Structure Formation And Technical Analysis Of Collar And Barge In Suits

On the floor plan

A good Western-style collar collar must first rely on a combined open collar framework to create a combination of collar and barge structures in the coordination with the overall structure.

To say "open collar", it should be the first Chinese open collar.

Long term practice has proved that it is beyond the scope of other leaders.

It is characterized by the traditional vertical and vertical opening logic, and in the form of equal division, the 1 / 5 plus O.5-lcm of the general collar is used for the pverse collar of the suit, and the collar L / 5 minus O.5-lcm is the practical opening collar method. It can not only fit the neck and shoulders of the human body, but also suit the change of the overall style of the suit, and it also adapts to the change of the style of the suit, and only needs to grasp the position of the open collar at the top 1 / 2 of the front row, and the scope of its debugging is suitable for moving l-2cm to the front door.

The slope line of collar collar is L / 3 or L / 2, and it is inclined to move forward and middle.

The head line can be determined according to the demand of the style. The width of the l-2cm button is located near the waist and waist, and the width of the small head is smaller than the collar point. The width is about 8-10cm, and the width of the collar is about 5cm. It should match the width of 4.6cm before the collar, forming no more than 90.

The shape of the stroke is also divided from here, on the collar, under the refutation, the arc of the head, and the wind of the line of Yan Ni, but as long as there is an arc in the straight line and a straight flavor in the arc.

The shape of the collar on the stroke is to get a long l / 2, which is the center of the back collar, and the outer arc line is opposite to the arc of the barge. It is matched by the concave arc and the bumper convex arc. The collar line is based on the width of the collar, and the contour of the collar is high. It can be square and round, and form the collar line at the same time. At this time, the pressing space should be grasped at l-2cm, and it can be coordinated with the broken line.

In the modeling of collar barge structure, the neckline gradient line and the barge head line should be selected, so that the right open collar platform should be selected to make better use of its function.

The head line is not only in the structure, but also in the structure.

The slope line forms the shape of the barbell collar, and its main function is to form the collar line through its own extension line, resulting in reacting force, so that the design of the plane collar refute is three-dimensional. Because of its strength turning, the collar and barge stand up harmoniously. This also requires a suitable open collar plane to enable the collar to play and control, so as to ensure that the collar is formed naturally and naturally, and it is in harmony with the neck of the human body.

The rule of polygon positioning is:

The larger the distance from the shoulder point, the larger the gradient of the chain reaction to the collar line, the greater the rebarbaration force of the collar and the outer line (see Figure 3).

Therefore, the normal body shape and the neutral force should be chosen. That is the extension line of the folding line of the collar (rear) folding line.

It should be maintained at around 3cm.

In addition, the common faults in the collar and barge of the suit, such as the unease after the collar, too much slack, and even gushing, the empty head and unevenness are all related to the positioning of the collar bar, or when the collar is too heavy, it causes the force to diffuse everywhere, causing the collar to be unsuitable.

The solution can be adjusted appropriately, and the weight of the rear collar and the outside line will be weakened.

Or the design of the bottom collar is used to make the refutation stable. However, such treatment will not only affect the shape of the collar barge, but also cause the abnormal mechanical rigidity phenomenon and lose the natural feeling of the suit collar and barge. Therefore, it is not suitable for the high-grade suit. Only by choosing the design of the refutation force that is appropriate and using the technology to pull out, the fabric can be shaped again, so that the quality of the collar and barge can be promoted into the room and become the snow of people's minds.

This shows that although Western-style clothes are western traditional costumes, they are

The style of the structure has been finalized, but the contemporary suit has been internationalized, and with the process of the times, the influence of culture around the world, especially the influence of the Oriental clothing culture, is changed. This is probably the integration of the eastern and Western clothing culture. It is also the inevitable road to the individualization, intelligence and modernization of our Western-style suit products.