Totem Of Uniform Status
"The German team's TM is so good that I can't concentrate!" Zhang Na, the fashion designer, sighed at micro-blog in the world cup in South Africa.
In the 1/4 finals of the German team and the Argentina team, the German team, a black shirt, defeated Argentina by 4:0.
Some people believe that there is a connection between the black uniforms worn by the German team and the all black uniforms of the Nazi SS. The tacit, tough and fast running black brings a unity, mysterious force and "victory of the will" (Yin Lichuan language), while the blue and white stripes on the Argentina uniform are similar to a sick and loose clothing that needs to be saved.
Uniform is a tool to show that people belong to a certain group.
Birds of a feather flock together. Every group needs some signs to distinguish them from other groups. Uniforms are the simplest way for society to divide people.
When you put on your uniform, it means your approval and obedience to some kind of rules. This is a dress entirely decided by others. As Philip Slater of the United States said, the people in uniform are only extensions of others' will.
But we live in an era of constant emphasis on self, freedom, independence, individuality and networking.
There are self and personality everywhere.
But from school to fast food shop to the army, uniforms are everywhere, and everyone tries to dress like everyone else.
Why?
The dress of power
In the discussion of uniforms, perhaps Leonardo Dicaprio (Leonardo DiCaprio) provides the most brilliant interpretation: in the "Catch Me if You Can", the handsome boy is not very reliable. Before he cheats every time, he will not forget to change to a real professional uniform, doctors, policemen, security guards, lawyers, pilots, bankers...
All the dependable professions you can think of are basically impersonated by him.
Here, uniforms not only indicate their identities, but also tell people the gender, class and social status of the wearer.
In Shakespeare's writings, the king made his heraldic wearing extremely luxurious uniforms to negotiate with the aristocracy and the bourgeoisie, so as to inform the other side: seeing my clothes is me.
If a physically weak person appears in a Chinese bus on Spring Festival visiting a family in a conspicuous military uniform, thieves and robbers will often be afraid of him.
His military uniform is like a protective shield with some magic power, which makes him feel secure in the face of a chaotic and impermanent world, and it also brings false impression.
Those who stand at the front door of high grade villas often wear uniform like the five-star general, which seems to be another kind of fox.
Among the employees of Foxconn, people wearing security uniforms and ordinary work clothes tend to belong to different strata of power, though they may all come from the same village and live in the same dormitory.
Obviously, uniforms are related to power, and every uniform is reflected in the will of power.
"The Yellow Emperor hangs clothes and governs the world." clothes, rather than uniforms, indicate that we express the values, ideas and ways of life we share with others in relation to the subordination of specific communities.
The uniform shows the existence of the will of a group. It is a system, an order, a rule. It gives people safety and gives people strength and glory.
Since ancient times, every dynasty has formulated its own dress system. "Public service" is the first thing that the rulers first value. Even in the Republic of China, from the beginning of the founding of the people's Republic of China, the "Regulations on the service regulations" have been formulated, which stipulates that the citizens, especially the civil servants, are meticulous in terms of material and color, and how many buttons they fasten. There are strict regulations on "quality silk, linen cotton, wool, blue and button five", and the civil servants' uniform "limited to domestic products".
Uniform is the dress of power, and the most powerful uniform is military uniform and police uniform.
Most citizens like the police wearing navy blue navy uniform, which is considered to be more competent for police work and better services.
If the police do not admire the "armed belt", the holster, the handcuffs, the baton and the fine, there will be no place to put it. The police will feel helpless and helpless.
What's interesting is that uniforms are sometimes not just a noun, but also a verb.
In Xi'an, a police officer named Wang Ping complained about the beating of people in the street. He told reporters: "playing" is a uniform from a professional point of view. If the police are subjected to rebellion in the process of handling the case, the police can use police equipment to subdue it.
The fact that a nurse wears white uniforms is what happened after bacteria were discovered. Until then, white and sacred have nothing to do with health.
The first nurse appeared in Prussia in 1830s. In order to distinguish from the black dress of the nuns at that time, the designer used dark blue and long coat with a blue cotton apron. The collar was made of white satin tape and a white mask on the chin.
Under uniforms, individuals are concealed and tamed, but counteraction always exists.
In the Hongkong gangster film, the inspector and the police officer, who are the leading characters, often dress alone to meet the enemy. It is more restrictive to him than he is. "Like everyone else", he has cut down his image of being a solitary hero. Unless he goes through a lot of difficulties and ends up successfully, he will be able to dress up and receive the reward from his superiors.
Here, uniforms represent the rules and glory of society, while casual clothes symbolize individual freedom and independence.
When he achieved success through individual efforts, he accepted the recognition and permission of the society. It was like the end of the heroes of the water margin.
Seduction of uniform
In a piece of news about "heaven on earth", employees in pornographic places are wearing "07 style" military uniform in performing programs.
Nowadays, the uniforms of power show people tend to be ambiguous in sexual popular fantasies in popular pop culture, and even a trend of subculture that is known as Uniform Fetishism. They all complain bitterly about the fanaticism of the B movie "Kick-Ass". "The only regret is that Loli is not wearing uniform."
In the age of "no love for red makeup, love and arms", when the women soldiers dressed in tight military uniform raised their thighs and jumped on the big splinter of the Red Detachment of women, it seems today that the dancing girls in Moulin Rouge are raising their sexy legs together.
Even in the movie and TV drama, the juntong women spy, who had been subdued by the Kuomintang, was the most "woman like woman" in the minds of men.
Sexual fantasies caused by uniforms are even more effective in Japanese pornography.
In the movie "the sun rises as usual", Joan Chen wavered under the doctor's white coats the body of the wind still lingering, while Cecilia Cheung wore a police hat on the "pornographic door" picture, pulling the police uniform, and provocative posture.
Even the classic Korean film "photo studio August" seems to be a "love story of a man with a terminal illness and a uniform woman".
He explained: "the heroine is a traffic patrol, who is in the car recording the kind of parking illegally. He wears a uniform and a uniform seduction every day." then he explains: "actually, the so-called uniform temptation is two points: first, when everyone is dressed alike, a real beauty will stand out and shine at this time. Second, if she wears a uniform every day, she will have a refreshing beauty when she does not wear it one day."
Social stratification or change of division of labor is like an image of human history of occupation, recording complex social changes.
In the early days of human occupation, there was no need for uniform except for religion, army, political system and a few services (such as family servants).
Because those jobs are not public in nature, people do not wear uniform in small social relationships such as family or handicraft shops. Uniforms are mainly in the form of official uniform.
One of the interesting images is Messenger (ancient Chinese post): in feudal times, civilians had no right to enjoy the services they provided.
China's Zhou Dai has a complete post official system, and the post's uniform is no different from the official uniform.
Before eighteenth Century, Europe's feudal agriculture and handicraftsmen had a very effective guild system, but rarely gave birth to uniform dress patterns, and commercial competition still did not progress to the image level.
In March 29, 1958, Elvis Presley, 23, arrived at Fort Hood barracks in Dezhou. Under the attention of many people, he wore a swearing in ceremony, cut short her hair and put on a uniform marked US-53310761, becoming a corporal of the United States.
It was during the army that Elvis experienced her mother's death and met the 14 year old Air Force Captain Priscilla and married him. He even got the welcome of the middle class.
Only in the height of business can some new professions form some kind of uniforms.
In the early Qing Dynasty, the appearance of Shanxi draft number gave birth to a "bodyguard" for escorting gold tickets.
According to the data, "when a bodyguard walks on a water darts, if he keeps a dart, he inserts darts on the cargo ship and wears clothes like".
Inserting no dart flag, not taking the "image" is based on the needs of the job.
The dart flag and the symbolic "belt" clothing show the obvious uniform characteristics.
The emergence of the uniform of modernity is related to the mode of production of modern capitalism, especially the industrial revolution.
In 1776, Adam Simy created the word "the division of labour" in the wealth of nations and advocated the use of social division of labor to speed up economic development. This concept determines the new structure of human society.
The industrial revolution brought the public space of the city, and also created various professions, thus creating all kinds of modern uniforms.
Outside the manufacturing industry, new jobs are mushrooms like big mushrooms. People are divided into small groups to engage in a specific task to improve social efficiency.
After the Industrial Revolution (usually the second industrial revolution), people came out of the traditional family work and were busy looking for a job to do a job that might have nothing to do with their families to feed their families.
Chaplin used the film "modern times" to portray the social life of the new age: the people who have not seen the faces are pouring out of the subway, like the pigs raised, to the factories.
Factories are only one of the sudden changes in the division of labor in the industrial age.
The first batch of western modern uniforms was born in the earliest public service oriented industries. Restaurants, public pport, public postal services, medical care and so on, which are familiar with modern life, appear at this time.
In 1765, the legendary first modern western restaurant Boulanger was opened in Paris, and people could enjoy courteous service from then on. From then on, the chef's hat must have 100 plucks, or at least 48. In 1825, Britain's Stockton to Darlington opened the world's first railway, the uncle with a cylinder cap became a fashionable occupation in the next 90 years. In 1865, the first modern war in Crimea broke out, and Nightingale (Florence Nightingale) was born. She founded the modern nursing profession and opened the first nursing school. Her student, Van Rensselaer, designed a brand-new white uniform for nurses.
More intensive changes began around 1870.
Turning out impressionist painter Van Gogh's works over the years, he will find that during the period from 1884 to 1889, he showed great interest in the new phenomenon of society -- uniformed workers.
He painted a uniformed weaver and light infantry, and a postman named Joseph Roulin created seven colorful portraits. Every Joseph hat was clearly "Postes".
The new uniforms are not yet plump, and the police uniform or postman wears a strong military uniform shadow, which proves that the uniform is the most original and influential master in the uniform category.
The future of Mutual Evolution
"In Japan, everyone is in uniform except for carpenters at the bottom of society."
Paul Forsell (Paul Fussell) talked about a visitor's description of postwar Japan. "Young, ambitious and ambitious businessmen wear the necessary black suits and white shirts and tie up the necktie for the image."
Taxi drivers and bus drivers like wearing white gloves.
Policemen, guides and elevator operators wear uniform like military uniform.
The boys were wearing a yellow cap and shoulder bags.
George Orwell's fictional "big brother is watching you!" in the novel "1984".
There is nothing to do with uniforms. What's so terrible is that even thoughts and life are all wearing uniforms.
However, many of the everyday clothes nowadays have hidden the shadow of the uniform.
In addition to the increasing popularity of Khaki and camouflage clothes (Camouflage), the classic uniform styles in the army entered folk life through Hollywood movies and various media channels, and became the "tide" of popularity and nostalgia.
Burberry's trench coat (Trench Coat) came from the trench in Britain in the first World War, and Gloveralll bought the right pattern and improved Duffle coat from the British navy.
In many countries, the concept of prison has been changed to help criminals reintegrate into society, thus abandonment of humiliating zebra prison clothes and even abolition of prisoners' clothing, allowing prisoners to enjoy a more complete personality in prison.
Even after the Paris Hilton was released from prison, she lost her little pain of short freedom, and even gave her more reasons to enjoy herself in prison clothes.
In the maid theme restaurant, the beauty attendants dressed in French Maid uniforms call the guests "masters" humbly. Their main servant relationship is only a cosplay, with games, entertainment, fashion, business motives, and no class rating.
Although people will catch "decent" and "power" elements through their uniforms, but in the open society with huge information flow, all authority can be dispelled and become the life adjustment of the people.
The clear-cut boundaries between what once regarded as "rigid" uniforms and the fashions regarded as "changing" are becoming increasingly blurred: fashion designers often use a large amount of uniform language in the new season series; the nameless designers behind their uniforms are asked by our customers to help us design a fashionable and beautiful uniform. Apart from the special professionalism, unity and mandatory wear, the boundaries between a large number of uniforms and ordinary garments are blurred.
The doctor took all kinds of hip hop headscarves to do surgery; the barber shop could not find the young masters in white coats. They had a great variety of styles to speak of a city popular; the exception of the fashion brands and the salesmen in the south of the Yangtze River were more comfortable than most of the customers.
"After the airlines invited fashion designers to design their uniforms, hotels began to join the trend," said Josh Sims, a Financial Times correspondent.
Obviously, templated rigid uniforms are outdated.
With the deepening of network life, uniforms are faced with a bigger unknown variable.
Taobao shopkeeper to show the public visual image, only the page of their shop, as for the display after the customer's warm contact with what clothes the customer wears, no one wants to know.
When social behavior is accomplished in a fictitious way, people get rid of the uniform requirement.
The future of the Internet age will be much faster than that of the industrial age. The answer may soon be announced.
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