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    How To Fashion Technology And Technology To Support Fashion?

    2010/12/20 11:42:00 99

    Men'S WearWomen'S WearChildren'S ClothingUnderwear

    Sidelights on the 2010 China clothing high and new technology achievements Exchange Promotion Conference


      


     

     


    Today, with the trend of globalization, information technology and low carbonization, how to fashion technology and how can technology support fashion?


    A new high-tech application industry


    In the afternoon of November 21st, and Eagle company.


    A temporary model worker carried out the body scanning experiment of HY- Scanner 320 fast garment system, surrounded by representatives of 2010 Chinese clothing high-tech achievements Exchange Promotion Conference (hereinafter referred to as the Promotion Promotion Conference) and the China Fashion Association's men's wear, women's wear, children's wear, clothing and accessories, Specialized Committee annual conference.


    At this point, the cameras at the four corners have been pointed at him.


    17 seconds, the computer data obtained his point cloud map, and then the data conversion software pformed his body data.


    After that, the system automatically completes the personality template and imports YIN- according to his needs.

    CAD

    The software will automatically code and arrange the material, then the fabric will be automatically cut into the tailoring system, and the garment will directly enter the sewing line.


    The whole process, less than four minutes, "achieved seamless connection from the body size to the whole process of garment cutting."

    And Eagle company related people said.


    And the Eagle Eagle "3D CAT/CAD/CAM clothing rapid production system" is one of the 11 contribution awards for the promotion and promotion conference. In addition, there are 8 Application awards, 1 promotion awards and 54 outstanding papers.


    "This basically reflects the current level of science and technology in China's clothing industry."

    Jiang Hengjie, director of the consultant and science and Technology Committee of China Fashion Association, said.


    The reason for convening such a conference is to systematically check the most advanced and practical application of new and high technology achievements in clothing, promote popularization and pformation, improve the contribution rate of science and technology and brand, and promote the development of enterprises.


    Indeed, in the past thirty years of reform and opening up, China's garment industry has been developing rapidly.

    However, the price of Chinese clothing at the low end of the international value chain is still not high. A large number of exports actually subsidize foreign consumers, and the trade war that may be triggered at the same time also makes Chinese enterprises shudder.


    At the same time, the financial crisis accelerated the pace of the layout of foreign brands to the Chinese market. The international brands that had long been fighting against the city were eyeing the Chinese enterprises with cost advantages.


    However, from the raw materials to business, pportation costs soaring, and wage increases due to the growing shortage of migrant workers, Chinese enterprises have to re-examine their development path.


    "China's apparel industry has seen a turning point in its development.

    adjustment

    And upgraded to the main feature of the new historical development stage, "Jiang Hengjie said.


    "Industrial upgrading is not only the key process to build a strong garment country, but also has become the only way for the development of industrial enterprises," said Chen Dapeng, executive vice president of the China Apparel Association.

    {page_break}


     

    As a result, since last year, the China clothing association has begun to formulate the outline of the "clothing power", the industry upgrading and pformation to explore the development path. "In the process of investigation, we find that scientific and technological progress is one of the most important ways to build a strong garment country."

    Jiang Hengjie said.


    Therefore, since April, the China clothing association has been preparing to hold an Exchange Promotion Conference.

    At the end of May, a meeting plan was initially established. At the end of June, a notice was issued on the promotion of the new high technology achievements of Chinese clothing in 2010.

    At the same time, a preparatory committee, a review committee and an expert group were set up, and a "General Assembly award evaluation method" was formulated.


    The event was finally responded positively to clothing and related enterprises, tertiary institutions and research institutions, involving 14 provinces and municipalities directly under the jurisdiction of Beijing, Shanghai, Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Shandong and Guangdong.


    "Through the preparation of this conference, we completely changed the concept of" no high-tech in the clothing industry, "Jiang Hengjie said." we have a deeper understanding of the "clothing industry is the judgment of the high-tech application industry".


    New imagination of flexible equipment


    This point, YOUNGOR chairman Li Rucheng agreed that in the industrial pformation, "the key is whether the product can be upgraded."

    In fact, at present, YOUNGOR shirts can be sold for 500 or 600 yuan, or even 2000 yuan.


    The reason is that YOUNGOR persists every year.

    Sale

    3% of the income is spent on technology development, and has developed VP shirts, DP cotton free ironing and other fine shirts.


    3502, the company chooses "advanced customization" as a means to seize the commanding heights of the market.


    In 2005, the 3502 senior teachers of the company took part in the personalized service to the headquarters of the armed police force, which was tailored to the head of the armed police headquarters, and the 660 thousand package was commissioned.


    With the gradual improvement of service level, 3502 high-end quality service has become a "trump card".


    The fixed source of red collar mass customization keeps coming from the United States.


    After carrying out the volume measurement, the data of the American customers are imported into the database through the Internet.

    There are about 5000000000 plates in the database, which correspond to customer data.


    In Qingdao, the 35 workstations in this department can be directly connected to the database, and adjust the corresponding version according to the customer data, and then directly cut through the automatic cutting equipment.


    "Mass customization production is informationalized, modular or modular, highly flexible, totally different from rigid large production line."

    Wen Lisheng, deputy director of science and Technology Committee of China Garment Association and deputy director of the national garment design and processing engineering center, said.


    However, there is a certain error in red collar anthropometry or manual operation. Mark Ed Faye's FACE72 website and PGM website have launched three dimensional fitting. The scanning system has the characteristics of short time, high accuracy, and many measuring parts.


    The HY SCANNER310, which is composed of the China Garment Association Science and Technology Committee, Soochow University and Eagle Technology Company, and Eagle garment system, not only realizes 3D body measurement, but also realizes the seamless connection from 3D body measurement to garment CAD/CAM.


    According to the introduction, the use of 3D CAT/CAD/CAM clothing rapid generation system, can quickly obtain human data, and can subdivide the measurement location, thus establishing the human body database.


    After having a huge human body database, the design of the human platform will be more standardized. At the same time, the interactive three-dimensional design can be generated by recreating the "real person", and finally the clothing samples and clothing pieces will be generated.


    Xiang Ming, a lecturer at the clothing Institute of Donghua University, has set up his own process in the "web-based E-MTM men's clothing customized production information system". First, a three-dimensional human body scanner is used to collect body data, while customers choose styles on the website.

    Then, the system completes the basic pattern and generates personalized patterns.


    Subsequently, the system loads the 3D virtual human stage of the customer and completes the virtual simulation suture of the garment.

    At this point, customers can see the virtual clothing effect of clothing, if the fitting is satisfied, the customer can be formally customized.

    The system also saves paper patterns and starts cutting and producing.


    In fact, the rapid production system is based on the rapid process of garment customization, and first of all, clothing styles and fabrics are selected according to customers' requirements.


    This still needs innovation.


    New changes in fabrics


    "This is a brand new industry," Li said.


    In January 8, 2010, YOUNGOR world's first hemp family life Museum opened in Ningbo.

    At present, the hemp family has opened 10 stores in Beijing, Shanghai, Hangzhou and Ningbo.


    Waiting for this day, he spent 30 years, "after 30 years of development, I have been thinking about how to break through the bottleneck of YOUNGOR clothing rapid development."


    After nearly 4 years of investment and nearly 300 million, YOUNGOR finally completed the improvement of hemp varieties, so that it did not possess the characteristics of refining drugs, but retained the functions of moisture absorption, breathability, mildew resistance and bacteriostasis.


    More importantly, YOUNGOR has begun to industrialisation. In 2009, in the Menghai Industrial Park of Xishuangbanna, the world's first industrialized production line of hemp fiber was formally put into operation.


    "During the 11th Five-Year, a series of breakthroughs were achieved in tackling new fiber materials, which not only gained wide acceptance in the domestic market, but also had the conditions to step onto the international market step by step."

    Du Yuzhou, President of China clothing association, said that developing new fiber resources is the first strategic subject for the development of modern industrial system of Chinese clothing.

    {page_break}


     

    Inspired by the wide application of twisting yarn in towel weaving, Ma Yucheng, chairman of Shandong zhe Xiang Textile Co., found that "weaving with non twisting yarns is not the same fabric that can get soft and hygroscopic properties."


    He read a lot of materials and visited several main fabric markets in China, but he did not find the twister weaving products, so he decided to develop it himself.


    But when the subject was raised, it was negated by the experts concerned.


    After years of hard work, Ma Yucheng finally developed and developed the final products of twisting twists and other casual fabrics, casual shirts and men's shirts from all kinds of 3s-100s fibers. The relevant technologies have also been officially authorized 1 patents, 4 new practical models and 6 international authorized patents.


    As soon as the product was put on the market, it received a good response, such as pure cotton multi-functional fabric shirt, the market price was 398-1278 yuan / piece, only a display shop in Gaotang County of Shandong, the monthly sales volume reached nearly 300 thousand yuan.


    Similarly, Lu Tai has developed a pure cotton 300 yarn. After finishing with liquid ammonia, the product has a silk luster and a comfortable handle.


    In order to develop shirts of better quality, Lu Tai first reformed equipment, improved sewing techniques to produce the "grey" shirt, and adopted the pure cotton textured lining bone in the suture area to overcome the problem of wrinkle in the shirt suture part.


    Similarly, Shandong Ruyi "Ruyi spinning" technology has also achieved a breakthrough in the traditional spinning theory and technology, reaching the international leading level as a whole and filling the gap in China.

    Du Yuzhou said.


    It is understood that in the traditional ring spinning and parallel spinning equipment, only one "twist triangle" device is added, that is, the reduction of the number of fibers, length and fineness of the spinning machine. The original 36 fibers can only meet the spinning limit of 18, which can only be used as raw material for low spinning and high spinning, and even the leftovers such as wool and doffing can be recycled.


    This approach has broken through the two bottlenecks of the textile industry at one stroke: first, it can scale the production of extremely high quality fabrics; two, the lower limit of fiber utilization will be greatly reduced, and the materials that used to be useless and difficult to use will be "ready to spun".


    If the technology is widely used in China, it can at least reduce production cost by more than 20%, increase output value of over 100 billion yuan and profit of more than ten billion yuan.


    New pformation of Technology


    "First, choose linings according to fabric characteristics."

    This is the case with the deputy director general of Yuya group and the non adhesive wool (linen) hand-made suit.


    Because of the non adhesive all wool (linen) linen, the hand-made suit is humid, the front body is wrinkled and the cover is easy to turn out.


    For example, the lining cloth is soaked in 40 degree temperature for 24 hours. After drying, the lining is cut, and the clothes and lining are steamed for two hours before drying.


    The lining is related to the front styling, and the retort line needs to pull up the 0.5-0.7cm.

    The curve of clothing and lining should be manually positioned first and then applied to liners.

    Manual handspike should follow the head curve.

    After application, steam is applied.


    To ensure that the shrinkage of sewing thread is similar to that of fabric, he chooses a flexible sewing thread.

    Use three strands of thread, two strands in the middle, and real silk thread on the ends.

    At the same time, the sleeves, ribs, bodies and post middle joints are all imported with green liquid.

    Besides, the head, collar and other parts should be manually returned.


    At present, he has completed the single volume single cut business in the United States, France, Italy, Canada, Japan, Korea and other countries, and has set up three free brand stores in Japan. In South Korea, there are 1700 stores in 34 stores.


    Qin Da, deputy manager of Rutai garment business department, put the technological pformation in the seamless sewing technology and its industrialization.


    "No matter which clothing changes are mostly in style, fabric and color," Lu Tai began the development of seamless sewing technology.


    Before, sewing technology was first applied to waterproof and breathable outdoor garments in Europe and America, as well as high elastic knitted fabrics.


    Through efforts, Lu Tai independently developed natural fiber "welding" materials, and developed the way and technology of garment fusion joints, "creating a historical pition from outdoor clothing and chemical fiber sports clothing to natural fiber fabrics and garments."

    Qin Da said.


    It is precisely because of the innovation of the manufacturer's technology that the shirts made by Lu Tai are good at ironing, high seams, and strong sense of three-dimensional. They are also identified by the national expert review group as "the leading international level".


    In the past few years, Lu Tai has been carrying out research on technology, the key technology and industrialization of ultra high count pure cotton fabric processing, and the research on the technology and industrialization of high flux membrane treatment and reuse, and won the two prize of national science and technology progress.


    In the same way, the "air catalytic worsted suit production and process research", "xylitol suit production and process research" and "permanent antistatic suit production and process research" have been recognized by the domestic textile and garment industry experts.


    It is precisely because of the idea and method of making artworks to make costumes, that Meyer can make orders for the foreigners, and only needs the other side's design style.


    The secret is that Meyer has adopted a soft processing method to increase the technological content. It combines modern streamlined production with meticulous and meticulous handwork, so that suits can better show the beauty of human body.


    One of the Meyer suits has a market price of over 30 thousand yuan, which contains 760 processes. "If you wear this suit on business, you don't need a special bag at all. If you put it in a trunk and put it in the trunk, you can hang it up once you reach your destination."


    Huayi's three-dimension art fashion products produced by three dimensional memory technology sell well in developed countries and high-end markets in Europe, America and Japan.


    The so-called three-dimensional memory technology is digital, thermoelectric hydraulic polymerization pfer printing technology integration, and comprehensively create a relief technology aesthetic feeling, special visual texture of garment finishing technology.


    Xi'an Polytechnic University and Shaanxi garment engineering technology research center cooperated with Anta to develop a comprehensive evaluation system for sportswear, and put forward general requirements and evaluation criteria for comfort and functionality of sportswear.


    A new attempt to quickly reflect


    Comfortable products, as soon as they enter the market, require rapid response from information.


    The warehouses that enter the US state are forklifts.


    At the warehouse exit, there is a code reader to read the code and weigh it with the computer.

    If there is no problem, the goods can be diverted to the corresponding places.


    After its listing, the United States invested 510 million yuan to establish an automated three-dimensional storage system, and its automatic sorting and distribution packing system was based on VANRIET in Holland.


    With this system, the working efficiency of each class is increased by 4 times, and the company's annual orders will increase from 4 to 7 times.


    Since the 70s of last century, barcode has triggered the first revolution in commerce.

    However, Gu Jing, an engineer of Shanghai Weishi Machinery Co., Ltd., believes that barcode does not have the ability to identify and identify multiple targets at the same time, and can not identify the product.


    As a result, "with the development of technology, a convenient, fast, accurate identification, tracking, and management to a single item, RFID technology has developed."

    Wen Lisheng said.

    {page_break}


     

    After each Jin Yujie's down jacket was implanted with RFID tag, each garment had its own electronic identity card, which could monitor the entire supply chain.


    For example, once a garment is found to be of a quality problem in the sales process, the enterprise can track the data quickly and know its production point, so that it can find problems quickly.


    For example, whether clothes are placed in warehouses or shopping malls.

    As long as customers have needs, salesmen can immediately tell consumers how many colors they are looking for through the portable RFID reader, and find this product at the first time.


    At the same time, because of the uniqueness of RFID tag TID, it provides a powerful help for clothing anti-counterfeiting, and basically eliminates fake products.


    More importantly, Jin Yujie greatly increased the accuracy of distribution and delivery, and the logistics speed increased by 30%.


    For Han Yongsheng, director of the center for industrial management and design engineering, Software Institute of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, in the face of the phenomenon that the market is not accurate enough to predict the shortage or stock of terminals, the "pull up replenishment" is used instead of the traditional "push".


    He believes that the whole supply chain adopts "drum buffer rope" + inventory dynamic buffer management mode.

    Store sales are like drums that dominate the operation of the entire supply chain, extending a rope from this drumstick, which affects the replenishment movements in every part of the supply chain.


    The number of stores will be increased and the number of links will be increased.

    At the same time, adjust the inventory water level dynamically, which will not lead to shortage and will not cause inventory and release more liquidity.


    Since then, inventories have been reduced and carbon emissions reduced.


    New appearance of low carbon economy


    Obviously, hemp fiber is environmentally friendly and low carbon.


    Hemp planting can reduce carbon emissions and slow down the harm of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Application of hemp can reduce environmental pollution caused by chemical treatment.


    After returning from Copenhagen last year, Hong Jin, the designer of the left bank costumes, began to "calculate" the next season's clothing to see how much carbon emissions per garment were.


    At the Copenhagen conference, he published the "green declaration of citizens on the left bank" at the Forum on saving the earth and China.


    He believes that a cotton T-shirt, from cotton cultivation, to production, to sales, to consumer washing, the whole process will discharge about 7 kilograms of carbon dioxide.


    And chemical fiber fabrics, carbon emissions will be even higher, he urged designers to use less leather products fabrics.


    In some developed countries such as the United States, the "carbon labelling" has appeared on clothing.

    The Clothing Industry Training Bureau of Hongkong has jointly established the sustainable development alliance of garment enterprises in Hongkong.

    CHIC2010 also raised the banner of "low carbon" and launched the first green environmental innovation exhibition design evaluation.


    Some well-known brands have launched green clothing, GUESS and H&M have launched organic cotton garments, and Giorgio Armani has been making raw materials of linen and cereal fibers.


    Chinese enterprises are also joining it. Ordos, Saussurea, cashmere and other famous wool textile enterprises have set up counters at large shopping malls to allow customers to exchange new cashmere sweaters with old cashmere sweaters at a high discount.


    Lining and the ECO CIRCLE recycling technology have completely removed dyes and other materials and recycled them without limit.


    Similarly, the left bank costumes started a "green lighting plan" in nearly 1000 stores nationwide, including lighting replacement, lighting system improvement and lighting period planning.


    The costumes on the left bank are also pushing a reward. Customers who have shoped for 1500 yuan in the shop will have the chance to get a green fashion environmental bicycle with a value of 350 yuan.


    Jack a sewing seam servo energy saving motor, according to the 8 hour working system, 300 working days per year, can save more than 500 yuan of electricity.

    The power consumption of the Procut XL7501 automatic high level cutting machine is only half that of the other main brands, and the working noise is less than 70dB.


    After using the steam ladder utilization technology and installing a small steam economizer tentatively, the Donghai garment factory can save more than 36000 yuan of coal consumption per year, and save more than 400 tons of water at the same time.


    Similarly, the company uses "steam ladder utilization" technology and steam energy saver, and the steam economizer enables them to reach more than 400 tons of coal per year and save nearly 300 thousand yuan annually.


    "In the first 4 years of 11th Five-Year, the output value of textile industry was reduced by 24.44%, energy efficiency was 38.69%, and the production capacity of polyester recycled fiber reached 7 million tons, with an annual output of 4 million tons."

    Du Yuzhou said.


    Obviously, "12th Five-Year" will remain the focus.


    However, "we should also be soberly aware that textile technology is still dominated by tracking and imitation, and the core technology of original scientific achievements and independent creation is not much."


    As a result, enterprises need greater efforts, and in the system it is necessary to "improve the technological innovation system and mechanism" to liberate innovation and vitality.


    It seems that there is still much room for technological innovation.

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