A Pure Skew

with

Design master

(Madeleine Vionnet) the 130 set of biographical works, entitled "Madeleine Vionnet, Puriste de la Mode", are being carried out at the Museum of decorative arts in Lyon, France.

The exhibition lasted for half a year, allowing countless fashion lovers to have enough time to appreciate the pioneering nature of vio between 1912 and 1939.

Elegance.

This group

Enthusiasts include John Galiano, the creative director of Christian Dior and the owner of Chanel.

Karl Lage Fei.

At the beginning of gainano, he added auras to himself with exquisite oblique cutting techniques, so he had more reason to pay tribute to the founder of the oblique cutting technique and to the "skew master" vio. He even urged all his employees to "watch and learn".

Some cold Carle Lagrange is also prepared to acknowledge the importance of Vionnet's design in the history of women's clothing, even though

The community has long embraced cocoa of the same age.

It is the most important "emancipator of the female body".

From a Vio

You can understand her in the evening dress of 1936.

Oblique cut, back, white crepe, classical Greek style streamlined, elegant and comfortable, unfettered, free, from which you can see her self-confidence.

In 1960, she said to herself, "what I design is not a trend, but I want to point to it.

The last forever. "

At that time, she had closed her design salon for 21 years, but no one had any objection to it.

Everything diverges due to oblique cutting.

In 1876, vio was born in Obel Willy Jerzy, France. Her family was poor. She went to the age of 12.

The tailor shop as a helper, married at 18 years old, soon divorced, and a child brought by unhappy marriage died.

She came to London alone to learn tailoring skills at Kate Bailey's clothing store on Bond Street.

In 1900, she returned to Paris. After working for several well-known clothing companies, she had very mature garment making skills and the idea of abolishing the women's corset.

In 1912, vio opened its own fashion store, and finally began to express and promote it with personalized custom clothes.

The idea abandons the traditional structure of high collar and corset, which makes use of the hard bone lining, makes the external contour of the garment more freely and "expresses the human body in a natural way".

Vio's "expression of human body" is first based on her attention to the human body, but not interested in sketching sketches. When designing, she is directly testing on the human body -- winding, pleating, cloth cutting and tailoring.

Her model is made of wood and canvas, which is reduced by about one meter in proportion to the human body. It has the necessary joints of the human body, which can naturally show the amplitude and posture of human movement.

In 1920, vienet's unique tailoring method was finally mature, that is, bias-cut, which lays the foundation of her everlasting reputation, skillfully using the elastic force of fabric twill and oblique crossover. Some people call this dress "handkerchief Clothes".

The most difficult part of oblique cutting is the treatment of edges. Vio often uses rhomboid and triangular joints to make skirts and hem, as well as a variety of processing methods such as drawnwork, sewing, embroidery, and the long seam sewn by the welt.

When these skew dress appeared in Vienna's clothing conference in 1922, the colleagues were all shocked and skillfully stitched, and her clothes did not have to open and buckle on the side and back as usual. Instead of using any buttons, pins or other ties, they simply put on the tension of the twill.

The women in this dress are natural and relaxed.

In this regard, created the wartime "New Look" fashion master Christie Dio willingly expressed: "Madeleine Vionnet invented the oblique cutting method, for this reason, I want to call her the first in the fashion industry."

More sexy than Chanel

On the basis of the oblique cutting method, Viorna created the famous dresses of the time, the monk collar and the diagonal petal skirt.

This unique skill is difficult to reproduce, and it has been a long time for peers to do nothing. Its uniqueness is not so much a style as creating a brand new dress structure.

Therefore, vio is also known as the "clothing architect".

"I am more of a sculptor than a painter," she herself said. "I am more sensitive to shapes than colors."

Comparing with the cocoa and Chanel, which is rising with her at the same time, she takes the characteristics of "new women" from men's clothing, which is neutral and routine. The designs of vio's interior still have the legacy of upper class social life style, such as the 1926 low waist butterfly dress and the round metal blouse jacket in 1927, which are luxurious and luxurious and more sexy.

In the double exhibition of the Lyons decorative art museum, vio's design style and craftsmanship have been fully demonstrated. People have sighed for the mannequin she used, slides and touch screens have been able to visually interpret her oblique cutting method to the audience, with books, 750 designs and 75 albums related to it.

"This is an exhibition of designer's intelligence and enlightening significance," said curator Pamela Goblin (Pamela Golbin). "It's not just about a strong woman who is full of fantasies about clothes."

She hoped that today's designers, especially young designers who already own their own fashion brands, can learn from this exhibition the purity of vio's design career. "This precious purity is not only reflected in her persistence in skills, but also in her attitude towards things."

Vio was 63 years old when he closed himself.

She lived in her old age, though she lived until she was 98 years old, and died in 1975.

Madeleine Vionnet, which was founded in 1922, has gradually changed its hands since it changed hands. However, the skew cutting method has been widely promoted by younger designers.

Recently, Gianni Marzotto, the chairman of the Valentino brand in 6 years, and Matteo Castiglioni, executive director of Marni brand (Gianni Castiglioni), bought Madeleine Vionnet, and each of the two people held half of Italy's shares.

Rudolf parry Aaron plus (Rodolfo Paglialunga) has been identified as an assistant to Miuccia Prada for 12 years.