Fashion Designer Sewed Dreams And Interpreted Passion.

Set up: clothing

Sewing dreams and interpreting passion (Part one)

What is the bottle strength hindering the development of print players?

The bottleneck is easy to copy.

The work of a printer is seemingly monotonous and monotonous. In fact, there is great flexibility in it.

The level of print players is quietly reflected in the changes in the number of decimal places.

That's why different versions of the same type of printer are different.

Many copies of the international style of fashion clothing, but there is no big style and charm, why, the problem is on the version, in the copy time did not pay too much attention to the version, perhaps pay attention to, but do not understand how people through the version of the treatment reflects the design concept, version of the difference is not in place, it can not be likeness.

The chief technology officer grasps the clothing temperament and makes every effort to make it expand more space.

The temperament goes back in the past.

From the point of view of edition, temperament is more determined by version.

Mr. Hou of the Taiping Bird Group believes that the starting point of style change is more important in the change of color.

For example, the same kind of suit, all have the waist, some seem to be a bit of spirit, some at will, a little change in the waist line can achieve this effect, of course, there are other methods.

What kind of temperament the clothing reflects is the matter of the print master.

The flexibility of plate making is just a little bit, which requires savvy and aura, and savvy and aura can not be trained.

No training will tell you how much the texture, pattern and texture of each fabric affect the segmentation and looseness of the garment. How to deal with it?

These details can not be located, qualitative and quantitative.

As a result, this often becomes an ordinary player.

The bottleneck.

Tan Guochu, general manager of Shenzhen Bai Dai Li fashion company, is almost perfect or even harsh in the pursuit of the version. The cost of the version is high, and Tan Guochu is never stingy at this point. The most important thing he chooses when he chooses the edition is the aesthetic quality and savvy of the printer.

Bottleneck two learning ability

It is necessary for a printer to participate in appropriate professional training at different stages of his growth, so that he can make his technical and theoretical foundation more solid and systematic.

Through training, we can also acquire new skills and methods of plate making and increase opportunities to communicate with peers.

It is very beneficial for the career development of the printer.

However, training can not solve all problems of the development of the division, and the degree of skill improvement is also different.

The printer must constantly deny himself and accept the new things with an open mind. The regular print masters pay more attention to the techniques, but the technique should be constantly progressing and changing. For a long time, China's manual plate making has always been dependent on the proportional distribution method, but now the Japanese prototyping has obvious advantages, so the technical skills of the printer should also keep pace with the trend of the times.

The proper use of experience can add fuel to the progress, but sometimes it will become a resistance to advance.

Therefore, some large companies will choose some experienced print masters who are not very experienced when recruiting. This is why.

The version will change with the times. Taking men's suits as an example, men's suits in Ningbo, Wenzhou and even the whole country actually have a basic form. But why do men's suits in Wenzhou look more fashionable when compared with men's suits at the same price? Because the suit in Wenzhou is now becoming elongated in the version type, and the clothing in Ningbo is still going wider. This is mainly the designer's proposal, but the printer must also keep accepting the fresh version of the trend change.

Shopping in the mall, watching a press conference, browsing the latest magazines and pictures, these designers often do things that should also become a required course for print masters.

I hope we can see more of the designers in the future fashion activities, and let us know that fashion clothes makers are also very fashionable.

The technical problems that can not be ignored.

When it comes to print players, the core issue is technology.

Since ancient times, clothing has been cut, the East advocates the plane, and the West admired the three dimensions.

However, with the continuous progress of world cultural exchanges, the two are also constantly merging. Since our cheongsam began to have the first provincial road, our "tailors" have been constantly merging.

The concept of clothing began to take the first step from plane to solid cultivation.

And the west is also absorbing the advantage of quick and flexible plate making.

Now, active in the hands of print masters, there are mainly our traditional proportional distribution method, as well as the real comparison drawing method based on this, Japan's

At present, there are more evolvement of prototype method, of course, computer CAD plate making and stereo cutting.

Industrialization of garment CAD plate making

The concept of clothing CAD/CAM has entered the Chinese market for nearly 10 years, and domestic garment enterprises once considered it to be a spring festival. Its popularity speed is relatively slow. The fact that clothing CAD/CAM system is really popular in domestic garment enterprises is still a matter of nearly two years.

At present, clothing CAD plate making has been widely used in large and medium-sized garment enterprises. Although some details need to be processed manually, manual repair is needed, but at least in the process of pushing the template, the use of clothing CAD system has become more popular.

Small garment enterprises still mainly rely on manual plate making.

On the one hand, small garment enterprises are not very familiar with CAD plate making, on the other hand,

Enterprises are required to have corresponding technical capabilities, that is, the ability of users to use computers in addition to their computer applications. They also require users to have a solid foundation for manual plate making. In a sense, small garment enterprises do not have such high requirements for plate making as large and medium-sized garment enterprises.

A set of CAD, including software and hardware, is expensive, with a low cost of 3-5 yuan.

Some of the high-end ones will cost 5-8 yuan or more than 100 thousand.

In fact, whether or not to adopt CAD plate making depends on the degree of understanding and importance of CAD technology.

Mr. Lu Rui, sales manager of the power technology company limited, which runs CAD technology, said that if the starting point of the small garment enterprises is relatively high, the bosses of the enterprises will be more interested in the CAD plate making technology than the CAD bosses.

For example, the Tavio clothing company in Beijing is not large. The company has not been established for a long time. On the one hand, because the positioning of TAVIO (Tavio) brand is male fashion, the fashion style is more fashionable and neutral, which is not only reflected by the fabric color and style design, but also largely depends on the success of the version.

General manager Shang Fuhai and Design Director Wang are very experienced in the field of plate making. Because of the importance of the version and the understanding of CAD technology, the company has bought a whole set of comparable CAD plate making software and equipment from the very beginning. With the experience of 10 years of plate making, the master Ni Zhibin used the CAD plate making version, and one person undertook the whole plate making work of TAVIO fashion men's wear.

Effective improvement of work efficiency is the biggest advantage of computer plate making.

Using CAD to make a plate, one can complete the workload equivalent to 3 hands handwork, and the same is true of pushing.

CAD can not only improve work efficiency, but also make plate making more accurate and the arc drawn is more graceful.

However, the application of CAD plate making requires that the print master has considerable technical foundation and plate making experience. In order to make the CAD plate making better and flexibly, we must have certain attainments in the production of plate making, so that the advantages of CAD plate making can be brought into full play.

In addition, the advantage of clothing CAD plate making is that it can preserve the used templates well, form a model database, and deliver the warehouse function to the computer.

When you use it again, you just need to tune out the previous template and make changes.

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Master Ni Zhibin said that with the development of the industry and the fierce competition, the popularization of CAD is definitely a trend.

For print players, skill is not enough, and the ability to manipulate CAD software is also one of the necessary skills for a printer.

Is it "fair weather"?

Because of the relatively complicated and highly accurate production, the cutting is often applied to the production of high fashion, and it is difficult to be used in industrial production.

The high degree of stereoscopic cutting is the advanced goal of garment plate making. Therefore, stereo cutting and a skill as a necessary skill for a printer are also a good idea to combine garment design with plane cutting.

Although in normal industrial production, the use rate of stereotactic cutting is not high, but the printer pays great attention to the training of three-dimensional cutting skills, and the three-dimensional concept that the stereotactic brings them helps them to integrate three-dimensional perception into plane drawing.

If you have the certificate of autographs written by Mr. Sasaki, you can prove that his stereo cutting has a certain level.

The advanced training course of fashion designer has been held for many years by the society of fashion designers. Among them, Prof. Sasaki Jue, who invites the Japanese Institute of culture and clothing, mainly deals with the application of three-dimensional cutting and how to pform it into plane cutting.

This training course is a continuous process with a total of 5 phases. There are one month's off time learning in each year's vacation. Professor Sasaki's curriculum has 3 parts, and then there are two sessions of teacher Misaki Sato Noriko.

Professor Sasaki has taught hundreds of students since his first lecture in China 10 years ago, and more than 100 of them have received a diploma signed by Mr. Sasaki.

This course is very famous in the circle of print masters. Because of its strong practicality, it can solve many practical problems that people encounter in their work.

And teacher Sasaki is very strict, so that the certificate signed by Mr. Sasaki is sometimes higher than that of a professional college.

BORDERLIN, Bai Daili, Shenzhen fashion brand BOREDR,

Tan Guochu, the general manager of the company, said that the fabrics of Bai Dai Li fashion company were all made of high-grade imported fabrics. About 90% of the two brands were made by vertical cutting or combined with vertical cutting technology, and each edition had to be revised and carved by 3-4 times.

Tan Guochu said that in addition to design and fabric, the combination of vertical cutting is a powerful means to embody and guarantee the brand's "advanced" positioning.

The stereoscopic cutting is also the most intuitive modeling method for the help plate master to understand the human body structure. The vertical cutting plate is more flexible than the plane plate making, and can make the fashion style as desired, and can also be used as a direct design method.

Therefore, engaging in advanced customized plate making for a period of time is of great help to improving the level of plane plate making, and can accumulate rich human body structure knowledge and practical modeling skills from it.

General manager of Shang Wei Hai, Beijing's top garment company, admitted that he had been promoted to technical director in the half month of Li Ning Co, mainly due to his deep accumulation in the 2 years of advanced clothing ordering.

In this summer's advanced training course, reporters randomly visited several edition teachers. Some of them had been following the training course for nearly 2 years. Although they were not too expensive, they thought it was worth it.

Visible, the strong demand for the concept of three-dimensional cutting has been reflected in the practice of many print masters.

And according to the printing press, when the concrete application in the work is mostly the last revision, the vertical cutting method can be more precise.

A good edition is not calculated. How to measure the good and bad of a plate?

The evaluation criteria of good version of Mr. Taiping bird group are: the good version should not only be accurate, but also be inclusive and strong.

Garment plate making is indeed a work of digital quantification. It is a quantitative work based on the size of the human body (chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference). Besides, it also involves the comprehensive consideration and calculation of the data such as chest height, waist section, shoulder point, clothing length, saving, sewing, slit, collar, collar height, collar depth, etc., of course, the more accurate the number is, the better.

But clothing is not rigid "standard parts", beautiful and comfortable version is not a series of figures of the correct calculation can be done.

First of all, the national standard of the human body is only an average value. The human body is alive, dynamic, and also has its own characteristics. The general enterprise performs the national standard size is 160 / 84A, but not every consumer's chest circumference is the standard 84cm, then if a garment can make the bra with 83, 85CM or even 82, 86cm women wear very comfortable and good-looking, this model of tolerance is relatively strong, this is a good model.

Every edition of clothing is alive, and is endowed with a lot of humanity connotation. In the plate making, the print master must embody the design intention perfectly. Copying the formula is far from being possible.

What the printer wants to do is to apply the formula flexibly so that the rigid formula can be "softer" to the greatest extent, so that the clothes can be more adaptable to the wearer.

It is not a good edition to emphasize comfort or merely emphasize aesthetics. Good edition must be the best combination of beauty and comfort.

Be beyond all doubt,

The work is a creation of beauty.

The printing press is the process of re creating the beauty by flexibly applying plate making technology, and is the key link to pform the ideal beauty into reality.