Nino Cerruti: The World Of Men's Clothing, Change And Invariance

80 years old Nino Cerruti Walking in the garden of Yongfu club in Shanghai, the eaves and yellow leaves in the late autumn, Chinese traditional furniture and cool air make him feel comfortable. When I was 20 years old, I threw myself into it. Clothing brand Cerruti 1881 today Latest fashion The position of the market is as high as that in his fashion world, when he followed his Giorgio Armani (Giorgio Armani) and his Narciso Rodriguez, Peter Speliopoulos, Veronique Nichanian, etc. Designer It has also become a master figure. Nino Cerruti came to Shanghai to celebrate the opening of 100th special stores in China by Cerruti 1881. He wanted to talk with his friends and staff at the party, and sat down with several young Chinese fashion designers to have a good chat.

　　
Nino Cerruti took out a note from the bag and read several upcoming meetings. Designer The names include Qiu Hao and Uma Wang. "Their clothes are made of Cerruti fabrics, and it must be interesting to communicate with them." In his view, fabric is the foundation of quality clothing, especially today's men's clothing world, the quality of fabrics, the development and exploration of new functions have become the main trend. Looking at Nino Cerruti's appearance, I know how the fine fabric helps a man to emit the spirit of the "big man" in his hands and feet. His suit looks like a perfect fit, but his texture is lazily relaxed. The color of his shirt and trousers is showing warmth in the sunlight, which seems to echo with the glasses hanging on his chest, the stick on his side and the silver hair on his head. He wore a CASIO electronic watch on his wrist. It was a gift from his design team, and there were no other decorations. However, he took out a crumpled printed handkerchief with Florence style from his trouser pocket and called the handkerchief the "favorite thing to carry".

　　
Simple and elegant, never be eye-catching, always strive for comfort. It seems more difficult to remain comfortable, because there are too many things to prepare for comfort. Nino Cerruti's experience of men's clothing for 80 years is changeable. What he insists on has never changed.

　　
First financial daily: how do you evaluate your reform in men's clothing?

　　
Nino Cerruti: Men's clothing was very solemn in the 60s of last century. Many designers have some good ideas, but it's hard to become a reality. The innovation of Cerruti and I is that creativity and action are ahead of schedule. The elegant and elegant style of men's clothing that I have always maintained is just like the way of life of a city Italy man, which is opposed to Fast Fashion. In addition, in the men's clothing production volume, I want to make the factory clothing and design creativity well balanced, clothing made, should not be drowned in mediocrity, must have personality and style.

　　
Daily: Cerruti 1881 men's clothing gives people the impression that they are high quality but low-key, unlike other brands that are fashionable and luxurious. Do you want this style yourself?

　　
Nino Cerruti: the design style I want is simple, clean, comfortable, the color is also clear and Orthodox, blue is blue, beige is beige, looks comfortable, maybe every season will not be so dazzling. Some people have to design their bodies, such as shoulders, but I only like loose and good shape. To support this comfort, fabrics are very important. Fabric is like my child. I demand it to be of the highest quality.

　　
Daily: when it comes to fabric, it is getting more and more attention in the field of men's clothing. What do you think?

　　
Nino Cerruti: many years ago, men's clothing, especially western style clothes, became more and more important. People began to consider making cloth lighter, and then lighter and lighter. A suit or jacket's fabric was even lighter than a shirt. Now people find that too soft and soft fabrics are not good enough to dress properly, so they slowly turn back and add a little bit to the fabric. This is the trend now. We are also doing these things, with the result of a high-tech R & D fabric, woven with natural and finest fibers, and added into the environmental protection ingredients. This kind of fabric called Techno Earthy is fresh and has just been developed. This winter will be put on the market, and brands like Moncle are already interested in it. Its flexibility is very strong, it is convenient for people to wear easily, not only for men's clothing, but also for women's wear. Our Cerruti factory made strong functional uniforms for the army during the war years. Therefore, the production of this sport sense fabric has strong technical strength and accumulated a lot of experience. Now we have joined many hi-tech industries, and are more avant-garde for the research and development of fabrics.

　　
Daily: what are the changes and trends of menswear you have experienced?

　　
Nino Cerruti: in the past, the mainstream of men's clothing was made for British gentlemen, with many restrictions and rules. Later, it became more freer. I think men's clothing changed greatly and became more and more comfortable, and the types and functions were also refined. The daily wear, outdoors, outdoor sports and formal occasions became more and more casual. Now our progress is to mix the two styles of formal and leisure. Semi formal clothes are the general trend for today's men. This trend should continue for some time. In terms of material quality, it will become more humane and more likely to add new technology.

　　
The interesting point is that men's materials are very popular with women's designers. For example, Bottega Veneta, Celine, Balenciaga and other large women's clothing, many materials are selected from men's clothing. I have just sold some materials for these brands, and the possibility of fabric has been extended. Now the world of women's clothing, originally used to make the fabric of suits, they do not, very feminine, very typical women's material, they do not like it. They want to occupy the fabric in the middle, so elegant and elegant, with material and sporty material.

　　
Daily: what is it that makes you feel comfortable in fashion? What makes you think you can't?

　　
Nino Cerruti: what I can't see is that there are many hypocritical people in the fashion world who act hypocritically, and those who are unreasonable, arrogant, and talented. Of course, I am also pleased to see that many excellent designers are working hard and struggling. I think fashion and football connect the world and bring different people together. Fashion is a way of self expression. It is a way of appeals of self emotion. Fashion should be something that people naturally love. It is very emotional, and does not make humanized and personalized things replaced by icy objects such as machinery and industry. However, there are some fashion companies who want to make money and want to make big markets. This is not good. You should not only focus on business, but also maintain a unique and emotional style.

　　
Daily: what designers do you admire?

　　
Nino Cerruti: now I like Celine's Phoebe dress (Phoebe Philo as designer), Bottega Veneta's menswear (Tomas Maier as designer), Lanvin's design is very good (Alber Elbaz designer), and Marni (designer Alber self created brand), not big, but design is very interesting, also very talented, and Watanabe Junya's disciple (Watanabe Junya), his new outdoor men's wear is very good.

　　
The danger of men's wear now is that too many men's wear is made by women who only wear women's design experience. Men's fit and women's fit are two concepts. They are not very clear about men's fit and men's needs. Besides, the designers lack knowledge about fabrics at present. They design clothes, but fabrics are chosen by others. They are picked by assistants. I don't like this. I think designers should not only know shapes but also design materials. Now, the designers are very good at basic skills and know everything from beginning to end. Everyone wants to be "fast fashion". In a short time, they want everything, just want to take a shortcut and go all the way to the sky. You know, you see in magazines that beautiful people wear beautiful clothes and think this is fashion, but this is only 5% of fashion success, 95% behind these.

　　
Daily: what kind of clothes do you like? What do you think of dressing?

　　
Nino Cerruti: when designing, I will always ask myself, will I like it? What am I doing? Will women like it? Women will naturally look for answers in the mirror, and men should learn to look in the mirror. There is no best looking clothes, only clothes you like to wear. Of course, some people dress me very much, such as Europeans, blond hair and light skin. They are too ugly to wear sunburn makeup, and brown clothes are not suitable for them. Japanese are very interesting. They can wear all kinds of exaggerated clothes and even extreme clothes. In my view, Oriental women have an advantage in dressing, because their body language is beautiful, and they seem to have stories. They do not mind their skinny. I think European women are tall and clumsy, with less flavor. Women are born with the advantage of body language. Men are not born. If men pay attention to posture and movement, they will greatly enhance their attractiveness.