Origin Of Cheongsam

　　 Manchu Origin of Cheongsam

Cheongsam was a women's fashion in the period of the Republic of China and evolved from the gown of Manchu women. Because Manchu is called "banners", it is called "cheongsam". In the Qing Dynasty, women's clothing was coexisted with Han and Manchu. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women wore gowns, while Han women still wore their skirts under their jackets. the Qing dynasty In the later period, Manchu imitated Han ethos, and even appeared the situation of "half flags changed to Han costume, and palace robes were cut into short clothes", and the ethos of Han nationality following Manchu costumes was also popular in some of the dignitaries at this time.

In 1920s, cheongsam, which was improved by western dress, became popular among women. The Chinese cheongsam, which was absorbed by Western Han costumes, was able to enter thousands of households through continuous improvement. There are many styles of cheongsam, such as Ruyi, pipa, slanting and double breasted, with high collar, low collar, no collar, long sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless sleeves, slit high slit, low slit, long cheongsam, short Qipao, Qipao, single cheongsam and so on. The improved cheongsam became almost the standard garment of Chinese women in 1930s.

Gowns that are popular in ethnic minority areas or nomads are generally relatively narrow. Fit In order to facilitate riding or other intense activities, this style of dress is more suitable for using the left and narrow sleeves. Historically, the Han people have adopted this narrow style of Robe style for many times. Zhao Wuling's Hu Fu riding is a typical example. Hu clothing in the Tang Dynasty was also popular for a while. Hu Fu in Tang Kaiyuan and Tianbao years and Hu Zhuang, Hu Qi and Hu Le were the same people. They could be regarded as a popular example of foreign culture in a large area. They belonged to the "imported products" of the streets in Changan. In the Liao, Jin, yuan and Qing Dynasties and other ethnic minority regimes, the robes that fit together once played the leading role of clothing, though they all experienced or showed the process or trend of becoming broad. In the Qing Dynasty, the robe was regarded as a typical dress because of its longest duration.

During the Shunzhi period (AD 1644), the Qing Dynasty entered Beijing, and then unified the whole country. With the initial stability of the regime, the introduction of shaving and easy clothing has led to a massive bloody killing. At this point, traditional Hanfu suits are almost completely prohibited. It is said that the Hanfu pattern under the 1000 year coat is only kept in the dress of Han women's home. Ceremonial occasions, men and women wear robes. There are many kinds of gowns, such as Korean robes, dragon robes, python robes and regular robes. {page_break}

From the word meaning, the cheongsam refers to the gown worn by the flag men (both men and women), but only the gowns worn by the eight banners are closely related to the cheongsam of the later generations. In the ban issued by Shunzhi and Jiaqing years, Manchu women banned the fashion of Han women's dress. In the late Qing Dynasty, Han women also followed the Manchu costume. The difference between the dress styles of Manchu Han women and their costumes is becoming smaller and smaller, thus becoming the prelude to the popularity of cheongsam.

In the late Qing Dynasty, the gowns worn by the flag girls were wide and wide, with straight lines and long ankles. "Yuanbao collar" is very popular. It covers the cheeks and touches the ears. The gowns are embroidered with colorful patterns, collar, sleeves and buttons. During the period of Xianfeng and Tongzhi, when the roll reached the peak stage, some even the whole clothes were all rolled up with lace, so that it was almost impossible to identify the original material. The decoration of the flag robe is very complicated. The Qing Dynasty is trying to save the peril. The Qing Dynasty's westernization school put forward the strategy of saving the nation by "learning from the middle school and using western learning for use", sending large numbers of overseas students to study abroad. Chinese students first appeared in western style students' clothes and caps, and the input of foreign clothes provided another reference frame for judging beauty, which directly affected the change of social dress concept. In the future, cheongsam evolved into a new style of Chinese and Western styles. The change of Western cheongsam is the beginning of this change.

　 Cheongsam during the Republic of China

In 1911, the storm of the revolution of 1911 broke down and overthrew the last feudal dynasty in Chinese history. It eliminated the political obstacles for the popularization of western style clothing in China. At the same time, it also threw aside the traditional harsh ethics and the concept of weathering, and lifted all sorts of shackles of strict hierarchy. The free transformation of clothing towards civilians and internationalization has come to an end, and the cheongsam has thus lifted the traditional heavy burden. The old flag robe was abandoned and the new cheongsam was started in the troubled times.

At this time, the fashion center has been moved from Su Yang to Shanghai. Shanghai is also a major town for women to seek liberation. Missionaries, businessmen and revolutionaries competed in the establishment of women's studies, and set off a wave of feminist movement. Seeking liberation society's atmosphere to wash away the conventions and customs of dress adornment, tending to be concise and tonal, striving for elegance, and paying attention to embody the natural beauty of women. Cheongsam originally appeared in the form of waistcoat, with the length of the vest and the back of the foot on the short coat. After changing the long waistcoat into a sleeved pattern, it becomes the rudiment of the new cheongsam. It is said that the most popular female student in Shanghai is the founder of cheongsam. At that time, female students, as the representatives of intellectual women, became the ideal image of the society. They were symbols of civilization and the forerunner of fashion, and even the fashionable personages of social celebrities were all dressed up as female students. {page_break}

30, 40s is the peak period of cheongsam, and the improved cheongsam appears to absorb western style cutting methods on the structure so that the robes are more suitable. Although the cheongsam is born out of the Qing banner gown, it is different from the old system, and has become a modern Chinese woman's standard dress with the characteristics of Chinese and Western dress.

Qipao cheongsam originated from the banners of the banners, and Beijing was the largest place where the banners lived. So until the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, cheongsam belonged to Beijing culture. The banners of the Qing Dynasty include men's robes and women's robes, but because Qipao are women's garments, they can also be said that Qipao is derived from the robe of a flag girl. At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, the robe of the flag girl, which was thin, tight, tight and slim, was enlarged and mattress at the end of Qing Dynasty. After the revolution of 1911, the banners overthrew their robes and wore gowns and trousers. Therefore, in twentieth Century, there were few cheongsam in the 10 years, and there was a slight recovery in 20s. Cheongsam has undergone qualitative changes after the change. The main place for this change is Shanghai.

In the late Qing Dynasty, there were three main differences between the robe of the flag girl and the cheongsam of the Republic of China.

1. the banners of the flag girls are wide and straight, and do not show their physique; in the Republic of China, the Qipao is open to the waist, showing their posture or female curves.

2. of the gowns of the flag girl wore trousers, embroidered trouser legs in the slit, underwear and stockings in the qiongpao, and exposed legs at the slit.

3. the dress of the flag girl is mostly heavy brocade or other jacquard fabrics, and the decoration is cumbersome. In the Republic of China, Qipao fabric is lighter, more printed fabrics and simpler decoration.

It is these three differences that make Qipao a qualitative change from traditional gowns to a new variety that can be compared with western dress. The gown is a coat. It is a kind of clothing that emphasizes function (cold, shelter, identity, etc.). Its aesthetic meaning is traditional implicative. Skirts, French robe or one-piece dress in English, although they also have the same historical and functional tradition as Chinese robes, show the female body curve is also one of its long tradition. Modern skirt has strengthened this characteristic, from implicit, idealized, partial performance to exposure, sexy and whole body performance. The performance of modern western skirt shows that the cheongsam of the Republic of China is incomparable. After the founding of new China, the number of women wearing cheongsam declined sharply. A famous person once said regrettably: "for a better woman, it is a great loss not to wear cheongsam!" {page_break}

In 1911, the storm of the revolution of 1911 broke out, overthrew the rulers of Manchu, destroyed the last feudal dynasty in Chinese history, cleared the political obstacles for the popularization of western style clothing in China, and threw aside the traditional harsh ethics and the concept of weathering, and lifted all sorts of shackles of strict hierarchy. The free transformation of clothing towards civilians and internationalization has come to an end, and the cheongsam has thus lifted the traditional heavy burden. Because of the demise of Manchu ruling regime, cheongsam wears very little at this time. Western style Chinese dress is bustling and mixed. The old flag robe was abandoned and the new cheongsam was started in the troubled times.

　 Cheongsam at the beginning of the Republic of China - Qipao that had slipped quietly.

At the beginning of twentieth Century, China's political situation was unsettled. The revolution of 1911 abolished the monarchy, founded the Republic of China, cut off braids, made it easy to serve colors, destroyed and destroyed, overthrew the feudal rulers of Manchu, and sent the crown and rank system belonging to the feudal dynasty into the Museum of history, all of which created conditions for the extension of the new cheongsam. After the revolution of 1911, the characteristic costumes of "Dala wing" and "flower pot bottom" disappeared overnight.

In 1924, the last emperor Pu Yi was excommunicated from the Forbidden City. Before and after 1920, the spring tide of the new culture movement awakened people's desire for beauty.

During this period, Shanghai became a new display platform for women to dress up. The pursuit of fashionable and fashionable clothes became the prevailing social fashion. Fashionable women had double sensitivity to politics and fashion.

Influenced by Japanese style clothing, "new clothes of civilization" became popular in the early 1910s and early 20s, and the black skirts of female students and female teachers became fashionable.

20s - big sleeves and new styles.

In the early 1910s and early 20s, there was a fashionable new dress in urban women.

30s -- Golden Age

From 1920s to 40s, it was the most brilliant period of modern Chinese women's dress, and 30s was the peak of this period. At that time, Qipao laid an irreplaceable position on the stage of women's wear and became a typical representative of Chinese women's wear.

40s -- Golden Age

The process of cheongsam to the classics can be basically completed in 30s, and 40s is the continuation of its golden age in time. {page_break}

From 20s to 40s, it was the most brilliant period of modern Chinese women's dress, and 30s was the peak of this period. At that time, Qipao laid an irreplaceable position on the stage of women's wear and became a typical representative of Chinese women's wear.

After entering 30s, the cheongsam style is perfect and mature. It can be called classic. It makes it difficult for the cheongsam to jump out of the shape of the cheongsam.

The cheongsam, known as the Chinese dress cheongsam (Hai Pai cheongsam), is known as the cheongsam in 30s. Cheongsam culture was completed in 30s, and 30s is the golden age of cheongsam.

It can be said that at that time China had real fashion, fashion in the modern sense. The importation and importation of foreign materials, the clothing columns that have been opened by newspapers and magazines, and the beautiful calendar of fashionable calendar beauties, all undoubtedly promote the emergence and popularity of fashion. As the cheongsam's slender fitness just caters to the thin and exquisite figure of Southern women, it is very popular in Shanghai.

The Shanghai style cheongsam with the characteristics of western style clothing soon became popular in Shanghai from all over the country. In this way, as the important representative of Shanghai style culture, the cheongsam of Shanghai style became the mainstream of Cheongsam in 30s. The cheongsam in 30s, also known as the cheongsam of Shanghai style, is the mainstream of cheongsam.

In the late 30s, the improved cheongsam also absorbed western style cutting methods on the structure, which made the robes fit more appropriately. Although the cheongsam is born out of the Qing banner gown, it is quite different from the old system, and becomes the standard clothing of modern Chinese women with the characteristics of Chinese and Western dress.

At the beginning of the founding of the people's Republic, people's pursuit of dress beauty has completely transformed into a craze for revolutionary work. The leisurely and comfortable lady's image represented by cheongsam has lost its living space in this atmosphere.

　　 The development of modern cheongsam

In the early twentieth Century, the short sleeves with wide trumpet sleeves, the sleeves of the front and rear sides and the sleeves without sleeves were prevalent. Since then, cheongsam has made some changes in the side, sleeve, collar, collar and so on, adding decoration and complicated changes. But it still keeps the traditional broad cut style of cheongsam vest, and the traditional way of straight-line cutting can not reveal the feminine figure. {page_break}

In the late 20s and 30s, cheongsam changed repeatedly in terms of length, width, slit, height of sleeves, sleeves, and collar. In 1929, influenced by short skirts in Europe and America, the cheongsam of the medium length began to shorten, the hem fell to the knees, and the cuffs became shorter and smaller. Later, there were school uniform cheongsam, the lower part was reduced to 1 inches above the knee, and the sleeves were westernized. The change was criticized. After 1931, Qipao began to grow longer and its hem was sagging. In the middle of 30s, it developed to the extreme. The bottom of the robe covered the feet, which was called "sweeping the cheongsam". The sleeves of the cheongsam, which could have covered the wrist, were shortened to the elbow. After that, the sleeves become shorter and shorter, and they shrink to two inches below the shoulders. After 1936, they are almost sleeveless.

After the cheongsam appeared in the Qing Dynasty, the cheongsam quietly lowered the sleeves on the left side. Later, the gap increased and the knees increased to the thigh. Because of objection, the paw was once below the knee. However, when the pressure of public opinion decreased, the tunic quickly increased, and the cheongsam was popular after 1933.

The traditional cheongsam is a straight line, plus a high stiff collar. In the early 30s, the waist of the robe began to contract for a long time. After 1934, the curve of the female figure was finally revealed. The tall and ears collar gradually became shorter, and later some became the no collar cheongsam.

At the beginning of the founding of the people's Republic, people's pursuit of dress beauty has completely transformed into a craze for revolutionary work. The leisurely and comfortable lady's image represented by cheongsam has lost its living space in this atmosphere.

50s - there was also a brilliant moment.

In the age of people being masters of the country, if the clothing is also popular, the dominant trend has shifted to the civilian population.

Cheongsam to 1956, it was said that when a leader of the former Soviet Union visited China, he suggested that Chinese clothing should reflect the new look of socialism, so the government called on everyone to wear flowers.

The cheongsam appeared healthier and more natural than before. Not evil, not beautiful, not delicate, not sick, accord with the "beautiful and generous" standard at that time, and more practical......

60, 70s - 20 years of neglect

From 1966 to 1976, the "Cultural Revolution" was a havoc of traditional culture and a disaster of cheongsam.

80, 90s - brilliant again

Throughout 80s, it was predicted that cheongsam would be popular. Especially in 80 and 90s, the ideal image of women has changed. The tall, slender, narrow shoulders and narrow buttocks are what people yearn for.

Cheongsam, which best reflects this perfect figure, has room for survival and development. It is said that the cheongsam that was very popular will return to people again. But surprisingly, cheongsam is not popular anymore, but only a few people are wearing it.

Qipao's age of prosperity has gone far away, and it has been neglected for 30 years. It seems to be a bit behind the land after its opening up in 80s.

However, in 80 and 90s, there was a "uniform cheongsam" with professional symbolism. In order to promote and promote sales, ladies of ceremonial dress, hostesses, waitresses and hotel waitresses wear cheongsam.

This cheongsam is stereotyped. It uses many kinds of synthetic fiber silk fabrics, with bright colors, high slit and rough workmanship. This really damages the beautiful image of Cheongsam in people's mind. People dare not wear cheongsam in order to distinguish their identity.

Since 1990s, the ideal image of women has changed. Tall, slender, flat shoulders and narrow buttocks are what people yearn for. Cheongsam, the representative of Chinese fashion, the most capable of setting the figure and temperament of Chinese women, has attracted people's attention again. Many foreign designers, inspired by cheongsam, have launched the cheongsam with international flavor and even the combination of Chinese cheongsam and European evening dress.