Changes In Fashion And Fashion In The Eyes Of Designers In The Past 60 Years

60 years of clothing in the eyes of designers

Moderator: on the occasion of the 60 years since the founding of the people's Republic of China, the host has launched a large-scale thematic and imprint of 60 years of life. Over the past 60 years, our lives have undergone tremendous changes. Especially in the fashion industry, we have invited several experts to chat with us about fashion today.

Su Baoyan, vice president of the China Fashion Designers Association, is the famous designer Guo Pei, the designer of white collar brand Fu Kui.

Moderator: do not know how the three teachers look at the changes in clothing brands, if in a word, these 60 years of relatively large changes in the number of signs, you from a point of view, is the color, style, fabric, please teacher Sue first.

Su Baoyan, vice president of China Fashion Designers Association

Su Baoyan: the three elements of clothing: color,

In the past 60 years, there has been a very big change from the original to the present.

Guo Pei: I think these 60 years should be said that people only know how to dress and dress. The concept of the most except one garment has been developed into real fashion.

Moderator: two words, one is clothing, one is fashion, completely different.

Fu Kui: I think it may be the emancipation of mind. In 60 and 70s, people do not know what fashion is and how to dress. Since the reform and opening up policy, we have basically been in line with the international market for 30 years. In the big environment, we are also very fashionable.

Moderator: indeed, from today's dress teacher can see the changes in the fashion industry.

The two teachers evaluated the dress of today's teacher.

Famous designer Guo Pei

Guo Pei: this tie.

It can be seen from the tie that it was unthinkable that men wore such diamond neckties.

It's unthinkable that men can wear such a beautiful tie.

Host: this should be followed.

Get along.

Su Baoyan: personalized.

Moderator: pay teacher to evaluate himself?

White collar brand designer Fu Kui

Fu Kui: as a designer, I am not particularly exaggerated, I am relatively introverted, although restrained, but also have their own style, this Shi Hua Luo drill has been the prevailing wind direction, so I added decoration on it.

Moderator: Shi Hua Luo people feel that the brand of women's agency, men should also be common.

Mr. Su has been in the office for 22 years. You must have a say very much. How did you feel about this industry before you got there?

Designers recall the fashion that they grow up together with

Su Baoyan: just beginning with the development of garment industry to fashion industry, Guo Pei has just said that it is a very big change.

At that time, because I was in charge of international exchanges in this field, I came into contact with many international fashion terms, and we can not turn them into development. We haven't developed to this stage.

At that time, the processing industry was just rising, or in the process of Readymade Garments.

There was a lot of reverie at that time and fashion. We could see some fragments from abroad, but it was very far away from us. Now we pay Kui also said that we are basically in line with international standards.

Host: we have seen from some image data that the green uniforms worn by the older generation, or the blue ones, are the same for both young people and old people. From seeing a movie and a red skirt on the street, I think there is some color jump and change in clothing.

Guo Pei: I studied this profession for 82 years. Reform and opening up for 30 years. We fashion for 28 years. From beginning to end, I experienced the changes in clothing at that time. I learned fashion design. At that time, neighbors could not understand that clothes needed to be designed, so you could learn tailoring.

I can't explain. At that time, I couldn't have the tailor.

It's very clear.

Up to now, not only fashion, high fashion, advanced clothing differences, all ordinary people can understand.

Moderator: including three teachers have a special sense of accomplishment, just entered the industry, the industry is sluggish, not optimistic, but after decades of development, the change is huge, and a few should have a sense of accomplishment, because you dress up the lives of each of us.

Guo Pei: at that time, I thought my parents were dressed.

Gray is very few, that is, the army green, there is a white cloth shirt, we used to wear red when we were young.

I remember pink when I was little, and my grandmother wouldn't allow me to wear it.

In my small impression, kindergarten, not to wear yellow and pink, can only wear big red, that is very bourgeois thinking.

When I was in primary school, I was always criticized, always letting my mother manage this daughter, too beautiful.

Su Baoyan: color is pink and color becomes bourgeois ideology. In the late 70s and early 80s, bell bottoms were the names of bad youth.

Guo Pei: I wear jeans. I have this knot in my memory. My dad said that you don't want to wear such thin trousers. I don't wear it now. My father is a member of the police department. He doesn't allow him to wear thin trousers.

Host: is there anyone who cares about you when you are a teacher?

Fu Kui: I was greatly influenced by my mother. Many things were done by myself, including the clothes we made when we were young. It was also worn in the early 80s.

Not entirely blue green, but also in other colors, beige and black.

Host: you have been deeply influenced by your mother in this industry.

Fu Kui: it should be, very small, like sewing machines on foot.

Development from brand to advanced customization

Moderator: you feel that the change is too great now, you are now a white collar brand, unlike previous clothing design, that concept is larger, now is more detailed?

Fu Kui: white collar brand is a big brand. We still have three second line brands below.

The gold collar is custom made, which is what Mr. Su said.

Su Baoyan: we did not know how to plate in French, but we could only plate it into high fashion. It was no difference from tailoring. A dress, the French said at least 80 thousand francs, more than 150 thousand yuan.

Expensive words even hundreds of thousands of yuan, 1 million yuan.

To say that custom will not turn over or turn over at that time, we will call it "

。

Guo Pei: This is definitely not our tailor, and I don't know how to position it.

Haute Couture appeared in China for 10 years, and I was gradually accepted that it was only 5 or 6 years to identify with high fashion.

I have been a designer for more than 20 years. I have been recognized as a fashion designer and accepted the clothes made by Guo Pei, which can be called advanced customization. It is also 5 or 6 years.

Su Baoyan: from the return of high fashion to the concept of advanced customization, Guo Pei also played a big role in this area.

Moderator: Mr. Guo, let me talk about it.

Guo Pei: I went through it very early, when I was in school.

It is not the same as the design. It is not clear. After graduation, I am a designer, and I gradually make customized designer from a brand designer. I feel that the clothes I made are not the general tailors, but I can not tell them that this is called haute couture.

Host: Chinese people do not accept it.

Guo Pei: the company had 14 years ago. When the company opened, I made a dress. Many people asked me why making a dress is more expensive than buying it.

Moderator: the usual idea, I can not buy very expensive, to find a person to cut, should be the cost price should be cheaper.

Guo Pei: in fact, it is completely different. This is the difference between tailoring and advanced customization.

Miss Su has been exposed to some cultures of French and French fashion. At that time, she felt that the differences between words, which we think are essential differences, are unclear.

Host: when did they come up with advanced customization?

Su Baoyan: the formation of the concept of real advanced customization is when they were in the three empires of France.

Host: they are ahead of us.

Guo Pei: not now. Now, including the high fashion I made, including the French, they are amazed. No matter from the craft, the tailoring, and the materials used, we can get the requirements of high fashion in all aspects.

They have been here for hundreds of years.

Su Baoyan: our first ten years were basically the formation of the processing industry. When it comes to the fashion industry, it was the beginning of the concept in the early 90s.

At that time, what was called brand was just started with trademark, and a name began to be called brand.

Really understanding the concept of brand is still in the middle of 90s.

Host: what did you encounter in the process of making brand?

Fu Kui: white collar was founded in 90s, up to now 15 years.

Compere: at that time, we had a lot of autonomy.

。

Fu Kui: there were many brands at that time, but there was not much left to shuffle slowly.

White-collar workers have been very fortunate to this day.

We have done something to raise the concept of Chinese clothing from a cheaper garment in the ordinary sense, and now it should be called advanced garments.

Moderator: we have another new word: Advanced garments, advanced garments and advanced customization are not a concept.

Guo Pei: there are essential differences.

Su Baoyan: advanced customization is aimed at one.

Tailored.

There are still many varieties of advanced garments.

Professional analysis of designers' retro trend

Moderator: really is developing very fast, we really dare not look back, the past bat, and bell bottoms.

I know that now there is retro.

Get it now.

Guo Pei: style retro, not that time clothes can be brought to wear, no matter when the clothes brought in, the tailoring is different in all aspects.

Su Baoyan: especially the material has changed a lot.

Host: we have injected different elements in the new era.

Guo Pei: it's popular.

Although it has returned to this point, it is highly different.

So its popularity can never overlap there.

Moderator: I know, it is spiral up.

How often does it spiral?

Su Baoyan: This is not a rule. It is influenced by social economy, culture, art and sometimes influential movies.

In this era, we say retro is not a retro of a single age, but in 50s and 60s, it was all crossed.

The spiral circles are not regular, but they can be large or small.

Guo Pei: in the past, our popularity was slower. Now the speed is faster and faster. It may be a season to turn around quickly. The so-called one season is half a year, and it will turn back to another one at once.

No law is most important for oneself.

Moderator: the next question, on behalf of my friends, I would like to ask a few teachers. Clothing is definitely the main criterion to judge whether a person is fashionable or not. How can we make ourselves fashionable through dressing up ourselves?

Su Baoyan: everyone has different definitions of their own styles. Some people want to make classical ones. Some people are willing to become fashion pioneers. Everyone according to their own characteristics and attitudes.

Host: as soon as I see, I am not a fashion person.

This question is too big.

Guo Pei: This is not a big problem. We explained in 90s that the explanation in 80s is different. It may be explained in 90s that it is packaging, that you are dressed up as Cheng Shunv, or that the fashionable women are the external packaging. Now, to explain this word, it should be said to be a real integration. When we talked about individuality, we talked about internal and external things. It seems that they are not exactly the same. Now, fashion is an attitude. If you judge a girl, or a woman from the outside, is it?

Her attitude and the choice of dressing is her own attitude. She has different attitudes and positioning towards herself.

To put it this way, the space is bigger and everyone thinks differently.

My style of dressing is not an attitude. Maybe the requirement for my life and work is that my external things can be expressed.

Now is not the so-called packaging in 90s. Packaging slowly wants to influence the interior from outside, and also wants to adjust the internal, temperament, personality, from internal to external.

This is not the word now.

Moderator: people wear clothes and people wear clothes.

Guo Pei: this relationship still exists in 90s. Now the relationship is completely integrated, and individuation is no longer needed for education. Everyone has his own personality and ideas.

No matter how ordinary, how young or how old they are, they already have their own personality. They already have their pursuits. Everyone has their own attitude.

Host: what does Mr. Fu Kui think of this view?

Fu Kui: fashion is more detailed now. Your own style, your purpose, and the occasion you wear, what else is there? This consideration is more appropriate. It has a certain personality in the proper range. It may give people some feeling of fashion.

In the near future

Will affect the world

Compere: clothing is just an element of fashion, and there are many connotations to be integrated into it, including the very important temperament which Mr. Guo has just said, can we control, a beautiful dress, and you are dressed differently from other people. We have had great changes in these decades.

Su Baoyan: I am responsible for international exchange and training.

Host: what is the status of China's clothing brand in the world now?

Su Baoyan: our brand needs to serve our 1 billion 300 million people. Our own market and consumer groups account for 1/3 of the world market. A European country, for example, French designers, comes out to consider the international and domestic markets. The French population is only 6 million, we are 22 times that of China, and the Chinese market has become part of the international market. So our brand here first serves our own consumers well, and our own market has already served well.

1/5.

After satisfying our market, it is more objective to move towards the international market in the case of surplus strength.

Over the years, our designers have also gone out a number of times, such as Jiangnan Buyi, now in Russia, Tokyo, Southeast Asia have opened shop, the response is also good.

Therefore, we also have some designer brands, and some industrial brands have begun to go to Eastern European market and have achieved some success.

But we are like Europe, France,

This tradition, from advanced customization, from luxurious clothing to one step at a time, is different from the second line and three line brand.

Our industrial base starts from the processing industry, and we go from low to high. If we radiate the whole world from advanced customization, our cultural foundation is not equal to their cultural foundation.

In general, they are from high to low radiation, we are from low to high to upgrade, these two are getting closer and closer, our industry is getting closer and closer to international standards.

Moderator: this should be a real connection, not that we go after others.

Su Baoyan: combined with our national conditions, combined with our own consumers.

Host: next, let's ask Mr. Guo, the trend of clothing, including the female stars, whether they choose the big brand or the advanced customization when they attend the party.

Guo Pei: used to wear

Is to reflect their own standard, or to reflect their various aspects of positioning, now is not, especially in the past two years of change, we are afraid of crash.

I wear an international top brand. This brand is easy to show. We see advertisements, the difference between the effects of many models and the difference between them, or which year it is popular. She has a lot of concerns, so the choice is different and the attitude is different.

Now they choose more advanced customization, so why is it formed in the domestic advanced customization market, and because of the needs of these stars, besides them, there are still many ordinary people's needs. They want to embody their own personal requirements.

Moderator: Mr. Fu, will these custom clothes be integrated into the concept of Chinese style, and also popular red and embroidered, including some manifestation of Cheongsam in the world fashion trend.

Fu Kui: I think the Chinese elements go further from last year.

Blowing the world, it is still a continuation. We also have customized brands.

Many female stars or high-end customers demand that they should have their own personality and reflect some national feelings.

Moderator: next time, I particularly want to introduce Mr. Fu Kui to you. You are a white-collar dress custom. Tell us about the change of formal clothes. I also saw the photo provided by Su Su.

This is a 95 year shot, or a grid, and now a lot of solid colors are more.

Miss Su deliberately brought it over.

Guo Pei: at that time, the lattices were still the most fashionable.

At that time, everyone wore plain clothes.

Because I am also a brand, Tianma is also a famous brand in China. At that time, we were all the most popular color suits, blue and pink, including white, white collar. Actually, the earliest success was color selection. No one dared to wear white, white first produced little white fabric, dirty, and this color wore too long.

Host: is that right?

Guo Pei: Yes, in the early 90s, the first success of white collar success was to produce white cashmere coats and then white suits.

You see, the choice of a color can lead to a fashion.

Like the red skirt you mentioned, I remember it earliest.

I graduated 86 years ago. I feel like a wasp.

Host: did you feel the color on the street at that time?

Guo Pei: a fresh color.

I learn by myself.

In my heart, I can't help but feel like a breeze. I really like it. It's not what you wear and what I wear. It looks beautiful on you. I don't think what we will have in the two crash. It's not like today, we don't emphasize individuality.

Moderator: consciousness has changed, the original pursuit of commonality, now is the pursuit of individuality.

Fu Kui: we have a set of products today. Spring and summer products are very close to this, and they sell very well.

Host: back to ancient times.

Fu Kui: This is not our style.

So simple, it's a small stand.

Guo Pei: this lattice is the vintage fashion.

Su Baoyan: in the mid 90s, because our brand just got up, that is, brand awareness was just awakening, but the European style was very advocating. The suit represents the rise of the garment industry in a certain sense.

97 years later, the return of Hongkong in the 97 year, we reflect on the use of some of our own national factors.

We have selected some Chinese elements in 98 years.

。

Host: is this Cloisonne?

Su Baoyan: This is the cheongsam made of blue cloth.

Host: looking at this picture, we can see the vicissitude of clothing.

At the end of the program, we invite three teachers to look ahead to the industry you are engaged in. What will our clothing industry look like in the future?

Su Baoyan: we will definitely introduce our own in the near future.

Our own internationally renowned designer.

Moderator: China's big names, our own people, our own clothes.

Guo Pei: and I think this time will be very short. It may be 35 years. China's high fashion will appear on the international stage.

Fu Kui: the clothing industry is still on the garment industry. In a few years, China's garment industry will take the lead in the world.

Moderator: Mr. Fu said so well that Miss Su started a head, and the two teachers kept adding attributive and adverbial words. In a word, our clothing brand will go to the world. Our designers will also be the world's most famous designers.

。