheongsam" appeared again.
The cheongsam's cutting structure and structure are more westernized, and the Qipao is more suitable for the use of chest and waist provinces, while shoulder joints and sleeves are also formed, so that shoulders and armpits are fitted together.
Someone also makes the softer shoulder pad "beauty shoulder".
This shows that women begin to abandon the old ideal shape angle characterized by shoulders.
These cuts and structural changes were completed in Shanghai.
Mr. Jin Taijun, the descendant of Shanghai Hongxiang company, firmly believes this.
Although he himself did not personally experience the whole process, but when he worked in Hongxiang in 40s, he could get much information from his teacher.
The cheongsam is mature and has been set up. The cheongsam will no longer jump out of the basic form determined by the cheongsam in 30s. It can only make some changes in its length, weight and decoration.
The cheongsam, which is loved by women all over the world, is typical of Cheongsam in 30s.
The cheongsam in 30s is modeled after the Shanghai style cheongsam.
At that time, Shanghai was the center of Asian fashion and the paradise of social celebrities.
The definition is broader and the basic form is more definite.
In the 30-40 years, the change of cheongsam was more manifested in the choice of fabric and decoration, as well as the change of length and slit.
Because skirt position is an important feature of women's clothing, cycloid is the most important style line.
In Europe, the 30s women's clothing has been very low, and the waist line is very high.
Long skirts are the characteristics of 30s, and are the marks that distinguish the ladies' garments in 20s.
Cheongsam in 30s is also very long.
In 1931 and 1932, due to the influence of 20s, the position of the hem was not high.
From 1932 to 1938, cheongsam has been very long.
Especially around 1934, cheongsam was almost popular in Shanghai.
This indicates that the popularity of Shanghai style cheongsam and international women's clothing is almost synchronous.
Any one-pieie dress with Chinese interest (or fabric or details or decoration) can be called cheongsam.
So we can have cheongsam with no collar, no collar or no slit.
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