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    Two Of Buyer Rule: Fashion Hand

    2010/10/22 9:53:00 89

    Buyer Rule

    Buyers, the manipulators behind fashion


    Obviously,

    Brand buyer

    It should be responsible for the whole process of product design, development and production.


    Some experts believe that the first problem is that buyers should follow the trend and predict the next half year in advance.

    Popular products

    And share information and forecast results with designers to help designers design products that meet the needs of next season's market.


    Participating in design and grasping popularity is an important part of buyers.


    For example, ZARA, hundreds of buyers go to fashion shows or shopping malls, collect new popular elements carefully, then discuss and share with the design department. After the new design is carried out by the design department, the purchase and production are arranged.


    Here, the buyer should take the main information supply of product development, and also independently develop the product style.

    Designers should design and modify the information provided by buyers to carry out product development.


    In fact, many brands such as ONLY, JACK&JONES and ECCO do not have their own special designers. They have buyers in different areas. These fashionable buyers have replaced designers in a certain extent.


    Even Armani also allows developers to get close to the market and develop at the center of market demand.

    And the main function of brand design has become to dress up only for fashion show and provide customization for high-end customers.


    As a Brand Company famous for its design, Armani has almost subversive significance.

    It no longer allows designers to design products one by one, but to meet the needs of more and more consumers.


    "Seven wolves have set up a buyer for two years.

    For the personalized designer brand, the buyer's function will weaken relatively; for the garment brand that does not emphasize the design sense, the buyer is more important.

    Zhou Shaoxiong, chairman of the seven wolves, said.


    In 2004, Taiping bird tried to introduce some "fashion buyers" instead of "designers". "Now many designers have begun to pform to buyers."


    "With the company's only number of designers, the design is limited and the update speed is not fast enough."

    Ashton, manager of Jiangsu development department, said Xiong Wenbin.


    As a result, Ashton began to try out the "buyer mode" in clothing design, not only to cultivate a group of fashionable buyers, but also to sign contracts with a large number of fashionable buyers outside the company.


    However, in order to avoid intellectual property problems, the "creativity" and "change the teacher" brought back by buyers should be changed.


    In fact, there are two kinds of brand buyer team models: buyer team lead + design supplement, such as ZARA; designer dominant + buyer team supplement, mainly reflected in some designer Brand Company.


    Many Chinese companies do not want to recognize the "buyer team lead + design supplement" mode to highlight the original design concept in the minds of consumers.


    In fact, many Chinese companies adopt the mode of "buyer team lead + design supplement". After buying the sample, the buyer sends it to the designer, and the designer changes accordingly according to the buyer's specific requirements.


    Of course, buyers in the market buying activities, can also look for the style of the order or bulk purchase, and then directly sent to the enterprise terminal store for sale.


    It can be seen that the main task of the buyer is to buy new samples and participate in the specific development so that the designer can display the product according to his intention.

    At the same time, it can also directly produce orders for some popular styles.


    But in the view of Shi Jie, "to pick up the processing plant, it is procurement, not buyers."

    Shi Jie said that he was only responsible for the products that were consistent with the shop style, and that he was responsible for purchasing talents who he understood.


    He believes that the Chinese clothing must enter into a virtuous circle and a highly division of labor, so the buyer system must be introduced.


    Because a buyer chooses a designer product to show that the buyer understands the designer's style, which will encourage the designer to insist on his style.

    If there are difficulties in selling certain products, buyers will also communicate with designers, which is also a great boost to designers.


    In this way, the stronger the designer's style, the greater the impact on consumers, the more complementary the designer and the buyer.


    On CHIC2010, the personal high-end series launched by Jack Shi to the buyer has attracted many overseas buyers' interest and placed orders on the spot.


    "Overseas buyers are only interested in products with outstanding style and distinctive characteristics," said Shijie, who wants to gradually differentiate the style of buyers, forming an independent high-end brand.


    This is the contest between design and market, and the integration of design and market.


    "Overseas personal conference, designers exaggerated, which represents the designer's artistic level.

    And to enter the market, these clothes need to be modified.

    Some experts say.


    And "domestic designers are often talking about armchair, and the clothes designed can really go into the market."

    Designer Chen Wen said so.


    "Importing buyers will force these designers to understand the market. If the product is useless, the company will eliminate you."

    Wang Xiangsheng said.


    "Designers may be lazy and casual. In order to design an excellent design without using expensive materials and technology, buyers need to be more logical and more likely to control designers in spirit."

    James Clark, a buyer professor at the London Fashion Institute, said buyers and designers work together to determine the trend of a particular season.


    It is based on the belief that "clothing is a commodity should follow the business rules". Yao Xiaoyun resigned from the design director sixth years after graduating from university and embarked on the road to study in Britain. He not only learned systematically about clothing business, but also took the course of clothing buyer.


    After graduation, she entered Kookai London head office and became a knitting product line buyer.


    From design director to a buyer, this is a new start.


    As a designer, the buyer's tutorials naturally give her a new perspective, and fashion is her natural advantage.


    As the buyer of I.T group's independent brand Fcuk, 5cm and Double name, Teresa, at least every week, should turn all the shops of the company to browse the fashionable places in Shanghai, and pay attention to collecting local media information.


    Wu Chen, manager of retail and product department at Chole, said, "every time I shop, I will unconsciously observe the shop windows, see the latest products of other brands and the people's dress in the streets."


    In fact, Wu Chen was very sensitive to fashion since she was young. She was the first batch of readers after "ELLE" entered China. "Not only do I see fashion magazines, but sometimes advertisements in magazines also give me inspiration."


    Carme, a senior fashion buyer of Hongkong's West Wu department store, usually goes online and reads magazines to collect data. Magazines pay attention to Elle, the US and French versions of Vogue and Bazaar.


    Obviously, professional buyers must be keen on fashion and have a keen insight into fashion trends.


    In Wu Chen's view, the buyer not only plays the role of intermediary, but she hopes to bring new things to customers every time. Maybe customers will not accept it at first sight, but they will gradually like it.


    "Buyers not only cater to consumers, but also guide them to accept the latest trend in the world," she said.


    However, in Teresa's view, the buyer is just adding fuel to the flames of fashion.


    "In the end, the real control of the market is the customer."

    Teresa said.

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