On The Nationalization Style Design Of Silk Garments

Traditional culture is the soil that every nation depends on. Only by designing the local culture can we create brilliant works. After a long period of blind pursuit of Western costumes, Chinese clothing industry began to reflect on and deeply study the reasons for the popularity of clothing and its success or failure. More and more people of insight understand that it is difficult to achieve all-round spancendence by pure imitation, so there are many nationalization discussions. However, there are many problems in the actual design. It is mainly manifested in the rigid, conservative and lack of innovation of national costumes. The work has not integrated the spirit of the times. Nationalization In the design, there is no embodiment of the elegant, natural, casual and implicit essence of Chinese clothing. Nationalized rhetoric has become empty talk.

The first reason is that there is a lack of awareness in the design. Two, there is a lack of clear understanding of the direction and method of the nationalization of clothing. The narrow concept of design has seriously hindered the further development of nationalized clothing design. In view of these problems, this paper attempts to make some comprehensive analysis on the three aspects of design nature, design method and design angle.

1. Design nature: description or guidance?

Generally speaking, the nature of design can be divided into two categories: descriptive design and guiding design. The question of description is "what is national costume?" And "why is it like this?" The guiding design is concerned with "what should the national costume design be?" The former lies in "knowing", which is how people feel and understand national costumes. The latter is more important than "action" and is the role and change of people in clothing. Nowadays, most of the nationalized clothing designs belong to the description type.

It must be pointed out that the guiding design can not be guided by the description type. If we want the theory to have a real guiding significance, we must describe, inspect and evaluate the national costume, and see if it is ideal in terms of culture, society, economy and function. Conversely, the descriptive design cannot be divorced from the guiding theory. Because if we do not allow a creative design concept to be put into practice and create a new national style, all descriptions and judgments are mere formality and no vitality. It can be said that the guiding design theory is the process of evaluation and revision of "back to practice". In this way, the two complement each other perfectly.

Nowadays, most of the design of national silk clothing stays at the level of description, without penetrating into its own unique design concept, and the works designed are mediocre. It is inseparable from the combination of "Chinese elements" to deliberately Express China's imprint. For example, the style is nothing more than a pair of buttons, big buttons, buttons and standing collar. When it comes to patterns, the traditional flower plates, flower clusters and applique are invariably fetched, and the color can never jump out of the traditional five colors, which can not keep up with the popular steps. The euphemistic, refreshing and elegant style of the whole show is pretentious.
Of course, there are also designers who insist on their understanding of traditional culture and emphasize their own ideas in design. In the fashion week of Shanghai in 2003, designer Tan Yuyan's work runs through her elegant and elegant design style, and does not deliberately stack up Chinese elements. The overall design is simple and generous with modern sense. Tan Yuyan was influenced by Chinese landscape painting. He was mean by white, black and beige in order to better express his passion for the quiet, indifferent and happy thoughts of Buddhism and Taoism. On the whole, modern clothing is a strong Chinese style. This unconventional design method, while describing the fascinating national style, highlights the characteristics of the brand and achieves success.

In short, it is very important to clarify and distinguish the concept of description and guidance design in the nature of design, which helps to fully understand and excavate the potential space and direction of the design concept of national silk garments. If we look at the source and design of the designer, we will find another important concept that is equally important.

2, design perspective: professional sources of information or non professional sources?

Another important concept is the difference in design angle, that is, professional sources and non professional sources. This is the vocabularies borrowed from human studies by Amos&nbspRapoport, the environmental and cultural scholar, and then gradually became popular in the field of design theory. Professional sources refer to information materials provided by professional trained observers or researchers, and non professional sources refer directly to non professional subjects who are observed by information.

Through some examples, we can better understand this concept. For example, Paris senior. Women's wear The designer's new fashion show, the popular forecast of professional fashion magazine experts, the new information provided by the fashion color association, and the suggestions from purchasing staff are all professional sources. Through questionnaires, interviews, oral records, etc., it directly records consumers' views and understanding of costumes, and does not join the subjective evaluation of observers. The information obtained is non professional sources.

As for the design of national silk garments, the professional source of information enables designers to accurately grasp the latest design concepts and trends, so that the design has a sense of fashion and keeps up with the international trend; the non professional sources of information enable designers to understand the needs and aesthetic orientation of the masses and make the design more rational and market-oriented. It can be seen that the two sources of information are equally important and cannot be neglected.

However, the real problem is that most of the information sources are designed by professional sources. Designers usually show their admiration for big designer and superstition for authoritative forecasting organizations, but the needs of consumers and redesign of clothing are often ignored by designers. The difference between professional sources and non professional sources reflects a traditional contradiction in design theory, that is, the contradiction between the ideal of the designer and the needs of the users. The failure of design in some aspects is due to this contradiction. Some designers have advanced design ideas. They can guide the values of public life through design, but they can not be accepted by the public. On the other hand, designers may despise the public's taste and refuse to communicate. Especially in the design of national silk garments, most designers seldom consider the preferences and needs of consumers, and feedback on clothes. They become completely self entertainment games.

However, this phenomenon has also attracted the attention of some designers. They have begun to focus on the aesthetic orientation of consumers and the style of street wear. Just like the spontaneous fashion of Mix&Match years ago (the mixture of different prices and styles of clothes), the style of dress has become a strong demand, which makes designers master themselves and make popular adjustments to their designs. Chanel no longer equals only with the image of "Lady", adding a sports style single product collocation. In the 2004 autumn and Winter Conference, Italy designer Issaac&nbspMizrahi mixed the one hundred yuan Target vest with eighty thousand of the needs of the special order of beads. Today, Chinese designers, seeing that they lack communication with the front-line market, have made many meaningful direct research with customers, and no longer blindly follow authoritative forecasting experts and designers. Design based on non professional sources is often easier to succeed than the market. Hangzhou's brand "ah Gu" starts with the design of a distinctive national costume. Its clothes are brightly colored and bold in style, mostly from ethnic costumes. In the early stage of operation, the unique design did make the company successful, but the subsequent operation found that sales volume was difficult to go further. The reason is that its design is also a "play art". It only emphasizes its own design concept, but ignores the customer's receptivity. In 2005, "ah Gu Mu" made adjustments to focus on the needs and feedback of customers, and the adjustment of design angle made the sales performance get instant results.

Expansion of professional sources to non professional sources trend In terms of concept, it embodies the shift from clothing centered to human centered, and in design reflects the spanition to consumption consciousness. While absorbing the latest trend factors and accepting the latest design concepts, designers should also do a good job in investigating potential customers to make their designs more rational.

After the design angle is determined, choosing the appropriate design method is also an important aspect affecting the quality of the finished product of nationalized silk garments.

3, design method: general design method or design principle method?

3.1 general design method

In 1960s, the general design method, which was formed by Japanese scholars, aims to explore the essence of design and study the law of human thinking in the design process, so as to provide an applicable theoretical basis for program design. It proposes a design definition as a repeated mapping from the entity function space S to the attribute space T (Figure 2). That is to say, human beings have the ability to recognize the functions and attributes of natural beings. But human thinking does not stay in existence. Through the deduction and operation of the abstract concepts such as attributes and concepts, new entities (new attributes and new functions) are created. The design of national costume can be regarded as the entity of the existing national costume. This entity contains many factors, including styles, colors, fabrics, crafts and patterns. According to certain mapping axioms (costume design is mainly the requirements of the times and the design concept of the designers themselves), the factors are mapped to the new entities one by one, and the new factors generated by the new entities in turn affect other factors in the entity. Such repeated mapping forms a new entity, that is, the new national costume.

For example, for example, we need to design more sexy. Avant-garde style Cheongsam. If the design is first designed, the waist line is raised, the collar becomes soft, and the skirt of the mini skirt is made, the purpose of this design is to make the cheongsam dignified and relaxed. After deciding this, we must consider the choice of new fabrics. For the new style, the traditional broken flower brocade is too elegant. After thinking, choose the sparkling silk without pattern, then consider using the bold scarlet and style and fabric matching. In order to make the design not monotonous, the Chinese traditional embroidery is simple and representative.

So analogous, after a design factor is determined, we consider whether other factors match it.

It can be found that the general design method is linear, and the design thinking process it proposes is: asking questions, developing functions, putting forward schemes, evaluating, asking questions, and selecting good decisions.

The general design method widely exists in the design of national silk garments. It is suitable for designing clothing elements one by one according to a certain inspiration.

3.2 design principle

The method of design principles was developed by American scholars. It was originally used in the field of engineering design, and was later used for many fields, such as visual design, costume design and so on.

The past design is based on experience or trial and error, and lacks scientific principles and methods to guide the development of design. Therefore, the design cycle is long and the efficiency is low, so it can not meet the requirements of the innovative design of complex products. Therefore, the purpose of the research is to discover and summarize the evaluation criteria of the design quality, find out the good design mechanism and design guidelines, and put forward the scientific method of design synthesis. The design definition model is: the design principle considers that design is the process of "requirement" to "product", and the design is defined as the mapping from function space FR to design parameter space DP.

The design produces a large number of plans to make the best design for rapid decision making. Two principles of evaluation are put forward in the design philosophy. The principle of Independence: keeping the independence of the necessary functions -- the feasibility criterion of the scheme; the information principle: minimizing the design information -- the optimization criterion of the scheme.

For example, the design of a new season of national style clothing, the various design of functional factors (such as customer segmentation, price tolerance, the most popular style, popular color, traditional aesthetic orientation, etc.) and its corresponding design parameters corresponding to the list, see Figure 5. In the list, two principles must be followed to ensure the efficiency and feasibility of the design. Then the design process and evaluation decision are carried out, and finally the plan is determined.

The design process model is: Problem design The process of creation, analysis, evaluation, and decision making.

It can be seen that the design principle is based on the target market, customers and popularity, and the essence is to design according to requirements. Design thinking is facet. It represents the screening of a large number of design elements, making the design more comprehensive, rapid and accurate. When designing the national silk garments, we can grasp the market more accurately by using the design principle.

The two design methods can be used alternately. For example, the elements of design should be listed and screened first, then the general design method is used to analyze and assess the links among elements. This will make the design of national silk garments more rational, rich and flexible.

4, conclusion

Natural Oriental style clothing is attracting worldwide attention and favor. In carrying out nationalized design, designers should make an in-depth discussion on the nature of design, the source and method of information. The nature determines the style of design, and the source of information is related to Design The fashion and marketability of the finished products are related to the efficiency and accuracy of the design process. The three closely linked together, in order to traditional culture, the spirit of the times, fashion trends and art ideas and other aspects of systematic engineering style, in the design and innovative thinking continue to benefit, constantly emerging new styles.