Viewing Women'S Costumes From Lantern Festival In The Ming Dynasty From Jin Ping Mei And Related Historical Materials

Women's dressing up is often the most prominent in festivals, and even has obvious characteristics beyond the order of festivals. Novels of the Ming Dynasty Jin Ping Mei It is best to note footsteps, for example, the twenty-fourth time, "to say," Heaven lantern, earth lantern. " The ten month of the first month, the family drank happily. Ximen Qing and Wu Yue Niang occupy the throne. The rest of Li Jiaoer, Meng Yulou, Pan Jinlian, Li Pinger, Sun Xuee and Simon elder sister are all sitting on both sides. They are all dressed in splendid clothes, white silk coat and blue skirt. Only when she was dressed in red sleeves, the fur coat of the marten, the flowers on the top, the pile of pearls on the top, and the half of the Phoenix Chai. During the Lantern Festival, women were not dressed in red and green except for Yuet Niang. They all wore white silk jacket. But in general, people wear light colored clothes in summer and dark clothes in winter. Women's clothing on Lantern Festival in the Ming Dynasty The custom. Women like to wear white silk during the Lantern Festival. custom There are many related descriptions in Jin Ping Mei, which can complement each other with the historical data of Ming Dynasty.

The custom of wearing white in Lantern Festival was first seen in Song Dynasty. "Wu Lin old events" records: "the eve of the festival, women are wearing pearls and jade, moth, jade, snow willow, Bodhi leaves, lantern balls, pin gold, cicada mink sleeves, and noppa, and the clothes are still white, under the moon is also appropriate. "II, this is the general costume of women in the Song Dynasty when they go out to watch the Lantern Festival. Not only is their clothes more white, but also" jade plum "and" snow willow "are all white. In the Jin Ping Mei, the female characters also wear white silk jacket during the Lantern Festival. At the same time, the description of women's clothing also plays a great role in portraying the character and status of the characters. A few examples:

Fifteenth in the first fifteen months of the month, Li bottle asked Ximen Qing's family members to eat wine and look at the lamp. "Li Jiaoer, Meng Yu building and Pan Jinlian are all white silk coat". As the saying goes, "to be handsome, three points filial piety". White silk jacket gives people the impression of elegance and beauty, which adds a little frivolity. This kind of deportment is reasonable in the carnival festival of all people participating in the Lantern Festival. Although Wu Yueniang is also a young woman, her family status and social status make her play a solemn role. Dress must be dignified and dignified. Her manners must be dignified and generous. It is commensurate with the identity of the housewife and the great aunt. It is not suitable for ordinary girls and young women.

Forty-second return to the king of six children to Simon home guests, "wearing a twist on the head, A bun, wearing purple Lu Yi coat, black coat, white silk thread skirt", "not very rubbing the lead powder, learn a Chinese dress up, with lilac ears." After all, Wang Liu came to visit other people's home. Although he was romantic, he still learned to dress up.

The Seventy-eighth time is also the Lantern Festival. When it comes to the busy hours of fireworks, "blue has changed the golden marten fur coat, and Mrs. Lin is a white silk jacket." Lin was very old and came to visit, but she still did not know that her dress was solemn. She could see that she was old and immodest and echoed with her later description of Ximen Qing and adultery. However, when the blue lady's age is less than twenty, he wears "the golden marten fur coat", revealing her self importance.

The custom of Lantern Festival Lantern Festival flourished in the Tang and Song dynasties. After the Ming Dynasty, officials were committed to restoring the custom of the Song Dynasty. Although the Lantern Festival in the Ming Dynasty was inherited from Tang and Song Dynasties, it was rich in secularity and entertainment.

The custom of walking all diseases is related to poetry and local chronicles in the Ming Dynasty. The basic content of this folk custom is that there is a general expression in Shen Bang's "Wanzhao miscellaneous notes, folk customs," in the Wanli calendar: "Yuan Xiaoyou's light market,... Go to the bridge to touch nails and remove all diseases." on the sixteen night of the first month, women's group visited and prayed to avoid disaster. Where there is a bridge, the 35 rates are one after another. Or the clouds pass through the years, so that they can raise their hands and touch the door. It is night and night. Zhengyang gate, Chongwenmen and Xuanwumen are all closed. Factory Wei Lieutenant patrol the Da Dan. Fireworks are also part of some areas, such as boarding City, temple, disease, stone and so on. "III Hongzhi Zhou" with "walking all diseases" also describes the main character and purpose of walking all diseases. My aunt and grandmother took the sister-in-law, dressed in dressing up and went all kinds of diseases. Vulgar speech, this night ghost hole, all diseases into the dust. Otherwise, this year and many diseases, arms dry eyes dark bias head wind. Step on the street embroidered shoes, win the drinking prescription two minutes of water. "IV can be seen that people walk in all kinds of diseases for the sake of good health, but it is not always women's behavior to go all the way, such as" Jiangning County Chronicles ":" Xiao drum's voice, lights and riddles, and women's nocturnal walk (proverb goes all the way) "is only a joint action of men and women. V in some counties and cities in Shandong, men and women also walk all kinds of diseases. However, most areas are women's activities, so the story of Qiong Tai: "Sixteen nights, men avoid, women gather out, or visit relatives, throw bridges, and expose temples. "VI Jiajing" Changde government records "cloud:" women invited each other, became a team of Xiao Xing, the name of all diseases. "VII Chong Zhen," Jing Jing scenery, light market, "Yun:" women are in a hurry to eliminate diseases, go all diseases, and walk bridges. " "VIII, therefore, we can see that the situation of all kinds of diseases is similar to that in the north and the south. There are names of diseases, such as going all kinds of diseases, stepping on peace, walking along cloud bridges, walking bridges and touching nails, and so on. {page_break}

In the golden lotus, four lantern festivals were written, at least ten times. In particular, the twenty-fourth rounds of walking diseases are the most detailed. After describing the family's happy drinking, Chen Jingji took the women out to display fireworks, watch lights and visit relatives. "Later, Chen Jingji took the crowd to walk hundreds of sick children. Under the moonlight, it was like a fairy's, all white silk jacket, all over the gold, and the head was covered with pearls and jade. They also set off fireworks and watched lights. They also went to see Li bottle. When he came home, he found that Han's wife was shouting and scolding. She had gone with all the others, and no one in the family had been opened and opened the door to steal the dog and some other things. Chen Jingji mockled all the women with hundreds of sick children and golden lotus. In the fifteenth, forty-first and Seventy-eighth times, seven times were mentioned directly.

The most noticeable thing in all walks of life is women's clothing. In the Ming Dynasty, "Jing Jing scenery spring field" said, "women are wearing white silk shirts, and the night line is called" no waist and leg disease ", and it is said to go along the bridge. To every door in the city, the hands are daring to touch nails. "IX here shows that women (or at least Beijing women) are wearing white shirts when they go through all kinds of diseases, and this is also true in the Golden Lotus. When the women walked on the lantern night and went through all kinds of diseases, the white silk dress just proved that "Jin Ping Mei" was written in the Song Dynasty with the customs of the Ming Dynasty.

In the Ming Dynasty, women not only wore white silk jackets while walking on all kinds of diseases, but also dressed in white silk jackets for casual wear on Lantern Festival and even throughout the year. This can still be found in the Golden Lotus.

The fourteenth time is "nine in the beginning of the month," Li asked Pan Jinlian, who was born in Zhijin, and had never had a child's 57. He bought a ritual sedan chair, wore a white silk jacket, a blue Zhijin skirt, a white Ning Di Ji, and a bead hoop. "(never had the son 57, the bottle was dressed as a beautiful dress and went out to celebrate the birthday with the people. )

White silk jacket and even other white clothes are popular with women during the Lantern Festival. Therefore, Chun Mei asked Ximen Qing to wear white silk jacket on the twelve day of the first lunar month and put it on the Lantern Festival. It is clear that wearing white silk jacket is very popular during the Lantern Festival, and women must catch up with fashion. Wu Yiner, a Geisha, is no exception. She does not want Satin clothes. Baba wants the old white silk coat of Li bottle, and finally gets the plain white cloth jacket, "the picture is lined with Bijia". In the forty-fifth time, Wu Yiner was left behind by the moon mother and went to the grandmother's home to go to all the sick children. But because there was no white silk jacket, she smiled and said, "when I was asked to give her something, Li Niang said," I don't have a white coat to wear. "Li bottle Er way:" my white jacket is wide, how do you wear it? "Called Chun Chun:" take the key, in the big kitchen cabinet take a whole white silk to come with elder sister. "To your mother," the tailor cut two good clothes for you. "Ask:" what elements do you want to spend? " The picture is lined with children. "... for a moment, from the upstairs, we brought a Songjiang broad machine with plain white silk, and the next one wrote thirty eight to two, and gave it to Wu Yiner. "

Although the white silk coat is loved by women of different social strata, it has no trace at the formal banquet. The forty-third time of the golden lotus is still during the Lantern Festival. "Wu Yueniang and Li Jiaoer, Meng Yulou, Pan Jinlian, Li Pinger and Sun Xuee are dressed up like powder makeup, jade carving, beautiful and dazzling, and all two doors meet. "Although Li Jiaoer, Meng Yulou, Pan Jinlian, Li Pinger, Sun Xuee and others can dress randomly at their own banquet, they must wear beautiful flowers at the formal banquet for Mrs. Qiao's five wife. The subtext shown in the white silk jacket shows that it can not stand on a large table, but it is still a casual dress.

Why do women like to wear white clothes on Lantern Festival?

In the Song Dynasty, "Wu Lin's old story" said: "on the eve of the festival, women... The clothes are mostly white, and the next moon is suitable. "X" Jing Jing scenery "introduces the poem" walking all diseases ":" white silk shirt is shining through the moonlight, passing through the bridge to all diseases. " "Xi" Beijing customs chanting "cited Gao Shi Qi" the bamboo sticks in the street "cloud:" crow bun plate cloud inserted green Cui Qiao, shallot silk shallow moon "Hua Jiao. In the late night, with the door in front of you, the spring breeze will go away. "Betting:" the sixteen night of the first month, Beijing Women's travel street, the moon bridge, eliminate all diseases. There are many white onion Satin shirts for night gowns. "XII above materials emphasize the same factor: moonlight. On the night of the Lantern Festival, the moon is bright and bright, and women wear white clothes, that is, "luminous clothes". They will be more vivid, beautiful and elegant, and at the same time they will be somewhat frivolous. Because the imposition of women in the Ming Dynasty is very serious, there are few opportunities for women to travel in Ping Yue. Therefore, in a carnival like festival such as Lantern Festival, they need to indulge themselves and show off their beauty and happiness. Wearing white clothes is comparable to the moonlight.

White clothing has different fabrics, because the texture is gorgeous and noble, it can show and wear the identity of the wearer. So the white fabric is the most popular, and the white silk is the best. The so-called "Song Ling" is the silk cloth produced by the Songjiang government in the Ming Dynasty, so it is called "Songling". "According to the clouds" according to Volume 2 "remember customs" said: "Aya cloth, is a native product in Song County. Old silk is still thick and heavy, but today it is light and thin. XIII also mentioned this point in the Golden Lotus. The sixty-sixth time, Ximen Qing said, "next year, I will send Cui Da Ge to ship a ship from Hangzhou. He will go to Songjiang to buy five pieces of cloth for sale. "Forty-fifth times," he brought a piece of Wu Yiner from the upstairs to Songjiang. "According to the weights and measures of the Ming Dynasty, sixteen two is equal to a Jin Jin, and a loose silk cloth is less than two Jin 42. {page_break}

The cloud is actually Songjiang. Songjiang and Shanghai are the birthplaces of China's cotton weaving industry. It first developed in the Yuan Dynasty and entered the heyday in the Ming Dynasty. "The agricultural policy book" quoted "Songjiang annals" said: "(Songjiang) Aya, cloth two things, clothes quilt the world. "XIV Ching Ye Meng Zhu," the world compiling "volume seven also said:" my city (belongs to the Shanghai of Songjiang) real estate kapok, in the western Zhejiang county, textile and cloth, clothing by the world, and folk tax, public and private expenses Lai Yiji, Gu planting wide, and ridge rice. "Again," cotton cloth has been produced in our city for three times, while the flying flowers of the Pine City, Yun Dun and eyebrow are not woven. On the top of the list, it is the most refined one. Shuura Jinno, the city of the city, has all the way to Qin, Jin, Jing and Bian Lu. It is narrower than the standard cloth, while the elders are in the middle plane, taking Hu Guang, Jiangxi, Guangdong and Guangxi Road, price and standard cloth. In the past, when the price of cloth was in vogue, the merchants who came from the rich and powerful merchants paid more attention to the market. The number of tens of thousands of silver companies was more than ten thousand, or tens of thousands of them. "XV" is almost identical with the description in Jin Ping Mei. The white silk of Songjiang County sells to the north. Besides the quality of white silk, it has nothing to do with this custom.

"Jin Ping Mei" is written in the Shandong area. But the custom of wearing white clothes during the Lantern Festival is not originated from Shandong, but is the fashion of Beijing. "The lantern song of the capital city" by Mengyin public official said: "white B cut clothes and jade heads, and short C bun learn Suzhou. "Cai Shiji's" Lantern Festival song "in Huangpi:" look at the lights and see the bridge, and the white cloth is covered with Jiao Jiao. "Zhou Shi Su" "go all diseases" poem cloud: "white silk shirt shine moonlight, passing through the bridge to all diseases. "XVI these poems are quoted from the" Jing Jing scenery ", which describes the customs and customs of Beijing. They depict the custom of the Lantern Festival in Beijing, proving that there is such a festival custom in the Ming Dynasty.

Folk custom has the nature of broadcasting, and once it meets the right social soil, it will soon spread to other areas with similar social conditions. In Ming Wan Li, Wang Xiangchun, "Qi Yin," the Lantern Festival said: "I like to see young children playing River lights, lions stone fence. Kuo bun and high skirt are all finished in Beijing. "Bet": "County town old and simple, dress Kusano." It is gradually becoming more and more popular. In the Lantern Festival, women will have loose silk, while Yanjing fashion is also a pity for the people. This dress is most unlucky: white, soldier elephant also; Aya, Ling also. Women and Yin are also. In the early spring of the Yuan Dynasty, Sheng De was in the wood. He should follow the wood color and remain green. "You know little gentlemen, Hu doesn't want to go as far as Si!" XVII notes from this poem that Lantern Festival women must wear white silk, which is the fashion of Beijing. After the founding of the Ming Dynasty, Beijing became Beijing's national political and cultural center. But what is more important is the sprouting of capitalism in the Ming Dynasty, the prevailing trend of pleasure among the citizens, and the new psychology of seeking differences, which made Ji'nan people abandon the old customs, "step towards the capital" and "fear nothing." As the capital of Ji'nan Province, Shandong naturally affects other parts of Shandong. It is not surprising that women wear white silk jacket during the Lantern Festival in the Golden Lotus.

Men also wear white silk jacket, "Jin Ping Mei" the forty-sixth time to write Ximen Qing on the Lantern Festival day Costumes: "Ximen Qing with loyalty to the crown, silk velvet crane cloak, white silk jacket son. "It's more and more Ximen Qing's wave. And women are not only dressed in white during the Lantern Festival, but also in Ping Yue. For example, the eleventh time, "Ximen Qing just entered the threshold, and saw two people in the family wearing silver A bun, showing four temples, sapphire pendants on the ears, white gauze shirts, silver red, a skirt,..." The fifty-ninth time, "Zheng AI Yue..." on the white lotus root to the Jin Xian dress, undergoes purple purple jade pattern skirt, at the foot reveals a pair of red yuan Phoenix mouth. "It's also a dress. Women used to make clothes with white silk and white dresses to dress their children. This may only be done by families like Ximen Qing. The forty-third time, "suddenly see the spring dress up, holding the official brother. On the head was a gold and satin eight auspicious hat, wearing a scarlet coat, a white silk stockings, a satin shoe, a chest lock, and a small gold bracelet on the hand. "Official buddies are dressed up as a typical wealthy family.

In the early Qing Dynasty, the book was written in the early Qing Dynasty. The book wrote fifty-fourth times about the dress of Tong's grandmother: "wearing a gold line, seven beams, A bun, and mirrored black silk Baotou", wearing a month of green silk, a white silk flower, a white silk flower, a black silk skirt, a black segment, a snow white white silk high bottom bow shoe, a white silk embroidered knee pants, not tall, no short stature, no white, no black color, no ugly ugly appearance, no village's vulgar attitude. "XVIII's grandmother is particularly fond of white silk, and the skirt, shoes and trousers are made of white silk. This is obviously the dress of Ping Dynasty." grandma Tong is simply a "old woman."

The festival custom of women wearing white silk jacket during the Lantern Festival in Jin Ping Mei is very common in the Ming Dynasty, so that the white silk dress became a lantern festival in the Ming Dynasty. Not only that, white clothes are also very popular casual clothes in Ping Yue. Therefore, we can get a glimpse of women's customs in the Ming Dynasty from "Jin Ping Mei". This is also unique in the history of costume and folk custom.

There are three words that can not be found in the thesaurus, so they are replaced by letters "A, B, C".

A stands for the word "Qi" and "Di" according to the structure of the upper and lower structures.

B stands for the word "towel" and "harmony" according to the left and right structure.

C stands for the word "arrow" and "Zhan" according to the left and right structure.