Brief Introduction Of Handcraft Personalized Custom Made Garment Technology

The lion's hand-made personalized clothing directly inherits the classic handcraft of the "red gang tailor", and completely preserves the "four skills", "nine potential" and "sixteen character standard" in the suit making.

1, learning skills

There are two kinds of apprenticeship: "Learning Shop" and "learning workshop".

The red gang apprentice began to apprenticeship from thirteen to four years old.

A teacher in charge of a school should have a leader, and the leader is usually a friend or fellow of the owner or master, an apprentice guarantor for his apprentice.

Before entering the shop, you must sign an apprentice agreement.

When you enter the teacher's day and when you are full of teachers, you must give a banquet.

After going to school, some have to help teachers for one year.

One year later, the teacher can recommend it.

Because of the difficulty in making western style clothes, apprentices must practise basic skills, such as catching needles in hot water and pulling needles on cowhide to improve speed and strength.

After three years of being a teacher, he gradually grasps quantity, calculation, cutting and sewing skills.

2. Making skills

In the course of more than 170 years of development, the Hong Band tailor has formed the "four skills", "nine potential" and the "sixteen character standard" in the production of Western-style clothes, which has become the classic of Chinese tailored suits.

1, "four skills": knife work, hand work, vehicle work, and hot work.

"Sword skill" refers to the level of cutting.

"Hand work" refers to some parts that can not be directly operated by sewing machines or operated by sewing machines, which fail to meet the requirements of high quality, and use hand work to carry out stitches. There are 14 kinds of handicraft methods, namely, pull, string, throw, lock, nail, pry, tie, beat, pack, arch, hook, stir, touch and mix.

"Car power" refers to the operation of sewing machine level, to achieve straight, round, no crack, no trend, no arch.

"Ironing" refers to the ironing of different parts of clothing, such as pushing, returning, pressing, pressing and starting water, so that clothes are more suitable for body shape, neat and beautiful.

2, "nine potential": refers to the coerced force, fat potential, nest potential, concave potential, warping potential, residual potential, round potential, bending potential, potential.

For example, the head of the sleeve cage must be round and round, the sleeves should be bent, and the back should have the potential to make the hands easy to expand and stretch. The mouth must have the potential of the nest, not the outward warping, the front chest should have the fat potential, and the shoulders should have residual potential.

3, sixteen word standard: "Ping, clothing, Shun, straight, round, Deng, Ting, full, thin, loose, uniform, soft, live, light, nest,".

"Ping" means that the surface, lining and lining of the garment are flat, not sloping, and the back of the door can not be stirred up without any ups and downs.

"Clothing" means that the garment should not only be attached to the size of the human body, but the concave convex curve of each part is consistent with the concave convex line of the human body.

"Shun" refers to the garment sewing machine, the lines of each part are consistent with the shape of the human body.

"Straight" means that all kinds of straight lines of garments should be straight without bending.

"Circle" refers to the connection lines of each part of the garment, which form a smooth arc.

"Deng" means that the horizontal lines (such as the chest line and waist line) of each part are parallel to the ground after the garments are worn on the body.

"Quite" means all parts of a garment must be crisp.

"Full" means the front chest of a garment should be plump.

"Thin" means that the parts of the garment, such as the mouth and the head, should be made thin and can give people a sense of elegance and comfort.

"Loose" means that the garment is not tight, not rigid, and gives people a sense of liveliness.

"Uniform" refers to uniform, uniform and uniform garments.

"Soft" means that the lining of a garment is hard and soft.

"Living" means that the lines and curves of various aspects of garment formation are flexible, flexible and not dull.

"Light" refers to the ease of wearing garments.

"Nest" refers to all parts of clothing, such as stop, leader, bag cover, back slit, must have nest potential.

"Yi" refers to the width and width of the garment. When it is stretched out, it does not tighten.

The above sixteen words are interrelated, and unified on a garment can show the characteristics of the red gang characteristic craft.

3, process flow

Tailor made handicraft

First, choose the fabric, then draw, cut, sew and tie the shell.

First remove the shell, ask the customer to try it on, turn it into a shell, and try it again.

Some samples need to be tested 3-4 times, try one time, modify once, try and change them until satisfactory.

Finally enter the ironing, buttonhole and button.

The suit is made from the nail marks on the clothes piece, and the garments are processed into garments, and the whole process is more than 130.

Sewing in these processes, except for sewing machines in straight seam, the rest needs to be sewn by hand.

The red gang tailor is also good at using defective stitching techniques such as slanting shoulders, hunchback, short arms, thin body and so on. All kinds of sewing methods can be used to cover up defects.

It is another technical success for the red gang tailor to use the needle well when sewing.

We put the needle into the middle part of the middle finger, using the wrist and fingers, and the shoulders do not move.

After a long period of exercise, pull the line straight and even.

The lion's hand-made personalized clothing is not wrinkled despite repeated washing.

Epilogue

The lion's hand-made personalized costume was born in the birthplace of China's "red gang tailor" - Fenghua, Ningbo, a world-famous cultural city.

Here, Chinese and foreign businessmen join together, exchange each other's needs, and Chinese and Western cultures collide and exchange with each other.

The lion lions are all hand-made and custom made garments. They have inherited more than 170 years' history of China's "Hong Bang tailor" handicraft, combined with British history of over 300 years of handmade clothing, based on high quality men's wear, with excellent design, high-quality raw materials, and exquisite tailoring and sewing technology, positioning in the world's top men's wear market.

Nobility, style, self-confidence and fashion are the styles of hand-made personalized costumes.