Perception Of Chinese Clothing Culture -- Clothing In Ming And Qing Dynasties
The clothing of the two generation of upper and lower classes has obvious grades.
The official suit of the upper class is the symbol of power, and has always been paid attention to by the ruling class.
Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, dragon robes and yellow have been used exclusively by the royal family.
Since the southern and Northern Dynasties, purple has been expensive.
The Ming Dynasty
Because of the emperor's surname Zhu, the color of Zhu was positive, and because the "Analects of Confucius" had "purple purple", purple was abolished from the official uniform.
The most distinctive feature is the expression of "grade".
The complement is a piece of silk fabric about 40~50 centimeters square, with different patterns on the embroidery and stitching to the official uniform.
The children of the civil servants use the birds, and the military officers use the animals to divide them into nine equal parts.
In general, the round collar gowns are divided by the length of their clothes and the size of their sleeves.
The official costume of Ming Dynasty was slightly different from that of song and Yuan Dynasties.
Emperor
Wear black gauze and fold up the hat and wings.
The officials dressed in the ceiling and painted the gauze, and often wore the gauze cap.
The official wife and mother who are sealed up also have red big sleeved dress and various kinds of summer drapes.
In addition, high heels have been used in the upper women with high and high bottom and high bottom.
The clothing or long, short, or shirt or skirt of ordinary people in the Ming Dynasty basically inherited the old tradition and was very rich in variety.
In terms of clothing color, the common wives and daughters can only be dressed in purple, green, peach and other colors, so as not to mix up with the official uniform, and the working people only use brown.
The hat of ordinary people, except for the old samples since the Tang and Song Dynasties, was made by Zhu Yuanzhang in two ways.
One is the square barrel black paint gauze cap, which is called the square square flat napkin. One is made of six synthetic hemispherical small caps, called Liuhe unified cap.
The latter is handed down, commonly known as the leather cap, which is made of black velvet, satin and so on.
In the Qing Dynasty, the shaving and easy clothes were carried out by violence, and men's clothing was unified according to Manchu custom.
In the nine year (1652) of Shunzhi, the clothing and color regulations were promulgated, and the crown clothes of strong Han nationality were abolished.
In the Ming Dynasty, men used to wear their bun, wear baggy clothes, wear stockings and shallow shoes. When they were in the morning, they had shaved hair and braid, and wore thin horseshoe cuff shirts, stockings and deep boots.
But officials and people dress in accordance with the law.
The main gowns of Qing Dynasty were long gowns and Liriodendron.
The official hat is quite different from that of the former dynasty. The officers and men above the military officers and the officers and men above the army wore similar weft caps, which resembles those with small caps. According to the warm hat and hat in winter and summer, they also look at the top and the top with different colors and materials, and drag a bunch of peacock feathers behind the hat.
The plumes are called flowers, and the high Ling has "eyes" (the round spots on the feathers), and has a single eye, a pair of eyes, and three eyes.
Emperors sometimes wear yellow gown to show their special favour.
Influenced by other colors, the mandarin jacket became popular among officials and gentry, becoming a formal dress.
Four, officials of the above five items are also hung with Chao Zhu, made of various precious jewels and fragrant wood, forming another characteristic of Qing Dynasty official uniform.
The progress of silk spinning and dyeing and all kinds of handicrafts has created conditions for the rich variety of clothing in Qing Dynasty.
The development of women's clothing in Qing Dynasty was different from Han and Manchu.
During the period of Kangxi and Yong Zheng, Han women retained the Ming style, fashionable sleeves and long skirts. After the Qianlong period, the clothes became more and more short, the cuffs were wider, and the clouds were added to the shoulders.
Manchu women wear "flag", comb the flag bun (commonly known as two heads), wear "flower pot bottom" flag shoes.
For the later generations, the so-called Qipao was mainly used in court and royal family for a long time.
In the late Qing Dynasty, Qipao was also copied by the ladies in the Han nationality.
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