Fallen Aristocrats

The success or failure of a brand depends on the recognition of the audience.

There used to be some

If these brands were once in the eyes of people, equivalent to the mysterious and high-end of LV and Prada, they are now in a state of unbearable decline.

The brand is still there, but the aristocratic fan has long been exhausted.

Pierre Cardin fell into the dust

Perhaps Pierre Cardin has not changed, but the times have changed.

It's like taking a cell phone 20 years ago is a great thing, but now there is no air.

"Pierre Cardin used to be a high-end brand. Now it should be.

Pierre Cardin, a high-end brand, was famous for more than ten years ago.

After the reform and opening up in 1978, Pierre Cardin was the first to enter China.

At that time, Pierre Cardin represented high quality, luxury, identity, fashion and internationalization.

Now, these symbols are fading away from Pierre Cardin.

Especially when more European luxury brands poured into China, Pierre Cardin began to fade away from the luxury crowd.

Is Pierre Cardin down? Or does it not care about the top end in China?

"Luxury" Pierre Cardin

More than 20 years ago, China's fashion industry belonged to Pierre Cardin.

In 1978, Mr. Pierre Cardin formed a tour group to enter China for the first time.

In a widely circulated photograph, he wore a woollen coat and walked on the streets of Beijing, surrounded by Chinese people who cast curious eyes on him.

At that time, most Chinese people wore green army casual clothes or blue tunic, but they did not know what fashion was.

Mr. Pierre Cardin saw business opportunities in such a crowd.

He once said, "a country with a population of more than 1 billion, if you give 10 buttons to everyone's clothes, about 10000000000, what a big market!"

At the end of 1989, he took Pierre Cardin's costume into Beijing with the double courage of strategists and adventurers.

Mr. Wang, the boss of Shengda clothing, has become the first agent of the brand in China.

"In the early days of reform and opening up, people began to have money, but they did not know how to spend it, nor did they see anything good.

Pierre Cardin's clothing was very simple at that time, with only suits, trousers, shirts and ties.

Wang manager recalled.

For Pierre Cardin's popularity, Wang believes that this is closely related to the management of the Pierre Cardin production line both from Italy and the clothing version of the original version of Italy.

It is this "authentic" Italy garment that has opened the corner of the Chinese market.

At that time, the western-style clothes made in the mainland cost 30 yuan to 50 yuan, and Pierre Cardin's suit cost 700 yuan to 800 yuan.

For those Chinese at that time, Pierre Cardin was an absolute luxury.

At that time, the fashion industry in Beijing also lost peace because of Pierre Cardin.

Beijing people must see Pierre Cardin in shopping malls; Zhao Benshan's sketches also regard Pierre Cardin as a creative element, making jokes as "card crotch" and bloggers smile.

At this point, Pierre Cardin himself realized his "China dream".

In this process, he had his own wisdom and the opportunity of that era.

In the late 80s and early 90s, Pierre Cardin began to open stores in different cities in China.

First, Guangzhou, followed by Shenyang, Harbin, Shanghai, Chengdu and so on.

China Zopil Cardin

Strictly speaking, Pierre Cardin is not a luxury.

The luxury materials are exquisite and can not be flawed, but Pierre Cardin's materials and workmanship are not as good as those of luxuries. Secondly, luxury goods are rare and expensive, and handmade, while Pierre Cardin's concept is industrialization and machine production. Kong Shuhong, deputy director of University of International Business and Economics Xiang Qi luxury Research Center, analyzed.

"Pierre Cardin himself is not positioned in luxury.

It is the first European enterprise to make fashion design industrialized and popular.

Pierre Cardin, director of Jiangsu century Yi Hao Clothing Co., Ltd., Huang, manager of the "down to rule of law" weekend, told reporters about "rule of law weekend".

Perhaps, Mr. Pierre Cardin himself did not intend to enter the high-end market and sell rare products.

In 1959, he was unique in that he obtained a registered trademark from the government, which was produced in large quantities by factories and then sold by department stores.

Pierre Cardin, on the other hand, sells the trademark right of use according to the product category.

According to the reporter's understanding, each agent only receives the right to use the trademark of a product category, and has signed an agreement with Mr. Pierre Cardin himself.

This agent mode will be refined to men's clothing, there will be an agent, men's casual wear will have an agent, even to tie, socks will have different agents.

"We are only responsible for the design, production and sale of men's clothing products."

The director of Tianjin JINDA Clothing Co., Ltd. told the "rule of law weekend" reporter.

These agents are not only for sale, but some are still being designed.

And after the localization of design, how much of Pierre Cardin's international brand is actually contested is unavoidable.

Perhaps Pierre Cardin has not changed, but the times have changed.

It's like taking a cell phone 20 years ago is a great thing, but now there is no way to speak, Huang manager so analogy.

Even so, Pierre Cardin, the leader of the clothing industry in the whole 90s of the last century, slowly faded out of the line of sight.

Even in 2009, the news that "Wenzhou businessmen bought Pierre Cardin's trademark rights" was in hot water.

People seem to think that Pierre Cardin has been going downhill all the way and finally bought by domestic private enterprises.

In fact, the agents in the interview told reporters that Wenzhou merchants bought only the right to use the trademarks of leather goods. Pierre Cardin still has a representative office in China, which is responsible for brand promotion and organization.

In recent years, Pierre Cardin has been trying to revive in China.

They strengthen brand supervision to unify the brand image; try young design in the clothing series to cultivate young customers.

However, at this time, the streets of Beijing and Shanghai have been like the streets of New York and Paris, and the flagship stores of international luxury brands are everywhere.

It is not easy for Pierre Cardin to find glory.

Counterfeit Pierre Cardin

Pierre Cardin has also been suffering from counterfeit intrusion these years.

Agents also spend a lot of energy in fighting fake products, but the effect is not ideal.

Jiangsu century Yi Hao sued Taobao last year, saying they sell unauthorized Pierre Cardin down clothing.

In the 21st century, according to Howard's relevant person in charge, Ms. white reluctantly told reporters that Taobao's related products had been put off the shelves, but who could sell them and where the source of goods came from was still unable to investigate deeply.

"In addition to the unauthorized sale of the Internet, physical stores selling fake products and trademark confusion are all problems that we will encounter."

Ms. Bai said.

The reporter inquired into a website of "French Pierre Cardin leather goods", said he was acting Pierre Cardin leather goods, and welcomed joining.

After the call was connected, Mr. Liu of the other side claimed to be Pierre Cardin Sichuan dealer.

He said that his company's products are made in Chongqing, the real Pierre Cardin, and the Wenzhou businessmen bought Pierre Cardan leather goods are two factories, they do Pierre Cardin currently in Chongqing shopping malls are all sold, there will be no infringement problem.

"There are so many enterprises in this way. As agents, they can only complain to the industry and commerce departments and wait for local administrative enforcement."

Tianjin JINDA responsible person said.

Pierre Cardin was the first to enter China, and the brand also made money, so he was harmed most in terms of intellectual property rights. The former director of Tianjin JINDA said that this inevitably led to a decline in the brand value of Pierre Cardin.

In the decades of ups and downs in the Chinese market, Pierre Cardin has gone through the glory and taste of decline. What will he do in the end?

Big brother's twin brother and sister

The temptation of luxury lies in avoiding you, but it is not easy.

Only a few people can afford to spend, most of them can only appreciate it.

She Jianwei, more than 40, understands the power of luxury temptation.

He has a small factory in Dongguan that specializes in luxury goods (imitation goods, compared with authentic products, slightly different in quality and workmanship, but almost identical in appearance, material and quality). These high imitation products not only inherit the classic design of luxury goods, but also are very close to the people.

Brand awareness returns to {page_break}

In the 80s of last century, the trend of popularity and hazy brand awareness returned, smart She Jianwei found business opportunities and began to explore new ways.

At that time, people were accustomed to the same color, the same style of clothing, the so-called social recognition of the brand, but people's appreciation of a unique style, a bright pattern.

However, the target brand users who have inherited the brand name, but the price is moderate, are quite extensive: from the non income students, the low income groups, the high income white-collar workers, even to the hosts and stars.

His first batch of copycat goods imitated Pierre Cardin's sneak beach in the market, which deeply accords with some people's recognition of the brand.

The new era of brand consumption is coming. "Mao Zedong's children are dressed up in fashion."

"At that time, I just started to start business, from clothing to shoes and hat accessories, there are some famous brand imitation products, mainly old people, camels, crocodiles, Rolex and so on."

She Jianwei told reporters on "rule of law weekend" that he knew that the big names abroad appeared on a small number of Chinese people, even if they were copied, to some extent, they represented the first group of people who "get rich first".

"Back to the early 80s of the last century, you really realized how the brand was pushed to the cusp, which is a self awakening of people."

Zhang Hanli, who was born in the late 60s of last century, told reporters on the weekend of rule of law. "What are we wearing for movie stars? We can make up for what we lost before overnight, no matter how much money we have."

"In fact, the brand appeared in that era was almost overspread in China, and the popularity of Shanzhai goods in the low-end consumer groups was irresistible, and the" regular army "was very popular.

She Jianwei said.

Famous brand Shanzhai

She Jianwei's cousin She Jianxin walked differently from her Jianwei, and his fortunes were quite different.

In the 80s of last century, he went to sea together with She Jianwei, but he chose to act as a regular agent in the mainland of the French crocodile LACOSTE.

However, just as he tried to target the high-end consumer groups and start his own business, the Shanzhai version of crocodiles also surged outside the genuine crocodiles.

But these "crocodiles" either changed the direction of the French crocodile head or remodeled the color of the French crocodile logo.

In short, the method of "edge ball" is widespread.

The sale of crocodile T-shirts is always heard in the shops on the street, and the above scenario is the last thing She Jianxin wants to see.

"The authentic imported goods sold in China cost more than 1000 yuan.

It's impossible to buy authentic French crocodiles, hundreds of yuan or even more than one hundred yuan.

She Jianxin told reporters.

In 2004, he finally gave up the French crocodile agent after a series of losses. "There are too many brands related to the French crocodile, Singapore crocodile and Hongkong crocodile, but consumers are hard to distinguish between them.

Therefore, the real French crocodile encountered the "encirclement and suppression" of Shanzhai goods, and the living space became increasingly narrow and it was difficult to make a comeback.

In fact, many top brands have encountered the same situation as French crocodiles at home.

Take Valentino as an example, there are more than 200 cottage versions of Valentino in China, some have added "hats" to Valentino (such as "apple Valentino"), some have added "cushions" to Valentino (Ruvalentino Garavani), others have been copying the "V" trademark logo of Valentino.

The reporter called the Hongkong Valentino Asia Pacific office to ask how to act as Valentino agent and consulted the related problem of counterfeiting.

"The authorization of agents is very complicated. We should first demonstrate a series of indicators such as market target consumer groups and market potential, and then send them to the company's mailbox in tabular form," he said.

We have received more than one tort case and are too lazy to fake it, because it can not fight at all, so now the agent is not good at doing it, and we are very cautious in licensing. "

An indisputable fact is that the "encirclement and suppression" of the top brands in China has already hindered its promotion process in China.

According to She Jianxin observation, the more top brands are more likely to be "near", the brands that were "near" in the 80s and 90s of last century are almost gone.

Follow the trend

30 years later, She Jianxin has pformed into the development and marketing of a domestic brand clothing bag.

Recalling his failure in the early stage of his career, his sentiment is quite thoughtful: on the one hand, the economic foundation of that era is weak and the level of consumption is not high; on the other hand, people's brand consciousness in that era is awakened in advance.

This brings about a contradiction, that is, the conflict between material and spirit, which is the result of this conflict.

Now, She Jianwei has changed slightly to the strategy at the beginning of his business, and began to imitate the new luxury goods, the fashionable and gorgeous style is eye-catching, the price is slightly higher but not as high as the genuine product.

"Let's go in.

Because the company has a certain amount of money, and the domestic new rich class has also grown up, so now do high imitation Hermes, Chlo e, Miumiu and so on.

Crocodiles, old men and so on are no longer in his imitation vision.

Thirty years Hedong, thirty years Hexi, even high imitation manufacturers began to neglect them.

In the view of Liu Fenghua, vice president of the China Council for the promotion of international trade, the brand in the 80s of the last century was not seen by the post-80s and the post-90s. Now, even if they wear the genuine products of these brands, they feel that they have lost their identity.

The top brands that the new rich are now pursuing are no longer comparable to the famous brands 20 years ago.

Nowadays, there are not many differences between Shanghai and Shenzhen on the streets with New York and Paris. The flagship stores of emerging international luxury brands are everywhere. Some of the biggest brands that have once been popular are now hard to find a place in the luxury market.

One town and 200 brands

Goldlion, crocodile, old man, Cardanro, woodpecker, Cartier crocodile and other familiar brands have bridgehead agents.

There are more than 200 brand agents in the locals, with annual sales exceeding 30 billion yuan.

Rule by law Weekend reporter Ma Shujuan

Yongjia Qiaotou, the town of "China Button capital" and "town of zipper", has long been noisy and busy.

The street west of Qiaoxi, which once stood in shops, has shown a desolate place. The button City, which was subsequently opened, is also slightly cold and cheerless, which makes it hard to imagine the prosperity that it once owned.

Compared with the "cold and cheerless" market in Qiaotou town, Qiaotou, through its efforts of more than 10 years, made the international brand agency business thrive.

At present, the output value of bridgehead outside the international brand agency is far more than the output value of the local traditional industries in Qiaotou town.

The reputation of "China Button capital" has gradually become the "reputation of the international brand agency".

Brand opportunities

In this regard, Zhou Jianyun, the locals, comes to the front.

Before acting as an international brand, Zhou Jianyun worked in small commodities such as buttons, zippers, garment accessories, and then ran a ski shirt factory.

But the fact that "Chinese sell hard labor and earn big money from foreigners" has led him to the international brand agency.

In 1998, Zhou Jianyun signed the Chinese general agent right of "cartel crocodile" leather shoes and became the first person in the industry to act as an international brand.

His actions also led to the upsurge of bridgehead's world brand.

After Zhou Jianyun, there were a number of bridgeheads joining the international brand.

Among them, Sun Xiaofei, Chen Xiaofei and Hong Jianqiao who participated in the acquisition of Pierre Cardin brand in 2009 were developed from Qiaotou town.

Their international brands are mainly concentrated in clothing, leather shoes, leather goods and other industries.

Such as Goldlion, crocodile, old man, Cardanro, woodpecker, Cartier Le crocodile and so on.

Because of brand maintenance, Qiaotou people generally choose Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and other first tier cities as entrepreneurial bases.

In particular, Guangzhou, as the most fashionable city in China, has attracted and gathered a large number of bridgehead people as the headquarters base for brand operation.

Pan Renyong, the author of "Yongjia business card" and former director of the Propaganda Department of Yongjia County, told reporters that there are only more than 7000 people in Guangzhou, Dongguan and Shenzhen who are engaged in international brand agents and related industrial chains. Most of them are bridgeheads.

According to the reporter, in Guangdong, bridgehead people founded more than 200 brand agents, with annual sales exceeding 30 billion yuan.

The output value of traditional button industry and zipper industry in Qiaotou town is about 5 billion yuan in 2010.

In the early years, the bridgehead sold the old marketing network of buttons and zippers, and became a magic weapon for helping bridgeheads to successfully operate international brands.

Chen Jinyan told reporters: "there are more than 7 people in Qiaotou town, and more than 30 thousand people who are doing business outside the country have formed a very extensive marketing network."

Zhou Jianyun has a personal understanding of the importance of marketing network: "as an international brand that has just entered China, if there is no channel, no good brand can be done.

Of the international brand's domestic two level agents, more than 50% are the bridgehead.

If the channel network is rich, it is easier to get the brand. "

It is the most reliable to do its own brand

The agency of international brands has made the bridgehead a broader international vision, and thus the rapid expansion of capital.

However, bridgehead quickly discovered that the agent's international brand was still controlled by others.

In fact, with the complete liberalization of foreign investment in China's retail industry in 2004, on the one hand, some truly influential international brands began to enter China through direct operation. On the other hand, Zegna, Coach and other first-line brands began to gradually regaining the agency power in China.

As an agent, it is unavoidable to face the risk of brand agent recovering agent.

Zhou Jianyun realized this very early.

He told reporters: "as agents, early brand investment is not enough to enhance the popularity of the brand, it will not make money, but too much investment to make the brand bigger and stronger, and afraid to be recovered by headquarters."

In fact, Zhou Jianyun's worries are not unreasonable. Ye Liming, the most agent brand, has experienced the experience of being recalled by others.

Ye Liming signed an agency contract with "Zhuo Vanni Valentino". After two years of promotion, when ye Liming carried out the scale allocation, the brand was bought by others, and ye Liming suffered heavy losses.

In 2002, Zhou Jianyun annexed Hongkong seven good group Co., Ltd., and made the international brand of Italy TUCANO woodpecker brand income pocket, becoming the sole holder of the brand in the world, and opened the first place to acquire world famous brand.

"Only when the brand is in its own right, can confidence be invested heavily in advertising, cultural construction and brand maintenance."

Zhou Jianyun said.

At present, "woodpecker" has more than 2000 counters and stores in China, with annual sales of nearly 600 million yuan.

In less than 10 years, bridgehead bought the international brand or bought the brand's interests in Greater China.

At present, the famous international brands that have been purchased by bridgehead are Italy brand Cardanro, French brand LOSACOS and HOPTAHE.

BOSSSUNWWEN (Boswell) has also bought out all rights and interests in the Greater China region and become the owner of the brand after 3 years of acting by Wu Xunan, a bridgehead.

In 2009, Sun Xiaofei and other 4 bridgeheads bought Pierre Cardin, which attracted the attention of the industry.

Bridgehead's big hand in international brand operation also amazed the industry.

Since then, bridgehead and even the entire Wenzhou people often go to Europe to explore and find potential brands so that they can be taken into the arms at the right time.

Brand management is not overnight

A local insider in Wenzhou told the "rule of law weekend" that at present, the international brands of domestic agents are mostly two or three line brands.

In particular, some three line brands have not yet become famous in China, and the profit margins are very limited.

Some county and municipal agents get the right of agency. In order to get extra profits, they cooperate with some garment manufacturers to carry out OEM production.

After one or two years, the agent will turn to other brands.

As a result, a great deal of damage has been done to some brands.

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Furthermore, after the development and scale of brand agents in Qiaotou town, some domestic brand agents also sniffed the other business opportunities.

According to the insider, some enterprises see that the domestic consumer market has a natural pursuit and admiration for international brands. They register a company abroad and register a trademark, then import it into China, and authorize it to sell and operate the domestic agents.

Recently, CCTV has revealed that "card Dan ton" is only a shell brand registered abroad. Its production and operation are all carried out in China. It is the so-called "fake foreign brand".

In the eyes of these people, it has become a "hidden rule" in clothing, leather goods and other industries.

"Having a world brand is one thing. It is one thing to run the world brand well."

Zhou Jianyun sighed with emotion.

Dozens of brands who advocate ups and downs

There are two main reasons for the emergence of brand changes in China: on the one hand, the impact of imitation on these brands; on the other hand, there are problems in the development strategies of these brands.

Rule by law Weekend reporter Xiao Sha

In 1978, Pierre Cardin, wearing a black woolen coat, a scarf on his neck and his hands in Beijing street, attracted everyone's attention.

At that time, China's eyeful was still army green. At that time, the Chinese did not know what luxuries were.

Pierre Cardin's arrival opened up a high-end clothing consumption era.

After Pil Cardin, Montagut, Playboy and other brands followed.

Together with Pierre Cardin, they were regarded as the famous brand names for their faces in the 80s and 90s of last century.

Once upon a time, these once popular and popular brands are no longer unattainable.

There are one or two brands in these famous brand echelons, no longer being mentioned or even disappeared.

Those who want to flaunt themselves also disdain to mention such brands. Instead, they take the initiative to show off a small four leaf embroidery (LV's classic design), or a low profile inverted Prada mark on the cuff, or a yellow grid design (Burberry Classic) that anyone will read.

Did the Chinese change or did they change?

There are two reasons for the decline of China's brand, such as Pierre Cardin's decline. On the one hand, the impact of imitation on these brands; on the other hand, there are problems in the development strategy of these brands.

Zhang Xiaolin, a researcher at University of International Business and Economics's Cheung Kei luxury Research Center, told reporters on "rule of law weekend".

Ding Jiayong, a senior researcher at the Chinese Brand Research Institute, believes that with luxury goods entering China, Pierre Cardin was not the brand of the top luxury goods.

Psychological changes

After 1990, the international high-end luxury brand, led by Zegna, entered the Chinese market with the help of China's high-end hotel curve.

In 1991, Zegna opened the first direct store in mainland China in the boutique Gallery of Wang Fu, becoming the first men's luxury brand to enter the mainland market.

A year later, the LV store opened at the Xpu Ha Palace Hotel.

Subsequently, Gucci, Prada and other top international brands entered China through proxy.

Since 2000, luxury goods have entered the golden nuggets in China, and they have occupied the market through large-scale expansion.

And this impact is not only on the scale of the brand, but also on the mentality of the Chinese people.

Nowadays, in the first tier cities, Pierre Cardin and Montagut are no longer a symbol of status. They even have some negative comments on these brands. Some people jokingly call Pierre Cardin "Carle" preserved eggs.

The reason for this is partly due to the fact that too many imitations have damaged the image of the brand.

Zhang Xiaolin said.

Open the official website of Pierre Cardin. Under the interface of Chinese language, there is a column of fake information, including lawyers' letters, complaints, processing certificates, red headed documents, warning letters, etc.

But in Zhang Xiaolin's view, like these brands, the top luxury goods such as LV and Gucci are more imitated, and luxury counterfeiting is a worldwide problem. In Italy, there is a street that specializes in the sale of luxury goods. However, these brands are not damaged by the existence of imitations. Therefore, the decline of brands such as Pierre Cardin is more important than finding their own reasons.

Embarrassed identity

Compared with the luxury brands that pour into China, these former big names and noble status are also very embarrassed.

The market position is not clear, so that these aristocrats have a name.

I hope my brand can be appreciated by more people, not just for a small number of people.

Pierre Cardin said in an interview.

The two important feature of luxury goods is the high price and scarcity.

Once the threshold is lowered, the brand can not be called luxury.

Mr. Pierre Cardin, for example, wants more Chinese people to come into contact with their products, giving up their luxury status.

Zhang Xiaolin said.

Zhang Xiaolin is a master of luxury management at Monaco International University. When her teacher studied, her teacher also mentioned: luxuryisdetail. (luxury comes from details).

If a brand regards itself as a luxury item, its quality must be excellent first. Secondly, its service is also first-rate. Otherwise, luxury goods can not support expensive prices.

Zhang Xiaolin, for example, for example, if you go to a jewellery luxury store, you will find that all the lights will be on a jewellery to make the jewellery appear the best color. There will not be any hand prints on the glass counter. When trying on the necklace, the waiter will wear gloves to untie the original necklace and put it in the tray instead of directly picking it up with your hands. These details will give you a luxurious and honorable feeling.

And in Pierre Cardin, Montagut and other brand stores, we can not experience a similar sense of dignity.

Connotation power

When we looked at the brand changes, we found that almost all the big brands we talked about were foreign products.

There are few luxury brands in China. Even if they are, there is no international reputation.

The lack of luxury brands in China is largely a matter of time.

Most of the international luxury brands have a history of over 100 years, and most Chinese brands began to develop in the 90s of last century.

Zhang Xiaolin said.

In Ding Jiayong's view, there are historical and cultural factors besides time.

There are many categories of luxuries, such as silk and wine, which are luxuries in China because of the cultural accumulation in these areas. But in clothing, bags, cosmetics and other fields, we have no advantage. Most of these luxuries are in Europe. The value of these luxuries is realized by the ancient palace culture in Europe.

Ding Jiayong said.

But why does our country's cultural heritage luxury brand fail to receive global attention? In Zhang Xiaolin's view, on the one hand, our awareness of brand protection is not enough. Some brands are facing the risk of being counterfeited after listing, but this problem is not only in China; on the other hand, there are marketing problems.

There is a fascinating story behind LV, Prada and other brands, and they have been adhering to the concept behind the story in the development process.

In fact, these brands sell goods on the one hand and sell ideas on the other.

To build a brand, we need to learn the luxury brand's ability to tell stories, and better illustrate history.

Zhang Xiaolin said.