Direct Cutting Of The Fastest Clothing Plate Technology (Part One)

So-called Direct blanking That is to say, do not cut the fabric directly through the pattern. Of course, very few people directly cut and cut. Before painting, they usually use the powder to cut out the cutting line. I have visited some fast cutting classes, and I understand that the teaching methods adopted are mainly direct cutting. As a matter of fact, a large number of experienced tailoring masters have emerged in China's private tailoring shops. Their direct cutting technology is commendable. Direct cutting in our folk has a very wide field, which can be said to be the main teaching method of our traditional clothing vocational education. Why does this method appear in our traditional clothing vocational education? Is it applicable to the future vocational education of clothing in China? To answer these questions, we should thoroughly analyze the merits of direct cutting and understand its humanistic foundation and teaching application.

Advantages of direct cutting

The biggest advantage of straight cutting is that it can improve the speed of cutting. It is understood that an experienced tailor can cut a pair of trousers in three or five minutes, and can finish the tailoring of a suit in less than ten minutes.

Why is the speed of direct cutting so fast? The author carries on the understanding analysis to this. One of the main reasons is that the main control points are calculated in the process of drawing, such as big chest circumference and large hip girth.

For example: Half pants mouth 7 inches (about 23cm)

The width of the crotch is 1.5 inches (about 5cm).

The rear door is 4 inches (about 13cm).

Why does the garment piece cut out by the method of "fixed size estimate" do not affect the wearing? We analyzed the key parts of the straight cut garment and found that the size of the parts fluctuated in a certain range.

1. When chest girth changes in the range of 100cm~120cm:

The front chest girth fluctuates within the range of 24cm~29cm, and the amplitude is less than 5cm.

The anterior chest width fluctuates within the range of 18cm~22cm, and the amplitude is less than 4cm.

The front and rear open collar fluctuates in the range of 8cm~10cm, and the amplitude is less than 2cm.

The size of the towel pocket fluctuates in the range of 10cm~12cm, and the amplitude is only 2cm.

2. When the hip circumference changes in the range of 105cm~125cm:

The front hip circumference fluctuated within the range of 25cm~30.5cm, and the amplitude was less than 5cm.

The rear door is fluctuating in the range of 12.5cm~15cm, and the amplitude is less than 2.5cm.

　　 Small crotch The width is fluctuating in the range of 4.2cm~5cm, and the amplitude is less than 1cm.

As can be seen from the above examples, the fluctuation range of the sizes of clothing parts is generally very small, basically within 5cm. And because of the mediating effect of relaxation, even if there is a difference between the fixed size and the standard size, if it is not very large, it can ensure that the clothes it wears can be worn. This is an important reason why there is still vitality in direct cutting.

Why do we need to strictly calculate the main control points of the front and rear chest girth and the front and rear hips? This is mainly to ensure the total size of the main control points such as chest circumference and hip circumference. For example, the buttocks H=105cm set before the cut, to ensure that the finished trousers are still the size, we need to calculate the exact size distribution for the front and rear hips by the calculation: the front hip is 0.24H=25.2cm and the rear hip is 0.26H=27.3cm. It is also distributed through H/4-1 and H/4+1, and the reason is the same.

Why do we say that the size of other parts can be estimated? This is mainly because the size of other parts will not have a fundamental effect on the size of the finished product. Still take the hips H=105 as an example: no matter how the front and back doors are chosen, the final result is only a change in the shape of trousers, and will not cause the size change of the hip H=105 of trousers. Many tailor masters have grasped this trick, and combined with their own years of practical experience, the proportion of each part of clothing is estimated, and the drawing lines of these parts are quickly drawn. Even more experienced people do not even need to estimate the process. They only need to draw these positions intuitively based on the size of the main control points.

It is not very strict in terms of the amount of relaxation in direct mapping. In order to determine the amount of relaxation, there is also a large element for determining the amount of relaxation. Most of the size ends are even numbers in order to calculate quickly. In this regard, its Drafting The rigour has also been greatly reduced.