Men'S Shoes Change History: Men'S Wear T Stage - Full Of Wind
Men's shoes became the leading role on the T platform of men's wear in autumn and winter in 2011. The designer installed a short heel of 2~3 centimeters and 5 centimeters of high heels for the latest man's image.
In fact, men have always been incredibly persistent about shoes, picking out the length of boots and demanding the style of laces.
And the men who connect them in tandem are Louis Xiv, whose feet are 12 centimeters high heels. He is the Duke of Windsor who brings "Oxford shoes" into the upper class society, and is also the man wearing "sweat and sweat boots" in this era.
The European monarch's foot flow
If you don't wear high heels up to 12 centimeters, the first hero in the French mind, "Louis Xiv", is just a "1.60 disabled" with a height of 1.60 meters.
In addition to high-heeled shoes, men's shoes also reached their peak in seventeenth Century.
Louis Xiv's distress
If King Louis Xiv of France wears only socks, he is only 5 feet and 3 inches tall. If converted to the present data, it is about 160 centimeters. Such height in a man's body is "two disabled" from any angle.
However, Louis Xiv is one of the few heroes in French history. His rule lasted for 72 years and surpassed any king in Europe. He led the French army to win the war with all the countries in Europe.
In addition, he built a garden called Palace of Versailles for himself.
There is an irrefutable truth in his body - "the essence of concentration".
Although Louis Xiv can achieve so many brilliant achievements, he is still not satisfied. He wants to be the world's attention as a brilliant, invincible, outstanding and tall and powerful monarch image.
So, in order to solve his height problem, he ordered someone to make a tall wig.
On special occasions, he put on those 5 inch high-heeled shoes made of cork, decorated with a pocket portrait of the French army winning the war.
Sometimes the leather on his heels was dyed red, which later symbolized members of the aristocracy.
High heels come from men.
However, Louis Xiv was not the pioneer of men wearing high heels. The first high-heeled shoes in France were taken from Italy by Caesar Lin de Medici (1519~1589) and brought to France with the Duke of Orlean (later Henry II of France).
From 17 to eighteenth Century, Italy's fashion designers wore ribbons and embroidery on men's high-heeled shoes, leading the dominant style of men's clothing in Europe as a whole.
In 1500, European aristocratic men began wearing high heels in order to put their heels on their pedals while riding horses.
Although this is more or less related to the heels of history, it has become popular for men in court, and the "satisfactory heel" period has emerged, which symbolizes rich or expensive shoes or expensive shoes.
As for why high heels can become fashionable in the European continent, there is a more funny saying.
It is said that in the middle ages of Europe, because of the denser population, there are more and more horse dung on the streets of the city. So the high-heeled shoes reflect the practical value. Although the feet are far away from the ground, they seem to be much cleaner.
And rainy days are also very convenient and practical.
Safeguard the hegemony of shoes
From the Middle Ages in Europe, more and more men began to put their dressing pleasure on their shoes, which would be enough to form a history of men's foot wind.
The heroes in history were all very "stuffy".
Emperor Charleyman of Rome liked to wear an unbelievable red at ordinary times.
leather shoes
It is studded with gold and emerald.
Before preparing for the war, he will have a pair of purple sandals called "Campagus", which are similar to the sandals worn by ancient Athens people. They are still full of pearls and precious stones.
Unlike the red leather shoes that are worn everyday, the sandals will be high and knees worn in such operations, and animal skins will be decorated on the legs, including animal teeth and animal claws.
Charleyman is obviously very enchanted with his taste in shoes. In order to put an end to imitators, he promulgated many laws on shoes.
In addition to the two pairs mentioned above, the banned shoes include a purple red leather sandal called "Tzanga", with gold thread embroidered on it, and a golden eagle on the back of the foot.
According to the laws of Rome at that time, anyone who dared to wear the same special shoes would be exiled.
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Since then, rulers in Rome have begun to pick on the color and decoration of their own shoes and their subjects.
The emperor had announced that no one was allowed to wear red shoes except himself and his successor.
Emperor Heri Olga Ba Ruth forbade any woman to decorate shoes with gold and jewellery.
Later, Nero, who is known for his cruelty, likes to wear a pair of pure silver shoes. If he thinks someone's shoes are better than him, he will even kick people to death, so as to ensure the authority of his shoes.
Seventeenth Century men's shoes decoration history
Seventeenth Century is the most luxuriant age of men's shoes. At that time, the vamp was very long, and the decorative ribbons on both sides were tied together on the tongue. Every man had a big rose on the top of his shoes, but by the middle of the century, the rose was tied up by the ribbon tied by the gorgeous ribbon.
In 1680s, the famous Playboys put metal wire on each side of their feet. In the last 10 years of the century, the buckles replaced the bow and began to grow larger and larger, eventually developing into the style of the buckles on men's shoes.
Customize a pair of "Tramezza" top-level.
Men's Shoes
"Tramezza" comes from Italian, meaning an ancient shoe making technology, "stitching skills."
This ancient craft stems from the efforts of the old shoemaker 85 years ago.
At that time, there were not many modern tools to help leather shoes, so the old craftsmen invented the best way to test their skills. They directly stitched the upper into the bottom of the shoe and fixed it on the sole.
First, they are
shoes
A special waterproof leather is embedded between the outsole and the inner pad, which increases the softness and elasticity of the shoes, and makes it easier to sweat and waterproofing. Secondly, the special inner pad can reduce the fatigue feeling of the feet for long time wearing shoes. Finally, there are visible double hand stitches, so that three layers of 12 mm thick soles can be tightly stitched together, all of which require highly skilled and experienced shoemaking craftsmen.
Therefore, these selected leather from French calfskin or other rare animal leather have been specially processed by printing, napping, suede or lacquer. It needs more than 260 sophisticated and precise hand orders to complete the shoes, which is comfortable, durable and durable.
Put in, feet like "swim in the water", free.
British gentleman complex
Now, I may never find a gentleman who really wears Oxford shoes, but this does not hinder the historical complex of this kind of shoes.
In many famous images, Oxford shoes are conveying the good time that gentlemen spirit has long gone.
Oxford shoes enter the upper class society
British etiquette expert John Morgan sighed in the etiquette column of the times: "in addition to Oxford shoes and three suits, the good time of British gentlemen can no longer be found."
In fact, "Oxford shoes" is black and white British leather shoes, which is not a symbol of gentleman spirit at first.
It was originally designed to facilitate trudge in wet muddy swamps. The front part of shoes was carved with small holes to drain water, which is the favorite of a country gentleman.
Later, it was found that light holes were not available, light colored shoes were also easily stained, dark shoes were made dark, and upper made of light colors, black and white were the most traditional stitching.
It was the Duke of Windsor who left the famous history book in a fancy to save this shoe from the mire of the country and step into another kind of more advanced mire. He always liked to play golf in black and white leather shoes, and the upper class of British elite sports loved it very much.
Jefferson, the famous American president, is adding fuel to the flames. Wearing a pair of black and white shoes at a fashionable dinner party has brought this humble shoe into the upper class of the world.
In 1928, the catalogue of Sears Roebuck & Co, the largest department store in the United States, was recorded as follows: "in this season, the sale of double colored shoes is unprecedented and has become a fashionable symbol."
There is another saying that this shoe is called "Oxford shoes", but it has not been able to find the origin of this name. University of Oxford has indeed been known for its harsh academic dress.
To see a mentor, take a final exam, even eat in the dining hall, have to wear a black robe called "SUB FUSC", lined with white shirt and white bow tie, not black and white shoes, but all black leather boots.
Perhaps this name carries the spirit of the same origin: a gentleman with noble manners, respect for tradition and ethics, and believes that style can be taught.
Reviewing British good times
The black and white British leather shoes must have been imprinted in these people's lives.
For example, Evelyn Wo in the Brideshead Revisited, the aristocratic son of the Republic of Spain, and the famous English worshiper, declared, "God, I really love the British, if I am not love them more than the French, God will punish me" Voltaire.
There was an elderly man who was clearly mentioned wearing these shoes. He was named Siya Berlin.
In an interview in his later years, Berlin wore a chocolate soft hat and wore a dark gray three piece suit for him, and a pair of black and white shoes.
In these famous images, Oxford shoes are conveying the good time that gentlemen spirit has long gone.
The fashion of Duke of Windsor
Duke of Windsor is a mysterious and charming name. This Duke of PrinceofWales, who served as king Welles (EdwardVIII) for a short time, is a Duke of Windsor EdwardVIII. In addition to his "love for the beautiful people", he presented another gift to the world in the early twentieth Century.
Duke of Windsor's love for clothes can be traced back to his youth.
He once wrote a book about AFamilyAlbumen, which is related to changes in clothing and manners.
This book is about his clothes as Prince Welles. In his book, he wrote a letter to Queen Victoria (QueenVictoria) to point out the importance of clothing:
"...
At least costumes allow people to see the existence of the prince.
I wonder if I have seen my existence in the eyes of some media columns from childhood to adulthood. I may just be a hanger for clothes, not a royal heir. "
Duke of Windsor thought that growing up in such a background did not necessarily make him a fashion admirer, but it made him realize that clothes represent personal image. "As Prince Welles, I should dress appropriately and behave appropriately on every occasion," he said.
Until the death of 1972, Duke of Windsor was listed as the leader of the annual male fashion "international social" by the American fashion foundation.
During the crown prince, Duke of Windsor often wore a lattice cloth that looked like a thousand birds, with gray black and gray mixed with red and blue lines, so that the cloth known as GlenCheck had the nickname of Welles's CheckofWalesPrince.
He particularly likes bold color matching, often with lattice, stripes and punctuation three kinds of interactive collocation, and become its "soft wear" (dresssoft) wind.
A circular flat hat with a hat and an adjustable hat on the top of the hat can be worn by comics. It will also appear in the history of men's clothing, as well as the Duke of Windsor.
It is said that the French fashion giant Pierre Cardin (PierreCardin) once told Kennedy (J.F.Kennedy) President: "Mr. President, in this century, there is only one real big man in the field of male fashion, that is Duke of Windsor.
I can make you the second. "
An outlandish pointed shoe.
Looking at the history of men's shoes, they experienced a period of deviation.
In the early fourteenth Century, men were keen on wearing a pointed leather shoe called "Populaine".
This is not the ordinary pointed tip in the present sense. The tip of this shoe is made of leather or velvet, and the tip is getting longer and longer. As a result, it has to fill the tip of the foot with straw, wool or moss, and use whale bone to form, and use a fine chain to tie the tip of the shoe on the lap of the knee so that the shoes can be secured.
Unfortunately, this trend has not been discounted because of this violation of human physiology. In those days, the longer the shoe tips, the higher the status in the society.
At that time, a pair of shoes had such a decree: "the length of the shoes worn by the aristocrats is 24 inches (1 inches equals to 2.5cm), the gentry class is 20 inches, and the civilian is 6 inches."
Some of the upper class men who wear these shoes are also wearing silver small bells on their toes (also known as "stupid bells").
These shoes are worn on their feet, and they can not even walk, so that they can reduce their weight like dancing, so that they can avoid wrestling.
At that time, the commentary said, "this shoe has a long pointed tip, longer than a finger, and a gold chain tied to its knees looks like a devil's paw."
Eventually, the shoe was banned by the Pope because it looked "very lust".
It's not easy to buy a pair of new shoes.
Hundreds of years ago, buying shoes was not like today's shopping in stores. In less developed times, buying a pair of new leather shoes often requires personal handy shops.
In this small and crowded workshop, the shoemaker sits around an apron and sits on a bench or stool, surrounded by tools: Moon shaped knives, shoe drills and forceps for removing nails and old soles, and all kinds of wooden shoe last.
When customers try shoes, they need to stand on a piece of paper. The shoemaker draws a line around the pencil and makes shoes according to this pattern.
It takes one month to make a pair of leather boots manually, and these shoes are all called "straight boots".
Because of the whole leather system, the newly acquired shoes are very tight, which requires loose shoes.
But this is not a good job. After that, very rich people can afford servants to wear new shoes for them.
Usually wear for half a year until the cortex is soft.
Most people have to endure such discomfort as "foaming on the feet, swelling of the thumb, or even swelling of the heel and ankle."
Love alone
There is a proverb in England: "I wish I saw my beloved tonight, and I put my shoes into a T word."
All along, shoes and emotions are closely related.
The ancient Greeks of Platonic Love were probably sentimental, and thousands of years ago, they would carve their names on the soles of sandals. Along with them walking on the road, the names of lovers will be carved on the soil. Platon,
In fact, this romantic expression of shoes is not exclusive to the ancient Greeks.
In Europe, in fifteenth Century, if a man wishes to marry a woman, she gives her a shoe shaped like a pointed beak, which says, "you must not marry."
Why did he write on his shoes? Gerd, a German poet, though he had doubts, he took another form.
In his letter to his lover Christine Volpius, he wrote, "please give me the last pair of dancing shoes that you are wearing, as you said in your letter, so that I can put something on my heart."
In Abraham Posey's wedding night, the father gave his daughter's shoes to the bridegroom, symbolizing the alternation of power.
Morocco people believe that you can also catch a glimpse of your future husband or wife from shoes.
They firmly believe that if a man sees a slipper on the road, he will soon marry his wife.
An ancient English custom believed that if young girls laid their shoes and sang a song by the bedside, they would find their destined husband in midsummer night.
The lyrics are like this: "put your toe on the street, put your stockings on your feet, put your stockings on your head, and you will dream of the man you want to marry."
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